Everest Cybercast
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May 27- BC- Final Cybercast Dispatch
Wow. What to say. Weve had a great experience here on the mountain. From the wonderful Nepali staff weve gotten to know to the other international groups on the mountain- its all been quite a ride. Despite the dehydration and spent bodies the team is still enjoying a high from having been to the top and come down safely. Last night we had a celebration with the Sherpa climbing team complete with Nepali pop music and beer, wine, whisky and dancing. The team expressed their great appreciation for the excellent support of the Sherpa. Our team was blown away by how attentive and experienced our Sherpa climbers were on summit day. There certainly developed a quick bond. This morning were all a bit smelly from Lhakpa repeatedly shaking up cans of beer and spraying them around the dining tent. We were very fortunate to have had such a spectacular summit day. It was astounding. Even at the exposed portion of the route up on the south summit and Hillary step we had just puffs of wind. The views down the Khumbu valley to Namche Bazaar were totally unobstructed by clouds early in the morning and we found ourselves looking down upon the massive peaks of Pumori, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, etc. The views out towards the Tibetan Plateau early in the morning were equally spectacular. There was a blanket of clouds over the plateau as the sun rose. Looking back along the ridge towards Makalu was all that it was made out to be- idyllic. This morning is also a calm and clear one. The last teams of the season are going for the summit today. BC has started to turn into a bit of a ghost town. Well certainly contribute to that as our large camp moves out completely tomorrow. The prayer flags will all come down along with the tents and rock structures weve created. The entire team would like to thank all of their friends and family out there for their support and enthusiasm throughout this expedition. This was a goal for many that sometimes is difficult to support. But without that support it wouldnt be the experience that it is. So thanks from all the members here. We also want to thank once again our grand Nepali local staff. It wouldnt be possible without them. Vern, Jim, Ellie and I would like to thank the team for their enthusiasm and patience throughout the expedition. Though sometimes pushed to limits they all stayed focused and motivated to make this happen safely. Once again wed like to compliment them all on how strong they were. This was quite an exceptional team. Thats it from all of us here at Everest. We'll see you soon to tell the stories! Namaste and Tashi Delek- Dave and the team |
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May 25
Hello friends, family and loved ones, This is Vern Tejas reporting that we have succeeded in our goal of safely climbing Mt. Everest. All team members have made it to the top, and we have now successfully descended down to camp 2 at 21,143 feet. We have set some new records. We have the youngest man to have completed the seven summits - that is Britton Keeshan. We also have Holt Hunter, the first man from the Caribbean to summit Mt. Everest. And we have Haruisha Watanabe, the youngest Japanese man to climb Mt. Everest. We also have Mills Davis, the first lady from Kentucky to climb Mt. Everest, and the first man from Tennessee, Scott Graham. We also have the third Canadian to complete the seven summits, which is Jeff Dossett. So we have a real all-star cast, including Mills, the first woman summiter for Alpine Ascents. We had a wonderful showing; everyone came safely down the Lhotse Face, a very dangerous part of the trip. We were very fortunate to be able to come down in a very timely fashion on a very blustery day. We did seem to have picked the right day for the weather. Right now it's very cloudy and windy up toward the summit, so we're very happy to have had the weatherman on our side. Tomorrow we head down to base camp where we'll celebrate our success and enjoy our first beers in a long time. That's all for now. Thank you very much for tuning in. Ciao for now, Vern Note from Ellie: I was just doing a little math and discovered that Alpine Ascents has put 48 people on the top of Everest in three years: 17 in 2002, 14 in 2003, and 17 in 2004. Good work, team! |
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May 24-S. Col
Have I mentioned yet that this team is amazing. It's 1:30 in the afternoon and they are already starting to arrive back at camp 4 at the South Col. That's hours ahead of when our groups normally get down. It sure makes it easier on those of us who are trying to monitor their progress. This has been a very efficient and trouble-free summit night - may it continue until everyone is safe back at base camp. The good weather continues to hold, with clouds mostly here in the valley and good conditions up higher. I'm sure the folks will be happy to sip on some tea and climb into their sleeping bags for a well deserved rest. Tomorrow the team will head down from the South Col to spend a night at Camp 2, and then on down to base camp the following day. They won't believe how thick the air is here at 17,600 ft. compared to where they've been. So for now I'm going to join them for a nap. It's been a long night and I could use some sleep as well. Ellie |
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Summit
SUMMIT! We have just been notified that all members (except Jim Williams, who turned around last night) of the 2004 AAI Everest Expedition have reached the summit of Mt. Everest. The first ones arrived at the top at about 9:00 am. Nepal time, with the last ones coming in about 45 minutes later. Well done, team! Congratulations go to guides Vernon Tejas, Dave Morton,and Jim Williams, and to members Mills Davis, Justin Adams, Haruisha Watanabe, Scott Graham, Jeff Dossett, Holt Hunter, and Britton Keeshan. Special recognition also goes to our hard working team of sherpas: Lakpa Rita, our amazing sirdar, and his assistant sirdar and brother, Kami Rita (Thapkee). Our summit team of sherpas also included Mingma Tshering, Passang Sona, Tsherri, Tshering Dorjee, Pemba Renjee, and Mingma Dorjee (congratulations to Dorjee for his first time to the summit). Thanks also goes to our sherpa support team of Zhang Bu, Natemba, Gelek, Pemba Nuru, Nema, Furba Tenzing, Passang Rita, Fura Cancha, and Mingma Rita. It takes teamwork do do a job like this, and these guys are the best. We will now be monitoring the team as they begin their descent back to the South Col, and I will try to report periodically on their progress. We're looking forward to seeing them all safe and sound back at camp 4 - and I'm sure they'll be glad to be there. Way to go, team! Ellie |
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May 24 eight oclock
