Why Climb Everest With Alpine Ascents?
Our Reputation & History on Everest
We have been guiding Everest since 1992. In 2013, our twelfth straight summit year, 39 climbers in two teams reached the summit of Everest (228 climbers in the past 12 years) and all 7 of our Lhotse traverse team members also summited.
Our reputation for leading successful climbs on Mt. Everest is unsurpassed. Of the few thousand people to stand atop Everest, well over 250 of them have been with an Alpine Ascents expedition. With a 20 + year history of summit success we’ve grown with the mountain, honing our logistics, technologies and adapting to maintain our mantra of providing quality, safe and successful expeditions. (Learn about Everest from Outside Magazine: 2012 Outside Magazine Article on Everest Guiding)
We look to provide high quality at every leg of the journey, and work hard to improve every season. Whether this means experienced guides, veteran sherpa, cook staff and menu plans, dining tent, Oxygen amounts, base camp facilities or climber to guide ratios, we review every detail with great care. 2013 exemplifies our expertise and success and we encourage you to compare us ( and 2013 statistics) to other guide services.
Team Philosophy and Safety
Our history tells the story, as we always try to err on the conservative side when making decisions, The foundation of our goal, to be as safe as possible is based on our team philosophy. Groups of climbers, guide and Sherpa working together to make decisions and assist when needed are key to proper risk prevention. Whether adjusting Oxygen tanks, looking for a lost glove or fixing broken sunglasses, the support of group can turn these potential on mountain nightmares into manageable difficulties. We never felt one person being solely linked to another for all their support, gave one the best chances of a safe and successful expeditions. In fact, we see many groups who strayed from this idea, returning the concept of more supported expeditions.
The numbers speak for themselves, with over twenty years of success, even when other groups were unable to summit. For more about success on Everest see : "Why Climb With a Professional Mountain Guide".
"Just wanted to let you know that I had a fabulous time on Everest and the trip could not have been better. The guides were all amazing climbers, teachers, and friends. I felt positive about the climb from beginning to end, and I thank you and everyone at Alpine Ascents for being a part of that. I also thank you for putting together such a competent and skilled team of guides and Sherpa, that helped me get to the top. Each day and each step was important, and I will take the memories with me forever. Many thanks and all the best." -Lori S, Everest
Logistics That Make A Difference
Professional Mountain Guides: With Alpine Ascents International, you will climb with professional guides leading the team. Our guides are experienced Everest and Himalayan veterans. This, combined with our Sherpa support, provides you with the leadership and guidance to give you the best chance of reaching the top.
Sherpa staff: The most experienced climbing Sherpa on the mountain (most with between 10 and 17 summits) these climbing Sherpa are able to move our gear and supplies up and down the mountain so you don't have too. They are also great friends and comrades on the mountain.
Group Size: Alpine Ascents is committed to smaller team sizes. Expeditions with 30 to 50 people are very hard to manage and offer little assistance to the climber. Some of the non-guided base camps can have 40 climbers.
Oxygen: Alpine Ascents provides more oxygen than any other guide service. Our systems are the lightest systems available. They weigh only 7 lbs. compared to the 16 + pounds used by some companies.
One to One Sherpa/Climber Ratio on Summit Day: For a group size of 10 we usually have 16 Sherpa carrying loads on the mountain. On summit day a Sherpa will be assigned to carry extra oxygen for you the entire day.
You are the climbing team. Alpine Ascents keeps our base camp manageable and well supported, and does not use base camp to support/house self-guided a or partially guided teams. Dining tents, communication tents and showers have been a hallmark of our legendary base camp.
Rest day at high camp: Alpine Ascents takes a rest day at high camp on the South Col, breathing supplemental oxygen and rebuilding our strength before summit day. Other companies climb from Camp III to the South Col (an exhausting day), reaching high camp late in the afternoon and a few hours later leave for the summit. We believe our extra day greatly increases summit success as well as reduces the likelihood of extreme exhaustion and chance of an accident. A recent study published in the British Medical Journal states that 80% of the deaths on Everest happen on summit day or shortly thereafter. Marked fatigue, late summit times, and the tendency to fall behind companions are common among non-survivors.
