Guide Staff
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KIRAH SOLOMONGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Growing up in Colorado, Kirah began her climbing and skiing education in the Rocky Mountains and, after graduating from college, continued her studies on the Cascade Volcanoes of the Pacific Northwest. She began her guiding career on Mount Shasta and in the Eastern Sierra on Mt. Whitney and, in 2009, she guided on Aconcagua in Argentina. Since 1997 she has expanded her knowledge of rock and ice climbing in locations like Estes Park, Smith Rock, Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Owens River Gorge, Red Rocks, Indian Creek, and Little Cottonwood Canyon. Kirah is a professional ski patroller in Park City and enjoys backcountry ski trips in Utah's many mountains. With education from organizations such as AMGA, APP, AIARE, PSIA, and LNT, Kirah is able to pair professional training with her natural enthusiasm for climbing and revel in sharing it with others. When not playing outside she might be found reading, practicing Spanish, or enjoying the company of her animal friends.
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LAUREN DITOLLAGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Lauren has been working as climbing and mountaineering instructor for NOLS for the past six years. She has lead trips in Alaska, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, and Idaho, and has spent many seasons playing and working in the Alaska Range, the Chugach, and the Wrangells. Lauren has done three trips on Denali, and loves the mountains of Alaska. In the winter, she ski patrols in Utah and works closely with the Avalanche Dog program in the Wasatch. Lauren has a BA from University of Iowa, where she played Division I field hockey for 4 years. In her spare time, she climbs and skis whenever she can, based out of her home in Salt Lake City. She has done personal traveling throughout China, Tibet, Nepal, Mongolia, and Russia.
Certifications
WFR and CPR
Avalanche Level II
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
WBR Certified A-Avalance Dog Handler
LEE LAZZARAGUIDE, RAINIER, CASCADES
Talk about hitting the jackpot... Lee made the move from suburban New Jersey to the good times and even better snow of Park City at age 16 and has called Utah home ever since. Finding a life in the mountains has taken him through a variety of work – from groveling as a ski resort dishwasher, to learning the mysteries of snow shoveling and hot tub maintenance, finally graduating to the world of ski patrolling and mountain guiding. He comes to his first year at Alpine Ascents with three years of ski and mountain guiding experience and first ascents in such far flung locations as Utah, Washington and Argentina. He moonlights as a freelance writer, speaks Spanish at a 1st grade level and plays guitar somewhat well.
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CECELIA MORTENSONGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, CASCADES
Cece has climbed, guided or traveled on 6 continents, including Antarctica, where she was the lead field mountaineer for the US Antarctic Program. Cece has guided expeditions to Aconcagua, Denali, multi-summit tours to Bolivia, traverses of the Northern Patagonia ice-cap, climbs of the volcanoes of Mexico and led numerous climbs up Ranier, Baker and other more technical peaks of the Cascades. She also works as a tail-guide in the winter at Canadian Cat skiing operations. In addition to her work as a mountain guide, Cece also works as a rope access specialist – guiding engineers into vertical spaces inside dams.
Personal mountain journeys include 2 expeditions to the Himalaya; a traverse of the crown jewel of British Columbia – Mt. Waddington; an ascent of Mt Fairweahter in Alaska – from the ocean, a 6-week ski mountaineering traverse on the Taku, Jueau and Stikkine Icefields in Alaska; and explorations in the Japanese, New Zealand and the French Alps. When not alpine climbing or guiding, depending on the season, you will likely find Cece searching out perfect crack climbing in Squamish or Zion, ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, or ski-mountaineering in the mountains of Canada.
Recently, Cece is working through her Canadian Mountain Guide Certifications. When journeying into the mountains with Cecelia, you will immediately sense her passion for climbing, guiding and ultimately, for inspiring others to live life to its fullest by taking one step closer to making their dreams a reality.
Certifications
ACMG Assistant Rock Guide
Canadian Avalanche Association Level 1
OFA Level III Medical Training
SPRATT Level III
Rigging for Rescue
EITAN GREENGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Originally from the Boston area Eitan cut his teeth climbing and guiding in the white mountains of New Hampshire and on the sea cliffs of Maine. Duriong his time at Colby College in Maine Eitan spent a semseter in the Darjeeling hills, the foot hills of the Himalaya in India and became fluent in Nepali. After graduating with a degree in anthropology, Eitan headed to guide the big mountains in Washington in the summer and in ice climbing in Ouray, Colorado in the winter. Eitan has climbed extensively throughout the United States and in Canada too. See more at http://inthehillsandontherocks.blogspot.com
Significant Climbs
Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier, Disappointment Clever, and Edmonds Head Wall, WA
Guiding on Mount Baker, WA
Guiding an ascent of Forbidden Peak, Boston Basin, WA
Guiding an ascent of Shark's Fin Tower, Boston Basin, WA
Treks to 18,000 feet in Sikkim, India
Ascent of the Chief in Squamish, BC
Ascent of the Grand Teton and Middle Teton, WY
Many winter ascents of Mount Washington, NH
2 winter expeditions to Mount Katahdin, ME
Portland Marathon Finnisher 3:34:27
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
ERICA LORENZENGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Erica has worked as a guide and instructor for fifteen years, leading expeditions in the Rockies, Cascades, Canyonlands, Alaska, and Patagonia. On her own time, she has climbed, trekked, and horse-packed in Bolivia, Mongolia, Kashmir, Nepal and all over the United States. She adores wild places, particularly those that have lots of ice and snow and loves working with people from all over the world. In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, Erica is a senior field instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School and a science teacher at the Bush School. Erica lives in Seattle, where she spends her free time racing bikes, backcountry skiing in the Cascades, and trying to make vegetables grow in her garden.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
RACHEL GREENBERGGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Rachel has been working in the outdoor industry since 2000. She has climbed throughout the western United States and in countries like Argentina and New Zealand. Rachel has guided all over Utah, Washington and Alaska. Originally from Portland, Maine, she went to school in Colorado where she was first introduced to technical climbing. She now calls Seattle home and is pursuing a second degree in nursing when she is not out working or playing in the mountains.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Leave Not Trace Trainer
Avalanche Level II
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
CAROLINE GEORGEGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Born in the heart of the Swiss Alps, Caroline was immersed in the mountain culture from the time she was born. Every holiday with her family was spent traveling the world, using climbing as a way to discover new places and cultures. Upon graduating from law school, Caroline took a sabbatical to compete in the Ice Climbing World cup and travel to Nepal, before returning to law. But her passion for climbing soon took over and she traded in her lawyer’s outfit for one of ropes, crampons, ice axes and skis. Climbing has taken Caroline to the far reaches of the world, putting first ascents in Ethiopia, Iceland and Canada. Recently, Caroline traveled to Nepal to guide for the Khumbu Climbing School (www.alexlowe.org/kcs). Caroline is currently pursuing her full IFMGA / AMGA certification – the highest standard achievable in the guiding world. She calls Salt Lake City home. You can keep track of Caroline’s many adventures on her blog: carolinegeorge.blogspot.com.
Certifications
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
ADAM GEORGEGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Growing up and learning to climb in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, Adam joins Alpine Ascents with more than 15 years of climbing experience. Adam's passion for the mountains has taken him around the world including trips to: Morocco, Argentina, New Zealand, Australia, Thailand, India, Nepal, Alaska, throughout the Alps and of course extensive climbing througout the US. Adam has guided thoughout the American West, New England and in the European Alps. He is currently an AMGA/IFMGA "Aspirant" guide working his way towards full IFMGA certification. Adam is currently based out of Salt Lake City and can be found enjoying the Wasatch powder or Southern Utah's desert rock climbing.
Significant Ascents
Mt. Cook, NZ (2 personal)
Mt. Tasman , NZ(1 personal)
Denali, AK (1 personal)
Mount Blanc, FR(6 guided 2 personal)
Grands Jorasses, FR (1 personal winter)
El Capitain, CA (6 personal)
Half Dome, CA (6personal)
Certifications
AMGA/IFMGA Aspirant Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Levl III
Wilderness First Responder
DMITRY SIDOROVGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
By age of 25 Dmitry became an accomplished alpinist with gold medals in USSR/Russia national climbing championships to his credit. Dmitry completed USSR "Instructor of Alpinism" school and IMGA/UIAA guide training program. Search of adventure and work led Dmitry to USA where he worked as Outward Bound School instructor, professional ski patroller, mountain guide for last 12 years. Today with an anchor in Anchorage, AK Dmitry splits his professional time between working in health care industry and sharing his passion for mountaineering with the world. His major addictions include XC skiing, ski touring, biking, fishing, baking bread and brewing beer, making felted slippers, playing guitar and dancing, traveling and climbing around the world.
Significant Ascents
Elbrus (2 personal)
Peak Communism - 24,590 ft (1 personal)
Peak Korzhenevskaya - 23,310 ft (2 personal)
Khan-Tengry - 22,949 ft (2 personal)
Denali (1 personal)
Aconcagua (2 guided)
Orizaba/La Malinche (1 personal)
Rainier (2 personal, 6 guided)
Baker (5 personal, over 30 guided)
Glacier (1 personal)
Garibaldi (1 guided)
Shuksan (1 guided)
Eldorado (1 guided)
Forbidden (3 guided)
Certifications
LENSA guide
Wilderness First Responder
BEN JONESGUIDE, DENALI, SCHOOL, INTERNATIONAL
Ben Jones has spent the last 7 years working as a professional guide and instructor in Alaska, Wyoming, Washington, British Columbia, Norway, Argentina, and Mexico. Ben is competent on rock, ice, and snow but spends a majority of his time in the snow. As a senior instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School, Ben has instructed courses in mountaineering, backcountry skiing, snowboarding, and horsepacking. While teaching mountaineering at NOLS, Ben got to extensively explore the glaciers of the Chugach mountains, Wrangells, eastern Alaska range, and remote mountains in British Columbia. In the Fall Ben also has kept busy as a wilderness big game hunting guide in Wyoming. In the off season, while residing in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, Ben’s hobbies include metal work, blacksmithing, running, skiing, climbing, fixing things, and practicing Spanish. Ben guides for us in Alaska, South America, and in Washington State.