Yahoo! Everyone was at the South Summit by about 7:30 am.. Conditions are still excellent. The sun is out, which I'm sure the team really appreciates after the cold night. And there is still not much in the way of wind. I was a little concerned when I saw a little spindrift blowing on the West Ridge, but the report is that there is no problem with wind up higher. I am amazed and thrilled with the 7:30 South Summit time. This is the earliest any group has arrived at the South Summit in my four years as base camp manager. As Ong Chu has been saying this entire expedition,"these guys are really strong". A few sherpas from neighboring camps are already starting to drift over to our camp for tea and hopefullly to help us celebrate the summit in a couple of hours. We are also being treated to a rare sight this morning - there are a couple of ultralights flying around up toward the Western Cwm. The sherpas think they flew up from Shayngboche, and that there are a lot of them over around Pokhara. This is the first time I've ever seen one here. I guess that just proves the conditions up there are good. More soon, Ellie |
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May 24-fourforty am
Hello from Mt. Everest, It is 4:40 in the morning and I have just been talking to Lakpa through Ang Tsering at camp 2. Lakpa reports that the climbing team is at the balcony and heading up, still in good conditions. It has been cold, but everyone is doing well. Finally it is starting to get light out but we won't get full sun for another couple of hours yet. I'm sure the team will appreciate it when the sun hits and starts to warm things up a bit. We have also been told that Jim Williams has turned around and returned to the South Col. Sounds like he is having an off day and just wasn't feeling strong enough to go all the way to the summit. So congratulations to Jim for getting as far as he has. He is fine and will now be able to contribute as part of the back-up team. Ellie |
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May24-three am.
May 24, 3:00 am. - Well, it's dark and snowing again at base camp, but things seem to be going well on the climb. I still have not had radio contact with the climbing team, which is what we expected given the cold up there. So be patient, we should start seeing some daylight in a bit over an hour. I'm expecting they will be getting up toward the balcony by then. In the meantime things are pretty quiet here at base camp. Ong Chu is sleeping, and Gopal headed that way a while ago as well. We'll trade off the radio watch again in another hour or two. Keeping the juniper fires burning, Ellie |
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May 23 Midnight
Hello from Everest, It's now midnight, and Lama Geshe seems to be right in saying this is an auspicious day to climb. So far things are going well. The wind has dropped, and even here at base camp the stars are beginning to come out. When the climbers left the South Col at 10:00pm. all we could see down here was clouds and snow. I have not had a radio call from the team for a while, but from the time schedules of previous Everest expeditions they are still plodding their way up the triangular face. I don't expect them to get to the balcony for another two or three hours. Here at base camp we are trading shifts for monitoring the radio. Ong Chu and Gopal had the first shift while I got a little shut-eye. Now they are now heading off to bed while I take over for the next few hours. I have a nice propane heater going, a lantern, my book, and a thermos of dudh chia (milk tea), so I'm set to go. That's all for now, Ellie |
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23 May 9:45 pm.
Hello in Cyberland, Well, it's "showtime"! This is Ellie reporting from base camp because the team has their hands full drinking tea, putting on boots and down suits, and getting ready to go. I just talked to Lakpa at the South Col and everything is looking good for the summit attempt. The team spent the day at the South Col eating, drinking, resting, and breathing oxygen to get their strength up of the long night going to the summit. The skies have been clear and sunny, but there was a bit of wind during the afternoon. Lakpa now says that the wind has dropped and conditions and good. Our appreciation also goes to Kami Rita (Thapkee) and Passang Sona, who spent the day climbing almost to the South Summit making sure all the fixed lines were in good shape. They are now back at the South Col and ready to do the climb all over again with the team. I have told the climbers to be careful about calling in. If there is any danger of frostbite they should not take their mittens off to try to use the radio. I will send in reports every couple of hours, but if it is very cold up there I may not have any new news. This will be a case of no news is good news. Here at base camp we have juniper burning and are saying prayers as the climbers start on their way. Ellie |
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May 23- Camp 4
7,800 meters-25,590 feet 2 pm OM MANI PEDMI HOM - a Sherpa prayer We are planning to begin our summit attempt at 10 pm on the 23 May 2004.We will climb throughout the night and hopefully reach the summit in 10-12 hours. Today we awoke to the first clear sky in nearly a week. The team has spent the day eating, drinking and breathing supplemental oxygen. We will continue to rest throughout the day. After dinner we will start dressing around 8 pm. Our planned departure is 10 pm. Today two of our top climbing Sherpas went to the South Summit to check the route. We are all greatly endebted to our Sherpa team led by Lakpa Rita Sherpa - an Alpine Ascents International Senior Guide and Expedition Sirdar [leader]. At the moment we are keeping our eye on the weather and hoping for another summit day. Off to sleep before we begin!!! If we begin tonight Ellie, our BC manager, will be sending in our cybercasts throughout the attempt. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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May 22- Camp 4
The team is very happy to be in camp four after a breath taking day. We are tired from the effort of the climb but settling into our sleeping bags and eating a hot dinner. We love our Sherpas. It been stormy all day and yet we are doing well at the highest camp on earth and that's in a large part due to this wonderful experienced team of high altitude professionals we have working with us. Our group of climbers are the strongest I've been on Everest with. Now all we need is a good rest and some reasonable weather....which according to at least two of our weather reports is just around the corner. Stay tuned. A big congrats to Middlebury Class 2004! Here's the gang making their way onto and over the yellow band. Namaste, Vern and Crew 143 |
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May 21, 2004. Camp III. Evening
