Alpine Ascents Guide Staff
TODD BURLESON PRESIDENT AND FOUNDER OF ALPINE ASCENTS
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Director and founder of Alpine Ascents International, Todd has achieved unparalleled success in the mountain guiding industry and is one of the world's leading mountaineers. Todd spent most of his childhood in Alaska where his prowess and love for mountaineering were developed. In his eighteen years of guiding, he has led 8 expeditions to Mt. Everest, and has guided successful expeditions on every continent including all of the Seven Summits. In addition to instructing mountaineering courses, Todd has recently led successful expeditions to Mongolia, Rainier, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Everest and a number of first ascents in the arctic region of Greenland. Recently, Todd led our trip to Cho-Oyu and runs our school and Denali programs in Alaska. Todd joins many of our expeditions in a support role, overseeing logistics, climber development and ensuring a good time is had by all. He currently lives in Alaska where he is raising yaks, fishing and flying. Forever climbing great peaks around the world, Todd just climbed Aconcagua again as well as Australia's Kosciusko, completing his Seven Summits for the second time. In 1998 Todd was awarded the American Alpine Club's prestigious David J. Sowles award for his rescue efforts on Mt. Everest in 1996. Article on Kilimanjaro Interview with Todd
Significant Ascents
Everest (2 guided)
Island Peak (2 guided)
Mera Peak (2 guided)
Aconcagua (2 guided)
Greenland Peaks (3 guided)
Ama Dablam (1 guided)
Elbrus (5 guided)
Carstensz Pryramid (1 guided)
Peaks of Bolivia (1 guided)
Denali (3 guided)
Vinson (5 guided)
Mt. Baker (3 personal, 10 guided)
Rainier (5 guided)
Cotopaxi (2 guided)
Orizaba (1 guided)
Iztaccihuatl (1 guided)
Mongolia (2 guided)
Kilimanjaro (6 guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
WILLI PRITTIE
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Willi has been climbing, guiding and teaching for the past quarter century. Willi is considered one of the premier instructors in America and his students have had outstanding success in reaching personal goals. He has amassed hundreds of ascents (many while guiding) in Washington, Canada and Alaska. Willi is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide and in the past was responsible for training and certifying new guides, and accrediting guide services. Fluent in Spanish and well versed in South American culture he has an outstanding reputation for leading safe and successful trips. Needless to say, Willi has developed quite a following and has led climbs to Mt. Sajama, Cho-Oyu, Pumori, Island & Mera Peak and multiple guided ascents of Denali and in Mexico, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. Willi has led over thirty climbs to the summit of Aconcagua and is considered one of the world's leading climbing and logistical experts in the region. Willi also bears the responsibility of training new guides on climbs around the world. Willi led our 2000 Everest, Vinson, Aconcagua, Denali and Kilimanjaro expeditions. Willi is the consummate mountain guide and one of the most respected mountaineers in America. Most recently Willi led our 2002 & 2003 Mt. Everest expeditions that put 31 climbers on the summit!
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
LAKPA RITA SHERPA SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Lakpa's climbing and guiding achievements are significant, with 15 summits of Mt. Everest on over 21 expeditions (a record 213 climbers on the summit under his leadership) seven guided summits of Cho-Oyu and numerous other peaks in Nepal. He also been our high camp manager and guide on Aconcagua and Denali and has guided numerous peaks in the Cascades including Mount Baker and Rainier. Currently, Lakpa and his family reside in Seattle. He is a guide, leader and friend of the highest quality. Lakpa summited Mount Vinson twice as a leader of our 2003-2004 Vinson Team. He also is known as "The Best Sirdar in the Khumbu", and has been working with us for the past sixteen years. His legendary strength is veiled by his charm and humility. As Sirdar (Sherpa captain) he directs and organizes our team of Sherpa for every Himalayan expedition. Possessing unparalleled expertise in the mountains, Lakpa is one of the only Sherpa working as a full-time Mountain Guide around the world. In February 2009, Lakpa became the first Sherpa, and first Nepali to climb the Seven Summits. Here he is on the summit of Kilimanjaro. Most recently Lakpa guided our successful 2011 Cho-Oyu Team.
[ Article about Lakpa]
Significant Ascents
Everest 15 summits over 21 expeditions.
Cho-Oyu 11 summits
Shishapangma 1 summit
Pumori 1 summit
Elbrus 1 summit
Baruntse 2 summit
Aconcagua 26 summits
Vinson 2 summits
Kilimanjaro 1 summit
Denali 2 summits
Guide on K2 and Broad Peak, Annapurna South Face, Manaslu, Dhaulagri and Maklu.
Rainier 30 summits.
First Sherpa to climb the seven summits.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
VERNON TEJAS 
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Vern is known for Denali’s first solo winter ascent, the first solo of Mt. Vinson (Antarctica’s highest), first winter ascent of Mt. Logan (Canada’s highest) and as lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughan’s first ascent of Mt. Vaughan in remote Antarctica. In 2000, Vern was named one of Alaska’s top 50 athletes of the century by Sports Illustrated In addition to his fame in the extreme environments of Alaska, Greenland and Antarctica, Vernon’s success in guiding people to the summit is simply remarkable. Along with numerous highly guided expeditions, Vern is an nine time summiter of Everest and an avid adventure racer finishing 10th in 1999 and 13th in 2001 in the Eco-Challenge Race. Vern’s guided ascents are an extremely unique blend of his dynamic spirit, climbing expertise and guiding savvy, known throughout the guiding community. Vernon also led our expedition to Iran’s Mt. Damavand (one of the first American guided climbs). Recently Vern had outstanding success Mt. Vinson, Last Degree-South Pole, Denali , Elbrus (Europe’s highest) and has guided all of our Everest expeditions this century. Notable among his accomplishments on the Seven Summits, Vern climbed and guided all 7 in 134 days (the current speed record), he has climbed all 7 at least 9 times. He also completed all 7 twice within one year. With a guitar in hand and a smile on his face, Vernon treats everyone to the remarkable experience of life. [Click for Interview with Vern.]
Significant Ascents
Seven Summits (8 times)
Mt Everest (9 guided)
Cho-Oyu (1 guided)
Carstensz Pyramid (1 Guided, via the Jungle Route)
Mt Rainier (2 Guided)
Denali (40+ guided & personal - 1st solo winter ascent)
Mt. Vinson (27 guided & personal - 1st solo ascent, 10:20 Speed Ascent, 1st paraglider descent)
Greenland (Many guided & personal)
Kilimanjaro (14 guided, and 10:45 speed ascent)
Aconcagua (22 guided & 8:02 speed ascent)
Matterhorn (1 personal)
Damavand (1 guided)
Elbrus (19 guided, and two speed solos)
Mt. Hunter (first winter ascent)
Mt. Logan (first winter ascent)
Mt. Blanc (guided and personal)
Chimborazo
Kinabalu
Cotopaxi
Awards & Recognition
Life member American Alpine Club
Alaskan of the Year Governor’s Award
Sports Illustrated Top 50 Athletes of Century: Alaska
Eco-Challenge finisher 10th & 13th
NPS Denali Pro Pin for Rescue
“Cover Boy” Alaska Magazine
15 year member USHPA (Paragliding)
Producer "Strummit from Summit"
Host TV special "Food Network"
Guide and talent TV special "ESPN"
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder (6 times)
20 year member AK Mountain Rescue
JOSE LUIS PERALVOSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
Jose Luis has been a mainstay of our South America guiding staff for more than a decade, and is one of the most respected guides around. He is an International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA- UIAGM) fully certified guide. Jose was also the Director of the Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association (ASEGUIM) Mountain Guide and Rescue School. 17 Years guiding for Alpine Ascents International and countless climbs in the Andes of Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, French and Swiss Alps and Dolomites in Italy. Jose´s delightful manner makes him one of our most well-loved guides. He was the second Ecuadorian to summit Mount Everest as a part of our successful 2002 expedition and summited for the second and third time as a member of our 2005 and 2008 guide team! Jose Luis currently leads our Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador Expeditions.
Significant Ascents
Nepal: Everest: South Col Route. 3 ascents (2002, 2005 and 2008).
Ecuador: Cotopaxi : 300+ ascents. Outer cráter circuit. Inner ring circuit. Spanish-Ecuadorian Route.
Chimborazo: Traverse (Integral). Sun Ridge (Arista del Sol-Northeast Ridge). Thielmann Glacier Direct Route.
Altar: Obispo – North Face Route (attemht).
Antizana: Pico Sur – Figure S Route.
Iliniza Sur: La Rampa Route. Southeast Ridge Route. East Ridge Route (Celso Zuquillo Route).
Peru: Artesonraju: Southeast Face.
Alpamayo: Ferrari Route.
Huascaran.
Bolivia: Ancohuma Traverse.
Illampu – Pico Schulze Traverse
Yacuma Needle Goulotte Direct Route
Pico Schulze: Carahullos’ Route (North Ridge-new route).
Huayna Illampu Subsidiary Peak: Northwest Ridge.
Pequeño Alpamayo: Directisima Southeast Face Route.
Piramide Blanca: Southwest Face/West Ridge Route.
Illimani.
Huayna Potosi: Old Glacier Variant
Alpes Franceses: Aiguille Verte: Couloir Couturier.
Triangle Mont Blanc du Tacul: Via Contamine-Negri
Tour Ronde: Couloir Gervasutti.
Mont Blanc Traverse.
Trad Climbs (Multipitch):
Bolivia - Quimza Cruz: Tenazas: Awicha TD 6a. Cuernos del Diablo: Classic TD 6a+, Off-With Direct TD+ 6b+. Jardin Porotos: Left Hand Wall 6a. Akapana 6a.
Italy – Dolomites: Rosengarten Group, Vajolet Towers, Winkler Tower.
Ecuador – Cojitambo: Capac-Ñan 6b. Quinceañera 6a+
Sport Rock Climbs: Arco, Lago di Garda, Dolomites (Italy). Frankenjura (Germany). Les Gaillands Chamonix (France). Aranjuez, Viscachas (Bolivia). Sigsipamba, Santa Clara, Cuyuja, Cojitambo, Guagua Pichincha, Acantilado San Juan (Ecuador).
Certifications
International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations IFMGA-UIAGM Guide
Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association ASEGUIM Guide-Instructor
Wilderness First Responder.
Leave No Trace Master Educator
Mountain Guiding Course. Ecole Nationale de Ski et Alpinisme ENSA. Chamonix-Mont Blanc. France.
Rock Climbing Course. Deutsche Alpenverein DAV Sektion Oberland. Munich-Germany.
Architect . Central University of Quito-Ecuador.
PETER ATHANSCO-DIRECTOR MOUNT RAINIER PROGRAMS
Mr. Everest is simply "one of the greatest Himalayan guides around." Pete has summited Mount Everest a record seven times and has participated in 14 Everest expeditions during the past 15 years. He has an outstanding international reputation as a leader and guide. Peter's climbing expertise may even be overshadowed by his ability to guide and successfully assist others in reaching summits. Having lived in Nepal for a number of years he is an excellent resource on Nepalese culture. Accomplished photographer and cinematographer, Peter has completed a number of film projects, most recently with PBS' Nova and an Everest film for ABC TV. Peter has been climbing for twenty years and is certainly one of the world's finest guides. Peter was also awarded the American Alpine Club's David J. Sowles Award (with partner Todd Burleson) for unparalleled bravery and selflessness in a rescue situation, based upon their rescue efforts on Mt. Everest in 1996. Pete has led Alpine Ascents' climbs to Everest, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Carstensz Pyramid and Mt. Vinson.