Significant Ascents
3 expeditions to Denali including the Muldrow Glacier (2 ascents, 2 guided, 1 personal)
1 expedition to Mt. Foraker
1 expedition to Mt. Marcus Baker, Chugach, Alaska (guided)
1 expedition to Mt. Waddington, British, Columbia (guided)
10+ ascents of Mt. Rainier via 3 routes
1 ski descent of Mt. Rainier via Fuhrer Finger
5 ascents of Mt. Baker
3 ascents of Mt. Shuksan
2 ascents of Mt. Hood
2 ascents of Mt. Athabasca, BC
3 ascents of The Grand Teton, summer and winter
1 ascent of Aconcagua, Argentina
1 ascent of Picacho Del Diablo in Baja California, Mexico (Baja’s highest peak) (guided)
1 ascent of Galdhopiggen, Norway (highest peak) (guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder/ CPR
Level II Avalanche
Leave No Trace Master Trainer
KAJSA KRIEGERGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Kajsa comes to Alpine Ascents with four years of guiding experience in Wyoming, Alaska, and California. She has spent the last two summers leading mountaineering trips for Shasta Mountain Guides, reaching the summit of Shasta over thirty times. Kajsa is a skier at heart and spends her winter in the Tetons, working on the Jackson Hole Ski Patrol and backcountry skiing. Most notable ski descents include Denali’s West Buttress, Mount Cook of the St. Elias Range, and the Grand Teton. When off the snow, Kajsa can be found running, mountain biking, and fly fishing with her favorite backcountry partner, her mutt Rally.
Certifications
EMT-B National Registry
Wilderness EMT
OEC
American Heart Association – CPR & AED
Avalanche Level III
PHIL MARINOGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Phil comes to Alpine Ascents with seven years of guiding experience throughout the west, including the Cascades, Red Rocks, Alaska and California. He has climbed extensively throughout the mountains of the western US, including big wall routes in Yosemite and the desert Southwest. He has made numerous rock and ice ascents in the North Cascades, focusing more recently on the range's spectacular ski touring. Lately Phil has been focusing on ski expeditions/traverses in the Selkirk and Waddington ranges of British Columbia, with a planned ski descent of Mt. Waddington. When not in the mountains Phil can be found enjoying the warm granite of his home, Leavenworth, Wa. Return to Top of Page
JOHNNY RUTKOWSKIGUIDE, DENALI, CASCADES
Johnny began his love for the outdoors growing up on a potato farm in Middletown, Delaware. He got into rock climbing in college and soon progressed to climbing ice and mountains. After spending a year in Iraq with the army he drove across the US twice in his pickup getting to know some of North America's great climbing destinations such as The Gunks, Seneca Rocks, Eldorado Canyon, Squamish and others. He was in New Zealand from August '07 to March '10 guiding glacier hikes on the Franz Josef Glacier. His time in New Zealand was most treasured however during many extensive treks and climbs throughout the heart of the Southern Alps. Some select favorite mountains include Mt Cook and Mt Tasman of New Zealand and Illinisa Sur of Ecuador. When he's not climbing he enjoys playing bluegrass music on the guitar, mandolin, fiddle and banjo.
Significant Ascents
Mt Rainier (5 guided 2 personal)
Mt Baker (1guided 2 personal 1 ski descent)
Mt Cook NZ (1 personal)
Mt Tasman NZ (1 personal)
Illinisa Sur Ecuador (1 personal)
Certifications
NZ Pre-Hospital Emergency Care
NZ Professional Avalanche Rescue Stage 1
Wilderness First Responder
DAVID WEBERGUIDE, DENALI
Dave hails from Salt Lake City, Utah and has worked as a guide and instructor for the past nine years. He has lead expeditions in Alaska, the Rockies, the Cascades, Patagonia, and the Himalayas of Nepal and India. Dave also works as a climbing ranger for the National Park Service, a lead instructor for Remote Rescue Training at the University of Utah, a senior field instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School, a lead instructor for the Wilderness Medicine Institute, and on ski patrol at Brighton Resort in Utah.
Certifications
Wilderness EMT
Level III Avalanche
Leave No Trace Master Trainer
Significant Ascents
Denali (1 guided, 1 personal)
Aconcagua (1 guided, 1 personal)
Cotopaxi (1 personal)
Chimborazo (2 personal attempts)
Cayambe (1 personal)
North Illiniza (1 personal)
South Illiniza (1 personal)
Huayna Potosi (1 personal)
Illimani (1 personal)
Condoriri (1 personal)
Chacaltaya (1 personal)
Island Peak (1 personal)
Pumori (1 personal attempt)
Ben Nevis (numerous personal)
Mount Rainier (numerous personal)
Mount Baker (1 personal)
Mount Hood (1 personal)
Mount Adams (1 personal)
Mount Shukson (1 personal)
Mount Shasta (1 personal)
Lassen Peak (1 personal)
Grand Teton (numerous personal)
ALEX EVERETTGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, CASCADES
Alex came to Alpine Ascents in early 2008 and led a successful climb up Denali’s West Buttress. A NOLS guide for the last 8 years Alex has demonstrated superb leadership skills in mountaineering and has climbed extensively in the Alaska Range, Chugach and the Wrangells. When not guiding for Alpine Ascents Alex makes his home in Jackson Hole Wyoming, and climbs and skis regularly in the Tetons. In addition to leading mountaineering programs in the Tetons, Alex has led courses in the Snake River Range. In his career at NOLS Alex lead programs in mountaineering, sea kayaking, and hiking.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Significant Ascents
Mt. Blackburn, Marcus Baker, The White Princess (E. AK Range), Rainier, Baker 02-07
Numerous one day ski mountaineering routes in the Tetons in 01-08
Wind River Range 10 day solo ski tour (Titcomb Basin) 01
Pioneer Peak, AK 02
Denali via the West Rib and ski the Messner Couloir in 08
Personal Climbing and Travel:
Ice climbing in the Mt. Washington valley to WI 4 07
1-2 weeks each in Smith Rocks, Joshua Tree, Indian Creek, Squamish, Cirques of the Towers, Acadia National Park, and elsewhere. Trad leading to 5.10 98-present.
500 mile horse and fly fishing tirp. Arkangai Province, Central Mongolia 04. Cates of the Arctics (Anaktuvik Pass to Bettles) N fork Koyukuk River 03
Running dogs for top Iditarod musher, McKinley Village, AK 03
30 day intensive Spanish language training, Guatemala 02
Copper River 7 days to Cordova 01
25 day bike tour Panama to Nicaragua 99
30 day Rome to Istanbul 97
DAVE GRUSSGUIDE, DENALI
Dave has been climbing for 12 years and has guided for Shasta Mt. Guides teaching glacier courses, summit trips, and the occasional ski mountaineering trip in the San Juans of Co., Sierra Nevada, Chamonix, France, Verbier, Switzerland, and Slovenia. He has been on climbing expeditions to Chile, Peru, Nepal. He also has several climbs of big-walls in Zion N.P. and extensive climbing throughout the western U.S. He spends his winters in Telluride, Co. back country skiing and guiding and climbing ice. Dave guides for us on Aconcagua and Denali.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
LAKPA GELU SHERPAGUIDE, RAINIER
Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa began guiding on Mt. Rainier for Alpine Ascents in 2008 and he has previously climbed Himalayan peaks such as Everest (13 summits), Cho Oyu (3 summits), Ama Dablam (2 summits). Lhakpa Gelu grew up in the Solo Khumbu region close to Mt. Everest, but now resides in Salt Lake City. He held the speed record on Mt. Everest when in 2003 he climbed from Base Camp to the summit in less than 11 hours. Climbing with Lhakpa Gelu is truly an honor, he is shy and reserved, yet possesses an uncanny ability to instill a sense of comfort and confidence of those who climb with him. Look for Lhakpa Gelu on our 3 day Rainier climb of the Disappointment Cleaver route through Camp Muir! Return to Top of Page
LHAWANG DHONDUPGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Lhawang began his professional climbing career at the age of 18 in the Himalayas. Since then he has been on more than 25 Himalayan expeditions with summits of Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and. He was instrumental in providing logistical support for his friend and climbing partner, Babu Chiri, in his record-breaking speed ascent and later longest stay on the top of Mount Everest. (Babu still holds the record for the longest stay on the summit at 21 hours, 30 minutes without supplemental oxygen). Lhawang has also guided ascents of Rainier, Denali, the Mexico Volcanoes and many other high peaks internationally. Lhawang is a student of Buddhist Philosophy and Asian History, which he studied for nine years at the Varanasi University in India. When he is not climbing Lhawang deals in antique textiles and rugs from his homeland. He resides in Berkeley, California when he is not traveling. Return to Top of Page
STUART ROBERTSONGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Stuart has had a lifelong passion and love for the mountains and outdoors. Early backpacking trips with family and friends quickly progressed to mountaineering throughout Britain often in ‘full on‘ Scottish winter conditions. Following university, where Stuart studied Geography, he spent four months trekking and climbing in the Nepal Himalaya. On return Stuart served as a Paratrooper with the British Army and much of this time was spent on Britain's higher ground in less than ideal conditions. In the past ten years Stuart has had the privilege of climbing rock, ice and alpine routes throughout the diverse State of Washington. People who have been on trips with him have remarked on his calmness under pressure, strong leadership skills, wry Scottish humor and his genuine enthusiasm for seeing his clients realize their goals. When not climbing he enjoys running, private flying and spending time with his wife, Amy, and sons Kai and Ewan at their home in Seattle.
Significant Ascents
75+ ascents of Mount Rainier via eight routes (14,410')
4 Denali expeditions(20,320')
2 Aconcagua expeditions
El Pico de Orizaba (18,490 feet) and Iztaccihuatl ('Izta' 17,343ft.) Mexico
11 ascents of Mount Baker via six routes
3 ascents of Mount Hood via three routes
5 ascents of Mount Shuksan via three routes
Over 50 Cascade Peaks
Over 150 Scottish Munros, including Ben Nevis, via ten routes
Numerous rock, alpine and ice climbs in Europe and North America up to E1 5.10
Scottish Winter Grade IV-V
Solo climbs of Imja Tse (20,305'), Mera Peak (21,247'), Chukhung Tse (19,253') and Tharpu Chuli (18,045') in the Nepal Himalaya
Certifications
Emergency Medical Technician through King County EMS
CPR for the Professional Rescuer
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level I & II
B-3 Interagency Helicopter Safety Certification
Leave No Trace Trainer
UK Mountain Leader Board Mountain Leader Training
Single Pitch Supervisor
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
PAUL KOUBEKGUIDE, DENALI, ACONCAGUA, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Born and raised on a small farm in mid-coast Maine, Paul Koubek was introduced to the mountains and the outdoors at a young age by his family. In his teens he was a competitive Nordic skier, and U.S. Junior Developmental Team member (1989 – 1990, Biathlon). In his 20s Paul pursued a career in academia, with a Bachelor’s degree in German and Russian Literature from Reed College leading to a Fulbright Scholarship (Dresden, Germany, 1996 – 1997). Paul left academia for a career in the outdoors, and worked as an instructor for more than 10 years - first with adjudicated youth in Utah, then Outward Bound, and eventually the National Outdoor Leadership School. Paul then chose to take the next step and started guiding for Alpine Ascents International in 2008. When not working with Alpine Ascents International, Paul works in Antarctica with the U.S. Antarctic Program as a standing Search and Rescue team member and outdoor living skills instructor.