It is dark now and were trying to get dinner on and everybody fed and watered. So stay tuned, stay with us, the weather is hopefully improving, we are in clouds, had some snow today. That was actually good because it kept us cool, the sun can be quite intense at this altitude. We plan on going up to Camp IV tomorrow and we are looking forward to getting some calm winds and hopefully then the sunshine comes through these clouds. So ciao for now, we are thinking of you, bye bye. |
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May 21- CIII
Here's a shot rolling into CIII today. All our best, Dave and the gang |
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May 20- Camp II
21,015 feet Snow, snow and more snow plagued us most of the day here at Camp 2. We were able to take advanrage of the day and rest as planned. Much of today was spent mulling over all the different weather reports trying make sence of it all. At the moment we still plan to stick with our scheduled summit attempt on the 23-24 May. Today we also reviwed the use of our oxygen system. We will begin to use supplemental oxygen tomorrow night at Camp 3. We will climb the rest of the way to the summit with supplemental oxygen. No photo today but tomorrow we'll definitely include one. Up early and off to Camp 3 in the morning if all goes well. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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May 19- CII
We had beautiful broken clouds with occasional precipitation as we climbed to CII today. The group's feeling well adjusted to this altitude and even able to 'walk and talk' at the same time. This afternoon we had a bit of snow- something the forecasts had been calling for. Now, at 8:45 p.m., it's broken and the skies are clear. Our plan for tomorrow is to wake up and check the most recent forecast and then decide about moving to CIII or staying here for a rest. I can assure you each and every member is healthy and hanging in there. It's difficult being patient as the summit gets so close. A couple smacks upside the head has kept everyone in line! We're keeping everyone at home close in our thoughts. All our best, Dave and the team |
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May 18th. Camp I
Our ascent through the icefall included getting to congratulate many summiters on their way down. There were some wobbly legs and some knackered looking faces. There were plans for summits today as well, and by the looks of the day there may have been successes. This morning the winds up high did look a bit strong though. Tomorrow we will head on up to Camp II as soon as the sun hits. We are continually getting quicker with each trip so the climb to Camp II should be nice and short. Today we arrived in Camp I by 10:30. Once we settle into Camp II, we will do another evaluation of the forecast and weather and then make a decision as to our next move. Everyone here is healthy and hanging in there for this last push. We send our best, Dave and the team. |
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May 18 cybercast
Hello in cyberland, Last night a few people claimed they slept well. But for most of us the excitement was building in anticipation of the first day of our bid toward the summit. Ong Chu woke us all up at 3:00 this morning, and yes, it was still dark out. We could tell who was getting up by the flash of headlamp light on the tent walls. By 4:30 the whole team walked out of base camp past the puja altar and burning juniper and headed for the fixed lines of the Khumbu Icefall. Here at base camp we could watch them as they climbed up through the broken section known as the "popcorn", and then disappeared into the ice seracs of the upper icefall. A radio call about 11:00 a.m. told us they had all arrived safe and sound at camp 1. I suspect a few members were out napping and sunbathing this afternoon after their early start this morning. Tomorrow the team plans to move on up through the Western Cwm to camp 2, where they will once again be sending you the cybercast from the mountain in person. Seems an important telephone cable was inadvertantly left in base camp this morning, but it will be sent up to camp 2 via sherpa express first thing in the morning. That's all from base camp, Ellie |
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May 17- Everest BC
Well, this is the night we have been waiting for. Tonight we shift from phase three to phase four. No longer are we resting and recuperating&..we are now shifting into high gear. We are now climbers. And though the weather forecasts are less than stellar we will be getting up at 3:00 am to start our final ascent. With good conditions the process will take a week, in bad conditions we probably wont make it. We are to a tee, all very stoked to actually be in position and ready to go. Itll be tough to sleep tonight. We are sad to report that Sticky wont be joining us as she has withdrawn from the expedition with respiratory problems. She gave it a very noble effort yet in the end she didnt want to hold the team back. We will miss you Sticky, may you get well soon. Please join us for the next week or so as we aspire to stand on top of the world. It could be fun or it could be challenging but it certainly will be exciting. So come along for the ride as we give it our all. Namaste, Vern Tejas and Team |
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May 16- Everest BC
The entire team returned to Base Camp from our R&R trip to Debuche. All the members have returned to Base Camp healthy and eager to begin the summit push. Many teams have summitted in the last two days. The number of climbers to reach the summit over the past few days has been in excess of fifty (50). Over the next few days most of the other teams will finish their summit bids and begin to pack to leave. Our team is preparing to begin our summit bid. If all goes according to plan and the weather cooperates we will follow this plan: 17 May 2004 Rest and pack the last items for Summit push 18 May 2004 Begin the summit push. Base Camp to Camp 1 19 May 2004 Camp 1 to Camp 2 20 May 2004 Rest at Camp 2 21 May 2004 Camp 2 to Camp 3 (sleep with oxygen for the first time) 22 May 2004 Camp 3 to Camp 4 South Col (first day climbing with oxygen) 23 May 2004 Camp 4 rest and prepare for late night departure for the summit 24 May 2004 Summit day return to South Col 25 May 2004 Return to Camp 2 26 May 2004 Return to Base Camp 27 May 2004 Base Camp 28 May 2004 Pack and begin the return journey Many things can change but if all goes well this is our plan. We will let you know as things develop here at Base Camp. We are watching the weather closely and it will be the most influential factor in our decision to begin our summit bid. More as we begin the climb towards the summit. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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May 15- Lobuche