Certifications
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
Wilderness First Responder
JOSEPH ANDERSONGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Joseph's addiction to mountain adventure started at the ripe young age of 13 when his French grandparents took him on 'holiday', to ski in the Alps. Completely unable to shake this addiction Joseph graduated with a bachelor's degree in Adventure Education from Prescott College in Arizona. Joseph has been working as a guide ever since, starting his career in 1999 for an outfit in Durango Colorado. Since then Joseph has become a true Jack of all Trades with experience including winter ski guiding and avalanche instruction for us military, six expeditions to Denali, and starting a successful youth climbing program based out of Bellingham, WA. Joseph is also an accomplished technical Alpine guide with experience guiding Alpine Rock and Ice routes all over Western Canada and the United States. Joseph lives with his wife and two sons, Jacob and Elias in Bellingham, WA
Significant Guided Ascents
Mt Baker: 48 summits (2 via Coleman Headwall, 6 Via N Ridge, 3 ski descents)
Mt Shuksan: 12 (North Cascades)
Denali: 6 Expeditions (Alaska)
Rainier: 9 Ascents (Cascades)
West Ridge of Forbidden Peak: 3 Ascents (North Cascades)
Mt Buckner (North Cascades)
Ptarmigan Traverse (Cascades)
SW Face of Kangaroo Temple 5.9 grade III: 4 Ascents (North Cascades)
SW Face of South Early 5.8 grade III: 6 Ascents (North Cascades)
Gravity’s Rainbow WI5 (San Juans)
Whorehouse Hoses WI4 (San Juans)
Lee Vining Ascents up to WI 4+: 2 Trips (Sierra Nevada)
Petit Grepon 5.8 grade III (Front Range)
Hallet Peak 5.9 grade III (Front Range)
Wham Ridge, Vestal Peak (San Juans)
Krause Mckarthy Snow Patch Spire 5.9 grade IV (Bugaboos)
Forbidden Tour (North Cascades)
Significant Personal Ascents
Dark Shadows, Echoe Tower. C3, grade IV (mud rock)
Whiskey for Breakfast, 5.11x
East Buttress of South Early Winter Spire, 5.11 grade IV
First Ascent of Grey Needle’s West Face. Needle mts Colorado
West Face of Kahiltna Queen. Grade IV
Mini Moonflower Buttress. Grade IV
Campground Couloir (Pre-Season) M5
Certifications
BA in Adventure Education
1st Responder
AIARE level III
AIARE level I instructor
AMGA Rock Instructor, Alpine guide and Ski Guide course completed
Awards and Recognition
2007 Denali pro pin
2007 Mountain Hardware Scholarship
Certifications
Canadian Avalanche Association- Operations Level 1
Avalanche Level 2
Wilderness First Responder
Leave No Trace Master
SAM TYLERGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Sam Tyler grew up in Nantucket, Massachusetts. He has been guiding for the past five years on everything from the sea cliffs of Acadia National Park to 20,000 foot peaks of the Himalayas. Sam’s climbing and guiding have taken him to Alaska, Chile, Argentina, Nepal and both the east and west coasts of the lower 48. He has been on expeditions to Aconcagua, Denali, and Ama Dablam. Sam is a wilderness first responder, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor, LNT trainer, and holds and AIARE level 2 avalanche certification. When not climbing or guiding he enjoys spending time with friends, family and a strong cup of coffee.
Significant Ascents
Aconcagua 4 times 2 ascents
Denali expedition no summit
Ama Dablam 2 times 1 Ascent
Island peak 2 Ascents 1 winter
Lobuje East 1 ascent winter
Rainier 1 ascent
Mount Hood 6 ascents
Mount superior
Cerro Ladrillero first ascent (american alpine journal)
Certifications
WFR
CPR for the professional
AMGA SPI
AIARE level 2
LNT
YATISH BAHUGUNAGUIDE, INDIA
A travel and trekking guide for over 20 years, Yatish is a dear friend and one of the most knowledgeable Indiaphiles we have ever met. Whether it be birds, mountain passes or history, Yatish posses encyclopedic understanding and stories to boot. Yatish was born and raised in Pauri, Garhwal- foot hills of the Himalayas and did his Post Graduation from Garhwal University in Indian History. A professional guide since 1983. Yatish has led innumerable, Trek cultural, history, wild life tours and Safaris, throughout the Himalayas and the Indian Subcontinent. He has co-led trips for Scientific Explorer Society of UK, Dr. Lute Jerstad (summiteers of Mt. Everest) and with Sir Gorge Band (UK). Apart from leading trips he has been engaged in various other activities as - research work in Garhwal and Kumoun Himalayas for a trekking guide book " TREKKING IN INDIAN HIMALAYA' a Lonely Planet Publication. (Second edition). Yatish leads some of our India cultural tours as well as new trips to Ladakh, Sikkim and the Indian Himalayas.
Recent Projects
"Himalaya with Michael Palin" for the famed BBC series
Assisted and worked as a guide for Mr. Mark Shand for his Book called "River Dog".
Assisted Mr Hugh Thomson on his book Called "Nanda Devi – Last Sanctuary"
Documentary films – "Queen of Elephants" by Discovery Channel.
"Source of Ganges" by Icon Films for BBC, presenter Mr. William Daryimple and directed by Mr. Hugh Thomson.
India Diary by National Geographic, presenter Mr Mark Shand.
PERREN BENEDICTGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
A famous Matterhorn guide for over eighteen years, Beni (affectionately called) has accumulated over 100 ascents of the Matterhorn alone as well as countless ascents throughout the Alps, including all of the 4,000 meter peaks. He is also a Himalayan climber and dear friend. Beni has guided with us on Everest, the Matterhorn, and Greenland. Return to Top
MARK CIONEKGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Mark climbs and skies for a living. He started Guiding/ Ski Patrolling in 1997 and has over 100 personal climbs of Mt. Rainer and 98-guided ascents of Mt. Rainier (about 115 total climbs but who can really keep track), as well as, 5 expeditions to Denali. Mark has climbed in France, Cordillera Blanca of Peru, Thailand, Red Rocks, Indian Creek, Yosemite, Joshua tree, Colorado, Montana, North Cascades, Oregon, Idaho, New York and New Mexico. Mark has a passion for climbing/skiing that always comes out in all programs he is on. He holds a Degree in Occupational Safety and Health in which from 2005-2010 he was Risk Manager for Telluride Ski and Golf and Stevens Pass WA. In 2009 He was awarded the National Ski Area Association best “Terrain Park Safety” award for Stevens Pass, WA.
Significant Ascents
Mt Rainier 98 guided climbs (5 routes) 1 Solo climb; 5 climbs under 12 hour car to car climbs via 3 routes; 1 guided climb 14 hour car to car
Denali 5 expeditions
Cordillera Blanca of Peru -
West Face of Tocllaraju 19,794
Pisco Peru 18,860 (solo 6 hours 14,000 foot base camp-to base camp)
Ishinca 18,204 (solo)
Urus 18,030
Vallunaraja 18,650
North Cascades -
Eldorado Peak
Freedom Rider Liberty Bell
Direct East Buttress of the South Early Morning Winter Spire
Northwest Corner of North Early Morning Winter Spire
South face Prusik Peak
Snow Creek Wall
Indian Creek/ Southwest Desert Utah
21 tower climbs
Red Rocks NV - Many muti-pitch climbs
Yosemite -
Half Dome
The Prow of Washington Column/ and South Face
Central Pillar of Frenzy
Thailand
Ski Descents -
Mont Blac 15,781
Mt Shasta 14,162
North Face Wilson Peak CO 14,017
Snake Coulior Mt. Snuffles CO 14,150
High Sierra Ski Traverse
Certifications
Improving Service Quality and Management effectiveness (Management Tool Inc 2010)
Wilderness First Responder Certificate (Aerie Backcountry Medicine 2010)
OSHA 30 hours training certificate
OEC wilderness first aid
State of Colorado DOL Type 1 Explosive Permit
Level 2 Avalanche Certificate, Northwest Avalanche School
Member of the NSAA
BRIAN KASAVANAGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Brian has been working as a mountaineering instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School for the past five years. He splits his time mostly between Alaska and Chilean Patagonia. He has led expeditions for work and play in the Chugach Range, Wrangells, Eastern Alaska (Hayes) Range, Cascades, Winds, and the Andes. Brian has done numerous winter trips in the Tetons and Winds and has done some exploring in Alaska on packrafts. He went to college in the Northwest and began climbing and working in the Cascades. In his spare time he enjoys skiing, climbing, mountain biking and exploring. He is currently planning a trip to Tibet in 2012.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder and CPR
Leave No Trace Master Educator
Avalanche Professional Level I
TOM EICHENBERGERGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Tom’s guiding career began in Southern Utah, where he spent 3 seasons guiding over 325 rock climbing, desert tower, and canyoneering trips. Tom currently lives in Salt Lake City, Utah and enjoys climbing and splitboarding in the Wasatch range, and mountaineering and ice climbing in the North Cascades, Montana, Wyoming, and Colorado. When not climbing, Tom likes to cook and hike with his dog, Gus.
Notable Climbs
Mount Rainier (Liberty Ridge)
Mt. Baker (North Ridge)
Grand Teton (Direct Exum Ridge, Grand Teton N.P.)
Moses Tower (Canyonlands National Park)
Castleton Tower (North Face, Castle Valley Ut.)
The Diamond (Rocky Mountain National Park)
Petit Grepon (Rocky Mountain National Park)
The Scenic Cruise (Black Canyon National Park)
Moonlight Buttress (Zion National Park)
Levitation 29 (Red Rock Canyon)
Certifications
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Level I Avalanche
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
Wilderness First Responder
Professional member: AMGA and PCGI
PASCAL BEAUVAISGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
For the past eight years, Pascal has been working as a climbing, mountaineering and winter instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School. As a senior instructor, he has lead trips in Alaska, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Washington, British Columbia, Yukon Territory, Chilean Patagonia and India. While living in the Yukon Territory, Pascal spent many seasons climbing and working in the Coast Range on the BC/Alaska border, one of his favorite place on the planet. A native french speaker and adventure photographer, Pascal loves traveling and experiencing new cultures. He now lives in Bozeman, MT.
Certifications
Canadian Avalanche Association- Operations Level 1
Avalanche Level 2
Wilderness First Responder
Leave No Trace Master
WILLIE BENEGASGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Significant Ascents
Mt. Everest summit, 2009 (Nine Summits total)
2006 summit 22 mountains in 21 days, Cordillera Real Bolivia.
2005 summit Everest and Cho Oyu.
First ascent of “The Crystal Snake,” north face of Nuptse, Nepal, 2003
Mt. Kenya: all massif towers in 16 hours, 2002
Aconcagua: world-record ascent/descent, 54 miles, 13,500 ft elevation gain, 2000
Oshapalca: new route south face, “My Message,” 5.7 WI 4/5, 2,400 ft, 2000
Mt. Cuerno: first ascent of south face (17,600 ft), 5.7 WI 3, 4,640 ft. in 4.36 hours round-trip solo, 2000
First Ascent Argentina: Andes “Welcome to a Dream,”V 5.11 A4+, 1999
The Pandora Box of Artensoraju, 5.9 WI 3, 1998
Nameless Tower, “Book of Shadows,” VII 5.10+ A4 WI 4,1995
20/20 Classics Climb: climbed 20 of the climbs from 50 Classic Climbs of North America in 20 days; ascended 60,080 ft, traveled 137 miles on foot, 2 hours by canoe, and climbed 241 pitches, 1993
Patagonia: first place, 62.5 mile endurance run, 9:35 hours, 1986
Atensoraju (19,328 ft): new route of north ridge/face
Patagonia Exploration: first ascent of “Swept by the Wind,” 5.13a, 1,000 ft
“The Nose”: VI 5.11 A1, 16 ascents, ten one-day ascents and many other speed record on El Capitan.