Paul has led expeditions in Wyoming’s Wind River Range, the North and Central Cascades, the Waddington Range of British Columbia, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Alaska, and the Kumoan Himalaya (India). Paul is fluent in German and Spanish.
Significant Ascents
- Denali, West Buttress (1 as National Park Service volunteer ranger, 3 guiding)
- Aconcogua, False Polish (1 guiding)
- Iztacchihuatl, Standard Route (1 personal)
- Mt. Rainier, Kauz Glacier (1 personal) Disappointment Cleaver (1 guiding, 1 personal)
- Baker, Coleman Deming (1 personal) Easton Glacier (1 personal)
- Mt. Hood (7 personal including: Sunshine Route, Cooper Spur, Reid Glacier Headwall, West Crater Rim, and Standard)
- South Howser Tower (Bugaboos) Grade V, 5.10
- Mt. Slesse, NE Buttress, Grade V, 5.9
- North Sister (Oregon Cascades) 2 personal, via Sunshine Couloir and Standard Route.
- Mt. Washington (Oregon Cascades) 2 guiding, 1 personal
- Mt. Adams 2 personal via Standard Route and Adams Glacier.
- Dome Peak (1 personal, 1 guiding)
- Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge, Grade II, 5.4
- Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge
- Mt. Jubilee (Waddington Range, B.C.) PD+ 2 guiding
- Forbidden, West Ridge, Grade III, 5.4, 1 personal, 1 guiding)
- Eldorado Peak (5 guiding)
- Sharkfin Tower (guiding)
- Mt. Stuart, 2 personal via North Ridge Grade III, 5.9, and West Ridge
- Mt. Edith Cavell, East Ridge, Grade III, 5.4
- Wolf’s Head, East Ridge, Grade II, 5.6
- Mt Shuksan, 2 personal via Fisher Chimneys and Sulfide Glacier
Certifications
WFR
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Master
MICHAEL ABBEYGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Michael Abbey has been climbing for over 16 years and guiding professionally for five. He is a safe, competent, and patient teacher who has taught climbing to people of all ages and abilities ranging from Special Forces to children with disabilities. Michael has done an extensive amount of rock and alpine climbing throughout North America including first ascents of big-wall rock and ice routes up to Grade V. His accomplishments include rock climbs in France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Mexico, Thailand, Oman, and Hong Kong; steep ski descents in the French Alps; and waterfall ice climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, California, France, and Switzerland. Michael is a former Force Recon Marine who has served on expeditions around the word, and completed the arctic and winter mountain training at the Mountain Warfare Training Center in Bridgeport, CA.
Certifications
EMT-basic
Avalanche Level II
AMGA Alpine Guides Course
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
JEFF STREETGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Born and raised in Long Island in New York Jeff learned to climb in the Gunks and Adirondaks, aka the "northeast hills," and moved out to Seattle to pursue climbing the best big glaciated peaks, and hard rock and ice routes that the lower 48 states has to offer. Jeff’s true passion is for technical climbing, while he has vast experience thoughout the cascades, he has led mountaineers professionally into the backcountry for rock, ice, and mountaineering instruction for the last 8 years, and has joined Alpine Ascents this year as a guide for our Washington programs. We are very excited to welcome Jeff as a member of our team. Return to Top of Page
MATT HEGEMANGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Matt has guides throughout northern California for the last 5 years, over 35 ascents of Mt. Shasta, Mt. street, and all 14,000’ peaks in California. Matt has climbed peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, numerous mulit-pich rock routes in the Bugaboos, and extensive rock climbing Red Rocks, Indian Creek, Yosemite, Joshua Tree. Matt has an affinity for long water ice routes, multi-day back country ski tours, and long granite (overnight) rock climbs. Matt is an AMGA certified rock guide.
Certifications
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level I
NATE EMERSONGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Nate has been spending time outdoors from a very early age, introduced through fishing and hunting. Nate has been guiding and teaching climbing for four years and has 14 years of personal climbing experience. He has climbed and guided in nearly all the Rocky Mountain States, South America, and Thailand. He has guided Aconcagua, and also completed a quick personal climb of its Polish Glacier, avoiding mules and carries. Nate works as a Teton guide in summer and winter, and teaches skiing at Jackson Hole in the winter. Nate is rapidly accumulating a large volume of guiding experience in the Tetons and surrounding ranges, as well as the Mojave Desert. He is currently focusing on AMGA Rock Guide certification this autumn and he is taking his final PSIA Level III Alpine exam this winter. He holds a Bachelors degree in Kinesiology. Nate has also coached a youth climbing team, and co-authored special needs climbing curriculum. He has competed at a high level in several ultra-marathons, and completely unrelated, he has worked extensively as a club DJ. Return to Top of Page
JOHN PRUDHOMMEGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
JP has been climbing for over a decade and guiding professionally for four years. Based in Portland, OR, he spends his summers in the Cascades, Alaska and the Sierra Nevada, and the rest of the year guiding and traveling internationally. He has climbed extensively in the Andes, Rockies, Sierra Nevada, Cascades, and the Alaska Range. A geography grad degree and a few years of GIS/land management work have given him a great appreciation for maps, natural resource protection and not having a desk job. When he's not guiding, climbing or ski mountaineering, he's probably traveling, riding bikes, or studying for a PT degree/license.
Significant Ascents
Denali (1 guided)
Aconcagua (4 guided)
Mercedario (1 personal)
Sajama (1 personal)
Illimani (1 personal)
Huayna Potosi (1 personal)
Cabeza de Condor (1 personal)
Pequena Alpamayo (1 personal)
Pico de Orizaba (1 guided)
Ixtaccihuatl (1 guided)
Mt. Kenya.(1 personal)
plus:
30 Mt. Shasta summits
12 Mt. Rainier summits
2 Mt Adams summits
2 Mt Hood summits
7 Sierra Nevada 14teeners
4 Colorado 14teeners
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level I
LNT
SOLVEIG GARHARTGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Solveig has been guiding domestically and internationally for the last 4 years. She has climed and guided throughout the western United States, in Alaska, in Mexico, in the Indian Himalaya, has over 40 ascents of California’s Mt. Shasta. She grew up in a small ski area near Seattle where she first developed a passion for the mountains and studied in Colorado obtaining a degree in outdoor education. Solveig ski guides and ski patrols in the winter, and guides for Alpine Ascents in the summer months in the cascades of Washington and on Mt. Rainier. Return to Top of Page
BEN FLOYDGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Ben Learned to climb in Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park, where he skied, climbed and taught outdoor education for 4 years. A graduate of Adventure Guide Kamloops, BC Ben has rock climbed in California, Colorado, Idaho, Oregon, Utah, Wyoming, Alberta, British Colombia and Mexico. Ben has guided and climbed, Aconcagua, Colorado, Wyoming, Alberta and BC. We look forward to Ben guiding for us in our WA programs. Return to Top of Page
SETH TIMPANOGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Seth started climbing and exploring the mountains in his home state of Montana at a young age and enjoys traveling to new places and learning about unique cultures and wild places. This passion for adventure has taken him on climbing expeditions across the globe including: New Zealand, Chile, Argentina, Peru, Alaska, Thailand, the French Alps, Canada and will climb in Nepal this spring. Seth also enjoys rock climbing throughout the western U.S. and Canada, particularly in the desert southwest where he has climbed several big walls and over 25 desert towers. During the winter, he spends most of his time ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, Wyoming and Montana, where he has pioneered several first ascents. Seth enjoys teaching both mountaineering and technical climbing skills in addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents in the Cascades, Alaska and South America.
Significant Ascents
Denali, Peak 11,300, Mount Frances, Mooses Tooth (Alaska)
Chopicalqui, Pisco, Urus Este, Quitaraju, Artesonraju (Peru)
Aoraki - Mount Cook, Mount Earnslaw (New Zealand)
Aconcagua, Cerro Catedral, El Mocho and Cerro Poincenot (Argentina)
Mount Blanc du Tacul (France)
Grand Teton (Wyoming)
El Plomo (Chile)
Various peaks in the Cascades including: Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, Mount
Shuksan, Dragontail Peak, Liberty Bell, Mount Stuart, and Mount Sleese
Various peaks throughout Montana including: Granite Peak, Crazy Peak, Sphinx
Mountain, Whitetail Peak, and Black Mountain
Various rock and ice climbing leads up to 5.11+ and WI6
Certifications
Leave No Trace
Wilderness First Responder
Level II Avalanche
Awards and Recognition
2010 McNeill-Nott Award (AAC) Grant Recipient
CRAIG VAN HOYGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
He has over 350 summits of Mount Rainier by 19 different routes, including several first ascents. Craig has participated on three expeditions to Mount Everest via the North Col which led to a successful summit on the highest peak in the world in 2004. He has summitted Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. A year-round guide, he leads expeditions to South America, Africa, Mexico and Nepal during the off-season. Craig is fluent in Spanish and Nepali and specializes in foreign travel with an emphasis on environmental and cultural awareness.
Significant Ascents
350+ summits of Mount Rainier, Washington
1 expedition to Vinson-Massif, Antarctica
13 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina
8 expeditions to Bolivia
2 expeditions to the Ecuadorian Volcanoes
3 expeditions to Mt. Everest - North Col
2004 Mt. Everest Summit
1 expedition to Kanchenjunga
16 expeditions to the Mexican Volcanoes
35 expeditions of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico
1 expedition to Peru
1 expedition to Mt. Elbrus, Russia
7 expeditions to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
1 expedition to Xixipangma
Certifications
Outdoor Emergency Care
Leave No Trace Trainer
AMGA Alpine Guide
MATTHEW EMHTGUIDE, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Matthew moved up to Alaska 8 years ago after climbing and living between western Washington and the eastern Sierras. He has guided a variety of wilderness trips for twice as long. He is dedicated to rock and ice climbing as well as skiing and split snowboarding; the mountain lifestyle remains his passion. Up north, he has climbed and guided in the Alaska range, Chugach and Kenai mountains, and in the Wrangells where he lives. Other experience includes 3 trips on Aconcagua and climbs in Ecador, Peru, Argentina, and Chile.