Being in the Khumbu Valley and climbing this mountain is an experience not only because of the actual climb itself but everything that surrounds the idea of Mt. Everest. There is so much history and mythology relating to Mt. Everest that it is hard to imagine this area and these people without it. For the Sherpa here the mountain is intertwined with their culture and mythology and now also obviously with their economy. For us, the physical mountain and the climb hasnt changed much since Hillary and Norgays day, though the logistics have changed markedly. Just knowing that I am typing this note to be sent immediately to our website so that others may read it exemplifies some of those changes. Yet it is within the context of so much history and meaning surrounding Mt. Everest that makes the climb the experience that it is. Weve discussed often the early expeditions to the Tibet side of this mountain with the likes of Lambert, Irvine and Mallory. Also the history here on the south side since Nepal was opened to tourism. The success of Hillary and Norgay as well as the first American expedition and its success and the bold ascent of local Seattle heroes Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld. Weve also sat at CII and looked up at the Southwest Face that the British first climbed. The rich and long history of climbing this mountain is a big part of the present experience as well as the role it plays in the local peoples lives. Well be setting off early tomorrow morning from Lobuche to BC and hope to arrive in time for one of Ong Chuus excellent lunchtime meals! Im still trying to convince someone to join me for an early walk up Kala Pattar, a spectacular 18,500 ft. viewpoint. I may have a couple takers! The gang is all feeling well and gearing up for our last stay in BC. Weve totally enjoyed our low altitude rest- Monopoly, a bit of beer, and plenty of thick air! All our best, Dave and the team |
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May 14- Pheriche
Twas a wonderous morning for a walk. We sadly bib adieu to Mingma and his lovely wife, who have been our hosts these last three restful days. We trekked our way along the roaring Dhud Kosi river under the shadow of Ama Dablam(one of the prettiest mountains on earth). We are excited about the prospect of returning to the mountain. The weather is good, so hopefully many climbers will take their shot at the top which will allow us to climb relatively unencumbered by other teams. We wish them all the best and await the good news. We sauntered along at a casual pace breaking above the tree line and leaving the flowers behind. The air is noticeably thinner in Pheriche yet we are revitalized by our R&R and look forward to climbing again. A sense of camaraderie exist now that didnt before and I think we are now ready for the challenge that awaits us above. Please stay tuned. Namaste, Vern and Team |
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May 13- Deboche
Debouche, Nepal Life of leisure is finally coming to an end. Today was the final day of our rest at lower altitude. Most of the day was spent resting and eating. Most of the members have slowed down on their food consumption. Members have regained much of the weight they lost earlier in the expedition. It is our hope that we will return to Base Camp fit and ready to begin our summit push. The next few days we will trek back to Base Camp along the same route we took on the way down. It is our hope we will be able to return to Base Camp and then rest a day before beginning our summit push. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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May 12- Deboche
This morning we had a quick breakfast and then went up to Tengboche monastery for the morning chanting and prayers. We had a brief audience with the reincarnate lama (or Rinpoche) and he gave us his blessing for safe passage on the mountain. The reincarnate lama here at Tengboche was the very first Tibetan Buddhist reincarnate to be discovered in the Khumbu valley. Or in other words he was the first Sherpa found to be a reincarnate in a Tibetan Buddhist lineage. He is a well respected figure in the Sherpa community. This evening we are all relaxing around the wood burning stove inside the lodge and enjoying the warmth. Some are reading and others are just gabbing- our favorite pastime. We have the entire lodge to ourselves tonight so there has been talk of still getting out a movie though I doubt that will happen by the looks of the sleepy faces. Tomorrow well spend another day here resting and then on Friday well begin our walk back to BC. Our view of Everests summit this morning appeared to show very calm conditions though from here theres no telling. As weve mentioned before there are teams most likely moving into position at CII to be ready for a predicted good weather window on the 15th or 16th. We hope that this turns out to be true as many teams may summit in that window. The more teams to get up and down before us the better as the route up high will be less crowded. Our plan is to be back in BC on the 16th and be fully ready to take advantage of the next weather window. Know we are all relaxing in good health and good spirits here! Until later, all our best- Dave |
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May 11- Deboche
Oh my goodness, this oxygen stuff is really good. We are reveling in it, drowning in it and more importantly recuperating in it. After a three hour trek down the Duhd Kosi river we arrived at the site of our rest and recuperation the Ama Dablam Garden Lodge. Even though the inn is higher than most mountains in North America it is low enough that our bodies can recover from the last month of living a mile higher. Our appetites have come back with a vengeance. We are eating four times a day and several of us had a double breakfast this morning. Folks are in good humor with more than the usual amount of ribbing going on. No ones safe as even I have taken hits from the team. It just goes to show how cocky we are all feeling. Oxygen is good. Sleep patterns have improved and most health problems, which are persistent at altitude, have now subsided. We are mending. And this healing will continue for the next several days. Its so pleasant to be here, birds are singing in the trees, the trees are blooming, the blooms are treating our senses of site and smell to pleasures unknown for a month. A young colt shares our lunch with us. We are in paradise. Namaste (I honor the place in you in which the entire universe dwells which is of peace, love and the truth of life), Vern and Team |
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May 10- Pheriche
