Island Peak Expedition Cybercast
Welcome to our Fall 2000 cybercast of our Island Peak and Kala Pattar expedition, The quintessential entrance into the world of Himalayan climbing, the trekking
peaks of Island and Kala Pattar offer those with some technical experience the chance
to climb amongst the world’s largest mountains. Follow our team on their adventure,
as they phone in periodic dispatches highlighting the days events and keep us
updated on their progress.
Satellite Phone & Service sponsored in part by:
This expedition consists of a team of 16. Along with guides, Wally Berg,
and Patrick Cook, the rest of the climbing team consists
of: Leila C. from Toronto, ON; Barry & Karen M. from Los Angeles, CA; Angie
T. from Sioux Falls, SD; Dan & Carol R. from Missoula, MT; Blake & Carol
S. from Laguna Niguel, CA; Greg H. from Singapore; Jim B. from Sudbury MA; Kirk,
A. from Seattle, WA; Garry P. from Olalla, WA; Dick J. from Boulder, CO; Tom J.
from Los Angeles, CA; Chuck P. from Chicago, IL; and Marin S. from Anchorage,
AK.
We wish the entire team the best of luck and look forward to following their
progress. Dispatches to begin around October 18th.

Preliminary email Dispatch: 10/19/00 5:17am,
Kathmandu, Nepal
We had a really outstanding City Tour yesterday. We have a first rate guide;
Climbers and Trekkers were very impressed with him and enjoyed the day. It is
about 5:00 AM at the Yak & Yeti right now.... we should be out of here
before 6:00. We have a really good group. The sat phone showed up with
Patrick - we will get underway with dispatches from Lukla.
Dispatch #1: 10/19/00 8:56am,
Lukla, Nepal
Alpine Ascents, this is Wally Berg. I am calling you from Lukla on
the morning of the 19th. Patrick Cook and I had the good luck along with
our Alpine Ascents Island Peak-Everest Base Camp group to get out of Kathmandu
really early this morning: we're actually here in Lukla, on the ground by
7:30 in the morning. (Transmission ends...)
Dispatch #2: 10/21/00
7:56am, Namché, Nepal
Hey Alpine Ascents, this is Wally, I'm calling you from the National
Park viewpoint, the overlook above Namché Bazaar. We came up here this
morning on a beautiful, absolutely clear morning for our first view of Everest
and the big peaks above, for a group photo. I could tell amongst various
members of the group, with the expressions on their face, the excitement at 6
o'clock this morning when we took our bed tea and got started that this was a
dream come true: Being in this area seeing these big mountains being
around the Sherpa people. Those of us who love the mountains read about
this area, its part of our lives our mythology if you will, always, and I
can see a number of members here have fulfilled a lifelong dream just by being
here this morning.
Of course we are staying at the Panorama lodge, and its still very
early in the morning, and today is Market Day in Namché, so we are going to go
back down and have a breakfast and then we are going to walk down into town to
the famous Namché market which takes place every Saturday morning.
Looks pretty interesting down in town today because I see as I look down
there, that there's a lot of Tibetans in town as well. They have,
in addition to the normal market spot, there is a big camp full of Tibetan tents
and traders who have come over the Nangpa-La, the glaciated pass that
connects the Khumbu with Tibet. And they've come over with Chinese goods to
trade, probably sheep, wool, maybe salt and some other goods. And there is
an unusual number with their own area set up apart from the market, and I 'm
looking forward to going down and checking that scene out today.
Today is our acclimatization day, our get familiar with Namché day
and this afternoon Patrick and I will be doing a gear check for the equipment
that the climbers are going to use on Island Peak. Before we leave Namché
we want to get all of this squared away because we know more gear is available
if we need it, and we want to make sure we have the equipment ready before we
move higher up into the Khumbu .
I will call you tomorrow from Tengboche the famous monastery, or else
on the way. Today we are going to get into renewing our friendships in
Namché and enjoying the markets.
