2012 Guiding Team (Click Name for Bio)
Lead Guide, Sirdar
Base Camp Manager
Base Camp Cook
2012 Climbing Team (Click Name for Bio)
LAURENCE CLARK - South Col Climber
Laurence is from the UK and has been climbing with AAI since 2008. He has a long history of hiking, skiing and climbing at lower altitudes and developed an interest in high altitude climbing when he successfully summited Kilimanjaro in 2007. After summiting Denali in 2009 he went on to summit Cho Oyu in 2011. He has already visited Everest Base Camp as part of a trek in 2008 and was struck by the majesty and beauty of the area, only enhancing his ambition to climb to the summit of Everest. As part of the 2012 Everest trip he is raising funds for a UK based charity, the Anthony Nolan Trust, which is involved with Leukaemia Research and Bone Marrow Transplants. Any donations are very welcome - see www.justgiving.com/laurence-clark-everest.
MICHAEL GIRARD - South Col Climber
Michael works as an emergency physician near Denver, Colorado. His most recent significant climb was Cho-Oyu in 2009.
MARC HESTER - South Col Climber
Home: Melbourne, Australia
Investment Analyst with Greencape Capital, 33 years old. Started climbing with Alpine Ascents in 2008 on Mt Shuksan and and have since done Denali, Mt Brewster, Mt Aspiring and Mt Kilimanjaro.
JIM MATTER - South Col Climber
In 2006 I re-read some of Hemingway's works and was inspired to live my life to its fullest. I started by running with the bulls in Pamplona followed by a climb of Mt Kilimanjaro later that year. That first climb introduced me to new culture experiences, new friends and the physical and mental challenges associated with climbing. Many mountains later, I have climbed 6 of the 7 summits, plus Mt Blanc and Mt Kosciuszko. My most recent climb was Cho Oyu which I summited last fall.
STEVE RICHARDS - Camp II Climber
Steve Richards: married 35 years to my wife Kathy, four great kids and one great son-in-law. This climb is dedicated to the newest member of our family, my granddaughter, Alexis Eve born January 11, 2012. A semi-retired accountant I began climbing about six years ago and just kept going. I have climbed Shasta, Hood, Rainier, Denali, Whitney and the Grand Teton. I am also a veteran of a couple of Alpine Ascents expeditions: Aconcagua, coincidentally led by Garrett Madison and the Ecuadoran Volcanos, Cotopaxi, Antisana, and Chimborazo, coincidentally led by Jose Luis Peralvo. I am looking forward to once again spending time on a mountain with both of these great gents.
MARK SHUTTLEWORTH - South Col + Lhotse Climber
Home: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Married to Jenny with two daughters, my climbing partner Leanna and my younger daughter Kelly. I am a CFO based for the last 8 years in the Middle East working for regional telecom companies. Prior to that, I specialised in Business recovery/ turnaround across Europe.
My elder daughter is solely responsible for me restarting exercising, completing 6 of the seven summits and eventually leading to this attempt of Everest. So why are we "throwing in" an attempt on Lhotse at the same time? - Again an idea from Leanna - do I regret agreeing to try it? - No... but ask me again in late May
LEANNA SHUTTLEWORTH - South Col + Lhotse Climber
Home: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
I'm an 18 year old student currently on a gap year to try tp complete the Seven Summits, Everest being the last of these for me (although I may have to go over to Carstenz at some point, as I've done Kosciuszko instead). Starting in September I have a place at university to study veterinary back in the UK, where I'm originally from. My dad and I have been climbing together now for almost four years. The climbing bug first set in age 14 on a school trip to Everest base camp, it wasn't long afterwards that I pursuaded my dad to join me on a trip to Kilimanjaro. One Seven Summits book later and the die was cast.
It'll be a family affair to Everest base camp, with my mum and sister joining us that far. My dad and I will also be attempting Lhotse after Everest... Crazy, perhaps, but a wonderful challenge and a second stunning summit attempt in the bargain. Thus far we've summited Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali, Aconcagua and Vinson, along with rock and ice climbing in Scotland, the Alps and the UAE.
CHRIS SOBECKI - South Col Climber
Chris Sobecki (age 53) lives in New York and is married with 3 children. After hiking and camping with his son, Rob, through most of Rob's childhood, Chris and Rob began their climbing career about 7 years ago. After spending time in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, they have steadily increased the challenges they have taken on. Beginning with a 6-day climbing course which culminated with a summit of Mt. Baker in Washington State, they have since climbed and summited Kilimanjaro (Tanzania, Africa), Mt Rainier (Washington State), Cotopaxi (Equador), Denali (Alaska) and Aconcagua (Argentina).
ROB SOBECKI - South Col Climber
Rob Sobecki (age 22) will be a Senior at Olin College (Boston) next Fall where he will complete his Bachelor in Mechanical Engineering. After hiking and camping with his dad, Chris, through most of his childhood, Chris and Rob began their climbing career about 7 years ago. After spending time in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, they have steadily increased the challenges they have taken on. Beginning with a 6-day climbing course which culminated with a summit of Mt. Baker in Washington State, they have since climbed and summited Kilimanjaro (Tanzania, Africa), Mt Rainier (Washington State), Cotopaxi (Equador), Denali (Alaska) and Aconcagua (Argentina).