Run Leadville 100 miles race.
Aconcagua over 50 ascents
Certifications
American Avalanche Institute: Level 3 Avalanche Course
AMGA: Rock Guide
Wilderness First Responder
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MATT SCHONWALDGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Matt moved out west from New York City in 1988 and has been climbing and skiing in the NW ever since. His addiction to travel and passion for exploring new terrain has taken him to Europe, Asia, North & South America. Matt has shared his passion for remote and wild mountain areas since 1999, guiding in the Cascades, Alaska, Canada, South America, Nepal, Europe and Antarctica. He has made technical ascents & descents in the Chugach Range of Alaska, the Cascades of Washington, the French and Swiss Alps. In an effort to help preserve wild places, Matt completed his MBA in sustainable business from BGI. When not out climbing or skiing, Matt works on his own personal sustainability in Seattle with his wife, daughter and his snow dog.
Significant Ascents
Vinson Massif (1 guided ski descent)
Denali (1 guided)
Island Peak (1 personal)
Tharpu Chuli (1 personal)
Haute Route( 3 guided)
Mt Blanc (4 guided)
Cayambe (1 guided)
Orizaba (1 guided)
Finsteraarhorn (1 guided)
Monch (1guided,1 personal ski descent)
Mt. Rainier (5 guided, 1 personal)
Mount Baker (40+ guided by 5 routes)
Mount Shuksan (15 guided 2 personal)
Mount Sleese (1 personal)
Certifications
AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guide
American Avalanche Association Professional Member
AIARE Level 1 & 2 Course Leader
Wilderness First Responder
Level III Avalanche
MBA
BEN FLOYDGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Ben Learned to climb in Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park, where he skied, climbed and taught outdoor education for 4 years. A graduate of Adventure Guide Kamloops, BC Ben has rock climbed in California, Colorado, Idaho, Oregon, Utah, Wyoming, Alberta, British Colombia and Mexico. Ben has guided and climbed, Aconcagua, Colorado, Wyoming, Alberta and BC. We look forward to Ben guiding for us in our WA programs.
Return to Top
SAM HENNESSYGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
I was born in Port Angeles, WA in 1989, and started mountaineering in the Olympics and Cascades when I was 13. Over the last 8 years I have gotten interested in skiing, rock and ice climbing. I attended Whitman College, in Walla Walla, WA, and got a degree in Biology. My favorite climbs tend to be long multipitch routes, and I have recently found a new interest in big walls, but mainly I'm just hoping to explore the West and climb in new places. Other interests include: watching animals, distance running, skiing, and fishing.
Significant Ascents
North Ridge of Mt. Baker
Ice Cliff Glacier - Mt. Stuart
Epinephrine - IV, 5.9
Eagle Dance - IV, 5.10c A0
Moonlight Buttress - V, 5.8 C1
The Nose - VI 5.9 C2
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Level II Avalanche
DANNY OZMENTGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Having skied throughout New Mexico and Colorado while growing up, Danny knew early on that his life would somehow have to revolve around living and working in the mountains. As soon as college was over, he began his career as a ski instructor in Colorado and never looked back. Instructing has taken him to several resorts throughout Colorado, Washington, and most recently five seasons in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. After discovering a passion for backcountry skiing 10 years ago, Jackson Hole seemed to be the natural progression for developing skills for ski mountaineering. His addiction for exploring mountain environments and skiing wherever possible has taken Danny to many mountain ranges throughout Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, California, Washington and British Columbia.
Significant Ascents
Mt. Rainier, Washington (2 personal)
Mt. Baker, Washington (2 personal, 1 ski descent)
Teewinot Mountain, Wyoming (2 personal, 1 ski descent)
Mt. Moran, Wyoming (ski descent)
Mt. Shasta, California
Iconoclast Peak, Selkirks, B.C. (ski descent)
Nez Pierce, Wyoming (4 personal with ski descents)
Middle Teton, Wyoming (ski descent)
24 Colorado 14'ers with 5 ski descents
Excelsior Peak, California (ski descent)
Bloody Mountain, California (ski descent)
Mt. Tukuhnikivatz, Utah (ski descent)
Silver Star Peak, Washington (ski descent)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder/CPR
Level II Avalanche
PSIA Level 2 Ski Instructor
Leave No Trace Trainer
DAN STARRGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Dan Starr began guiding in 2002. Since then Dan has guided rock and alpine climbs throughout the North Cascades, the Alaska Range, Mount Rainier, the Khumbu region of Nepal, the Teton Range, and the Wind River Range. A passionate ski mountaineer and professional ski patrolman in Jackson Hole since 2000, Dan has guided ski descents of various peaks including the Grand Teton, several seasons worth of heli-ski descents in Alaska’s Chugach Range, and exotic ski tours and ski descents on the Antarctic Peninsula and in Argentina’s Tierra Del Fuego. Dan began teaching avalanche courses for the American Avalanche Institute and guiding expeditions on Denali’s West Buttress in 2005. A fifteen-year resident of Jackson Hole, Dan has completed numerous ski descents on virtually every Teton peak. Dan climbed Ama Dablam in a one-day push and guided Lobuje East in Nepal in 2005 and climbed Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya in 1995. Dan is currently a certified AMGA aspirant guide.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
KIRAH SOLOMONGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Growing up in Colorado, Kirah began her climbing and skiing education in the Rocky Mountains and, after graduating from college, continued her studies on the Cascade Volcanoes of the Pacific Northwest. She began her guiding career on Mount Shasta and in the Eastern Sierra on Mt. Whitney and, in 2009, she guided on Aconcagua in Argentina. Since 1997 she has expanded her knowledge of rock and ice climbing in locations like Estes Park, Smith Rock, Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Owens River Gorge, Red Rocks, Indian Creek, and Little Cottonwood Canyon. Kirah is a professional ski patroller in Park City and enjoys backcountry ski trips in Utah's many mountains. With education from organizations such as AMGA, APP, AIARE, PSIA, and LNT, Kirah is able to pair professional training with her natural enthusiasm for climbing and revel in sharing it with others. When not playing outside she might be found reading, practicing Spanish, or enjoying the company of her animal friends.
Significant Ascents
Aconcagua (1 guided)
Denali (1 personal, 1 guided)
Mt. Olympus (1 personal)
Rainier (1 personal, 6 guided)
Shasta (100+ guided)
15 Cascade volcanoes (5 ski descents, 1 snowboard descent)
14 Colorado fourteeners (1 ski descent)
2 Sierra Nevada fourteeners
Certifications
Outdoor Emergency Care
American Red Cross - CPR & AED
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace
Association of Professional Patrollers - Hill Safety, Rope Rescue, Skiing, and Risk Mgmt.
LAUREN EDWARDSGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Lauren has been working as climbing and mountaineering instructor for NOLS for the past six years. She has lead trips in Alaska, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, and Idaho, and has spent many seasons playing and working in the Alaska Range, the Chugach, and the Wrangells. Lauren has done three trips on Denali, and loves the mountains of Alaska. In the winter, she ski patrols in Utah and works closely with the Avalanche Dog program in the Wasatch. Lauren has a BA from University of Iowa, where she played Division I field hockey for 4 years. In her spare time, she climbs and skis whenever she can, based out of her home in Salt Lake City. She has done personal traveling throughout China, Tibet, Nepal, Mongolia, and Russia.
Certifications
WFR and CPR
Avalanche Level II
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
WBR Certified A-Avalance Dog Handler
CHAD KELLOGGGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Possessing a diverse background in climbing Chad has focused most of his climbing in mountaineering and aid climbing. He has spent the past 9 years guiding and climbing in the Cascades, Sierras, Alaska Range, Himalayas, and Andes. He has guided multiple trips on Aconcagua and has over 60 summits of Mt. Rainier. Chad also has a strong Search and Rescue background working as a Mt. Rainier Climbing Ranger. In 2003 Chad broke the Denali West Buttress Speed ascent record, and won the prestigious Khan Tengri Speed Climbing competition! He enjoys climbing big walls, his favorite route in Yosemite to date is 'The Wall of Early Morning Light.' We are excited to welcome Chad as a member of our Guide Staff.
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DAVID DIETZGENGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Since first discovering his bliss growing up in the Swiss Alps, David Dietzgen has turned his passion for the mountains into a life-style. Climbing his first glaciated peak at thirteen, he began his path with the youth section of the Swiss Alpine Club. After high school, David moved to Alaska to find legendary snow and true wilderness. For over ten years, he has been involved with the outdoor industry. He has lead snowboard trips in British Colombia, taught leadership to young adults, lived and worked in the Sierra Nevada, guided on Denali and lead ski/mountaineering trips all over the west. You may find him shooting a story in the powder or collaborating with peers on a film project. An eclectic soul who defies categories, David is as comfortable on the streets of Manhattan, filming in Siberia or skiing at 6000 meters. Storytelling is his art, teaching his gift, and the mountains his passion.
Significant Ascents
Allalhin
Le Trient
Petit Combin
The East Side of the Sierra
Yosemite, El Capitain (attempt), Tuolumne
Tahoe Backcountry
Lassen
Mount Shasta
Mount Jefferson
Mount Hood
Mount Adams
Mount Rainier
Mount Baker
The Wallowa Back Country
Denali, (West Buttress, and West Buttress Direct.)
Devils Tower
The Grand Teton, Exum Ridge
Mount Belucha(attempt), Altai Siberia
LEE LAZZARAGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Talk about hitting the jackpot... Lee made the move from suburban New Jersey to the good times and even better snow of Park City at age 16 and has called Utah home ever since. Finding a life in the mountains has taken him through a variety of work – from groveling as a ski resort dishwasher, to learning the mysteries of snow shoveling and hot tub maintenance, finally graduating to the world of ski patrolling and mountain guiding. He comes to his first year at Alpine Ascents with three years of ski and mountain guiding experience and first ascents in such far flung locations as Utah, Washington and Argentina. He moonlights as a freelance writer, speaks Spanish at a 1st grade level and plays guitar somewhat well.
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JULIAN HANNAGUIDE, RAINIER, DENALI, CASCADES
Born and raised in Northern California, the mountains were never too far away from Julian. After graduating college he moved to Lake Tahoe and solidified his path as a mountain guide. Big mountain freeride competitions have taken him to ranges all over North America and his journey to ride perfect steep lines and stable powder ended when he found the coastal mountains of Alaska. According to Julian: "There is nothing more rewarding than discovering the mountains with friends and clients and getting home safely at the end of the day." In 2004 he began guiding in Alaska and has worked as a mountaineering guide on Denali, the Wrangell-St Elias National Park, and as a helicopter ski guide in Haines. He is also a Field Instructor in Antarctica and guides and instructs year round.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Outdoor Emergency Care
Avalanche I and II AIARE
Avalanche I Mechanized Helicopter Ski Guide AMGA Ski Guide Course JASAR
(Joint Antarctic Search and Rescue) Team Member
CECELIA MORTENSONGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, CASCADES
Cece has climbed, guided or traveled on 6 continents, including Antarctica, where she was the lead field mountaineer for the US Antarctic Program. Cece has guided expeditions in to Aconcagua, Denali, multi-summit tours to Bolivia, traverses of the Northern Patagonia ice-cap, climbs of the volcanoes of Mexico and led numerous climbs up Ranier, Baker and other more technical peaks of the Cascades. She also works as a tail-guide in the winter at Canadian Heli and Cat skiing operations.
Personal mountain journeys include 2 expeditions to the Himalaya; a traverse of the crown jewel of British Columbia – Mt. Waddington; an ascent of Mt Fairweahter in Alaska – from the ocean, a 6-week ski mountaineering traverse on the Taku, Jueau and Stikkine Icefields in Alaska; and explorations in the Japanese, New Zealand and the French Alps. When not alpine climbing or guiding, depending on the season, you will likely find Cece searching out perfect crack climbing in Squamish or Zion, ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, or ski-mountaineering in the mountains of Canada.