Significant Ascents
Denali
Mt. Dickey (ak range)
Middle Troll (ak range)
London Tower (ak range)
Pyramid Peak and multiple unnamed peaks (Wrangells)
Aconcagua
Rainier
Mt. Hood
Devil's Tower
Mt. Conness (Sierras)
Cotopaxi (Ecuador)
Ishinca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru)
Torre Principal (Frey, Argentina)
Aleta del Tiberon (Torres del Paine, Chile)
Certifications
Wilderness EMT
Avalanche Level II
DAVE HEINBACHGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Now in his eighth season of guiding, Dave continues to enjoy being of service to his clients. Besides mountain climbing, he enjoys cycling and skiing, and can be found out in the hills year-round. In addition to guiding, Dave also works as a teacher. When not working in the mountains he is likely to be found playing in the mountains, eating, or napping in the shade. Dave teaches our 6, 8, and 13-day courses in the Cascades, and guides on Baker, Rainier, and Aconcagua.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
ROBERT MONTAGUEGUIDE, DENALI
An all around climber and skier, Robert has been guiding since 2002. An avid rock climber, Robert has climbed and skied throughout the US and in Europe. Climbing and guiding highlights include a winter ascent of Mt. Rainier's Ptarmigan Ridge (Grade V, AI 4), as well as 4 expeditions to Mt. McKinley, a trip to guide Orizaba, 2 expeditions to Aconcagua, and over 60 summits of Mt. Rainier. Robert is a Wilderness EMT, holds a Level II avalanche certification, and has completed his AMGA Rock Instructor's Course, Alpine Guides Course, and Ski Guides Course. He is pursuing full IFMGA certification. Robert currently spends winters in Bozeman, MT, and summers guiding in Washington and Alaska.
Significant Ascents
50+ summits of Mt Rainier
4 expeditions to Denali
1 expedition to Pico de Orizaba
2 expeditions to Aconcagua
Various alpine routes in the North Cascades
Grand and Middle Tetons, Wyoming
Devils Tower, Wyoming
1 expedition to Mt Blanc
Haute Route ski expedition
Granite Peak, Montana
Certifications
AMGA member since 2004
Rock Instructor Training
Ski Guides Training
Alpine Guides Training
Wilderness EMT
AAIRE Level II Training
AAIRE Level I Instructor Training
Helicopter Safety Training
15 years of climbing
22 years of skiing
5 years of professional guiding
MEAGHAN LOUGHLINGUIDE, ACONCAGUA, DENALI, RAINIER
A resident of Mazama in the North Cascades, Meaghan spends her spring and summer months guiding on Denali then on Washington peaks such as Baker, Rainier, and others throughout the Cascades. She spends her winter months guiding Aconcagua, where in the past she completed her university thesis by organizing an expedition to and successful climb of the highest peak in South America. Meaghan enjoys climbing hard rock routes in her free time as well as skiing steep slopes of powder in Valdez, Alaska. Recently, Meaghan went on an expedition to the Himalayas to climb Cho-Oyu and Ama Dablam. Some of her notable ascents include Mt. Kenya, Ishinca in Peru, and the upper West Rib of Denali as well as numerous ascents in the North Cascades of Washington. In addition to our domestic programs, Meaghan also guides for us on Aconcagua.
Significant Ascents
2 Denali Expedition, (1 Guided, 1 Personal)
1 Aconcagua Expedition (Guided)
1 Climb of Mount Baker, WA (Guided)
2 Climbs of Mount Rainier (personal)
1 Climb of Mount Kenya, Kenya (personal)
1 Climb of Inshinca/Urus, Peru (personal)
Various ascents in the North Cascades, WA
Various ascents in Chugach Rang, AK
Rock/Ice climbs in Montana, Oregon, Washington, and Alaska
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
ROBERT LINKGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER
The term "seasoned mountain guide" often conjures up an image of a tough and temperamental veteran of altitude who has seen it all and lived to tell about it. But anyone who has ever been a client of Robert Link knows that there exists another kind of guide who, besides an unyielding concern for safety, is generous with encouragement and whose interests go much further than simply how many clients have reached the summit this year or that. Soft-spoken and genuine to a fault, Robert is known for his dedication to helping clients achieve their goals. Central to his philosophy is the idea that a guide can be much more than just a guide; he or she can also be a teacher and a friend. Robert began his climbing career at age seven when he climbed Mount Adams with his father. Since that time he has summited Mount Rainier over 290 times and climbed extensively throughout the world, leading numerous successful expeditions in Nepal, Tibet, Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador, Antarctica, Peru, Mexico, Russia, Italy and Alaska, to name a few. His climbing resume lists dozens of successful ascents on such high-altitude giants as North America's McKinley and Orizaba, South America's Aconcagua, Chimborazo, Illimani and Cotopaxi, and the Himalaya's Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu and Everest. In 1989, he was part of the first American team ascent of the North Face of Kanchenjunga. He summited the North Col Route on Everest in 1990 with climbers from China and Russia as part of the International Peace Climb. He lacks just one peak (Carstensz Pyramid or Kosciuszko, depending on who you ask) to achieve success reaching the highest summits on each of the seven continents. Robert is known for his skills as a professional guide, combining a knack for teaching mountaineering techniques with a thorough, logical approach to safe guiding. People who have been on trips with him have remarked on his calmness under pressure, his love for cultural history, his ability to forge group solidarity and his genuine enthusiasm for seeing his clients realize their goals. Robert likes nothing better than to put his experience and knowledge at the service of those who share his passion for the mountains. Robert and his wife Cari live in Bend, Oregon, with their son, Dalton. Most recently, Robert joined an exclusive club when he attained his 300th summit of Mount Rainier.
Significant Ascents
295 summits of Mount Rainier (14,410')
17 expeditions on Mount McKinley (20,320')
1 expedition on Mount Hunter (14,235')
4 expeditions to Everest (29,035') (Summit on the most successful Everest Expedition in History)
Kangchenjunga (28,208')
Cho Oyu (27,766'). Lead guide for successful expedition via the Tibet side
Dhaulagiri (26,795'). Group reached 25,300'
4 successful guided climbs of Kilimanjaro, Africa
12 expeditions on Aconcagua, Argentina (22,835')
13 climbs of Cotopaxi (19,348')
12 climbs of Chimborazo (20,701')
Guided 6 climbs of Popcateptl, Mexico (17,800')
Guided 18 climbs of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico (18,700")
Guided 8 climbs of Ixtaccihuatl, Mexico (17,342')
Guided 5 climbs of Illimani, Bolivia (21,003')
Guided 5 climbs of Huayna Potosi, Bolivia (19,975')
Westface of Jahntugan, Russia (14,728): First American ascent with Ed Viesturs.
Guided 2 climbs of Mt. Elbrus, Russia (18,501')
Italian side of the Matterhorn
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Trainer
SUZANNE ALLENGUIDE, ACONCAGUA, RAINIER, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Originally trained as a teacher, Suzanne loves sharing her passion for outdoor ethics and appreciation with others. She has spent her years in the northwest exploring the Cascades as well as classic routes in other western ranges including the Sierras, Tetons, and Bugaboos, with climbs of Mt. Baker, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Hood, Mt Redoubt, Bonanza Peak and the Volcanoes of Mexico, and extensive climbing and ski descents in the North Cascades. Spring and fall find her skiing and exploring the mountains of India, trying to understand the climbing scene there, cycling, and generally enjoying the outdoors. She currently guides for us on Denali, Aconcagua, North Cascades / Mt Rainier, and Island Peak.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
DEVIN BISHOPGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest, Devin has climbed extensively in the Cascades for over nineteen years and guided for seven. His adventures as a rock climber, alpinist and ski mountaineer have taken him to Alaska, the Sierras, Oregon and British Columbia. Devin is an adventurous spirit who enjoys sharing his enthusiasm for climbing with others. In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, Devin is a rock climbing instructor and route-setter for The Vertical World indoor climbing gym in Everett, WA.
Significant Ascents
Rainier (25, 23 guided)
Denali (1)
Baker (5, 3 guided)
Mt. Hood (1)
Mt. Olympus (1)
Mt. Shuksan (2)
Eldorado (1)
Sahale Peak (2, 1 guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
AIARE Level 2 Avalanche Certified
Awards ;& Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
MICHAEL HORSTGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, RAINIER
Michael grew up climbing and skiing in the mountains of Washington and has been guiding on Mount Rainier and internationally since 2000, with over 100 successful summits on Rainier alone to his credit. He is proficient in the technical aspects of mountain climbing but also the strategic aspects such as planning and executing a multifaceted climb of an 8000 meter peak. Michael is remarkably calm and at ease when climbing at high altitude such as on the summit of Cho Oyu, where he led our entire 2009 team to the summit, and was a leader and summiter on our successful 2009 Mount Everest expedition. Michael will again be guiding for Alpine Ascents on Everest in 2010. Michael exhibits strong leadership abilities in bringing groups of climbers together into cohesive teams. Being a seasoned guide on Rainier has enabled Michael to successfully guide numerous groups to the top of major peaks such as Denali and Aconcagua. Having guided over 10 expeditions to the Mexican Volcanoes, and several expeditions to Ecuador's Volcanoes and Bolivia's high Andean peaks, Michael is not only familiar with climbing the great mountains of South America but is also fluent in Spanish. In addition to climbing, Michael enjoys backcountry skiing, mountain biking, adventure racing, surfing and kite boarding.
Significant Ascents
1 summit of Everest
2 summits of Cho Oyu (1 Guided)
2 summits of Denali
107+ summits of Mount Rainier
1 summit of Mount Vinson
3 summits of Mount Whitney
2 summits of Chimborazo and Cotapaxi (Ecuador)
6 climbs of Aconcagua (Argentina)
10 summits of El Pico de Orizaba & Ixtaccihuatl (Mexico)
2004 Subaru Primal Quest
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
FELIPE JACOMEGUIDE, ECUADOR
Felipe has been guiding for us in Ecuador for the past five years. In addition to his vast climbing experience in his native Ecuador, he has traveled and climbed extensively throughout South America and Europe. He has worked for WMI of NOLS, as a Wilderness Medicine Instructor since 2006. For the past 4 years has been the Executive Director for the MINGAI Foundation: an Ecuadorian Non-Profit Organization in charge of teaching Wilderness Medicine Courses, Outdoor Education and Safety courses. Executive Director since Feb 2007. www.mingai.org
Significant Ascents
Ecuador Volcanoes
Peru:
Huascarán Sur
Vallunaraju
Quitaraju
Pisco Oeste
Chacraraju.
