The Spanish named the mountains of the Andes, cordilleras (knotted ropes) to depict their wild and rugged nature. The Cordillera Real (royal range), is Bolivia's foremost climbing region with eight peaks rising above 6,000m. The goal of our 15 day expedition is an ascent of Huayna Potosi (19,996 ft/6,090m) and Pequeno Alpamayo (17,482 ft/5,330m), which stand in bold relief above the altiplano (high plateau). The panoramic views from their summits are exquisite as these dramatic peaks are considered by many to be the most stunning mountains in the Cordillera Real.
The first days of the expedition are spent in La Paz, the world's highest capital, acclimatizing, shopping and exploring Tiwanaku and Isla Surique. The ancient land of Tiwanaku, located just south of Lake Titicaca (12,500'), was the center of Bolivia's most important pre-Colombian civilization. Fifty percent of Bolivia's descendants are of Amyara and Quecha (pre-Colombian) cultures. You will often hear Amyara and Quecha city residents referred to as "cholos." Today, the Amyara, descendants of the Tiwanaku, raise alpaca and llama while living off potatoes, barley and quinoa, which are grown in the altiplano. Continuing our acclimatization, we return the next day to Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. There, we visit Isla Surique, world-famous for its totora reed boats.
Upon leaving La Paz we begin our expedition to three peaks. These easy to moderately difficult ascents of three Andean peaks is an ideal trip for Mountaineering School graduates and experienced climbers alike. We will complete a basic skills review on the spectacular peak of Ilusion (16,897 ft/5,150m), an easy snow climb, and absorb the numerous sights from the summit.
We proceed to Pequeno Alpamayo. Simply an outstanding climb, the aesthetic nature of this mountain embodies the lure of Bolivian climbing. The steep fluted faces and knife-edge ridges of this pyramid-shaped peak, allow us to drink in the full range of South American vistas. Our final objective is Huayna Potosi with moderately steep terrain of snow and ice and wonderful exposure from the narrow airy summit (looking over the 3000ft. west face). It is a highly memorable and challenging climb for even the most seasoned alpinist.
Illimani Extension
Already acclimatized from Huayna Potosi, those interested may remain in this stunning region to attempt Illimani (21,122 ft/6,438m), as it looms over La Paz's Southeastern skyline. Our climb will consist of a series of camps, climbing the West Ridge of Pico Sur. It is a challenging, steep climb including a heavily crevassed glacier. The ascent itself is quite spectacular as the entire massif spans more than 7 kilometers and contains more than 6 summits over 20,000 feet (6100m)! This wonderful climb will give you the chance to stand over 21,000 feet.
PREREQUISITES
Climbing Skill Level
Climbers should have successfully completed our 6-Day Training course or have equivalent skills and experience. They must have basic knowledge of progression on snow and ice, self arrest, crevasse rescue and glacier travel. Snow and ice slopes to be dealt with are moderate (up to 45-55 degrees for 800 feet on Pequeño Alpamayo and up to 40-50 degrees on Huayna Potosi). Before attempting Pequeño Alpamayo we will review glacier skills on the Pirámide Blanca glacier. For the Illimani Extension, climbers additionally must feel comfortable walking along airy rocky and snowy ridges. The requirements are also based on our desire to have similarly skilled team members.
Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as excellent preparation for this climb. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 40lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.
Environmental Responsibility
Alpine Ascents is deeply committed to maintaining ecosystems at home and around the world. With each expedition, trek and course, we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region. Alpine Ascents reaches for the highest ethical business practices at home and abroad. Each staff member is dedicated to environmentally sound alpine ascents.
At Alpine Ascents environmental stewardship remains one of our core values and we take Leave No Trace ethics and practices very seriously. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. On every one of our courses and climbs we teach and follow the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principals and practices.
Over the years, with the assistance of our Sherpa teams, we have stepped up efforts to clean Mt. Everest. Our Wag Bag® program made a pioneering step in human waste management for the National Park System and Forest Service in the North Cascades. On Aconcagua, we pioneered a waste removal system on our climbs, utilizing the WAG Bag® system. And we continue our on-going maintenance and minimal impact plans wherever we guide. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally conscious mountaineers.
Private Groups
We regularly organize private climbsfor individuals, corporate groups, families and friends. We encourage you to book these climbs early as we are often able to cater these climbs to group-specific desires. Please contact our office to further discuss the benefits of private courses.
