Overview
Nestled among the mountain giants K-2 and Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum is a Himalayan giant lodged in Pakistan's Karakorum range. G-II has long attracted climbers given the striking nature of the region while remaining one of the more technically accessible 8000 meter peaks. Gasherbrum is a similar climb in terms physical and skill levels as Tibet's Cho-Oyu. Located in the Concordia region of Pakistan, easily one of the most harsh, barren and striking mountain regions on earth. Some consider climbing (and traveling) in Pakistan much different then Nepal, given the inhospitable landscape of the Karakorum's. For many, this inhospitability has a unique attraction, challenging the climbers to contend with nature on all levels and justly rewarding those who venture there. Yet, Concordia is a bit of a paradox as its beauty belies the harsh terrain, giving one the sense of Shangri-La just over the next pass. In fact this region is the general area of the imaginary Shangri-La in Kipling's, The Man Who Would Be King.

This is a fully guided ascent, led by Western guides who climb the mountain with you. We are one of the few outfitters that offer this type of support (and in turn, high success and outstanding safety record). It should be noted that most outfitters merely offer a supported trek, where a single guide facilitates the climb but does not act as a guide during the ascent.

Travel in Pakistan
Pakistan is located in Asia between India and Afghanistan and is known for the warmth and hospitality of the people. Alpine Ascents will inform and assist each climber as to local customs and culture making this an unusually and enlightening travel experience. Gordon Janow, our Director of Programs first traveled to Pakistan in the 1980's and has an excellent working relationship with our in-country staff.

The Route
G-II is located at the top of the Baltoro Glacier (near Broad peak). Climbing G-2 involves crossing an ice fall and with two - three camps set before our summit bid. G-II is an excellent first 8000 meter peak for those who have successfully completed Denali or similar climbs.

History
The first ascent made by an Austrian team led by Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart on 8th July, 1956. They set up a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier. Camp I was set up at at 6,005m/19,700ft. It was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently, they lost a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few more camps, Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hansenpart set up a bivouac below 7,620m/25,000ft. In spite of frostbite suffered in the bivouac, the three reached he summit of Gasherbrum II on 8th July and came back without further incident.

PREREQUISITES

The climb on this peak is both on rock and ice. A high level of technical skill, physical fitness and acclimatization is required. The approach to basecamp is via Skardu and about a week trek on Baltoro Glacier.

Climbing Skill Level
Climbers should have successfully completed our 6-Day Training course or have equivalent skills and experience. Climbers should have completed a number of glaciated climbs including Denali or equivalent. This expedition requires valuable climbing skills, high altitude management techniques, and lessons for the use of oxygen systems and staying healthy at extreme altitudes. Climbers who have been successful on Denali or comparable peaks are typically prepared to join a guided ascent on Gasherbrum. Climbers must have solid cramponing skills, be able to rappel with a pack on and use ascenders on a fixed line. We place a high degree of responsibility on our climbers to prepare for the challenges of the ascent and the safety of their fellow team members. We encourage you to contact us with questions.

Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as excellent preparation for this climb; a basic mountaineering course is recommended. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 30lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.