Bolivia:
Tarija-Bolivia,
Pequeño Alpamayo
Pirámide Blanca
Sajama
Huayna Potosí
Ancohuma, Aguja Yacuma
Pico Schulze
“Pico de los Guías”
Pico sin nombre (Illampu-massif)
Quimsa Cruz, Illampu
Ice waterfalls in Murarata
Spanish Pyrenees:
Torre de Marfil. 120m 6a
Agujas de Comalestorres: “Laura” 270m 6b,A2
Paret D’Escales: “Miña Terra Galega” 120m 6a A1e
Paret D’Escales: “Sobao Pasiego” 120m, 6a
Cavallers El Casco sector: “the exploited climbers” 40m 6a+,
Peña Montañesa: 250m 6a A1+
Hospitalet –Benasque
“sólo es un quinto” 35m 6a+
“un ecuatoriano en Benasque” 25 m V and “querido profesor” 25m V+
Swiss Alps: WeissKugel, Gschnitzer Tribulaun.
Italy: Sport rock climbs in Arco y Lago di Garda.
Eslovaquia: Chopok-Tatras.
Certifications
Catholic University of Quito, Bachelor degree in Geography and Ecotourism.
International Mountain Guide UIAGM/IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations).
Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association Guide-ASEGUIM
Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician-Instructor
JOHN THOMSONGUIDE, RAINIER, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
John has been guiding since 2005. He graduated in 2007 from Colorado College double majoring in Environmental Science and Sheer Cliff Scaling. The day after graduation he drove to Washington and soon began guiding for Alpine Ascents, first in the Cascades, and later on expeditions to Alaska and Mexico. John guides summit climbs around the Cascades and teaches Six Day Mountaineering Courses. John's list of personal ascents includes mixed alpine climbs in the Alaska Range, alpine rock routes in Washington and British Columbia, and long rock routes in Colorado and Nevada. During the winter season he teaches avalanche education courses. In addition to climbing John is an avid ski mountaineer and has skied extensively in the Western United States, Canada, and Alaska. When not in the mountains John enjoys international travel, reading about current events, and cold PBR. John also speaks Spanish.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
AIARE Level I Course Leader
Avalanche Level III
JIM PURDYGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Jim has been guiding for over 13 and is part of our Denali and Washington guide team. Jim has guided multiple trips of Denali including two successful ascents via the Muldrow glacier. He has also summitted Alaska’s Mt. Foreaker via the Sultana Ridge. Cascades climbs included multiple ascents and many days on Mt. Baker, Mt. Rainier via the Liberty Ridge, Shuksan, Eldorado, Challenger, Sahale and Mt. Olympus to name a few. He has also climbed in the Yukon, Canadian Rockies ( North Face of Athabasca) the Bugaboos and the Tetons.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
BRENT LANGLINAISGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Brent began climbing seriously as a freshman at the University of Alaska. 12 years and thousands of days later he has amassed an impressive and varied resume including significant ascents in 25 states, Alaska, Canada, Mexico, Argentina, Patagonia, and New Zealand. Brent‘s enthusiasm for the mountains is matched only by his passion for teaching as is evident to all the climbers who have learned “the ropes” from him over the years. When not guiding for Alpine Ascents, he can be found at his home in Salt Lake City studying to become a Registered Nurse, or on an extended climbing trip to any number of national parks in the Western United States. Brent has guided many of Washington State’s classic mountaineering routes including dozens of ascents of Mt. Baker and Mt. Rainer, and has worked trips for us on Denali, Aconcagua, and the Volcanoes of Mexico.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Level II Avalanche Certification
AMGA Alpine Guides Course
AMGA Advanced Alpine Guides Course
AJ LINNELLGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
AJ has worked as a guide and instructor for over ten years, leading expeditions in the Rockies, Cascades, Alaska, and the Indian Himalaya. His own climbing and ski expeditions have taken him to spectacular ranges across North America. AJ brings a passion for wild places that began while following his parents on backcountry ski and backpacking tours in the Colorado Rockies, and he loves the thrill of showing people the wildness of remote mountains. In addition to working for Alpine Ascents, AJ is a senior field instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School and lead guide for Yostmark Backcountry Tours. AJ lives in Victor, Idaho with his lovely wife and their dog, and spends his winters exploring the high places of the Tetons on his snowboard and skis.
Significant Ascents
Denali, Alaska (5 guiding; 3 personal, including snowboard descent of the Messner Couloir from the summit)
Mt. Rainier, Washington (10 guiding)
Grand Teton, Wyoming (3 personal, with snowboard descents)
Middle Teton, Wyoming (3 personal, with snowboard descents)
South Teton, Wyoming (2 personal, with snowboard descents)
Buck Mountain, Wyoming (2 personal, with snowboard and telemark ski descents)
Prospector's Mountain, Wyoming (2 personal, with snowboard descents)
Nez Pierce, Wyoming (4 personal, with snowboard descents)
Pioneer Peak, Alaska (1 personal, with telemark ski descent)
Mt. Hood, Oregon (7 personal, with snowboard and telemark ski descents)
2-week ski mountaineering traverse from the Bugaboos to Roger's Pass, British Columbia (personal)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Professional Member of the American Avalanche Association
RICH MEYERGUIDE, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Rich has been guiding for over ten years. His adventures vary from single day backcountry ski tours, to expeditions in Alaska, and trekking in Bhutan. Guiding peaks such as Denali, Rainier, Shasta, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and various Sierra Nevada summits are just one part of Rich’s career. He is also frequently teaching avalanche courses, glacier travel courses, crevasse rescue courses, and ski mountaineering courses. Rich is constantly striving to improve and expand his skills with extensive education from: the AMGA, AIARE, NOLS, WMI, PSIA, and many other organizations. Rich has been fortunate to have guiding take him to places like: Alaska, Canada, Chile, Argentina, France, Switzerland, and throughout the western United States. Rich is focused on safety and communication, and looking forward to his next adventure.
Certifications
Leave No Trace, certified trainer
Wilderness First Responder
AIARE level I II III
AIARE certified avalanche instructor
Professional member, American Avalanche Association
JAIME MUSNICKIGUIDE, RAINIER, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Jaime has been working in the mountains since 2000. In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, she is a senior instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School, teaching mountaineering, rock climbing, and backcountry skiing courses. Jaime has climbed in the North Cascades of Washington, the remote Waddington Range of BC, Alaska, the Indian Himalaya, and the beautiful Tetons of Wyoming. Jaime's passion is the winter environment and sliding on snow. When not at work in the mountains Jaime resides in Teton Valley, Idaho where she enjoys climbing, skiing, biking, running, and exploring right out her backdoor and further afield.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
JONATHON SPITZERGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Jonathon grew up hiking, climbing, and skiing around Washington State. These days his hobby has become his profession, and he can be found splitting his time between Washington, Utah, and Europe. Jonathon is a fully certified AMGA/IFMGA mountain guide. During the spring and summer months he guides throughout the Cascades, the Alaska Range, British Columbia, French Alps and in Red Rock, NV. In the winter, he is a professional helicopter ski guide and avalanche educator. Lastly Jonathon can be found at home making pizza from scratch or perfecting his pad thai.
Certifications
IFMGA Certified Guide
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide
AIARE Avalanche Level III
EMT License
Leave No Trace
Awards & Recognition
Black Diamond Equipment: Field Tester/Product Development Team
Outdoor Research Connector Program
2008 W.L Gore Scholarship
JASON THOMASGUIDE, DENALI, RAINIER, ACONCAGUA, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Born in Barrow, Alaska, the most northern town in the U.S., Jason has climbed and guided all over alaska, including the Alaska Range, St. Elias Mountains, Wrangells Mountains and the Chugach Range. With expeditions to Denali, Mt. St. Elias, Mt. Bona, Mt. Hunter, Mt. Marcus Baker, Mooses Tooth and Mt. Huntington. Fluent in Spanish, Jason is a graduate of Alaska Pacific University. When not in Alaska, Jason can be found traveling climbing and guiding worldwide, including expeditions to Ecuador, Bolivia, Argentina and Nepal (Lhotse and Ama Dablam). He has guided on Aconcagua for several years, amassing 10 guided expeditions. Jason guides for us on Aconcagua, Denali and in the State of Washington.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
PAT TIMSONSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Pat has been climbing and guiding around the world for over twenty five years. A highly accomplished alpinist, his notable domestic climbs include over twenty ascents of Mt. Baker and Rainier, four ascents on Denali, and countless climbs in the northwest and internationally. In addition to his incredible alpine skills, Pat possesses a strong background in technical ice climbing. Pat leads a number of our technical private climbs as well as expeditions to Aconcagua. Pat is a legend in the climbing world, where his strength, agility and calm demeanor place him among the world's most respected climbers. We are simply thrilled to have him as a member of our guiding staff.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
JOE STOCKGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
With endless enthusiasm for people and adventure, Joe has climbed and skied extensively in North and South America, New Zealand, Australia and Southeast Asia. This past spring he was the first person to ski the 175 miles from Anchorage to Valdez, Alaska. He is an AMGA certified alpine guide and has an undergraduate degree in geology and geography from the University of Canterbury in New Zealand and a Masters in watershed science from Colorado State University. We are excited to have Joe as a part of our Alaska and Washington staff this year. He will guide on Denali and teach in our mountaineering schools. Joe is also an avid traveler, writer and photographer. He lives in Anchorage with his wife Cathy.
Certifications
AMGA Alpine
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
BRIEN SHEEDYGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, ACONCAGUA, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Brien brings a wealth of climbing, teaching and international experience to Alpine Ascents International. Brien has climbed the highest peak on every continent and has guided all over the world. He is proficient in rock, ice, big walls and high altitude climbing. He loves leading expeditions to remote hard to reach locations and helping people push their limits and succeed at difficult challenges.