Recently, Cece is working through her Canadian Mountain Guide Certifications. When journeying into the mountains with Cecelia, you will immediately sense her passion for climbing, guiding and ultimately, for guiding people into some of the most incredible mountainous regions of the world while providing a fun, safe and incredible experience.
Certifications
ACMG Assistant Alpine and Assistant Rock Guide
Canadian Avalanche Association Level 2
OFA Level III Medical Training
SPRATT Level III
Rigging for Rescue
EITAN GREENGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Originally from the Boston area Eitan cut his teeth climbing and guiding in the white mountains of New Hampshire and on the sea cliffs of Maine. Duriong his time at Colby College in Maine Eitan spent a semseter in the Darjeeling hills, the foot hills of the Himalaya in India and became fluent in Nepali. After graduating with a degree in anthropology, Eitan headed to guide the big mountains in Washington in the summer and in ice climbing in Ouray, Colorado in the winter. Eitan has climbed extensively throughout the United States and in Canada too. See more at http://inthehillsandontherocks.blogspot.com
Significant Climbs
Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier, Disappointment Clever, and Edmonds Head Wall, WA
Guiding on Aconcagua, Argentina
Guiding on Mount Baker, WA
Guiding an ascent of Forbidden Peak, Boston Basin, WA
Guiding an ascent of Shark's Fin Tower, Boston Basin, WA
Treks to 18,000 feet in Sikkim, India
Ascent of the Chief in Squamish, BC
Ascent of the Grand Teton and Middle Teton, WY
Many winter ascents of Mount Washington, NH
2 winter expeditions to Mount Katahdin, ME
Portland Marathon Finisher 3:34:27
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
ERICA LORENZENGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Erica has worked as a guide and instructor for fifteen years, leading expeditions in the Rockies, Cascades, Canyonlands, Alaska, and Patagonia. On her own time, she has climbed, trekked, and horse-packed in Bolivia, Mongolia, Kashmir, Nepal and all over the United States. She adores wild places, particularly those that have lots of ice and snow and loves working with people from all over the world. In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, Erica is a senior field instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School and a science teacher at the Bush School. Erica lives in Seattle, where she spends her free time racing bikes, backcountry skiing in the Cascades, and trying to make vegetables grow in her garden.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
RACHEL GREENBERGGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Rachel has been working in the outdoor industry since 2000. She has climbed throughout the western United States and in countries like Argentina and New Zealand. Rachel has guided all over Utah, Washington and Alaska. Originally from Portland, Maine, she went to school in Colorado where she was first introduced to technical climbing. She now calls Seattle home and is pursuing a second degree in nursing when she is not out working or playing in the mountains.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Leave Not Trace Trainer
Avalanche Level II
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
DMITRY SIDOROVGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
By age of 25 Dmitry became an accomplished alpinist with gold medals in USSR/Russia national climbing championships to his credit. Dmitry completed USSR "Instructor of Alpinism" school and IMGA/UIAA guide training program. Search of adventure and work led Dmitry to USA where he worked as Outward Bound School instructor, professional ski patroller, mountain guide for last 12 years. Today with an anchor in Anchorage, AK Dmitry splits his professional time between working in health care industry and sharing his passion for mountaineering with the world. His major addictions include XC skiing, ski touring, biking, fishing, baking bread and brewing beer, making felted slippers, playing guitar and dancing, traveling and climbing around the world.
Significant Ascents
Elbrus (2 personal)
Peak Communism - 24,590 ft (1 personal)
Peak Korzhenevskaya - 23,310 ft (2 personal)
Khan-Tengry - 22,949 ft (2 personal)
Denali (1 personal)
Aconcagua (2 guided)
Orizaba/La Malinche (1 personal)
Rainier (2 personal, 6 guided)
Baker (5 personal, over 30 guided)
Glacier (1 personal)
Garibaldi (1 guided)
Shuksan (1 guided)
Eldorado (1 guided)
Forbidden (3 guided)
Certifications
LENSA guide
Wilderness First Responder
BEN JONESGUIDE, DENALI, SCHOOL, INTERNATIONAL
Ben Jones has spent the last 9 years working as a professional guide and instructor in Alaska, Wyoming, Idaho, Washington, British Columbia, Norway, Argentina, Nepal and Mexico. Ben is competent on rock, ice, and snow but spends a majority of his time in the snow. Ben has instructed courses in mountaineering, backcountry skiing, snowboarding, and horsepacking. While teaching mountaineering at National outdoor leadership school, Ben got to extensively explore the glaciers of the Chugach mountains, Wrangells, eastern Alaska range, and remote mountains in British Columbia as well as in Wyoming and Idaho. In the Fall Ben also has kept busy as a wilderness big game hunting guide in Wyoming. In the off season, while residing in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, Ben’s hobbies include skiing, climbing, metal work, blacksmithing, running, fixing things, and practicing Spanish. Ben guides for us on Kilimanjaro, in Alaska, South America, and in Washington State. Most recently, Ben guided for our 2011 Mount Everest Expedition.
Significant Ascents
1 ascent of Everest (Guided)
4 expeditions to Denali including the Muldrow Glacier (3 ascents, 2 guided, 1 personal) 20,320ft.
6 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina (2 Ascents) 22,829ft.
2 ascents of El Pico de Orizaba & Ixtaccihuatl (Mexico)
1 expedition to Annapurna Sanctuary
1 ascent of Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak), Nepal 18,577ft.
1 expedition to Singu Chuli and Hiun Chuli, Nepal
1 expedition to Mt. Foraker 17,400ft.
1 expedition to Mt. Marcus Baker, Chugach, Alaska (guided)
1 expedition to Mt. Waddington, British, Columbia (guided)
20+ ascents of Mt. Rainier via 5 routes
1 ski descent of Mt. Rainier via Fuhrer Finger
1 ski descent of Mt. Moran via skillet glacier
5 ascents of Mt. Baker
3 ascents of Mt. Shuksan
2 ascents of Mt. Hood
2 ascents of Mt. Athabasca, BC
3 ascents of The Grand Teton, summer and winter
1 ascent of Picacho Del Diablo in Baja California, Mexico (Baja’s highest peak) (guided)
1 ascent of Galdhopiggen, Norway (highest peak) (guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder/ CPR
Level II Avalanche
Leave No Trace Master Trainer
PHIL MARINOGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Phil comes to Alpine Ascents with seven years of guiding experience throughout the west, including the Cascades, Red Rocks, Alaska and California. He has climbed extensively throughout the mountains of the western US, including big wall routes in Yosemite and the desert Southwest. He has made numerous rock and ice ascents in the North Cascades, focusing more recently on the range's spectacular ski touring. Lately Phil has been focusing on ski expeditions/traverses in the Selkirk and Waddington ranges of British Columbia, with a planned ski descent of Mt. Waddington. When not in the mountains Phil can be found enjoying the warm granite of his home, Leavenworth, Wa.
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CLEVE MCDONALDGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, ALASKA
Cleve grew up in Alaska hunting, fishing and exploring the back country both on foot and by aircraft. His enthusiasm for flying led to a rewarding career as an airline pilot and flight instructor which financed his other passion for climbing and traveling. He discovered the excitement of expedition climbing in the early 80’s and completed the Seven Summits in 2004. In addition he has climbed in South America, the Chugach, Talkeetna, Alaska and Cascade ranges. Cleve guides for us in Nepal, our Peru Trek and our Alaska Yak Tours.
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JOHNNY RUTKOWSKIGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Johnny began his love for the outdoors growing up on a potato farm in Middletown, Delaware. He got into rock climbing in college and soon progressed to climbing ice and mountains. After spending a year in Iraq with the army he drove across the US twice in his pickup getting to know some of North America's great climbing destinations such as The Gunks, Seneca Rocks, Eldorado Canyon, Squamish and others. He was in New Zealand from August '07 to March '10 guiding glacier hikes on the Franz Josef Glacier. His time in New Zealand was most treasured however during many extensive treks and climbs throughout the heart of the Southern Alps. Some select favorite mountains include Mt Cook and Mt Tasman of New Zealand and Illinisa Sur of Ecuador. When he's not climbing he enjoys playing bluegrass music on the guitar, mandolin, fiddle and banjo.
Significant Ascents
Denali (1 guided)
Mt Rainier (5 guided 2 personal)
Mt Baker (1guided 2 personal 1 ski descent)
Mt Cook NZ (1 personal)
Mt Tasman NZ (1 personal)
Illinisa Sur Ecuador (1 personal)
Certifications
NZ Pre-Hospital Emergency Care
NZ Professional Avalanche Rescue Stage 1
Wilderness First Responder
ALEX EVERETTGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, CASCADES
Alex came to Alpine Ascents in early 2008 and led a successful climb up Denali’s West Buttress. A NOLS guide for the last 8 years Alex has demonstrated superb leadership skills in mountaineering and has climbed extensively in the Alaska Range, Chugach and the Wrangells. When not guiding for Alpine Ascents Alex makes his home in Jackson Hole Wyoming, and climbs and skis regularly in the Tetons. In addition to leading mountaineering programs in the Tetons, Alex has led courses in the Snake River Range. In his career at NOLS Alex lead programs in mountaineering, sea kayaking, and hiking.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Significant Ascents
Mt. Blackburn, Marcus Baker, The White Princess (E. AK Range), Rainier, Baker 02-07
Numerous one day ski mountaineering routes in the Tetons in 01-08
Wind River Range 10 day solo ski tour (Titcomb Basin) 01
Pioneer Peak, AK 02
Denali via the West Rib and ski the Messner Couloir in 08
Personal Climbing and Travel:
Ice climbing in the Mt. Washington valley to WI 4 07
1-2 weeks each in Smith Rocks, Joshua Tree, Indian Creek, Squamish, Cirques of the Towers, Acadia National Park, and elsewhere. Trad leading to 5.10 98-present.
500 mile horse and fly fishing tirp. Arkangai Province, Central Mongolia 04. Cates of the Arctics (Anaktuvik Pass to Bettles) N fork Koyukuk River 03
Running dogs for top Iditarod musher, McKinley Village, AK 03
30 day intensive Spanish language training, Guatemala 02
Copper River 7 days to Cordova 01
25 day bike tour Panama to Nicaragua 99
30 day Rome to Istanbul 97
LAKPA GELU SHERPAGUIDE, RAINIER
Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa began guiding on Mt. Rainier for Alpine Ascents in 2008 and he has previously climbed Himalayan peaks such as Everest (13 summits), Cho Oyu (3 summits), Ama Dablam (2 summits). Lhakpa Gelu grew up in the Solo Khumbu region close to Mt. Everest, but now resides in Salt Lake City. He held the speed record on Mt. Everest when in 2003 he climbed from Base Camp to the summit in less than 11 hours. Climbing with Lhakpa Gelu is truly an honor, he is shy and reserved, yet possesses an uncanny ability to instill a sense of comfort and confidence of those who climb with him. Look for Lhakpa Gelu on our 3 day Rainier climb of the Disappointment Cleaver route through Camp Muir!
Significant Ascents
Everest 14 ascents
Rainier 47 ascents
Aconcagua 8 ascents
Denali 1 ascent
LHAWANG DHONDUPGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Lhawang began his professional climbing career at the age of 18 in the Himalayas. Since then he has been on more than 25 Himalayan expeditions with summits of Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and. He was instrumental in providing logistical support for his friend and climbing partner, Babu Chiri, in his record-breaking speed ascent and later longest stay on the top of Mount Everest. (Babu still holds the record for the longest stay on the summit at 21 hours, 30 minutes without supplemental oxygen). Lhawang has also guided ascents of Rainier, Denali, the Mexico Volcanoes and many other high peaks internationally. Lhawang is a student of Buddhist Philosophy and Asian History, which he studied for nine years at the Varanasi University in India. When he is not climbing Lhawang deals in antique textiles and rugs from his homeland. He resides in Berkeley, California when he is not traveling.