Dispatch #3: 10/24/00
11:06am, Pheriché, Nepal
Hey this Wally Berg, I'm calling you guys from Pheriché on the 24th. I
hope you got those dispatches from Lukla, and Namche, I'm not sure how well I
had the phone working those days.
Here we are in Pheriché and things are continuing to go really well.
Beautiful sunlit morning here, absolutely clear. I'm looking at Cho-Oyu right
now and Lobuche peak. We've had a great time out here in the sun this
morning the entire group is doing well. Patrick and myself helped folks
work on their rigging for their harness for the Island Peak climb that will be
coming up in a few more days. And we're acclimatizing of course here at
14,000 feet in Pheriché.
Tomorrow we'll move up to Lobuche and spend a few days in the Khumbu glacier
region and we hope to visit base camp and climb Kala Pattar. But our
entourage is just enjoying being underway with trekking life, we are just
getting into a groove right now.
We've got 35 Yaks supporting this Alpine Ascents group, and the
friends we've had, you'll remember Kami from last spring, if you followed the
dispatches. This is Kami who almost lost his eye to that yak horn up at Gorak
Shep, he's back. We also have Lhakpa Rita's father. Many of you know
Lhakpa Rita from all of our Everest climbs and from guiding now in North America
for Alpine Ascents. Lhakpa Rita's father from Thame has come out with his
yaks and he's helping us on this trip as well.
So good Sherpa friends all along the way. The members, as we say,
are doing great and enjoying being in this wonderful area of the Khumbu and we
are going to give you dispatches now daily as we move up towards Everest Base
Camp
Dispatch #4: 10/28/00
11:14am, Dingboché, Nepal
Hey Alpine Ascents its Wally Berg on the 28th from Dingboché.
Beautiful, absolutely clear midmorning here. Sorry we've been out of
touch, we've had some power issues with the satellite phone and then sometimes
we are up against these great mountain walls here in the Khumbu and we just
can't hit the satellite.
Just to update you, the entire group has continued very well with their
acclimatization, as we trekked up the Khumbu. We stayed of course at the
Italian Center, "the 8000 meter Inn" above Lobuche like we always do,
enjoyed the amenities there. And then yesterday Karen Heller Mason and Leila
Caudwell and myself and Nawang the Sherpa guide, all went up to Everest Base
Camp. For Karen in particular this was a long held dream; I know her
friends, many of her friends at home know how dear this effort to get to Everest
Base Camp has been to her for a while. We had a lovely hike up there, a very
emotional time at base camp which is, as you might not realize, absolutely
non-existent right now in terms of identifiable features. The Autumn
expeditions are gone, and believe it or not there is no trash up there
(high altitude chuckle). And even the tent platforms that were constructed
for this season are beginning to kind of break apart. But its a powerful
place to be as you might expect, and to Karen it was a long held dream to get
there and it was really rewarding.
The rest of the group continued after climbing Kala Pattar yesterday back
around to Dingboché, and we were reunited last night Today we
are moving up to Chukkung. The Island Peak climbers are of course
beginning to get very focused on that, we are going to go over some rope
techniques and review some knots this afternoon. Tomorrow morning we'll
move to base camp and Patrick and I will do some fixed line practice, and with
luck, the day after tomorrow we'll be making our Island Peak ascent.
I'll keep you posted on that; just know that everyone in this group is
doing great and the exceptionally good weather we're experiencing this
fall, which is not unheard of, but of course the Sherpa people, our old friends,
and the grandest mountain scenery on Earth is a big part of that.
We're all doing really great.
Dispatch #5: 10/31/00
1:05pm, Chukkung, Nepal
This is Wally Berg, I'm checking in with you guys from Chukkung on the 31st
of October. Really great day for me because we have rejoined our trekkers,
that's: Karen, Barry and Angie here in Chukkung. And I'm back down
here with all the Island Peak climbers and I'm happy to report the really
phenomenal success of their efforts yesterday; we had a great day on that
Island Peak climb.