In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, Brien has been the Director of Outdoor Programs at Whitman College in Walla Walla, WA since 2001 and is a Senior Instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School where he started in 1991 and worked for over a decade, accumulating over 200 field weeks. He led courses and expeditions all over the western US and Canada and worked roughly four years out of the country between Kenya, India, Chile and Mexico. He holds a Bachelor's degree in Environmental Studies from SUNY ESF at Syracuse and a Master’s Degree in Geography from the University of Texas at Austin where he studied Nepali for two years and conducted his thesis research on ecotourism in Nepal.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Master Trainer
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
AMGA Alpine Guide Course
AMGA Rock Instructor Course
Significant Ascents
Everest
Vinson
Carstensz Pyramid
Denali (1 personal + 4 guided)
Aconcagua
Elbrus
Kilimanjaro
Mt. Kenya (10+ guided)
Himachel Pradesh, India (2 guided)
Ixtaciuatl
Popocatepetl
Rainier
Baker
Adams
Glacier Peak
Logan (Cascades)
Mera Peak
ANDY RICHGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Andy comes to Alpine Ascents with 11 years of professional guiding experience on mountains, rocks, and rivers. Andy most enjoys the technical problem solving that brings him and his clients to aesthetic and improbable places. When not working, Andy enjoys taking personal expeditions which have ranged from Alaska to Peru. Andy was a member of the Greyskull Valley Expedition which received a Gore-Tex Shipton-Tillman Grant and attempted a new big wall route on a remote granite tower in the Yukon Territory. Andy lives in the Teton Valley, ID where he tries to do as much backyard skiing as possible. Most Recently Andy worked for us on Denali and will work in the Cascades this summer.
Significant Ascents
Denali (4 guided)
Orizaba (1 personal)
Iztaccihuatl (1 personal)
Cayambe (1 personal)
Illiniza Sur (1 personal)
Antisana (1 personal)
Huascaran Sur (1 personal)
Certifications
Leave No Trace Master
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
WINSLOW PASSEYSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Winslow is a highly praised teacher and a sheer pleasure to work with. Winslow leads many of our Cascades course and is quickly becoming one of most respected instructors. She has climbed throughout the Cascades and in Europe and provides a great deal of personal attention to her students. Winslow just completed successful ascents of Ama Dablam, Lobuje East and Island Peak and Mount Hunter in Alaska. We are thrilled to have her as a mainstay of our school guide staff. Most recently Winslow guided for us on Mount Vinson, Aconcagua, and led our 2005 - 2008 Island Peak Treks. She also guides on Aconcagua, Rainier and has led multiple climbs on Denali.
Significant Ascents
Ama Dablam (1 personal)
Lobuje East (1 personal)
Island Peak (1 personal, 4 guided)
Mount Hunter (1 personal)
Denali (4 guided)
Rainier (5 personal, 4 guided)
Baker (2 personal, 23 guided)
Shuksan (1 personal, 4 guided)
Eldorado (4 guided)
Aconcagua (2 guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
ERIC MURPHYSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
A talented climber and guide, Eric leads many of our mountaineering courses in the Cascades. He has been climbing for 16 years, and has guided trips for 10 years. Eric has vast experience in the Cascades, Rockies and Andes ranges, with expeditions to Alaska, Canada, Antarctica, Nepal, Tibet, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. Argentine and Chilean Patagonia has been a recent focus, with an ascent of Fitzroy, and exploration on the Southern Patagonian Icecap. His background covers technical ice, rock, and high altitude. Over the last 12 years, he has developed climbing curriculums for local organizations. Eric has guided for us in the Cascades, on Denali, Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu and Aconcagua for the past 8 years. Most recently Eric guided for us on Mt. Rainier, Kilimanjaro and Denali in 2008. Other passions include ski mountaineering, ocean sailing, and winemaking. Eric has recently opened a small, boutique winery on Whidbey Island, near to Seattle. See www.swedehillcellars.com for more information.
Significant Ascents
Denali (9 guided, 2 personal)
Kilimanjaro (10+ guided)
Aconcagua (6 guided, 1 personal)
Vinson (5 guided)
Shinn (1 guided)
Fitzroy (2 personal)
Poincenot (2 personal)
Huascuran Sur (2 Personal)
Alpamayo (1 personal)
Chopicalqui (1 personal)
Huandoy Este (1 personal)
Huanya Potosi (1 personal)
Mooses Tooth (2 personal)
Mt Kenya (1 personal)
Mt Slesse (2 personal)
Rainer (25+ guided, 6 routes, winter)
Baker (40+ guided, winter, ski)
Glacier Peak (3 personal)
Adams (2 personal)
Shasta (winter, ski)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
DAVE MORTONSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
A long-time Northwest climber, Dave is now one of the premier international expedition guides and leaders operating today. He has guided and climbed throughout the Cascades, South America, the Himalaya, Altai, Alaska Range, and Russia. He has traveled and climbed extensively over his lifetime and has worked as a full-time guide for Alpine Ascents since 2001. A natural leader, Dave has been described as the ultimate guide, instructor and friend while still spending time on a number of technical personal climbs in the Himalaya, Alaska and South America. Dave has led expeditions to all of the Seven Summits as well as climbs and expeditions in Mongolia, Mexico, Bolivia and other Himalayan peaks. He has guided to the top of Carstensz Pyramid on four occasions.
He is also an important addition to our instructional courses in the Cascades. Dave enjoys teaching the fundamentals and guides technical ascents such as Ama Dablam while enjoying city life with our groups in between climbs. His grasp for languages, history and climbing has made him both an educated and successful guide on all our programs. His broad knowledge of Nepali history and politics makes his expeditions particularly memorable. He recently climbed a new route on Mt. Vinson with Todd Passey and in 2002 received the AAC Mountain Adventure Award grant. In 2008 he reached the summit of Everest for the fifth team in as many years. During his 2004-2008 seasons on Everest, 90 climbers reached the summit under his guidance. In multiple winters he has given his time instructing at the Khumbu Climbing School and continues to support the program in a variety of ways.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Awards & Recognition
2002 AAC Mountain Adventure Award
FORREST MCCARTHYGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
Forrest has been a professional mountain guide for over 13 years. He has guided, skied, and climbed in the Canadian Rockies and throughout Alaska, including the Alaska Range, Chugach Mountains and Kuriak Mountains. International expeditions include ventures to the Volcanoes of Ecuador, Patagonia, Aconcagua, the Southern Alps of New Zealand, desert rock in the Australian Outback, the Annapurna and Khumbu regions of Nepal, and the Ice Caps of Greenland and Antarctica. Forrest has extensive polar experience -- having developed and led an outdoor education program for Inuit in the Arctic and through training and guiding scientists in Antarctica. He possesses a strong background in search and rescue having spent three seasons on the United States Antarctica Search and Rescue team along with volunteering as a climbing ranger on Denali. Forrest has been guiding on Denali for seven years and Aconcagua for four. When not climbing mountains, Forrest calls the Tetons of Wyoming home and you can find him kayaking, biking, or diving in warmer places. Forrest received a 2002 "Denali Pro Pin" Award from Denali National Park for his rescue efforts on Denali. Most recently he guided our 2005 Denali Climbs.
Significant Ascents
Vinson (1 guided)
Mera (1 personal)
Parchamo (1 personal)
Chulu East (1 personal)
Denali (9 guided)
Island Peak (1)
Aconcagua (3 guided)
Chimborazo (1 personal)
Cotopaxi (1 personal)
Baker (1 personal)
Shuksan (1 personal)
Rainier (1 personal)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin (3)
GARRETT MADISONEXPEDITION MANAGER, GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNT RAINIER
Garrett has been a professional guide for 11 years and over that time his passion for mountain climbing has resulted in expeditions to peaks in the Americas such as Denali, Rainier, the Super volcanoes such as El Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, Cotopaxi and Cayambe in Ecuador, high peaks in Peru, and the stone Sentinel of South America, Aconcagua. He was a leader and summiter on our successful 2009 Mount Everest expedition. Garrett has also lived and traveled extensively in Europe, skiing and climbing in the Alps. Climbing Kilimanjaro is one of his favorites, especially in combination with a game viewing safari after the climb. Garrett has been on several expeditions to the Himalaya such as Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Mt. Everest. Spending half his year in the office balancing his job as Expedition Manager for Alpine Ascents as well as guiding a fair amount provides an excellent opportunity to constantly develop and perfect one of his favorite aspects related to climbing, training! Garrett is busy in the summer months devoting much of his time to working in the field with our Rainier program.
Significant Guided Ascents
2 ascents of Mt. Everest, (2006 and 2009)
136 ascents of Mt. Rainier
3 expeditions to Denali
7 expeditions to Aconcagua
1 expedition to Mt. Vinson
1 expedition to Kilimanjaro
1 expedition to Ecuador’s Volcanoes (Cayambe & Cotopaxi)
1 expedition to Peru’s Cordillera Blanca
3 expeditions to Mexico’s Orizaba
1 expedition to Cho Oyu (Tibet)
1 expedition to Ama Dablam (Nepal)
Personal Climbs
6 ascents of Mont Blanc
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
CPR
Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
MOLLY LOOMISGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Molly has worked as a guide and instructor in mountain ranges and wild places all over the Western United States and in areas further afield such as Chile, Alaska, Antarctica and Costa Rica. In addition to working for Alpine Ascents she is also a senior instructor with the National Outdoor Leadership School. Molly has received several climbing grants, including the American Alpine Club's Mountaineering Fellowship, for personal expeditions to places such as the Alaska Range, Juneau Ice field, and Kamchatka Russia. Recently, she spent two-months in Kygryzstan climbing snow, rock and ice routes in in a remote area of the Tien Shan thanks to a grant from the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund. When not in the field, Molly works as a freelance writer covering outdoor and travel stories for publications such as Rock and Ice, Climbing, Patagonia, and She Sends. Look for her upcoming book Climbing: Self Rescue published by the Mountaineers Books in summer 2006. Fluent in Spanish and having lived and worked in Latin America, Molly is an asset to our International Programs.
Certifications
Leave No Trace Trainer
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level I
DAVE KRATSCHGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL, ACONCAGUA
Proficient in ice climbing, rock climbing and technical mountaineering, David has been teaching mountaineering for the past eight years. A renowned leader, David has done much of his guiding in Cascades, Rockies, Denali and recently Cho Oyu in Tibet. Being level III certified in avalanche safety gives makes him essential for teaching avalanche awareness and early season climbing. He also instructs ice climbing, rock climbing, ski mountaineering, self-rescue and high angle rescue rigging. When he is not climbing you might find him Avalanche Forecasting, explosive avalanche control work, ski patrolling or fly fishing on some river in Montana.