Pheriche Khumbu Valley, Nepal 4,459 meters 14,360 feet Rest and Recover that is the plan for this week. The group left Base Camp and a windy Everest summit heading for greener pastures and lower elevations. We will spend the next few days resting, eating and enjoying the green grass and beautiful flowers that are beginning to bloom. Base Camp is a buzz with summit fever. Many groups are getting ready for their summit push. We will return by the middle of the month and wait for our best chance. We have many tournaments going on in our Base Camp but the most competitive is the Mountaineering Monopoly. Last night in a show down game the competitors called it a draw after one of the player admitted some inappropriate moves and the game ended. Hopefully the young Monopoly climber will not try the moves during the climb. The real focus of the task in front of us now will soon sink in and all members will soon become focused of the final climb that we will begin in the coming weeks. The past month of real life training will pay off. The team will be enjoying life is the green grass for the next few days. We will share our excitement and observations with you all over the next few days. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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Happy Mothers Day to all mothers on this beautiful sunny and I might add thoroughly oxygenated day. The air is so thick down here and the oxygen so sweet. The team is responding quite nicely to our acclimatization program. All are eating like horses now that we are down to a lower elevation. We made excellent time through the Icefall as we descended all the way down from Camp 2 to our base camp. Our first order was to grab a hot shower then a cold drink with some salmon appetizers. That was enough to hold us till a big burrito bash for lunch. We gorged ourselves. We are now entering phase three of our expedition. This is the fun stage where we relax and stuff ourselves. We go on the Seefood diet, thats anything we see, we eat. Then we lay around and let our bodies rest and recuperate. This is all in preparation for phase four, our actual summit push, which is over a week away. In the mean time, please stay tuned and hear us say please pass me another 3 egg omelet, and may I have a double helping of chicken fried rice? You are in our hearts and prayers, Namste, Vern & Team |
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May 8- Camp II
It's a warm and calm Saturday afternoon here in CII on Mt. Everest. We returned from CIII at around noon after a speedy descent. Our night at CIII was thankfully uneventful and each member at least caught a few zzz's. It was good to get higher on the mountain once again. Pushing the high point up keeps everyone feeling as though we are making progress. The view up through the yellow band, over the Geneva Spur and on to the south col also provoked some excitement! The gang is all doing well resting here in CII after the restless night up above. Early tomorrow morning we'll again start back to BC and try to get through the icefall before the late afternoon sun. Our Sherpa team will continue to take loads of oxygen to the south col. The past two days have seen each of the sherpa taking loads of food and tents to the col. They're our stars up here. On Monday we'll start down valley for our pre-summit rest period. I'm looking forward to being among trees, plants and wildlife and spending some time with this team off the mountain. Our jokes and insults are getting a bit old up here and we need some thicker air to mix things up! All the best, Dave |
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May 7- Camp III
We are now snuggled in our tents at Camp 3 waiting for dinner. We hope to return to Camp 2 and BC over the next few days. Tashi Delek Jim Williams |
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A View of CII
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May 6- Camp II
Vern here with the cyberupdate. Camp two is treating us well. Though it's colder here at 20,714.3 ft. the winds have moderated and that makes for happy campers. As with any rest day entertainment becomes a critical factor in our day. Our team is diverse enough that topics for discussion abound and political hot topics kept us occupied for hours. Of course mental acuity at this altitude is rather diminished, so you can imagine the fun we have. The team is in a good mood and adapting well. All are looking forward to ascending to camp three tomorrow, so we will be going to bed early tonight. An alpine start will put us in position to spend the acclimatizing. We are just hoping the wind doesn't return as we will be sitting ducks on the exposed Lhotse face. Keep those fingers crossed . Namaste |
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May 5- Camp II
We moved quickly from CI to CII today. Everyone's certainly feeling stronger at altitude judging by our time. Or they're trying as quickly as possible to get away from CI and my cooking! I'm impressed with this team. Each and everyone is sleeping and eating well plus moving strongly during the day. We couldn't be happier at this point. Tomorrow the team will take a rest day in camp while the sherpa take the first loads to CIV. Then the following day we will move to CIII for the night. It'll definitely be a restless first one at CIII. We're hoping the weather will cooperate with diminishing winds as predicted. Some teams we able to touch CIV despite the strong wind today. There are a some people from various teams ready to give it a shoot so we're eagerly watching. Unfortunately we had our cameras buried during our move today so our selection was greatly lacking. Tomorrow we'll try to get out a couple to make up! We will get a team shot as we know you out there are hoping to see some familiar faces. This image is from CI last night just before hitting the sack! We send our best, Dave |
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May 4- Camp I
Camp 1 was setup for us by the sherpas. Boy were we lucky as the wind was gusting hard enough to knock us off our feet. We spent the early afternoon building snow walls to protect the tents. Finally the wind died down and we were all able to enjoy a nice dinner. In the morning we will pack our bags and head to Camp 2 through the Western CWM. We hope to ascend to Camp 3 on this trip. We are resting cofortably here at Camp 1. The wind has died down and we are typing this cybercast from inside our tent. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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Weve had a busy day for a rest day. We are heading up tomorrow so packing and preparation filled most of the afternoon. Winds are still high but our weather reports lead us to believe they should soon slow down a bit to a reasonable level. Looking four or five days out we want low wind when we are spending the night at camp three. So, wish us the best come Friday, well need all the help we can get. Our tummy troubles seem to be abating which is good because we are going to be focusing all our energy on adapting. Weve had a good long rest and the troops are growing restless to move up. Eager is a great way to describe the team. The winds dropping and our health improving so now is the time for action. That will happen bright and early at three AM which is very soon, therefore we're off to bed (19:20) now to minimize our risk in the Icefall. The full moon shall guide us until the sun catches us. Photo: The chicken dance! Good night and sweet dreams, Vern and Team |
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May 2- Everest BC