LAKPA RITA SHERPA
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Lakpa's climbing and guiding achievements are significant, with 15 summits of Mt. Everest on over 21 expeditions (a record 213 climbers on the summit under his leadership) seven guided summits of Cho-Oyu and numerous other peaks in Nepal. He also been our high camp manager and guide on Aconcagua and Denali and has guided numerous peaks in the Cascades including Mount Baker and Rainier. Currently, Lakpa and his family reside in Seattle. He is a guide, leader and friend of the highest quality. Lakpa summited Mount Vinson twice as a leader of our 2003-2004 Vinson Team. He also is known as "The Best Sirdar in the Khumbu", and has been working with us for the past sixteen years. His legendary strength is veiled by his charm and humility. As Sirdar (Sherpa captain) he directs and organizes our team of Sherpa for every Himalayan expedition. Possessing unparalleled expertise in the mountains, Lakpa is one of the only Sherpa working as a full-time Mountain Guide around the world. In February 2009, Lakpa became the first Sherpa, and first Nepali to climb the Seven Summits. Here he is on the summit of Kilimanjaro. Most recently Lakpa guided our successful 2011 Cho-Oyu Team.
[ Article about Lakpa]
Everest 15 summits over 21 expeditions.
Cho-Oyu 11 summits
Shishapangma 1 summit
Pumori 1 summit
Elbrus 1 summit
Baruntse 2 summit
Aconcagua 26 summits
Vinson 2 summits
Kilimanjaro 1 summit
Denali 2 summits
Guide on K2 and Broad Peak, Annapurna South Face, Manaslu, Dhaulagri and Maklu.
Rainier 30 summits.
First Sherpa to climb the seven summits.
Wilderness First Responder
JOSE LUIS PERALVO
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
Jose Luis has been a mainstay of our South America guiding staff for more than a decade, and is one of the most respected guides around. He is an International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA- UIAGM) fully certified guide. Jose was also the Director of the Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association (ASEGUIM) Mountain Guide and Rescue School. 17 Years guiding for Alpine Ascents International and countless climbs in the Andes of Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, French and Swiss Alps and Dolomites in Italy. Jose´s delightful manner makes him one of our most well-loved guides. He was the second Ecuadorian to summit Mount Everest as a part of our successful 2002 expedition and summited for the second and third time as a member of our 2005 and 2008 guide team! Jose Luis currently leads our Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador Expeditions.
Nepal: Everest: South Col Route. 3 ascents (2002, 2005 and 2008).
Ecuador: Cotopaxi : 300+ ascents. Outer cráter circuit. Inner ring circuit. Spanish-Ecuadorian Route.
Chimborazo: Traverse (Integral). Sun Ridge (Arista del Sol-Northeast Ridge). Thielmann Glacier Direct Route.
Altar: Obispo – North Face Route (attemht).
Antizana: Pico Sur – Figure S Route.
Iliniza Sur: La Rampa Route. Southeast Ridge Route. East Ridge Route (Celso Zuquillo Route).
Peru: Artesonraju: Southeast Face.
Alpamayo: Ferrari Route.
Bolivia: Ancohuma Traverse.
Illampu – Pico Schulze Traverse
Yacuma Needle Goulotte Direct Route
Pico Schulze: Carahullos’ Route (North Ridge-new route).
Huayna Illampu Subsidiary Peak: Northwest Ridge.
Pequeño Alpamayo: Directisima Southeast Face Route.
Piramide Blanca: Southwest Face/West Ridge Route.
Huayna Potosi: Old Glacier Variant
Alpes Franceses: Aiguille Verte: Couloir Couturier.
Triangle Mont Blanc du Tacul: Via Contamine-Negri
Tour Ronde: Couloir Gervasutti.
Mont Blanc Traverse.
Trad Climbs (Multipitch):
Bolivia - Quimza Cruz: Tenazas: Awicha TD 6a. Cuernos del Diablo: Classic TD 6a+, Off-With Direct TD+ 6b+. Jardin Porotos: Left Hand Wall 6a. Akapana 6a.
Italy – Dolomites: Rosengarten Group, Vajolet Towers, Winkler Tower.
Ecuador – Cojitambo: Capac-Ñan 6b. Quinceañera 6a+
Sport Rock Climbs: Arco, Lago di Garda, Dolomites (Italy). Frankenjura (Germany). Les Gaillands Chamonix (France). Aranjuez, Viscachas (Bolivia). Sigsipamba, Santa Clara, Cuyuja, Cojitambo, Guagua Pichincha, Acantilado San Juan (Ecuador).
International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations IFMGA-UIAGM Guide
Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association ASEGUIM Guide-Instructor
Wilderness First Responder.
Leave No Trace Master Educator
Mountain Guiding Course. Ecole Nationale de Ski et Alpinisme ENSA. Chamonix-Mont Blanc. France.