Meals on the Mountain: We prepare all your meals in every camp and throughout the entire trip. Many companies require you to cook at different camps on the mountain. This is a laborious task that often requires several hours of work to melt snow and cook meals. (See Base Camp for more details)
Medical Facilities: We work with the Everest Base Camp Medical Center. For the last several years we have contracted with the Medical Center to provide you free visits to their doctors. In addition to the medical facility all of our guides are Certified Wilderness First Responders and carry extensive medical kits to provide medical care on the mountain.
Weather Forecasts: We contract with a private company that transmits the latest forecasts designed specifically for Everest. These forecasts allow us to choose the best summit days with much better accuracy and increase summit success and safety.
Communications: We have the latest in satellite communications. Our dedicated communication center allows you to send emails and make phone calls to family, friends and for your business. 3G cell phones can now be used at base camp for cell phone and smart phone communication. We also have an extensive recharging facility that allows you to recharge your personal electronic devices. In 2013 we provided wi-fi service at base camp.
Base Camp: Alpine Ascents has the best equipped Base Camp on Everest. Heated dining tents, hot shower, personal sleeping tents and clean bathrooms are all part of making your life in BC comfortable. There is always food and drinks available between the three great meals our cooks will provide you. We have a diverse menu designed by an American chef, and much of our food is brought from the US including specialty items such as smoked salmon and imported cheeses. This greatly helps you to consume the large amount of calories needed to climb Everest and make you feel at home. Our attention to food and its preparation on Everest and mountains around the world have led to very few gastrointestinal issues for our team members.
Base Camp Manager: We also have a Full-Time Base camp manager to assist you with any needs that you may have. In 2012 and 2013 we had a western cook in addition to our Sherpa cook team.
Experience required for expedition members: We are looking for experienced climbers, for whom Everest is the next logical step in their climbing careers. Our team will be in top physical condition and ready to meet the extreme challenges Everest presents. It is important that your resume includes previous high altitude climbs and strong mountaineering skills. Climbs like Denali, Cho-Oyu, Aconcagua and Vinson are good prerequisites to attempt Everest. It is important that a team member be able to work well with others and be willing to commit to a group effort which will last for several weeks. This team effort has proved to increase summit success and make for a more enjoyable climb. You will be exposed to a completely different culture during the expedition and as a member it is your responsibility to treat the people and their environment with respect. This ability is as important as your climbing skills.
Base Camp Support Trek
We also offer a support trek to Everest Base Camp for team member's family and friends. This allows family and friends the opportunity to participate in your trek to Everest Base Bamp.
Alpine Ascents remains on the cutting edge of multimedia cybercast technology. For over the past fifteen years, we have webcast many of our expeditions from remote mountains around the world. Our Mt. Everest expeditions have been the highlight of these webcasts every year. Family, friends, and thousands from the general public can follow the team on their trek from Kathmandu to Base Camp. Once there, we establish a complete communications tent where we track the team's progress up the mountain and on to the summit. We also provide access to email and communications for team members.
There are many reasons to choose a particular guide service, but there are five main areas of concern that you should look at carefully:
- Safety Record
- Guides (Professional International Mountain Guides and Sherpa Staff)
- Logistics in-country
- Pre-Trip Planning
- Success Rate
Our History on Everest
Our reputation for leading successful climbs on Mt. Everest is unsurpassed. Of the few thousand people to stand atop Everest, over 200 of them have been with an Alpine Ascents expedition for a total of 266 summits. In 2013, our twelfth straight summit year, 39 climbers on two teams reached the summit of Everest (228 summits in the past 12 years) and all 7 of our Lhotse traverse team members also summited. We had 100% success of climbers who reached high camp making the summit.
The Early Years
During our ‘92 expedition twelve people summitted and in ‘93 eight people stood with us on top of the world. Our 1994 expedition was marked by ten successful summiters, with Peter Athans attaining the summit for his fourth time, a record for Western climbers at the time.