In the afternoon we went out to the base of the icefall and went through a mock scenario of being higher on Everest. Everyone donned their oxygen mask, goggles, and heavy mitts and went through a ropes course. What a challenge to breath through an oxygen mask at 17,000+ ft. with no oxygen running through it. Its a bit like running around a track while breathing through a straw! The gang did a great job and I think everyone is more than ready to get back high on the mountain. A couple of us are still recovering from this obnoxious stomach bug but everyone is on the up and up. Everest BC is in a bit of a holding pattern at the moment. The few teams that are ready to make their move on the summit are hanging back to see if the forecast turns out to be correct. High winds are expected on the upper mountain more or less throughout the week. Therefore plans have been pushed back for many groups. The fixed lines are set up to CIV. The icefall is in great shape though the recent high winds have wreaked havoc on CIII. Weve just this evening had some of the stronger winds yet at BC. In any event our plan is to take tomorrow at BC once again and then start to CI on Tuesday. If the weather cooperates we will be spending our first night in CIII by this weekend. The strong winds up high have made for beautiful days here at BC. The near full moon and clear skies have made looking out ones tent at night a real treat. BC is beautiful under these conditions. The lack of movement up high has also made for more socializing. With nearly all teams in BC now our team has had a good time getting to know the others. We hope all is well wherever you are. Dave |
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May 1st basecamp
The weather pattern has finally changed. Rather than sunny in the morning and clouding up in the afternoon, we now have the reverse. The daily snowfall has also ceased. What does all this mean? The jet stream Is pounding the top of our mountain. Plumes can be seen blowing off of High ridges and peaks. Pumori and Nuptse have snow streamers a kilometer long crowing their summits. Fortunately we are snugly sitting it out in the realitive comfort of base camp. Its not very breezy here yet because there in no evening cloud cover it cools down quickly when the sun sets behind Pumori. Everyone scrambles for their down or endures shivering throughout dinner. Dozer has been fighting a cold and others dealing with tummy troubles so it is fortunate that this time was planned for recuperation. Thats certainly what weve been doing. It looks like we will soon be well enough to give our second acclimatization push a try in a few more days. The group, one of the strongest Ive had the pleasure to climb with, is staying active and is in great spirits. All are eager to resume climbing when the winds aloft calm down, as am I. Join us tomorrow as we lean about our oxygen systems. To The Top, Vern Tejas |
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April 30- Everest BC
Meanwhile we're beginning to make some preparations for our return to the higher reaches of the mountain. The plan is to leave early next week and spend some nights in CI, CII and CIII. Then it will be back down to the lower valley to rest and restore some weight and strength. Everyone is looking forward to that trip but it is still a while off. The weather has been spectacular the last couple of nights and people have been thoroughly enjoying it. This evening there is no need for a headlamp as the skies are perfectly clear with a waxing moon nearing full. The first potential summitters were thinking of around the 6th or 7th but forecasts are looking as though there may be jet stream winds during that period. It's always interesting for everyone in camp to watch the progress of the first potential teams to the top. We've been all catching up on showers, laundry, etc. A couple of days ago we had a "straight eye for the straight guy" session with Justin. We finally pulled out a new set of clothes and spent some time trimming up his beard. He's looking a little less like his dogs he misses so much!!! Mills wishes her mother a very wonderful birthday today! All our best, Dave and the team |
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Cybercast 4/29
After breakfast Vern led the traditional Al Hanna morning walk (started when Al Hanna was on this expedition and continued to this day) down to the chin-up rock. I understand the chin-up rock has shifted a bit, making chin-ups more difficult than ever. As if chin-ups weren't hard enough at this elevation. Meanwhile, Ellie took Mingma Tsering and Ang Chotar down to the medical clinic to get checked out for flu symptoms. Dr. Luann Freer decided amoxicillin was the drug of choice to battle the nasty bugs. By evening Mingma was out dancing and singing on top of a large rock, so he must be starting to feel better already. After lunch Britton, Mills, Scott, and Holt set up the board for their afternoon game of Mountain Monopoly, and they're still at it as the afternoon snow flurries begin. How much did they say it cost to land on the Mt. Everest square? So as the smells of popcorn waft from Ong Chu's cooking tent, this is Ellie signing off for the team at Everest Base Camp. |
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April 28th Base camp
Vern Tejas reporting form base camp below Mt. Everest. It was !4.3 degrees in my tent last night and there is a skiff of fresh snow on the ground. Speaking of fresh snow, this season has really impressed me with all the new white stuff. There have only been two days when we have not gotten a fresh supply of flakes. Theres a lot of moisture blowing up from India and we can only wonder what that might mean once we climb to the higher elevations. The team is growing stronger daily. Almost all climbers took a strenuous hike and came back tired but not wasted&&.a good sign that we are adapting. Little health problems that we saw earlier are going away and the general feeling around camp is one of cautious optimism. Many of us have volunteered to take part in the several science experiments that are being conducted this season in base camp. Evidently, BC is a unique laboratory in which to gather high altitude physiological data, so stay tuned for results. Killer games of Mountain Monopoly have been keeping the troops entertained during our days here. The lead seems to rotate around yet Metro has come in second several times. And our nights are filled with intellectual discussions(remember we have half the oxygen that you do here) ranging from gun control to voluntary sterilization of segments of the population. As you can see there is rarely a dull moment. Case in point, Junior led us in our first Chicken Dance last night. This is in hopes that we all can shake it on the summit and perform the highest Chicken Dance on the planet. We are thinking of you all, Namaste |
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April 27- Everest BC