Rock Climbing Course. Deutsche Alpenverein DAV Sektion Oberland. Munich-Germany.
Architect . Central University of Quito-Ecuador.
EXPEDITION MANAGER, GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNT RAINIER
Garrett has been a professional mountain guide since 1999 and since then has guided Denali, Rainier, Mexico Volcanos, Ecuador Volcanos, high peaks in Peru, and the stone Sentinel of South America, Aconcagua. He was a leader and summiter on our successful 2009-2011 Mount Everest expeditions. In 2011, as Expedition Leader Garrett became the first person to successfully guide a client to the top of two 8000 meter peaksin less than 24 hours as a part of our Everest/Lhotse Expedition, this was the first expedition ever to achieve the Everest & Lhotse combination (Expedition members Garrett Madison, Michael Horst, & climber Tom Halliday are currently the only climbers ever to have achieved two 8000 meter summits in less than 24 hours). Garrett has also lived and traveled extensively in Europe, skiing and climbing in the Alps. Climbing Kilimanjaro or Vinson, Garrett is at home in the mountain environment, & appreciates the priviledge of being able to climb. Garrett has been on several other expeditions to the Himalaya such as Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu. Spending half his year in the office balancing his job as Expedition Manager for Alpine Ascents as well as guiding a fair amount provides an excellent opportunity to constantly develop and perfect one of his favorite aspects related to climbing, training! Garrett is busy in the summer months devoting much of his time to working in the field with our Rainier program.
Significant Guided Ascents
4 ascents of Mt. Everest, (2006, 2009 - 2011)
1 ascent of Mt. Lhotse, Nepal
160 ascents of Mt. Rainier
3 expeditions to Denali
8 expeditions to Aconcagua
5 expedition to Mt. Vinson
2 expedition to Kilimanjaro
1 expedition to Ecuador’s Volcanoes (Cayambe & Cotopaxi)
1 expedition to Peru’s Cordillera Blanca
5 expeditions to Mexico’s Orizaba
1 expedition to Cho Oyu (Tibet)
1 expedition to Ama Dablam (Nepal)
6 ascents of Mont Blanc
Wilderness First Responder
Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
A talented climber and guide, Eric leads many of our mountaineering courses in the Cascades. He has been climbing for 16 years, and has guided trips for 10 years. Eric has vast experience in the Cascades, Rockies and Andes ranges, with expeditions to Alaska, Canada, Antarctica, Nepal, Tibet, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. Argentine and Chilean Patagonia has been a recent focus, with an ascent of Fitzroy, and exploration on the Southern Patagonian Icecap. His background covers technical ice, rock, and high altitude. Over the last 12 years, he has developed climbing curriculums for local organizations. Eric has guided for us in the Cascades, on Denali, Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu and Aconcagua for the past 8 years. Most recently Eric guided for us on Mt. Rainier, Kilimanjaro and Denali in 2008. Other passions include ski mountaineering, ocean sailing, and winemaking. Eric has recently opened a small, boutique winery on Whidbey Island, near to Seattle. See www.swedehillcellars.com for more information.
Denali (9 guided, 2 personal)
Kilimanjaro (10+ guided)
Aconcagua (6 guided, 1 personal)
Vinson (5 guided)
Shinn (1 guided)
Fitzroy (2 personal)
Poincenot (2 personal)
Huascuran Sur (2 Personal)
Alpamayo (1 personal)
Chopicalqui (1 personal)
Huandoy Este (1 personal)
Huanya Potosi (1 personal)
Mooses Tooth (2 personal)
Mt Kenya (1 personal)
Mt Slesse (2 personal)
Rainer (25+ guided, 6 routes, winter)
Baker (40+ guided, winter, ski)
Glacier Peak (3 personal)
Adams (2 personal)
Shasta (winter, ski)
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
EVEREST BASE CAMP MANAGER
EVEREST BASE CAMP COOK
Jennifer will be completing her Masters degree in environmental science this year at the Ohio State University. Her research focuses on reducing the risk of catastrophic wildfires in fire-prone areas of the United States, and she has been certified as a wildland firefighter and EMT-B. Upon completing her research, she is planning to spend a year living and climbing in Spain, before returning to the world of research. In the future, she plans to turn the focus of her research to the issues of water management under a changing climate, particularly as it relates to glacial melt in the Himalayas. Her passion for environmental issues has also earned her a position as the resident director for environmental science-based study abroad trips. Jennifer will be leading her second trip to Australia in the summer of 2012 to teach undergraduate college students about the unique and threatened ecosystems of the country, such as the Great Barrier Reef.
Jennifer jumped at the chance to support a climbing team as cook at Everest basecamp and put her cooking skills to good use. She enjoys cooking, and especially loves cooking for other people. She enjoys being creative with dishes and frequently puts her own spin on anything from hand rolled sushi to apple pie. She has experience cooking for groups of climbers at basecamp on Mount Rainier, and looks forward to pushing these skills to the next level at Everest Basecamp. She will do her best to accommodate clients’ dietary needs and preferences, and will happily provide a hot drink, friendly face, and listening ear when they stop by the cook tent.