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STUART ROBERTSONGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Stuart has had a lifelong passion and love for the mountains and outdoors. Early backpacking trips with family and friends quickly progressed to mountaineering throughout Britain often in ‘full on‘ Scottish winter conditions. Following university, where Stuart studied Geography, he spent four months trekking and climbing in the Nepal Himalaya. On return Stuart served as a Paratrooper with the British Army and much of this time was spent on Britain's higher ground in less than ideal conditions. In the past ten years Stuart has had the privilege of climbing rock, ice and alpine routes throughout the diverse State of Washington. People who have been on trips with him have remarked on his calmness under pressure, strong leadership skills, wry Scottish humor and his genuine enthusiasm for seeing his clients realize their goals. When not climbing he enjoys running, private flying and spending time with his wife, Amy, and sons Kai and Ewan at their home in Seattle.
Significant Ascents
75+ ascents of Mount Rainier via eight routes (14,410')
4 Denali expeditions(20,320')
4 Aconcagua expeditions
El Pico de Orizaba (18,490 feet) and Iztaccihuatl ('Izta' 17,343ft.) Mexico
11 ascents of Mount Baker via six routes
3 ascents of Mount Hood via three routes
5 ascents of Mount Shuksan via three routes
Over 50 Cascade Peaks
Over 150 Scottish Munros, including Ben Nevis, via ten routes
Numerous rock, alpine and ice climbs in Europe and North America up to E1 5.10
Scottish Winter Grade IV-V
Solo climbs of Imja Tse (20,305'), Mera Peak (21,247'), Chukhung Tse (19,253') and Tharpu Chuli (18,045') in the Nepal Himalaya
Certifications
Emergency Medical Technician through King County EMS
CPR for the Professional Rescuer
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level I & II
B-3 Interagency Helicopter Safety Certification
Leave No Trace Trainer
UK Mountain Leader Board Mountain Leader Training
Single Pitch Supervisor
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
PAUL KOUBEKGUIDE, DENALI, ACONCAGUA, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Paul joined Alpine Ascents in 2008 as a natural step in a 15 year career leading groups in the outdoors, working with Outward Bound, the National Outdoor Leadership School, and the Appalachian Mountain Club among others. When not working with Alpine Ascents International, Paul works with YOSAR (YOsemite Search And Rescue) and the U.S. Antarctic Program.
Paul has led expeditions in Wyoming’s Wind River Range, the North and Central Cascades, the Waddington Range of British Columbia, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Alaska, the Kumoan Himalaya (India) and Western Antarctica. Paul is fluent in German and Spanish.
Significant Ascents
- Denali, West Buttress (5 guiding, 1 as National Park Service volunteer ranger)
- Aconcogua, False Polish (guiding)
- Iztacchihuatl, Standard Route
- Mt. Rainier, Kauz Glacier (personal) Disappointment Cleaver (1 guiding, 1 personal)
- Baker, Coleman Deming (personal) Easton Glaciar (personal)
- Mt. Hood (7 personal including: Sunshine Route, Cooper Spur, Reid Glacier Headwall, West Crater Rim, and Standard)
- South Howser Tower (Bugaboos) Grade V, 5.10
- Mt. Slesse, NE Buttress, Grade V, 5.9
- North Sister (Oregon Cascades) 2 personal, via Sunshine Couloir and Standard Route.
- Mt. Washington (Oregon Cascades) 2 guiding, 1 personal
- Mt. Adams 2 personal via Standard Route and Adams Glacier.
- Dome Peak (1 personal, 1 guiding)
- Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge, Grade II, 5.4
- Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge
- Mt. Jubilee (Waddington Range, B.C.) PD+ 2 guiding
- Forbidden, West Ridge, Grade III, 5.4, (2 personal, 1 guiding)
- Eldorado Peak (5 guiding)
- Sharkfin Tower (guiding)
- Mt. Stuart, 2 personal via North Ridge Grade III, 5.9, and West Ridge
- Mt. Edith Cavell, East Ridge, Grade III, 5.4
- Wolf’s Head, East Ridge, Grade II, 5.6
- Mt Shuksan, 2 personal via Fisher Chimneys and Sulfide Glacier
Certifications
WFR
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Master
MICHAEL ABBEYGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Michael Abbey has been climbing for over 20 years and guiding professionally for eight. He is a safe, competent, and patient teacher who has taught climbing to people of all ages and abilities ranging from Special Forces to children with disabilities. Michael has done an extensive amount of rock and alpine climbing throughout North America including first ascents of big-wall rock and ice routes up to Grade V. His accomplishments include rock climbs in France and Corsica, Germany, Spain, Italy, Mexico, Thailand, Oman, and Hong Kong; steep ski descents in the Tetons and French Alps; and waterfall ice climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, California, France, and Switzerland. Michael is a former Force Recon Marine who has served on expeditions around the word, and completed the arctic and winter mountain training at the Mountain Warfare Training Center in Bridgeport, CA.
Significant Ascents
2 Day Ascent of the Harvard Route, Mt. Huntington (VI 5.9 A2)
16 hour car to car of South Buttress/ S. Ridge of Mt. Moran (V 5.8 A1)
One day solo ascent of Sun Ribbon Arete (IV 5.10a) and Swiss Arete (III 5.7)
Direct start to the SuperCouloir (ED2)- Mont Blanc du Tacul
N. Face of Les Droites (ED2) in winter
On-sight First Ascent of the Doublet (V 5.11 2,000 ft) in 12 hours
First Ascent of Ice Dragon (V WI 4 M6 1,000 ft.)
The Silver Cord (V WI4+)
14:21 hour ascent of The Grand Traverse (V 5.8)- Tetons
4 hour ascent of the Black Ice Couloir from Lower Saddle
1 day solo of Regular Route, Fairview Dome (IV 5.9), Matthes Crest (III 5.7), and Cathedral Peak (5.7) – Toulomne Meadows
Nine hour link-up of The Snaz (III, 5.10), Caveat Emptor (III, 5.10), and Sunshine Daydream (IV, 5.11)- Tetons
First Ascent of California Dreamin' (IV WI5 )- Beartooth Mtns
On-sight of The Rainbow Wall (V 5.12b)
One day ski descent of the Grand Teton
W. Buttress of Denali (x3, x1Lead Guide)
Mt Rainier (x6)
E. Buttress of El Capitan (V 5.10c)
Complete Exum Ridge (x6)
N. Face of Granite Peak (IV 5.8 AI 3)
E. Buttress of Mt. Whitney
E. Face Mont Blanc du Tacul (x2)
Grand Teton (x50+)
N. Pillar, Middle Teton (III, 5.9)
Mt. Moran (x4)
Liberty Crack (V 5.11)
Les Dru (V 5.11)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
AMGA Ski Guides Course
AMGA Alpine Guides Course
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
PSIA Level I Ski Instructor
MATT HEGEMANGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Matt has guides throughout northern California for the last 5 years, over 35 ascents of Mt. Shasta, Mt. street, and all 14,000’ peaks in California. Matt has climbed peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, numerous mulit-pich rock routes in the Bugaboos, and extensive rock climbing Red Rocks, Indian Creek, Yosemite, Joshua Tree. Matt has an affinity for long water ice routes, multi-day back country ski tours, and long granite (overnight) rock climbs. Matt is an AMGA certified rock guide.
Certifications
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level I
JOHN PRUDHOMMEGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
JP has been climbing for almost two decades and guiding professionally for five years. Based in Portland, OR, he spends his summers climbing and guiding in the Cascades, Alaska and the Sierra Nevada, and the rest of the year guiding and traveling internationally. As a former NOLS instructor and outdoor educator, JP prides himself in the teaching of skills and mountaineering/environmental ethics. He has climbed extensively in the Andes, Rockies, Sierra Nevada, Cascades, and Alaska ranges. A geography grad degree and a few years of GIS/land conservation work have given him a great appreciation for maps, natural resource protection and....not having a desk job. When he's not guiding, climbing or ski mountaineering, he's probably traveling, riding bikes, tinkering with his classic old motorcycle, or scheming up his next alpine adventure.
Significant Ascents
Denali (1 guided)
Aconcagua (5 guided)
Mercedario (1 personal)
Sajama (1 personal)
Illimani (1 personal)
Huayna Potosi (1 personal)
Cabeza de Condor (1 personal)
Pequena Alpamayo (1 personal)
Pico de Orizaba (1 guided)
Ixtaccihuatl (1 guided)
Mt. Kenya.(1 personal)
plus: Multiple Cascades Summits, including-
Mt. Shasta summits (30)
Mt. Rainier summits (20)
Mt Adams summits (3)
Mt Hood summits (3)
Mt Baker summits (5)
7 Sierra Nevada 14teeners
4 Colorado 14teeners
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II (AIARE)
LNT Master
SETH TIMPANOGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Seth started climbing and exploring the mountains in his home state of Montana at a young age and enjoys traveling to new places and learning about unique cultures and wild places. This passion for adventure has taken him on climbing expeditions across the globe including: Antarctica, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina, Peru, Alaska, Thailand, the French Alps, Spain, Canada and Nepal. Seth enjoys teaching both mountaineering and technical climbing skills in addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents in the Cascades, Alaska and South America.
Significant Ascents
Mount Huntington-Harvard Route, Denali, Peak 11,300-SW Ridge, Mount Frances, Mooses Tooth-Ham & Eggs (Alaska)
Chopicalqui, Pisco, Urus Este, Quitaraju-North Face, Artesonraju-SW Face (Peru)
Mount Vinson (Antarctica)
Mount Cook (Aoraki), Mount Earnslaw (New Zealand)
Aconcagua, Cerro Catedral, El Mocho-Piola Anker, Cerro Poincenot-Whilians (Argentina)
Mount Blanc du Tacul-Normal Route, Les Courtes-Swiss Route, Modica-Noury, Fil a Plomb, Supercouloir-Direct Start(France)
Tharpu Chuli-NW Face, New Route on East Ridge of Hiun Chuli (No Summit) (Nepal)
Les Cornes-Springbok Arete, Mount Sleese-NE Buttress, Ice Climbs up to WI6, M7+, Grade V (Canada)
El Plomo-SE Ridge (Chile)
Various Rock Climbs up to 5.11+ (Thailand)
Mount Rainier-Kautz, DC, Emmons & Ingraham Direct, Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, Dragontail Peak-Serpentine Arete,
Liberty Bell-Liberty Crack, Mount Stuart-North Ridge (Washington)
Granite Peak-East Ridge, Crazy Peak-Crazy Couloir, Sphinx Mountain-Lowe Route, Whitetail Peak, Black Mountain,
Ice Climbs up to WI6, M6+, Grade V and several remote first ascents (Montana)
Half Dome-NW Face (1 day Ascent) (California)
Grand Teton-Upper Exum, Ice Climbs up to WI5, Grade IV (Wyoming)
28 Unique Desert Towers up to 5.11, several big walls in Zion up to A3 (Utah)
Certifications
Leave No Trace
Wilderness First Responder
Level I & II Avalanche
Awards and Recognition
2010 McNeill-Nott Award (AAC) Grant Recipient
Denali Pro Pin 2010
CRAIG VAN HOYGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
He has over 350 summits of Mount Rainier by 19 different routes, including several first ascents. Craig has participated on three expeditions to Mount Everest via the North Col which led to a successful summit on the highest peak in the world in 2004. He has summitted Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. A year-round guide, he leads expeditions to South America, Africa, Mexico and Nepal during the off-season. Craig is fluent in Spanish and Nepali and specializes in foreign travel with an emphasis on environmental and cultural awareness.