Significant Ascents
Amegieno, Argentina
Aconcagua Polish Glacier (4 successful summits), Argentina
Denali West Buttress (5 Successful summits), Alaska
Mt Baker, Easton Glacier, Sawk, North Ridge, Colman Deming (40)
One Expedition to Cho Oyu, Himalayas
Glacier Peak Frostbite Ridge
Eldorado, East Ridge, North Ridge 5.7, NE Face AI4 (30+ Summits)
Forbidden Peak West Ridge
Mt Rainier, Emmons, D/C, Ptarmigan Ridge, Liberty Ridge, Winthrop, and other routes (39)
Mt Shuksan, Sulfide Glacier Ski tours and Mountaineering Courses (32)
Various expeditions in Glacier Park and Beartoots, MT
Various Ski tours, Ice climbs and Rock climbs In the Canadian Rockies, Montana, Oregon, Washington, California, and Wyoming
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
Wilderness EMT-B
Outdoor Emergency Care
ERIC LARSONSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, DENALI, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Versed in rock climbing, ice climbing and technical mountaineering, Eric has been teaching mountaineering for the past twelve years. An established leader, Eric has done much of his guiding in Colorado and is well versed in avalanche safety and first aid. He is assistant director of snow safety at Telluride and he has been on patrol there for over 7 years. His Alaska experience includes multiple routes on Denali, climbs of Moose's Tooth, Gargoyle Wall, Mt. Barrell, Kahiltna Dome, Frances, Crosson, and many others. Eric has guided for the past six seasons on Denali with great success and taught courses at our mountaineering school in Alaska and the Cascades. Eric has guided three expeditions to Cho-Oyu.
Certifications
Wilderness EMT
Avalanche Level II
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
JOHN HAUFGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
Trained as a climber and wildlife biologist, John has had a special affinity for wild places ever since he was a child. He is an educator, mountaineer, explorer, entrepreneur and true believer in the power of trust, respect and tolerance. He is our African/Kilimanjaro expert having lived in Kenya where he became fluent in Kiswahili. John also has a special attraction to Patagonia's Northern Ice Field where he has conducted numerous expeditions. He has climbed extensively in South America, Europe, Africa, Asia, and North America, including Kilimanjaro, Denali, Aconcagua, Mexico, Yosemite and New Zealand. During his 24-year long career with the National Outdoor Leadership School he accumulated 300+ field weeks and founded and directed the Patagonia Branch in southern Chile for fifteen years. John is a member of Chile's National Committee on Safety and Risk Prevention in Mountain Sports and a private outdoor risk management consultant. Recently John guided for us on Denali and we look forward to him guiding our Kilimanjaro Climbs in 2008. John is extremely excited to be returning to East Africa and Mount Kilimanjaro and is brushing up on the Kiswahili he learned while living in nearby Kenya some years ago. Trained as a wildlife biologist, he is also looking forward to being on safari and surrounded by many "large, charismatic mega-vertebrates." Most recently John led our successful 2004-2008 Kilimanjaro Seasons. He has had many trips with 100% success and has helped hundreds of climbers to the summit. John is one of the best Kili guides around and an honor to be on the mountain with.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
YATISH BAHUGUNAGUIDE, INDIA
A travel and trekking guide for over 20 years, Yatish is a dear friend and one of the most knowledgeable Indiaphiles we have ever met. Whether it be birds, mountain passes or history, Yatish posses encyclopedic understanding and stories to boot. Yatish was born and raised in Pauri, Garhwal- foot hills of the Himalayas and did his Post Graduation from Garhwal University in Indian History. A professional guide since 1983. Yatish has led innumerable, Trek cultural, history, wild life tours and Safaris, throughout the Himalayas and the Indian Subcontinent. He has co-led trips for Scientific Explorer Society of UK, Dr. Lute Jerstad (summiteers of Mt. Everest) and with Sir Gorge Band (UK). Apart from leading trips he has been engaged in various other activities as - research work in Garhwal and Kumoun Himalayas for a trekking guide book " TREKKING IN INDIAN HIMALAYA' a Lonely Planet Publication. (Second edition). Yatish leads some of our India cultural tours as well as new trips to Ladakh, Sikkim and the Indian Himalayas.
Recent Projects
"Himalaya with Michael Palin" for the famed BBC series
Assisted and worked as a guide for Mr. Mark Shand for his Book called "River Dog".
Assisted Mr Hugh Thomson on his book Called "Nanda Devi – Last Sanctuary"
Documentary films – "Queen of Elephants" by Discovery Channel.
"Source of Ganges" by Icon Films for BBC, presenter Mr. William Daryimple and directed by Mr. Hugh Thomson.
India Diary by National Geographic, presenter Mr Mark Shand.
MARK FISHERGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Mark brings a wealth of climbing, teaching and international experience to Alpine Ascents International. He has guided for us on Denali and in our Mountaineering School. In addition to having climbed in places like Europe, the Himalayas, Alaska, Canada, and much of the Western United States, Mark has also traveled and lived throughout the world. In total, Mark has spent seven years living abroad in places like Germany, Dubai, Korea, and Malaysia and speaks fluent German. Moreover, Mark has traveled extensively in South, Southeast, and East Asia, the Middle East, Europe, the United States and Canada. Through a combination of traveling and living overseas and its inherent challenges, as well as climbing difficult rock, ice and alpine routes, and a background in wilderness education and guiding, Mark is able to easily relate to a wide range of people and enable climbers to feel at ease. Mark is known for his humor, strong work ethic, ability to persevere under adverse conditions, and his abnormally hairy body. In addition to guiding for Alpine Ascents, Mark guides for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and is a Senior Instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership Skill. When not guiding, Mark works as a professional photographer. Mark calls Victor, Idaho home where he has based his operations from since 2001 and shares a house with his fiancé Kristi and dog Ruby. We look forward to Mark guiding our Kilimanjaro climbs this Winter.
Certifications
Leave No Trace Master
Avalanche Level III
PSIA Level 1 Nordic
Awards & Recognition
Denali Pro Pin
LOGAN COOKLERGUIDE, MOUNT RAINIER
Logan grew up skiing and climbing in Nederland, Colorado. With a B.A. in Biology and Environmental Studies from Lewis and Clark College in Portland,OR, He is a lead ski mountaineering and alpine guide for Shasta Mountain Guides. In the winters he work ski patrol and avalanche control for Solitude Mountain Resort in the Wasatch. He loves the mountains and feels extremely lucky to be able do what he does and share his love for the mountains with other people. Logan guides for us on Mount Rainier. Return to Top of Page
PETER CARSEGUIDE, MOUNT RAINIER
Peter got his start in the mountains of New England, hiking VT’s 350- mile ‘Long Trail’ solo at the age of 14, and doing winter ascents of Katahdin and Mt Washington while still in high school. Since then the passion for the mountains has led to mountaineering journeys throughout the landscapes and cultures of North and South America and Asia. After climbing for more than 25 years, and guiding for more than 10, his priorities have become clear: safety, camaraderie, and professionalism. In the winter, Peter is a snow safety director at Bridger Bowl, Montana, continuing to pursue a lifetime’s fascination with snow. Return to Top of Page
SARAH CARPENTERGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNT RAINIER
Sarah Carpenter comes to Alpine Ascents with over ten years of professional outdoor experience. Sarah particularly enjoys life on snow and spends her winters skiing and teaching avalanche courses in the west and most often in the Tetons. She is co-owner of the American Avalanche Institute, the oldest avalanche education school in the country. She also ski guides for numerous outfits, including the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, taking skiers out of bounds from the resort. Sarah has had the opportunity to ski, climb and explore many beautiful places, including Alaska, India, Chile, Bolivia, and Mongolia. When not working in the mountains, Sarah can be found adventuring in and around the Tetons. Return to Top of Page
DON CARPENTERGUIDE, DENALI, MOUNT RAINIER
Don Carpenter has twelve years of experience guiding and teaching in the outdoors. Don works for Alpine Ascents on Denali, Mt. Rainier, and the Cascades. He is also a Senior Instructor with the National Outdoor Leadership School with 170 field weeks in the mountaineering and winter programs. These month long mountaineering expeditions have allowed him to travel extensively through the peaks of the Alaska, Chugach, and Wrangell ranges in Alaska. Don has worked 20 NOLS winter ski expeditions in the mountains of Wyoming and Idaho. His expeditions have taken him to Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Antarctica, Chile, Argentina, and India. Skiing and avalanche forecasting are a passion for Don. He is a co-owner of the American Avalanche Institute in Jackson, WY. His winters are busy teaching avalanche courses for the Institute and skiing. He loves skiing in his local mountains with numerous ski descents and tours in the Tetons. He lives on the west slope of the Tetons with his wife Sarah. Don is also a carpenter and enjoys hunting elk near his home.
Significant Ascents
5 climbs Denali (2 guided)
3 via West Buttress, 2 via Muldrow Glacier
Mt. Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains, Alaska
Mount Marcus Baker (guided), Alaska
2 climbs Mt. Vinson (guided) Antarctica
22 climbs Mt. Rainier (guided)
2 climbs Mt. Baker (guided)
Tordrillos Mountains, Alaska; 10 day ski mountaineering expedition
Central Chile and Argentina; 20 day ski mountaineering expedition
Ladakh Northern India; trekking and climbing expedition to Stok Kangre and Kang Yatze
Numerous ski tours and descents in the Tetons
NOLS expeditions (170 field weeks)
8 month long Alaska mountaineering expeditions—Chugach and Alaska Ranges
1 month long Pacific Northwest expedition—Glacier Peak
20 2-3 week winter ski expeditions, Wyoming and Idaho
Garhwal Himalaya India mountaineering expedition
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder/CPR
Avalanche Level 3
Return to Top of Page
AMY BULLARDGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
Amy was introduced to climbing and skiing in glaciated mountains nearly 20 years ago and has not been able to stay away since. She has been a mountain guide for 12 years all over North America, Nepal, France and Tibet. She loves guiding as much as exploring new routes on big mountains. New routes in Peru include Artesonraju, Millishraju, Jatunriti, and Colquecruz. First ascent of Dos Cuernos on the Southern Patagonian Icecap, Argentina. Numerous expeditions to the Himalaya include Mustagh Tower in Pakistan, first ascent Melanphulan in Nepal, unclimbed peaks Hongu Nepal and peaks in Ladakh India. In 1999 she led the first unsupported American Women’s expedition to an 8,000 meter peak- Cho Oyu in Tibet, and she summitted Everest in 2004 working as a guide and climbing double for Universal Studios. Sometimes she enjoys big walls in Yosemite and Zion. She also guides for Exum, Chicks with Picks, and Snowbird Expeditions and is a Marmot sponsored athlete. She also enjoys using her guiding skills to directly give back through volunteering for the Khumbu Climbing School in Nepal, teaching Sherpas to climb waterfall ice and rescue skills. Her favorite part about going on mountain adventures is the people she gets to share them with. When home she enjoys an active lifestyle of growing tomatoes, chopping wood, plowing snow and having potlucks with friends and neighbors.