The 1996 season was marred by storms and our team was at the forefront of numerous rescues and assisted many climbers from other expeditions who were in serious danger. Lead guides Todd Burleson and Peter Athans climbed to a height of 26,000ft to rescue climbers, for which they were both awarded the American Alpine Club's prestigious Sowles Award. Our team made a valiant second attempt at the summit, but harsh winds prevented a safe summit bid.
During 1997 - 1999 our guides were involved in high altitude research; our team worked in conjunction with the Boston Museum of Science in the installation of GPS equipment designed to measure the increasing height of Everest. Our 2000 Everest expedition was certainly one of our finest teams and was led by Vernon Tejas and Willi Prittie who continued our unsurpassed safety record.
The New Millenium
2002 speaks for itself with a total of 17 team members reaching the summit. 2003 met with similar success with 14 members reaching the summit. In 2004, 17 climbers reached the summit including 100% of the guided climbers who left base camp.
In 2005, during one of the most difficult poor weather years to date, 15 climbers reached the summit. In 2006 13 climbers reached the top on May 20 and our 2007 team saw 21 climbers reach the top. Our 2008 team saw our biggest success to date with 24 team members reaching the summit. 21 members of our 2009 expedition summited. 2010 saw 17 members reach the summit!
The Everest/Lhotse Traverse
In 2011, our tenth straight summit year, 16 team members reached the summit of Everest and 3 went on to climb Lhotse in less than 24 hours, for the first time in history: Expedition Leader and guide, Garrett Madison along with climber Tom Halliday and guide Michael Horst continued on to the summit of Lhotse after returning to the South Col. This marks the first time in history that Everest and Lhotse were climbed in less than 24 hours. In fact these three climbers are the first people ever to stand on top of 2 eight thousand meter peaks in a 24-hour period.
In 2012, our eleventh straight summit year, 14 team members reached the summit of Everest (189 climbers in the past 11 years) and 2 of our team members also summitted Lhotse. The events of 2012 re-affirm our commitment and belief in guiding Everest with small climber to guide ratios and highly supported expeditions.
By the Numbers
2013 - 39 Climbers to the summit (including 20 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Vern Tejas, Garrett Madison, Michael Horst, Ben Jones, Brien Sheedy.
7 climbers complete Everest/Lhotse traverse in less than 24 hours.
2012 - 14 Climbers to the summit (including 6 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Garrett Madison, Jose Luis Peralvo
2011 - 16 Climbers to the summit (including 6 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Garrett Madison, Michael Horst, Ben Jones.
4 climbers complete Everest/Lhotse traverse in less than 24 hours.
2010 - 17 Climbers to the summit (including 7 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Vern Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Garrett Madison, Michael Horst.
2009 - 21 Climbers to the summit (including 10 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Vern Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Garrett Madison, Michael Horst.
2008 - 24 Climbers to the summit (including 10 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Dave Morton, Vern Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Melissa Arnot.
2007 - 21 Climbers to the summit (including 10 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Dave Morton, Vern Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Amy Bullard.
2006 - 13 Climbers to the summit (including 5 Sherpa team members)
Guides: Vern Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Dave Morton.
2005 - 15 Climbers to the summit (including 7 Sherpa team members).
Guides: Willi Prittie, Vernon Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa Dave Morton and Jose Luis Peralvo.
2004 - 17 Climbers to the summit (including 8 Sherpa team members).
Guides: Vernon Tejas, Jim Williams, Lakpa Rita Sherpa and Dave Morton.
2003 - 14 Climbers to the summit (including 5 Sherpa team members).
Guides: Willi Prittie, Vernon Tejas, Luis Benitez and Lakpa Rita Sherpa.
50th Anniversary of the first ascent.
2002 - 17 Climbers to the summit (including 8 Sherpa team members).
Guides: Willi Prittie, Vernon Tejas, Mike Roberts and Jose Luis Peralvo.
2000 - Vernon Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, and Willi Prittie to South Summit (28,700ft) with team.
1999 - Pete Athans summited for the 6th time (most by any Westerner at the time).
1990-1998 Helped 39 climbers to the summit of Everest. Todd Burleson and Pete Athans receive Sowles award for Selfless Rescue (1996). Worked with Bradford Washburn in setting up laser altitude measurement systems on summit.
1990 Alpine Ascents International was established as one of the first Everest Guide services.