So what else? Today the leaders of the various teams had a meeting regarding the continuing fixing of the route. As is stands the route is fixed with line from CII to CIII and above. The fixed line currently ends at the base of the Yellow Band- the famous band of rock to be crossed en route from CIII to CIV. Tomorrow many teams, including ours, will be sending Sherpa up to fix the route above starting on Thursday. If there is good weather the route may be fixed all the way to CIV by the end of the day Thursday. Some teams are in position to make a preliminary summit attempt after a week or so. It may be a relatively early first summit if these teams are lucky enough to be successful. It is an extremely cold time to be going for the summit in very early May but many of these teams are geared to do that for various reasons. The snow just started falling today (5 p.m.). It was the nicest day in the past 5 or 6 so we were quite grateful for that. The other days we have had significant snowfall throughout the day rather than the typical late afternoon snow showers. Seems as though we may be back to that typical pattern for a bit. It is a welcome return! Well rest assured out there that this team is having fun even in the down time. There's strength, stamina and a good dose of life running through the veins of this crew. We're enjoying our time together. All the best from Everest BC. Tashi Delek, Dave |
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April 26- Everest BC (Evening)
Rest and Recuperation, what a lovely feeling in all this thick oxygen. The whole team is enjoying being down off the mountain as we relax and let our bodies recover from the insult of hypoxia. The stress of the last week has encouraged our systems to adapt the high mountain environment. By now resting, we allow ourselves to prepare for our next foray into the rarified atmosphere of the high Himalaya. Stress and recovery is the name of the game and we shall play it for the next few weeks in preparation for our final push. Stand by. To pass the time our party made excellent use stone shower house our Sherpa built for us. That was followed by day long epic game of Mountain Monopoly. Sailor-boy won but just barely with all the wheeling and dealing of Metro and Pug. Sunshine withdrew to focus on email correspondence when things got to competitive . After all its just a game. Then guides and Sherpas blew of steam in a friendly snowball fight&&Oh did I mention the snow, weve got another six inches of it. Im dreaming of a white Mothers day. Ciao for now and Namaste, Vern Tejas |
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April 26- Everest BC
The descent through the icefall was uneventful- a nice thing for that descent to be. It was actually very pleasant with light snowfall and hazy skies. The Khumbu icefall can truly be an oven. Many area of the route are protected ice valleys where there is no wind and the reflection of the massive amounts of white surface area can produce temperatures near 100 degrees. Hazy skies and light snow are good! We all returned safely and many team members immediately jumped into the plush BC shower. Now its 7:30 am on Monday morning and Im just beginning to hear stirring from some of the tents. Im sure there will be smiles as people caught up with sleep last night. Sleep at the higher camps normally consists of much restlessness and wakefulness throughout each night. Catching up here in BC is essentially to recharging energy levels. Well its off to a day of laundry and relaxing for us here. We hope all of you have a wonderful day as well and we will speak soon. I am also sending along photos of our local staff that will hopefully be posted on the website soon. These guys are essential to our success and a wonderful addition to our days here with their continual laughter and smiles. All the best, Dave |
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April 24- Camp 2
Spindrift was flying everywhere when we awoke this morning. Thirtyfive knot winds drove the fine powder snow into any little hole of our defense filling boots, packs and tents alike. We postponed our morning acclimaization hike with hopes that the wind might drop. Nature cooperated, and we had a pleasant walk to the base of the famos Lhotse Face. Looking up this impressive wall we could spot our route up to camp 3, across the Yellow Band and traversing the Geneva Spur. We were able to glimpse nearly a month into our future. A future that we are steadily preparing ourselves for. This is one of the best acclimatized teams I had the pleasure to climb with. Spirits are high tonight as we contemplate dropping back to basecamp for needed recuperation and showers. Lakpa Rita coordinated loads for Camp 2 over the next couple of days as he returns to basecamp with us. We are keeping our fingers crossed that the icefall is friendly to us tomorrow. Please keep yours crossed too. Namaste, Vern and team 143 |
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April 23- CII
Here we are at CII taking a relaxing afternoon off. It's snowing lightly as it has been since we arrived. Every now and then the sun shines through the clouds and rapidly escalates the temp. Our plan for tomorrow is to head up towards CIII on the Lhotse face. The route entails going up and over the bergshrund that marks the start of the face. It will be a relatively short day for us. Then back for another night sleeping at CII. Early on Sunday morning we'll break camp and head back to BC. The group is in high spirits and feeling good at this high altitude. We're definitely looking forward to showers, laundry and email. So it is a very mellow day here at CII. Our thoughts are often with all of you at home- especially on these slower days. All the best from CII- Dave |
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April 22- CII
Today we moved the entire team up the Western Cwm to Camp 2 at 6,522meters - 21,430 feet. It took us a little over 5 hours to make the journey. The morning started out clear but by the time we arrived it was snowing steadily. Upon arrival we moved into the dining tent for a bowl of warm noddle soup. The team members located their sleeping tents and moved into their new homes for the next three days. We will spend the next few days exploring the route to Camp 3. We will make our trip to Camp 3 on our next visit to Camp 2. It is cold and dinner is being served so good night. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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April 21- CI (Evening)
We had a very long breakfast. And that's just what we needed. Yesterday's climb up the Khumbu icefall left us a little tuckered out. Therefore a leisurely carboload of French toast and bacon was welcomed. Then it was off to get acclimatized on a senic trek up the Western Cwm. Our reward was a grand view of the big "E". Everest was beautifully and somewhat intimidatingly floating above us. So big. For lunch Metro called out for an extra large double cheese and pepperoni pizza. He actualy had them going until he gave them the address and they realized that Mt.Everest wasn't in their delivery area. We sure were looking forward to that pizza too. Isn't technology fun? Namaste, Vern |