Certifications
Avalanche Level 11
AMGA Level 2 Alpine
Wilderness First Responder
Awards & Recognition
2004 Julie Cheney Culberson Award
2004 Polartec Challenge
CONAN BLISSGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL, MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Conan balances his love for climbing with a strong commitment to education. A master´s Degree in Environmental policy gives him a unique perspective for understanding and teaching sound resource management practices. In addition to extensive climbing in the Northwest, Conan has climbed in Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, and Alaska with numerous ski descents, including Rainier, Denali, and Wyoming's Grand Teton. When not in the mountains, Conan can be found designing and building a house in Crested Butte Colorado and reporting skiing news for the Boulder Weekly. He also works for Crested Butte Mountain Resort as a snow reporter. Conan leads courses and climbs for us in the North Cascades Mountaineering School and climbs on Denali and Aconcagua.
Significant Ascents
Aconcagua (5 guided)
Denali (4 guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level III
ELLIE HENKEGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
As an assistant guide, Ellie has added a superb dimension to our domestic and international programs. A naturalist by profession, Ellie has assisted Willi in guiding Aconcagua, Ecuador's Volcanoes, Mt. Baker, Rainier, and teaching classes at the AAMS for over 15 years. A talented artist, she is an asset to every trip she joins, bringing a wealth of experience, cultural knowledge and teaching skills to every expedition. Ellie is our Base Camp Manager on Aconcagua and Mount Everest.
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
PERREN BENEDICTGUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
A famous Matterhorn guide for over eighteen years, Beni (affectionately called) has accumulated over 100 ascents of the Matterhorn alone as well as countless ascents throughout the Alps, including all of the 4,000 meter peaks. He is also a Himalayan climber and dear friend. Beni has guided with us on Everest, the Matterhorn, and Greenland. Return to Top of Page
JOSE LUIS PERALVOSENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL
Jose Luis has been a mainstay of our South America guiding staff for the past decade, and is one of the most respected guides around. With eighteen years of climbing experience, a dozen years in Ecuador, Jose is the Director of the ASEGUIM Mountain Guide and Rescue School. In addition to Bolivia, the Volcanoes of Ecuador and Aconcagua, he has climbed in Nepal, Germany, France and Peru. Jose´s delightful manner makes him one of our most well-loved guides. He was the second Ecuadorian to summit Mount Everest as a part of our successful 2002 expedition and summited for the second time as a member of our 2005 guide team! Jose Luis currently leads our Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador Expeditions. Return to Top of Page
LAKPA RITA SHERPA 
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Lakpa's climbing and guiding achievements are significant, with 11 summits of Mt. Everest on over 15 expeditions (a record 181 climbers on the summit under his leadership) five guided summits of Cho-Oyu and numerous other peaks in Nepal. He also been our high camp manager and guide on Aconcagua and Denali and has guided numerous peaks in the Cascades including Mount Baker and Rainier. Currently, Lakpa and his family reside in Seattle. He is a guide, leader and friend of the highest quality. Lakpa summited Mount Vinson twice as a leader of our 2003-2004 Vinson Team. He also is known as "The Best Sirdar in the Khumbu", and has been working with us for the past twelve years. His legendary strength is veiled by his charm and humility. As Sirdar (Sherpa captain) he directs and organizes our team of Sherpa for every Himalayan expedition. Possessing unparalleled expertise in the mountains, Lakpa is one of the only Sherpa working as a full-time Mountain Guide around the world. In February 2009, Lakpa became the first Sherpa, and first Nepali to climb the Seven Summits. Here he is on the summit of Kilimanjaro.
[ Article about Lakpa]
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
VERNON TEJAS SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Vern is known for Denali’s first solo winter ascent, the first solo of Mt. Vinson (Antarctica’s highest), first winter ascent of Mt. Logan (Canada’s highest) and as lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughan’s first ascent of Mt. Vaughan in remote Antarctica. In 2000, Vern was named one of Alaska’s top 50 athletes of the century by Sports Illustrated In addition to his fame in the extreme environments of Alaska, Greenland and Antarctica, Vernon’s success in guiding people to the summit is simply remarkable. Along with numerous highly guided expeditions, Vern is an eight time summiter of Everest and an avid adventure racer finishing 10th in 1999 and 13th in 2001 in the Eco-Challenge Race. Vern’s guided ascents are an extremely unique blend of his dynamic spirit, climbing expertise and guiding savvy, known throughout the guiding community. Vernon also led our expedition to Iran’s Mt. Damavand (one of the first American guided climbs). Recently Vern had outstanding success Mt. Vinson, Last Degree-South Pole, Denali , Elbrus (Europe’s highest) and has guided all of our Everest expeditions this century. Notable among his accomplishments on the Seven Summits, Vern climbed and guided all 7 in 134 days (the current speed record), he has climbed all 7 at least 9 times. He also completed all 7 twice within one year. With a guitar in hand and a smile on his face, Vernon treats everyone to the remarkable experience of life. [Click for Interview with Vern.]
Significant Ascents
Seven Summits (8 times)
Mt Everest (8 guided)
Cho-Oyu (1 guided)
Carstensz Pyramid (1 Guided, via the Jungle Route)
Mt Rainier (2 Guided)
Denali (40+ guided & personal - 1st solo winter ascent)
Mt. Vinson (27 guided & personal - 1st solo ascent, 10:20 Speed Ascent, 1st paraglider descent)
Greenland (Many guided & personal)
Kilimanjaro (13 guided, and 10:45 speed ascent)
Aconcagua (21 guided & 8:02 speed ascent)
Matterhorn (1 personal)
Damavand (1 guided)
Elbrus (19 guided, and two speed solos)
Mt. Hunter (first winter ascent)
Mt. Logan (first winter ascent)
Mt. Blanc (guided and personal)
Chimborazo
Kinabalu
Cotopaxi
Awards & Recognition
Life member American Alpine Club
Alaskan of the Year Governor’s Award
Sports Illustrated Top 50 Athletes of Century: Alaska
Eco-Challenge finisher 10th & 13th
NPS Denali Pro Pin for Rescue
“Cover Boy” Alaska Magazine
15 year member USHPA (Paragliding)
Producer "Strummit from Summit"
Host TV special "Food Network"
Guide and talent TV special "ESPN"
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder (6 times)
20 year member AK Mountain Rescue
PETER ATHANSCO-DIRECTOR MOUNT RAINIER PROGRAMS
Mr. Everest is simply "one of the greatest Himalayan guides around." Pete has summited Mount Everest a record seven times and has participated in 14 Everest expeditions during the past 15 years. He has an outstanding international reputation as a leader and guide. Peter's climbing expertise may even be overshadowed by his ability to guide and successfully assist others in reaching summits. Having lived in Nepal for a number of years he is an excellent resource on Nepalese culture. Accomplished photographer and cinematographer, Peter has completed a number of film projects, most recently with PBS' Nova and an Everest film for ABC TV. Peter has been climbing for twenty years and is certainly one of the world's finest guides. Peter was also awarded the American Alpine Club's David J. Sowles Award (with partner Todd Burleson) for unparalleled bravery and selflessness in a rescue situation, based upon their rescue efforts on Mt. Everest in 1996. Pete has led Alpine Ascents' climbs to Everest, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Carstensz Pyramid and Mt. Vinson.
Certifications
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
Wilderness First Responder
WILLI PRITTIESENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Willi has been climbing, guiding and teaching for the past quarter century. Willi is considered one of the premier instructors in America and his students have had outstanding success in reaching personal goals. He has amassed hundreds of ascents (many while guiding) in Washington, Canada and Alaska. Willi is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide and in the past was responsible for training and certifying new guides, and accrediting guide services. Fluent in Spanish and well versed in South American culture he has an outstanding reputation for leading safe and successful trips. Needless to say, Willi has developed quite a following and has led climbs to Mt. Sajama, Cho-Oyu, Pumori, Island & Mera Peak and multiple guided ascents of Denali and in Mexico, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. Willi has led over thirty climbs to the summit of Aconcagua and is considered one of the world's leading climbing and logistical experts in the region. Willi also bears the responsibility of training new guides on climbs around the world. Willi led our 2000 Everest, Vinson, Aconcagua, Denali and Kilimanjaro expeditions. Willi is the consummate mountain guide and one of the most respected mountaineers in America. Most recently Willi led our 2002 & 2003 Mt. Everest expeditions that put 31 climbers on the summit!
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
TODD BURLESON PRESIDENT AND FOUNDER OF ALPINE ASCENTS
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL & MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Director and founder of Alpine Ascents International, Todd has achieved unparalleled success in the mountain guiding industry and is one of the world's leading mountaineers. Todd spent most of his childhood in Alaska where his prowess and love for mountaineering were developed. In his eighteen years of guiding, he has led 8 expeditions to Mt. Everest, and has guided successful expeditions on every continent including all of the Seven Summits. In addition to instructing mountaineering courses, Todd has recently led successful expeditions to Mongolia, Rainier, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Everest and a number of first ascents in the arctic region of Greenland. Recently, Todd led our trip to Cho-Oyu and runs our school and Denali programs in Alaska. Todd joins many of our expeditions in a support role, overseeing logistics, climber development and ensuring a good time is had by all. He currently lives in Alaska where he is raising yaks, fishing and flying. Forever climbing great peaks around the world, Todd just climbed Aconcagua again as well as Australia's Kosciusko, completing his Seven Summits for the second time. In 1998 Todd was awarded the American Alpine Club's prestigious David J. Sowles award for his rescue efforts on Mt. Everest in 1996. Article on Kilimanjaro Interview with Todd
Significant Ascents
Everest (2 guided)
Island Peak (2 guided)
Mera Peak (2 guided)
Aconcagua (2 guided)
Greenland Peaks (3 guided)
Ama Dablam (1 guided)
Elbrus (5 guided)
Carstensz Pryramid (1 guided)
Peaks of Bolivia (1 guided)
Denali (3 guided)
Vinson (5 guided)
Mt. Baker (3 personal, 10 guided)
Rainier (5 guided)
Cotopaxi (2 guided)
Orizaba (1 guided)
Iztaccihuatl (1 guided)
Mongolia (2 guided)
Kilimanjaro (6 guided)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