Significant Ascents
350+ summits of Mount Rainier, Washington
1 expedition to Vinson-Massif, Antarctica
14 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina
8 expeditions to Bolivia
2 expeditions to the Ecuadorian Volcanoes
3 expeditions to Mt. Everest - North Col
2004 Mt. Everest Summit
1 expedition to Kanchenjunga
16 expeditions to the Mexican Volcanoes
35 expeditions of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico
1 expedition to Peru
1 expedition to Mt. Elbrus, Russia
7 expeditions to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
1 expedition to Xixipangma
Certifications
Outdoor Emergency Care
Leave No Trace Trainer
AMGA Alpine Guide
MATTHEW EMHTGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Matthew moved up to Alaska 8 years ago after climbing and living between western Washington and the eastern Sierras. He has guided a variety of wilderness trips for twice as long. He is dedicated to rock and ice climbing as well as skiing and split snowboarding; the mountain lifestyle remains his passion. Up north, he has climbed and guided in the Alaska range, Chugach and Kenai mountains, and in the Wrangells where he lives. Other experience includes 3 trips on Aconcagua and climbs in Ecador, Peru, Argentina, and Chile.
Significant Ascents
Denali
Mt. Dickey (ak range)
Middle Troll (ak range)
London Tower (ak range)
Pyramid Peak and multiple unnamed peaks (Wrangells)
Aconcagua (5)
Rainier
Mt. Hood
Devil's Tower
Mt. Conness (Sierras)
Cotopaxi (Ecuador)
Ishinca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru)
Torre Principal (Frey, Argentina)
Aleta del Tiberon (Torres del Paine, Chile)
Certifications
Wilderness EMT
Avalanche Level II
DAVE HEINBACHGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Dave has a passion for helping climbers realize their goals. He has worked for Alpine Ascents since 2006, previously working as a rock climbing guide and ski patroller. A lifelong devotee of outdoor athletic pursuits, he had climbed in Alberta, British Columbia, Washington, California, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Texas, Tennessee, Kentucky, the Virginias, New York, and New Hampshire. Besides mountain climbing, he enjoys road and mountain biking, skiing, and occasionally sitting still long enough to meditate. In addition to guiding, Dave also works as a teacher. When not working in the mountains he is likely to be found playing in the mountains, eating, or napping on his couch. Dave teaches our mountaineering courses in the Cascades, and guides on Rainier, Baker, Shuksan, Eldorado, and Aconcagua.
Significant Ascents
Aconcagua (2 guided)
Rainier (~20 guided)
Baker (~15 guided)
Shuksan
Eldorado
Liberty Bell, Liberty Crack, V 5.9 A2, WA
Yosemite, Higher Cathedral Rock, NE Buttress, IV 5.9, CA
Mt. Goode, NE Buttress, IV 5.5, WA
Squamish, Angel’s Crest, III 5.10, BC
Tetons, Caveat Emptor, III 5.10, WY
Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space, III 5.9, WA
Franconia Notch, Cannon Cliff, Moby Grape, III 5.8, NH
Wind Rivers, Pingora, LH Cracks, III 5.7, WY
Mt. Edith Cavell, East Ridge, III 5.3, AB
Forbidden Peak, W Ridge, III 5.6, WA
Tetons, Exum Ridge, III 5.4, WY
Mt. Triumph, NE Buttress, II 5.7, WA
Icefields Parkway, Elliot Falls Left, III WI4, AB
Ghost River, Beowulf, III WI4, AB
Lake Louise, Louise Falls, II WI4, AB
Mt. Baker, N Ridge, III WI3, WA
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
DEVIN BISHOPGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest, Devin has climbed extensively in the Cascades for over nineteen years and guided for seven. His adventures as a rock climber, alpinist and ski mountaineer have taken him to Alaska, the Sierras, Oregon and British Columbia. Devin is an adventurous spirit who enjoys sharing his enthusiasm for climbing with others. In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, Devin is a rock climbing instructor and route-setter for The Vertical World indoor climbing gym in Everett, WA.
Significant Ascents
Rainier (26, 24 guided)
Denali (1)
Baker (8, 6 guided)
Mt. Hood (1)
Mt. Olympus (1)
Mt. Shuksan (2)
Eldorado (1)
Sahale Peak (2, 1 guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
AIARE Level 2 Avalanche Certified
Awards ;& Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
ELLIE HENKEGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
As an assistant guide, Ellie has added a superb dimension to our domestic and international programs. A naturalist by profession, Ellie has assisted Willi in guiding Aconcagua, Ecuador's Volcanoes, Mt. Baker, Rainier, and teaching classes at the AAMS for over 15 years. A talented artist, she is an asset to every trip she joins, bringing a wealth of experience, cultural knowledge and teaching skills to every expedition. Ellie is our Base Camp Manager on Aconcagua and Mount Everest.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
MICHAEL HORSTGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, RAINIER
Michael grew up climbing and skiing in the mountains of Washington and has been guiding on Mount Rainier and internationally since 2000, with over 100 successful summits on Rainier alone to his credit. He is proficient in the technical aspects of mountain climbing but also the strategic aspects such as planning and executing a multifaceted climb of an 8000 meter peak. Michael is remarkably calm and at ease when climbing at high altitude such as on the summit of Cho Oyu, where he led our entire 2009 team to the summit, and was a leader and summitter on our successful 2009 - 2011 Mount Everest expeditions. in 2011 Michael became the first person in history to climb 2 8000m peaks within 24 hours as a part of our Everest/Lhotse Expedition. In addition to his success and experience in the Himalayas, Michael also has 3 guided ascents of Mount Vinson in Antarctica. Michael exhibits strong leadership abilities in bringing groups of climbers together into cohesive teams. Being a seasoned guide on Rainier has enabled Michael to successfully guide numerous groups to the top of major peaks such as Denali and Aconcagua. Having guided over 10 expeditions to the Mexican Volcanoes, and several expeditions to Ecuador's Volcanoes and Bolivia's high Andean peaks, Michael is not only familiar with climbing the great mountains of South America but is also fluent in Spanish. In addition to climbing, Michael enjoys backcountry skiing, mountain biking, adventure racing, surfing and kite boarding.
Significant Ascents
3 summit of Everest
1 summit of Lhotse (within 24 hours of Everest)
2 summits of Cho Oyu (1 Guided)
2 summits of Denali
107+ summits of Mount Rainier
3 summits of Mount Vinson
3 summits of Mount Whitney
2 summits of Chimborazo and Cotapaxi (Ecuador)
6 climbs of Aconcagua (Argentina)
10 summits of El Pico de Orizaba & Ixtaccihuatl (Mexico)
2004 Subaru Primal Quest
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
FELIPE JACOMEGUIDE, ECUADOR
Felipe has been guiding for us in Ecuador for the past five years. In addition to his vast climbing experience in his native Ecuador, he has traveled and climbed extensively throughout South America and Europe. He has worked for WMI of NOLS, as a Wilderness Medicine Instructor since 2006. For the past 4 years has been the Executive Director for the MINGAI Foundation: an Ecuadorian Non-Profit Organization in charge of teaching Wilderness Medicine Courses, Outdoor Education and Safety courses. Executive Director since Feb 2007. www.mingai.org
Significant Ascents
Ecuador Volcanoes
Peru:
Huascarán Sur
Vallunaraju
Quitaraju
Pisco Oeste
Chacraraju.
Bolivia:
Tarija-Bolivia,
Pequeño Alpamayo
Pirámide Blanca
Sajama
Huayna Potosí
Ancohuma, Aguja Yacuma
Pico Schulze
“Pico de los Guías”
Pico sin nombre (Illampu-massif)
Quimsa Cruz, Illampu
Ice waterfalls in Murarata
Spanish Pyrenees:
Torre de Marfil. 120m 6a
Agujas de Comalestorres: “Laura” 270m 6b,A2
Paret D’Escales: “Miña Terra Galega” 120m 6a A1e
Paret D’Escales: “Sobao Pasiego” 120m, 6a
Cavallers El Casco sector: “the exploited climbers” 40m 6a+,
Peña Montañesa: 250m 6a A1+
Hospitalet –Benasque
“sólo es un quinto” 35m 6a+
“un ecuatoriano en Benasque” 25 m V and “querido profesor” 25m V+
Swiss Alps: WeissKugel, Gschnitzer Tribulaun.
Italy: Sport rock climbs in Arco y Lago di Garda.
Eslovaquia: Chopok-Tatras.
Certifications
Catholic University of Quito, Bachelor degree in Geography and Ecotourism.
International Mountain Guide UIAGM/IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations).
Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association Guide-ASEGUIM
Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician-Instructor
JOHN THOMSONGUIDE, RAINIER, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
John has been guiding since 2005. He graduated in 2007 from Colorado College double majoring in Environmental Science and Sheer Cliff Scaling. The day after graduation he drove to Washington and soon began guiding for Alpine Ascents, first in the Cascades, and later on expeditions to Alaska and Mexico. John guides summit climbs around the Cascades and teaches Six Day Mountaineering Courses. John's list of personal ascents includes mixed alpine climbs in the Alaska Range, alpine rock routes in Washington and British Columbia, and long rock routes in Colorado and Nevada. During the winter season he teaches avalanche education courses. In addition to climbing John is an avid ski mountaineer and has skied extensively in the Western United States, Canada, and Alaska. When not in the mountains John enjoys international travel, reading about current events, and cold PBR. John also speaks Spanish.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
AIARE Level I Course Leader
Avalanche Level III
JIM PURDYGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Jim has been guiding for over 13 and is part of our Denali and Washington guide team. Jim has guided multiple trips of Denali including two successful ascents via the Muldrow glacier. He has also summitted Alaska’s Mt. Foreaker via the Sultana Ridge. Cascades climbs included multiple ascents and many days on Mt. Baker, Mt. Rainier via the Liberty Ridge, Shuksan, Eldorado, Challenger, Sahale and Mt. Olympus to name a few. He has also climbed in the Yukon, Canadian Rockies ( North Face of Athabasca) the Bugaboos and the Tetons.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
BRENT LANGLINAISGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Brent began climbing seriously as a freshman at the University of Alaska. 12 years and thousands of days later he has amassed an impressive and varied resume including significant ascents in 25 states, Alaska, Canada, Mexico, Argentina, Patagonia, and New Zealand. Brent‘s enthusiasm for the mountains is matched only by his passion for teaching as is evident to all the climbers who have learned “the ropes” from him over the years. When not guiding for Alpine Ascents, he can be found at his home in Salt Lake City studying to become a Registered Nurse, or on an extended climbing trip to any number of national parks in the Western United States. Brent has guided many of Washington State’s classic mountaineering routes including dozens of ascents of Mt. Baker and Mt. Rainer, and has worked trips for us on Denali, Aconcagua, and the Volcanoes of Mexico.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Level II Avalanche Certification
AMGA Alpine Guides Course
AMGA Advanced Alpine Guides Course
AJ LINNELLGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
AJ has worked as a guide and instructor for over ten years, leading expeditions in the Rockies, Cascades, Alaska, and the Indian Himalaya. His own climbing and ski expeditions have taken him to spectacular ranges across North America. AJ brings a passion for wild places that began while following his parents on backcountry ski and backpacking tours in the Colorado Rockies, and he loves the thrill of showing people the wildness of remote mountains. In addition to working for Alpine Ascents, AJ is a senior field instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School and lead guide for Yostmark Backcountry Tours. AJ lives in Victor, Idaho with his lovely wife and their dog, and spends his winters exploring the high places of the Tetons on his snowboard and skis.
