Carstensz Pyramid

(16,023ft/4,884m) Irian Jaya

Fantastic expedition. Everything one might ask for from hair raising flights to jungle bushwhacking to cliff hanging. Full-on adventure. Excellent guides. And an unforgettable experience. —-Jeff A.

Overview - Heli In and Heli Out. (Please contact us for Trekking Option)
As one of the first outfitters to lead trips to Carstensz Pyramid (1994) we are excited to be offering a fly in and fly out option for our upcoming departure. Each season we adjust our trip to current circumstances, working closely with local outfitters to use transport and porter support in the best combination.

Why Helicopter Travel: We choose to use Helicopters for our upcoming expedition as we see this as the best chance to provide a successful expedition while meeting the logistical challenges of traveling in Western Papua.  Trekking trips bear much reliance on local Dani Tribesman and helicopter transport in general reduces the amount of variables in reaching our destination. Additionally local politics, staying health while trekking and the extremely limited ability to provide emergency assistance while trekking makes helicopter use the best option.

As noted our experience on Carstensz is unsurpassed as we have 100% success in over 20 years of service. More about our experience

About Carstensz
If we attempt to define exotic, then we may begin with Western Papua (formerly Irian Jaya). For in the lush jungles of the Beliem Valley, we meet the Dani tribesman, our guides, who were first introduced to westerners in the 1960's. This is perhaps the most interesting climb Alpine Ascents offers weaving a deeply influencing cultural experience with a challenging rock climb. All climbs are led by an  Alpine Ascents guide.

Located in the western central highlands, Carstensz Pyramid is the highest mountain on the Oceanic continent. We arrive by charter flight, the take a helicopter to base camp. After rest and arrival we will attempt to summit Carstensz Pyramid. Following the climb we return via Helicopter to local village for further transport out. Regionally,  Western Papua has had relatively little Western influence, the Stone Age Dani lifestyle and rituals have been able to continue in a somewhat authentic manner. One representation of traditional culture is manifested in their dress, as women are clothed in grass skirts and men in holims or penis gourds. Tourism has not arrived in many of these areas, and thus we are extremely sensitive and careful about our impact on the region.

Unlike the other Seven Summits, Carstensz is a rock climb of moderate difficulty. (5.8 for short steps but most of the climbing is scrambling). While all short technical sections will have fixed lines, climbers should possess basic rock climbing skills. Our past expeditions proved to be fantastic all-around experiences and each climb culminated with nearly 100 percent summit success! (40 out of 41 climbers)  See the cybercast of our last climb to Carstensz for more.

About Carstensz Pyramid
At 16,023 ft. (4,884m), Carstensz Pyramid, or Puncak Jaya ("Victory Peak"), as the Indonesians call it, is located in the western central highlands and is the highest peak in Oceania, Australiasia continent. The mountain was named after Jan Carstensz, a Dutch explorer who was the first European to sight the peak. In 1962, Heinrich Harrer became the first foreigner to reach the peak. His book, I Come From the Stone Age, provides excellent reading about climbing Carstensz and other peaks in the area, as well as his experiences of living with the Dani.

The route on Carstensz Pyramid follows a series of gullies up the north face for 500m of solid rock before breaking out on the ridge. Riddled with notches, the summit ridge undulates for half a kilometer from this point to the top. One of the gaps is 20m deep, and we rappel this overhanging pitch and leave a rope fixed to jumar on our return. On our descent, we rappel short distances and down-climb most of the way. The rock is extremely good, rarely loose, and provides good friction even in wet weather.

The rock-climbing difficulty on Carstensz is up to 5.8 for short steps, but most of the climbing is scrambling. It is important that you have basic rock-climbing skills and are comfortable with rappelling and jumaring. Short technical sections have fixed lines allowing you to either free climb or jumar. These fixed lines have been a crucial part of our 100 percent success rate.

In the highland areas, daytime temperatures should range between 75° and 85° F, with most evenings about 45° F. Expect warm afternoon showers, which may turn cool if encountered on a mountain pass. Closer to Carstensz, snow or inclement weather may occur. Temperatures can range from 28° to 60° F with sunshine occasionally in the mornings, then rainfall in the afternoons and evenings. Winds are variable and can be strong.

A Brief History of Papua
Western Papua occupies the western half of New Guinea. This island is located immediately south of the equator, and is the world's second largest island, following Greenland. Western Papua provides a panoply of Old World tropical species. This is due to the land bridge linking Australia and New Guinea during the last ice age. Western Papua's climate is primarily a function of topography. The low-lying north and south sides of the island possess great tropical jungles, while the mountain ranges exhibit temperate conditions. The mountains run east to west and rise to 16,023 ft. (4,884m) at Carstensz Pyramid.

Politically, Western Papua is the easternmost province of Indonesia. The area was initially claimed by the Dutch in the mid-1800s as part of their Spice Island empire, but by 1940 they had still not explored further inland than the coastal plains. The Dutch wanted to prepare Irian Jaya for self-government by 1970, but from the late 1950s, Indonesia was exerting pressure to annex the area and, with help from the United Nations, this was accomplished in 1963. This process was not universally accepted by native Papuans and discontent still prevails in certain areas. In 1961, the Harvard Peabody Museum sponsored a major expedition to the Grand A Valley to document the Dani's Stone Age culture (see Peter Matthiessen's Under the Mountain Wall). Wamena, the site of the valley's airstrip, has grown into a small town, but in general, the only big changes since then are that tribal fighting and cannibalism have ended. The province was in 1973 re-named Irian Jaya, "Victorious Irian." The indigenous movement has since identified themselves as West Papuan.

Beyond the Grand Valley of the Baliem River many other groups live in smaller valleys. These people were not contacted by the West until the 1960s and 1970s, when missionaries began penetrating these regions. In the highlands to the east of the Baliem River, the Yali, Mek, and Kim-Yal people comprise some of the other large tribal groups. 


Climbing Skill Level
Our Rock Course or the equivalent is recommended. Climbers should posess basic rock climbing skills and a rock climbing course or equivalent is recommended.

Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as excellent preparation for this climb. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 30lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.

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