6-Day Alaska Course Itinerary
All six days are spent on the mountain.
Day 1: Arrive Talkeetna. After meeting at 8:00am, we have a thorough gear check and then, weather permitting, fly to the glacier and establish base camp. After setting camp, we practice knot tying, rope handling, prussiking and other related subjects.
Day 2: Snow school. Students learn the fundamentals of moving safely and efficiently on snow slopes of all degrees. Instruction includes: balance and rest techniques, proper use of the ice axe, self-belay, self-arrest, snow climbing in roped teams, anchor placements and technical rope climbing techniques for ascending steep snow slopes. Evening discussions focus on route finding and glacier travel.
Day 3: Crevasse rescue and crampon work. Considerable time is spent on crevasse rescue, as it is an essential skill for safe travel on glaciers. Everyone has the opportunity to rescue an individual from a crevasse. Instruction includes prussiking, pulley systems and placing rescue anchors on snow and ice. Additional instruction will be given in proper crampon use. We begin by developing proper techniques using crampons on low angle ice, move onto steeper and more challenging terrain. Emphasis is placed on proper technique and efficiency, as these are essential on longer alpine routes. At camp we discuss navigation and other mountaineering topics.
Day 4: Glacier travel and climb. Students learn proper climbing techniques for safe glacier travel including: rope techniques for teams of 3-4 persons, route finding through crevassed areas and finally review crevasse rescue. Time permitting, we do a high glacier tour around spectacular ice towers as well as some additional ice climbing. In the early evening, we prepare for our summit attempt and enjoy the incredible views our high camp provides.
Day 5: Summit day. This is generally a long and demanding day where you will have a chance to apply all of the skills learned during the course. With clear weather, we should be rewarded with a spectacular view from the summit.
Day 6: Additional skills training and/or Extra summit day. We spend this day reviewing skills and rounding out the curriculum. This day will be utilized for an additional summit attempt if weather or other conditions prevent an attempt on Day 5. Return to Base Camp and Fly to Talkeetna.