Significant Ascents
Denali, Alaska (5 guiding; 3 personal, including snowboard descent of the Messner Couloir from the summit)
Mt. Rainier, Washington (10 guiding)
Grand Teton, Wyoming (3 personal, with snowboard descents)
Middle Teton, Wyoming (3 personal, with snowboard descents)
South Teton, Wyoming (2 personal, with snowboard descents)
Buck Mountain, Wyoming (2 personal, with snowboard and telemark ski descents)
Prospector's Mountain, Wyoming (2 personal, with snowboard descents)
Nez Pierce, Wyoming (4 personal, with snowboard descents)
Pioneer Peak, Alaska (1 personal, with telemark ski descent)
Mt. Hood, Oregon (7 personal, with snowboard and telemark ski descents)
2-week ski mountaineering traverse from the Bugaboos to Roger's Pass, British Columbia (personal)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Professional Member of the American Avalanche Association
SARAH CARPENTERGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNT RAINIER
Sarah Carpenter comes to Alpine Ascents with over ten years of professional outdoor experience. Sarah particularly enjoys life on snow and spends her winters skiing and teaching avalanche courses in the west and most often in the Tetons. She is co-owner of the American Avalanche Institute, the oldest avalanche education school in the country. She also ski guides for numerous outfits, including the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, taking skiers out of bounds from the resort. Sarah has had the opportunity to ski, climb and explore many beautiful places, including Alaska, India, Chile, Bolivia, and Mongolia. When not working in the mountains, Sarah can be found adventuring in and around the Tetons.
Return to Top
DON CARPENTERGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNT RAINIER
Don Carpenter has twelve years of experience guiding and teaching in the outdoors. Don works for Alpine Ascents on Denali, Mt. Rainier, and the Cascades. He is also a Senior Instructor with the National Outdoor Leadership School with 170 field weeks in the mountaineering and winter programs. These month long mountaineering expeditions have allowed him to travel extensively through the peaks of the Alaska, Chugach, and Wrangell ranges in Alaska. Don has worked 20 NOLS winter ski expeditions in the mountains of Wyoming and Idaho. His expeditions have taken him to Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Antarctica, Chile, Argentina, and India. Skiing and avalanche forecasting are a passion for Don. He is a co-owner of the American Avalanche Institute in Jackson, WY. His winters are busy teaching avalanche courses for the Institute and skiing. He loves skiing in his local mountains with numerous ski descents and tours in the Tetons. He lives on the west slope of the Tetons with his wife Sarah. Don is also a carpenter and enjoys hunting elk near his home.
Significant Ascents
6 climbs Denali (3 guided)
4 via West Buttress, 2 via Muldrow Glacier
Mt. Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains, Alaska
Mount Marcus Baker (guided), Alaska
2 climbs Mt. Vinson (guided) Antarctica
28 climbs Mt. Rainier (guided)
2 climbs Mt. Baker (guided)
1 day climb and ski descent of Mt. Rainier via Fuhrer Finger
Tordrillos Mountains, Alaska; 10 day ski mountaineering expedition
Central Chile and Argentina; 20 day ski mountaineering expedition
Ladakh Northern India; trekking and climbing expedition to Stok Kangre and Kang Yatze
Numerous ski tours and descents in the Tetons
NOLS expeditions (170 field weeks)
8 month long Alaska mountaineering expeditions—Chugach and Alaska Ranges
1 month long Pacific Northwest expedition—Glacier Peak
20 2-3 week winter ski expeditions, Wyoming and Idaho
Garhwal Himalaya India mountaineering expedition
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder/CPR
Avalanche Level 3
AMGA Ski Guide Course
WESLEY MCCAINGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Wesley loves climbing and it is an incredible reason to travel. Wesley is based in Seattle and loves to explore the many ranges in North America. Various trips to the mountains have included personal trips to the Washington Volcanoes, the North Cascades, the Sierras, the Canadian Rockies, the West Coast Range of BC, the Volcanoes of Mexico. Rock Climbing trips have range from the classic cracks of the east, sandstone sloppers and pockets of the south, and classic granite destinations of the west. Adventure Running in the mountains was originally a way to get in shape for climbing, but is now another way cover a lot of ground and enjoy the hills. Any excuse to be in the mountains on ice, crack climbing, sport climbing, alpine climbing, bouldering, or just for a long run. Wesley loves running and climbing.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
VICTOR MCNEILGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Victor began exploring the cascades in his native state of Oregon at a young age. His mountaineering background began while attending Southern Oregon University, taking winter mountaineering courses. With the allure of the nearby Mt Shasta, Victor began guiding there while finishing school. Working on Mt Shasta opened the door to new explorations, including working in the Wallowa Mountains of Northeast OR guiding multi-day backcountry ski trips out of yurts. Climbing and backcountry skiing has taken Victor to Argentina and Chile and regionally in the North Cascades,Tetons, and Sierra mountains. When not in the mountains, Victor can often be found rock climbing and steelhead fishing.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
RICH MEYERGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Rich has been guiding for over ten years. His adventures vary from single day backcountry ski tours, to expeditions in Alaska, and trekking in Bhutan. Guiding peaks such as Denali, Rainier, Shasta, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and various Sierra Nevada summits are just one part of Rich’s career. He is also frequently teaching avalanche courses, glacier travel courses, crevasse rescue courses, and ski mountaineering courses. Rich is constantly striving to improve and expand his skills with extensive education from: the AMGA, AIARE, NOLS, WMI, PSIA, and many other organizations. Rich has been fortunate to have guiding take him to places like: Alaska, Canada, Chile, Argentina, France, Switzerland, and throughout the western United States. Rich is focused on safety and communication, and looking forward to his next adventure.
Certifications
Leave No Trace, certified trainer
Wilderness First Responder
AIARE level I II III
AIARE certified avalanche instructor
Professional member, American Avalanche Association
PETER MOOREGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Peter is a Northwest native hooked on the green forests and snow-capped, rocky peaks of the Cascades. He enjoys long bushwacks to uncrowded peaks, summiting at sunrise and good coffee in the mountains. In the summer you can see him cruising over glaciers and following rocky ridges. In the winter you'll likely find him on long ski tours hunting for new places to ski.
Significant Ascents
Mt Rainier (4 ascents by 3 routes, 1 in winter, 1 single push, 1 ski descent)
Mt Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys, White Salmon-ski descent, N Face)
Mt Baker (Coleman-Deming ski descent)
Dragontail Peak (Triple Couliors in winter)
Snow Creek Wall (Outerspace III, 5.9; Mary Jane Dihedral III, 5.9+)
3 O'Clock Rock (Total Soul III, 5.10b; Silent Running II 5.9+)
Mt Triumph (NE Ridge III, 5.6)
Certifications
Avalanche Level I and II
Leave No Trace Trainer
W-EMT
MATTHEW NIGHTENGALEGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Born and raised in Oregon, Matthew learned to climb on the mountains and crags of the Pacific Northwest. While completing a B.S. in Environmental Economics, Matthew was the Eastern Oregon University Outdoor Program Director where he introduced students to mountaineering, rock climbing, and other outdoor activities. Matthew has rock climbed across the west including areas such as the Enchantments, Leavenworth, Smith Rocks, City of Rocks, Red Rocks, and Joshua Tree. When not climbing, Matthew enjoys cooking, and more importantly eating good food while spending time with his lady.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
JONATHON SPITZERGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Jonathon grew up hiking, climbing, and skiing around Washington State. He received his bachelors degree from Western State College of Colorado in recreation and business. These days his hobby has become his profession, and he can be found splitting his time between Washington, Utah, Nevada, California and Europe. After spending four years going through the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA/IFMGA) training program, Jonathon passed his final exam in the fall of 2009 and became the second youngest American to be fully certified in all three disciplines (rock, alpine and ski). During the spring and summer months he guides throughout the Cascades, the Alaska Range, British Columbia, French Alps and in Red Rock, NV. In the winter, he is a professional helicopter ski guide and avalanche educator. With trips to the Ecuador volcanoes, Denali, Mt. Waddington, and various other places in North America, he has significant expedition climbing experience as well as being a competent technical climber.
Certifications
IFMGA Certified Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide
AIARE Avalanche Level III
EMT License
Leave No Trace
Awards & Recognition
Black Diamond Equipment: Field Tester/Product Development Team
Outdoor Research Clothing Connector Program
2008 W.L Gore Scholarship
CARRIE PARKER GUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Carrie grew up in the flatlands of the Midwest and developed her love of climbing during college at the University of Oregon. Originally heading west to play lacrosse, Carrie quit the sport after visiting the local climbing gym where she developed an immediate addiction. In the fall, Carrie heads back east to hone her skills on some of the best sport climbing the United States has to offer, the Red River Gorge, of Slade, Kentucky. A wilderness EMT instructor for Remote Medical International, Carrie has a passion for patient care, and can be found teaching numerous first aid, wilderness first responder, and wilderness EMT courses. She has a B.A. in Natural Hazard Mitigation and Accident Response from the University of Oregon, and hopes someday to move back to Las Vegas, NV where she used to work as a Paramedic. This is her 4th year guiding professionally on Mount Rainier and in Alaska.
Significant Ascents
30+ ascents of Mount Rainier via four routes (14,410')
1 Denali summit and expedition (20,320')
Extensive rock climbing throughout Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Washington, Oregon, Idaho, California, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Canada
Rock leads up to 5.12b (sport), 5.10 (traditional)
In June of 2010, ranked 29th in the US for sport climbing females on 8a.nu
Certifications
Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician- Paramedic
Basic Life Support Instructor/ EMT Instructor
CPR for the Professional Rescuer
Pre-Hospital Trauma Life Support
Advanced Cardiac Life Support and Pediatric Advanced Life Support
AAIRE Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Trainer
PAT TIMSON 
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Pat has been climbing and guiding around the world for over twenty five years. A highly accomplished alpinist, his notable domestic climbs include over twenty ascents of Mt. Baker and Rainier, four ascents on Denali, and countless climbs in the northwest and internationally. In addition to his incredible alpine skills, Pat possesses a strong background in technical ice climbing. Pat leads a number of our technical private climbs as well as expeditions to Aconcagua. Pat is a legend in the climbing world, where his strength, agility and calm demeanor place him among the world's most respected climbers. We are simply thrilled to have him as a member of our guiding staff.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
BRIEN SHEEDYGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, ACONCAGUA, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Brien brings a wealth of climbing, teaching and international experience to Alpine Ascents International. Brien has climbed the highest peak on every continent and has guided all over the world. He is proficient in rock, ice, big walls and high altitude climbing. He loves leading expeditions to remote hard to reach locations and helping people push their limits and succeed at difficult challenges. Most recently, Brien successfully guided our 2011 Cho-Oyu Expedition.
