Overview
Aconcagua, which translates as "Stone Sentinel" is 22,840 ft, making it the highest mountain in the Americas and the highest mountain outside of Asia. This spectacular mountain is surrounded by numerous peaks over 20,000 ft. and the surrounding lowlands (up to 13,000 ft.) consist of beautiful desert landscapes with a large diversity of flora and fauna.
Traditionally there are three guided routes on Aconcagua: Route Normal, Polish Variation, and the Guanacos Glacier Route. (Please note the Guanacos Route has been closed for the past 3 years in an effort to protect the large number of guanacos that breed and raise young in the area). We choose to guide the Polish Variation Route on the East side of the mountain because it sees one fifth the amount of climbers (1,000 vs. 5,000 yearly) and is a much more aesthetic approach. An ascent of Aconcagua by any of these routes requires minimal technical skills but does require excellent physical condition and good backpacking skills.
Over the last 19 years we have developed our own special way of guiding the mountain, which affords you the best chance of proper acclimatization and summit success. For example, we use 4 camps on the mountain while other companies use only 2 or 3. This 4th camp at 20,600 feet, cuts three or more hours off of the summit day (the hardest day of the climb) allowing you to move at a moderate pace and return to camp well before dark. Needless to say, the shortened summit day increases your chances of reaching the top. The high camp also allows us to traverse down the other side of the mountain, giving you new views and terrain to experience, as well as shorten the return trip to the trailhead by one day.
There may be many personal reasons to choose a particular guide service, but there are four main areas of concern that you should look at carefully: Safety Record, Guides, Logistics in country, and Pre-Trip Planning with the climber. In all four categories, Alpine Ascents ranks highest in the climbing industry. No other guide service has the safety record, quality of guides, finely honed programs, and customer service that we offer. For further information, please read Why Climb Aconcagua With Alpine Ascents?
Summit Success:Since 1999 Alpine Ascents has had all but one team reach the summit of Aconcagua. We have led numerous expeditions in which all climbers have reached the summit, and for those who have reached Camp III, we are confident our summit success is the finest in the industry. The success is a testament to our guides and the hard work and team spirit of our climbers. We believe that with our guides and acclimatization schedule, along with our pre trip assistance, Alpine Ascents offers the best possible chance for you to reach the summit of Aconcagua. Aconcagua has literally been our home away from home. Our extensive experience guiding Aconcagua (as well as other high peaks around the world) has produced outstanding and perhaps unprecedented success rates. Alpine Ascents International has a long-standing reputation of leading successful climbs as well as acting as a prime resource for guide books, climbers and the media.
The Route:
We climb Aconcagua using the nontechnical Vacas Valley Route (Polish Variation). For those climbers who are interested and capable, we also offer an additional summit attempt via the more challenging Polish Glacier Route (on selected trips).
Polish Glacier Option
This additional summit attempt via the more technically difficult Polish Glacier route is offered for a few qualified climbers, given the rigors of climbing ice at 22,000'. On selected trips (see schedule), up to two qualified climbers may attempt the Polish, weather permitting. Guides may also decide not to take climbers up the Polish route if their skill level or fitness are deemed inappropriate during the Aconcagua climb. We make this summit bid after our first attempt of our scheduled non-technical ascent. The climb begins from Camp III and entails a 3,500' elevation gain on steep snow and ice. The climb averages a steepness of 35º, and depending upon conditions, may have technical ice sections up to 60º. Climbers attempting this route need previous ice climbing experience and must acclimatize well to altitudes over 22,000'. This is a very rewarding climb. Only two climbers on the selected trips will be scheduled for the Polish on a first-come, first-served basis. Interested climbers will
need to pay the Polish Glacier supplement fee, must have completed an advanced ice climbing course and have completed multiple ice climbs.
This is a fully guided ascent, led by American guides who climb the mountain with you. We are one of the few outfitters that offer this type of support (and in turn, high success and outstanding safety record). It should be noted that most outfitters merely offer a supported trek, where a single guide facilitates the climb but does not act as a guide during the ascent.
PREREQUISITES
Climbing Skill Level
The Vacas Valley (Polish Variation): While technical skills are not necessary, it is strongly recommended that climbers should have completed our 6-day mountaineering course or the equivalent.
Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as excellent preparation for this climb. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 50lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Porters available upon request.
Comprehensive training information can be found here.
Training Statement From the Guides:
"Although non-technical, this is a highly challenging climb and demands more than most other non-technical climbs (such as certain peaks in the U.S. and Kilimanjaro). This expedition-style climb requires the carrying of a heavy pack for multiple days, making prior physical training of three months or more critical to your success and enjoyment. We highly recommend our 6-day mountaineering course for climbers who have not climbed with a 50 lb. pack or are unsure of the rigors that a climb such as Aconcagua requires. We stress these points to continue our high summit success and ensure that teams are well-balanced."
Environmental Responsibility
Alpine Ascents is deeply committed to maintaining ecosystems at home and around the world. With each expedition, trek and course, we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region. Alpine Ascents reaches for the highest ethical business practices at home and abroad. Each staff member is dedicated to environmentally sound alpine ascents.
At Alpine Ascents environmental stewardship remains one of our core values and we take Leave No Trace ethics and practices very seriously. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. On every one of our courses and climbs we teach and follow the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principals and practices.
Over the years, with the assistance of our Sherpa teams, we have stepped up efforts to clean Mt. Everest. Our Wag Bag® program made a pioneering step in human waste management for the National Park System and Forest Service in the North Cascades. On Aconcagua, we pioneered a waste removal system on our climbs, utilizing the WAG Bag® system. And we continue our on-going maintenance and minimal impact plans wherever we guide. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally conscious mountaineers.
Private Groups
We regularly organize private climbsfor individuals, corporate groups, families and friends. We encourage you to book these climbs early as we are often able to cater these climbs to group-specific desires. Please contact our office to further discuss the benefits of private courses.