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April 21- CI (Morning)
Everybody is in awe at the scale of the Cwm- these peaks surrounding us are immense and breathtaking. From the backdoors of our tents we can look back to the head of the Khumbu valley and see Pumori , Lingtren, and in the distance the huge face of Gyachung Kang. This afternoon we'll walk up towards CII for a short acclimatization hike. Here's a shot of the crew who made it up last night past the critical moment of the sun dipping below the ridgeline! All the best, Dave and the team |
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April 19- Everest BC
Windy and blowing snow was the way we went to sleep last night. We woke to find the Icefall repaired and loads on the move. We decided today to try and get a look up the Icefall and beyond. Most of us took a morning walk towards Pumori. Unfortunately the clouds came down over the mountains and our view was obscured. This afternoon we packed our bags for the next four days. We will make our first trip up to Camps 1 and 2. This will be the first trip through icefall for the team. We will be waking up at 3AM for breakfast and then we hope to start up by 4:30 AM so that we can reach Camp 1 at the top of the icefall before midday. The journey will take us six to eight hours and we will climb about 2,000 feet. Cole Williams 1st Grade class is following the expedition cybercast so we will try to answer a question they have asked every few days. They asked why Everest has two elevations. The answer is simply the mountain is growing taller every year. When it was first measured it was measured at a height of 29,028 feet but recently with more accurate equipment the top of Mount Everest was measured at a height of 29,035 feet an increase in height of 7 feet. The next cybercast will be from Camp 1. Off to sleep Good Night, Tashi Delek: Jim Williams |
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April 18 basecamp
The Icefall doctors have been very busy lately. They are the Sherpas responsible for maintaining a useable route through the Kumbu Icefall. And as the name Icefall would suggest the ice does indeed move and sometimes in very dramatic ways. A hundred meters of the route disappeared when a Serac collapsed in the night. Now the Doctors are repairing the damage and our team is resting up for our upcoming push to acclimatize above basecamp. There are many diversions here to relax our minds with as we wait. Day treks, reading, music and DVDs help us pass the time. Our Sherpa prefer cards and challenging the Slack Line. The Slack Line is a wonderfully simple device consisting a low stretch rope tied between two large boulders. Its like a Tight Rope only its slack. The trick is to walk across it without falling off. Thiis is, of course very difficult to do and provides hours of entertainment as it teaches patience, coordination and balance. Good fun is had by all. The team is ready to go&..all psyched to actually start the climb. However one more day of adapting to the thin air will do them good, so its off on one last acclimatization hike tomorrow before the real test begins. Until then , please keep us in your thoughts as you are in ours. Namaste, Vern |
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April 17- Everest BC
After a short hike this morning we returned for showers and pizza followed by an afternoon of short but steep ice climbing. We had quite a bit of fun testing our skills at over 17,000 ft on thirty feet of steep ice. The NASA brain function testers cornered those who did not go ice climbing. I for one was asked to look at a page with twenty words on it for a minute and a half and then recite as many of the words as I could remember. Lets just say I am glad I was not going grocery shopping or we all might be hungry tonight for dinner. Our cook Gopal who has been cooking for the trekking team returned to assume the duties of cooking for our Sherpas. This will allow the Camp 2 cook to move to Camp 2 as soon as the route through the icefall is reestablished. It is snowing now here at Base Camp so we are hoping to wake up in the morning to another glorious morning. If the icefall route is tomorrow reestablished we will leave for our first trip to Camp 1 and 2 in three days or so. Have a nice weekend. PS: We just received word of the passing of Fernando Grajales a long time friend and climber from Aconcagua in Argentina. Alpine Ascents has worked with Fernando from many years. From all of us here at Everest Base Camp our hearts are with you Fernando Grajales and family. The mountains are our home may you rest in peace. Thank you for your friendship and encouragement over the years it has meant a lot to all who have met and worked with you. Your inspiration is with us now. Tashi Delek, Jim Williams |
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April 16- Everest BC
Today is Friday the 16th. Our morning began a bit breezy here in BC. There were some strong gusts throughout the night and this morning we thought our venture into the icefall may have been put off. After breakfast though the winds had died a bit and we spent the rest of the morning climbing about 1/3 of the way to Camp I. It became downright hot in the late morning. In fact, the skies stayed clear throughout the late afternoon, a first for us here. It felt good to get our bodies moving after being in BC for nearly a full week. Everyone had the opportunity to cross some ladders and ascend some steeper sections of ice. Tomorrow our Sherpa crew will again take loads to CII in order to have it well stocked for the expedition. The dining and cook tent will be brought up and pitched. Ang Tsering and Karsang, our two cooks for CII, will be leaving tomorrow to begin their 5 or 6 week stint at CII. We are also sending two Sherpa up to CII to begin fixing line on the portion of the route between CII and CIII. Three teams here are ready to start making the push to establish CIII and so we are contributing some gear and the help of two of our strongest Sherpa. The fixing of rope on the mountain between CI and the summit is a group effort with each team (hopefully) contributing gear and manpower to make it happen. The group was very strong today in the icefall and were feeling good about the move up when it happens. I can hear everyone laughing in the dining tent under clear skies tonight. The hum of generators from other camps is also in the background while our cook Ong Chhu and his helpers are laughing and carrying on in the cooking tent. As I sit in the communications tent with just the light of the computer screen I feel as if Im eavesdropping on all these separate little worlds in BC. We send our best to you all. Namaste, Dave |
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April 15- Everest BC
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