In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, Brien has been the Director of Outdoor Programs at Whitman College in Walla Walla, WA since 2001 and is a Senior Instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School where he started in 1991 and worked for over a decade, accumulating over 215 field weeks. He has led courses and expeditions all over the western US and Canada and worked roughly four years out of the country between Kenya, India, Chile, Argentina and Mexico. He holds a Bachelor’s degree in Environmental Studies from SUNY ESF at Syracuse and a Master’s Degree in Geography from the University of Texas at Austin where he studied Nepali for two years and conducted his thesis research on ecotourism in Nepal.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Master Trainer
AMGA CWI Course Instructor
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
AMGA Alpine Guide Course
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
Significant Ascents
Everest
Vinson
Cho-Oyu
Carstensz Pyramid
Denali (4)
Aconcagua
Elbrus
Kilimanjaro
Desert Sheild, A3+, Zion NP
Space Shot, A2, Zion NP
Moonlight Butress, A2, Zion NP
Prodigal Son, A2 , Zion NP
Lurking Fear, Yosemite A2
Ice Window Route, Mt. Kenya WI 3+(17 pitches)
Mt. Kenya North Ridge 5.10 (32 pitches)
Mt. Kenya (10+)
East Butress, Middle Cathedral, Yosemite, 5.10c (11 pithches)
Northeast Butress Higher Cathedral, Yosemite, 5.10 (12 pitches)
Crest Jewel 5.10b, North Dome, Yosemite
Eichhorn Pinical 5.10
Waddington Range, Peak 2968m (2nd ascent) 11 pitches, WI 4, guiding
1 year guiding in Chile
2 5 week Himachel Pradesh Expeditions in Northern India
Ixtaciuatl, La Arista de Sol
Popocatepetl, El Ventorillo Route
Liberty Ridge, Rainier
Rainier, WA (+15)
Baker, WA (2)
Adams, WA (2)
Glacier Peak, WA (4)
Mt. Hood, OR (many)
Logan, WA (Cascades) (2)
Mera Peak Expedition, Nepal
Chugatch traverse
Patagonia Ice field traverse of the Campo del Hielo Sur, Chile
Talkeetna Mountains Traverse (3)
Other areas: Bariloche, Argentia; Kalymnos, Greece; Mt Kenya region, Indonesia; Patagonia, Squamish, BC; Cascades, Vantage, Spring Mt., Anthony Lakes, City of Rocks, Smith Rocks, Tuolome, Cochise StrongHold, Adirondacks, White horse, Cathedral, Mt. Washington, Seneca Rocks, Poke-o-moonshine, Frankenstien, Mt. Washington, Boulder Canyon, Cody, Ouray, Cascades
ERIC MURPHYSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
A talented climber and guide, Eric leads many of our mountaineering courses in the Cascades. He has been climbing for 16 years, and has guided trips for 10 years. Eric has vast experience in the Cascades, Rockies and Andes ranges, with expeditions to Alaska, Canada, Antarctica, Nepal, Tibet, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. Argentine and Chilean Patagonia has been a recent focus, with an ascent of Fitzroy, and exploration on the Southern Patagonian Icecap. His background covers technical ice, rock, and high altitude. Over the last 12 years, he has developed climbing curriculums for local organizations. Eric has guided for us in the Cascades, on Denali, Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu and Aconcagua for the past 8 years. Most recently Eric guided for us on Mt. Rainier, Kilimanjaro and Denali in 2008. Other passions include ski mountaineering, ocean sailing, and winemaking. Eric has recently opened a small, boutique winery on Whidbey Island, near to Seattle. See www.swedehillcellars.com for more information.
Significant Ascents
Denali (9 guided, 2 personal)
Kilimanjaro (10+ guided)
Aconcagua (6 guided, 1 personal)
Vinson (5 guided)
Shinn (1 guided)
Fitzroy (2 personal)
Poincenot (2 personal)
Huascuran Sur (2 Personal)
Alpamayo (1 personal)
Chopicalqui (1 personal)
Huandoy Este (1 personal)
Huanya Potosi (1 personal)
Mooses Tooth (2 personal)
Mt Kenya (1 personal)
Mt Slesse (2 personal)
Rainer (25+ guided, 6 routes, winter)
Baker (40+ guided, winter, ski)
Glacier Peak (3 personal)
Adams (2 personal)
Shasta (winter, ski)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
DAVID MORTONSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
A long-time Northwest climber, David is now one of the premier international expedition guides and leaders operating today. He has guided and climbed throughout the Cascades, South America, the Himalaya, Altai, Alaska Range, and Russia. He has traveled and climbed extensively over his lifetime and has worked as a full-time guide for Alpine Ascents since 2001. A natural leader, David has been described as the ultimate guide, instructor and friend while still spending time on a number of technical personal climbs in the Himalaya, Alaska and South America. Dave has led expeditions to all of the Seven Summits as well as climbs and expeditions in Mongolia, Mexico, Bolivia and other Himalayan peaks. He has guided to the top of Carstensz Pyramid on four occasions.
He is also an important addition to our instructional courses in the Cascades. David enjoys teaching the fundamentals and guides technical ascents such as Ama Dablam while enjoying city life with our groups in between climbs. His grasp for languages, history and climbing has made him both an educated and successful guide on all our programs. His broad knowledge of Nepali history and politics makes his expeditions particularly memorable. He recently climbed a new route on Mt. Vinson with Todd Passey and in 2002 received the AAC Mountain Adventure Award grant. In 2008 he reached the summit of Everest for the fifth team in as many years. During his 2004-2008 seasons on Everest, 90 climbers reached the summit under his guidance. In multiple winters he has given his time instructing at the Khumbu Climbing School and continues to support the program in a variety of ways.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Awards & Recognition
2002 AAC Mountain Adventure Award
GARRETT MADISONEXPEDITION MANAGER, GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNT RAINIER
Garrett has been a professional guide for 12 years and over that time his passion for mountain climbing has resulted in expeditions to peaks in the Americas such as Denali, Rainier, the Super volcanoes such as El Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, Cotopaxi and Cayambe in Ecuador, high peaks in Peru, and the stone Sentinel of South America, Aconcagua. He was a leader and summiter on our successful 2009-2011 Mount Everest expeditions. In 2011 Garrett became the first person to successfully guide a client to the top of two 8000m peaks as a part of our Everest/Lhotse Expedition. Garrett has also lived and traveled extensively in Europe, skiing and climbing in the Alps. Climbing Kilimanjaro is one of his favorites, especially in combination with a game viewing safari after the climb. Garrett has been on several expeditions to the Himalaya such as Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Mt. Everest. Spending half his year in the office balancing his job as Expedition Manager for Alpine Ascents as well as guiding a fair amount provides an excellent opportunity to constantly develop and perfect one of his favorite aspects related to climbing, training! Garrett is busy in the summer months devoting much of his time to working in the field with our Rainier program.
Significant Guided Ascents
4 ascents of Mt. Everest, (2006, 2009 - 2011)
140 ascents of Mt. Rainier
3 expeditions to Denali
8 expeditions to Aconcagua
3 expedition to Mt. Vinson
1 expedition to Kilimanjaro
1 expedition to Ecuador’s Volcanoes (Cayambe & Cotopaxi)
1 expedition to Peru’s Cordillera Blanca
5 expeditions to Mexico’s Orizaba
1 expedition to Cho Oyu (Tibet)
1 expedition to Ama Dablam (Nepal)
Personal Climbs
6 ascents of Mont Blanc
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
CPR
Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
DAVE KRATSCHGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL, ACONCAGUA
Proficient in ice climbing, rock climbing and technical mountaineering, David has been teaching mountaineering for the past eight years. A renowned leader, David has done much of his guiding in Cascades, Rockies, Denali and recently Cho Oyu in Tibet. Being level III certified in avalanche safety gives makes him essential for teaching avalanche awareness and early season climbing. He also instructs ice climbing, rock climbing, ski mountaineering, self-rescue and high angle rescue rigging. When he is not climbing you might find him Avalanche Forecasting, explosive avalanche control work, ski patrolling or fly fishing on some river in Montana.
Significant Ascents
Amegieno, Argentina
Aconcagua Polish Glacier (4 successful summits), Argentina
Denali West Buttress (5 Successful summits), Alaska
Mt Baker, Easton Glacier, Sawk, North Ridge, Colman Deming (40)
One Expedition to Cho Oyu, Himalayas
Glacier Peak Frostbite Ridge
Eldorado, East Ridge, North Ridge 5.7, NE Face AI4 (30+ Summits)
Forbidden Peak West Ridge
Mt Rainier, Emmons, D/C, Ptarmigan Ridge, Liberty Ridge, Winthrop, and other routes (39)
Mt Shuksan, Sulfide Glacier Ski tours and Mountaineering Courses (32)
Various expeditions in Glacier Park and Beartoots, MT
Various Ski tours, Ice climbs and Rock climbs In the Canadian Rockies, Montana, Oregon, Washington, California, and Wyoming
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Wilderness EMT-B
Outdoor Emergency Care
ERIC LARSON SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Versed in rock climbing, ice climbing and technical mountaineering, Eric has been teaching mountaineering for the past twelve years. An established leader, Eric has done much of his guiding in Colorado and is well versed in avalanche safety and first aid. He is assistant director of snow safety at Telluride and he has been on patrol there for over 7 years. His Alaska experience includes multiple routes on Denali, climbs of Moose's Tooth, Gargoyle Wall, Mt. Barrell, Kahiltna Dome, Frances, Crosson, and many others. Eric has guided for the past six seasons on Denali with great success and taught courses at our mountaineering school in Alaska and the Cascades. Eric has guided three expeditions to Cho-Oyu.
Certifications
Wilderness EMT
Avalanche Level II
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
ERIC SALAZAR GUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Originally from San Diego, California, Eric learned to rock climb in Joshua Tree National Park and surrounding areas of southern California. Shortly after learning to climb, he began leading teenagers on backpacking and rock climbing trips around the country. After ten years of teaching outdoor education, Eric has made a career of traveling, guiding and teaching. He currently lives in Seattle, Washington where he works as a part-time high school teacher and spends his free time climbing in the Cascades. Eric has worked for several guide services and outdoor education companies including the National Outdoor Leadership School, BOLD Mountain School, and Naturalists at Large. Some of Eric’s favorite climbing areas include the Wind River range, Tetons, Red Rock Canyon, Joshua Tree National Park and the Chugach Mountains. When not guiding or teaching, Eric is in the mountains climbing with his buddies, traveling, or fly fishing. Eric loves guiding because he gets to share his passion for the mountains.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Avalanch Level 1
LNT Trainer
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
JOHN HAUFGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
Trained as a climber and wildlife biologist, John has had a special affinity for wild places ever since he was a child. He is an educator, mountaineer, explorer, entrepreneur and true believer in the power of trust, respect and tolerance. He is our African/Kilimanjaro expert having lived in Kenya where he became fluent in Kiswahili. John also has a special attraction to Patagonia's Northern Ice Field where he has conducted numerous expeditions. He has climbed extensively in South America, Europe, Africa, Asia, and North America, including Kilimanjaro, Denali, Aconcagua, Mexico, Yosemite and New Zealand. During his 24-year long career with the National Outdoor Leadership School he accumulated 300+ field weeks and founded and directed the Patagonia Branch in southern Chile for fifteen years. John is a member of Chile's National Committee on Safety and Risk Prevention in Mountain Sports and a private outdoor risk management consultant. Recently John guided for us on Denali and we look forward to him guiding our Kilimanjaro Climbs in 2008. John is extremely excited to be returning to East Africa and Mount Kilimanjaro and is brushing up on the Kiswahili he learned while living in nearby Kenya some years ago. Trained as a wildlife biologist, he is also looking forward to being on safari and surrounded by many "large, charismatic mega-vertebrates." Most recently John led our successful 2004-2008 Kilimanjaro Seasons. He has had many trips with 100% success and has helped hundreds of climbers to the summit. John is one of the best Kili guides around and an honor to be on the mountain with.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
DAVE WATSONGUIDE, RAINIER
Dave hails from the Northeastern US and currently lives in the Columbia River Gorge. His background lies in rock, ice and ski guiding as well as outdoor education. Dave's personal climbing pursuits have taken him around the world, 2 summits of Mount Everest, ski descent of K2 from 8350 meters, Broad Peak, Eiger, 3 winters of skiing in the Indian Himalaya, sport climbing in Italy and alpine rock in Alaska are some highlights. With over a decade of ski patrol experience, Dave now spends his winters patrolling on Mt Hood. Visit K2Tracks.com for more information.
Certifications
Level I & II Avalanche
Leave No Trace Trainer
Outdoor Emergency Care
Wilderness First Responder
CPR for the Professional Rescuer
Certified Rope Access Technician
PSIA Nordic