From Island Peak Base Camp, we began climbing through the darkness at about
3am. We reached the glacier fairly early in the morning, and we went up
that headwall which was, I think its fair to say, fairly intimidating for
most of these climbers. We had a crystal clear, beautiful morning in
four rope teams we moved along that knife-edged ridge with amazing views of the
south face of Lhotse and then Makalu and eventually of Cho-Oyu as well as we
continued on up to the top of Island Peak.
There were some special things that went on up there; things that were
left for people that are dear to some of the climbers. 11 of us did
reach the summit. We returned quite late in the evening I'll have to
say down low enough where we were met by our Sherpas and their compassion for
rather exhausted climbers was something I think really made an impression on
everyone.
Now as I said we are all back together and we are really psyched to have
four more days in the Khumbu visiting friends more interesting places and in
this crystal clear weather that continues to be with us each day looking around
at the grandest mountains on Earth. I'll try to give you reports as we
continue our trek and get down to lower altitudes where our bodies are going to
begin to recover a little and we can savor our accomplishments and
continue to enjoy trekking.
Dispatch #6: 11/2/00
9:25am, Tengboche, Nepal
Hi, this is Wally and this call is coming to you on the 2nd of November from
Tengboche. The amazingly good weather that we've had on this trip
continues, it is getting to be almost boring now . This is the way
October is supposed to be in the Khumbu and in these mountains: beautiful
clear days every day, it's what we had on Island Peak and now as we are still
savoring our accomplishments there walking back down the valley. We're
enjoying these beautiful days.
I'm calling you from Mingma Yangzi's lodge in Tengboche, the Himalayan
View. Mingma is an old friend of mine and as you probably know is one
of the Sherpani women who attempted Everest on the women's expedition last
Spring that I told you about form those dispatches.
We'll be leaving Tengboche here soon, and be arriving back at the Panorama
lodge in Namche for two nights as we head back down the Khumbu, again savoring
our accomplishments. We are going to also savor the opportunity to walk
around these hills, visit people, do a little shopping of course, and visit
friends that we've made, and that we've had for years in this area. I'm
going to post you again on just how all of this has been going; health is
good of course it is better daily as we walk down hill. The Sherpa staff
has continued to do a great job and back home in Namche over the next couple of
days, we will be doing a bunch of organizing and getting ready to eventually fly
out of this place. But it's going to be with bittersweet feelings because
its been a great trip and continues to be.
Dispatch #7 11/6/00 4:18pm,
Kathmandu, Nepal
Well, we've made it back to the Yak & Yeti from Tengboche where I last
reported to you. We had a pleasant walk into Namche and a very satisfying
two nights spent there with old friends. We actually rolled out of Namche
on a market day: yet another market day, yet another Saturday for quite a
long walk into Lukla. The traditional farewell party and Sherpa dancing
festivities took place that evening in Lukla and we had two early morning
flights for our group that had us all back in Kathmandu bright and early in the
morning.
As I look back on this climb and this trek I can report my own feelings as
being quite bittersweet. The culture shock of Kathmandu is always enticing
and satisfying but in some way a bit of a let down. And I know the
other members of the group feel this way. We're really enjoying our last
hours here together, of course shopping gets done. But I know were all
full of memories and feeling from our accomplishments on this trek. Too
numerous to even go into in a cybercast, but as people go home, their eyes are
going to be beaming as they begin to recount stories to their friends. In
particular, I am reminded of Karen Heller-Mason's trip to Base Camp and her
long-standing and heartfelt goal and how rewarding that was.
And I reported to you the other day that is was 11 (who summited Island Peak)
Actually including Patrick Cook and myself and I must also count Shawang Nima
and Mingma, the Sherpa guides, our Everest guides from past trips who also led
rope teams. On the four rope teams there were 13 of us Westerners and
two Sherpa guides who reached the summit of Island Peak. This is a
fantastic climbing day that I am still full of memories of, really a great day.
(Second Call) The main thing about the Island Peak climb that I would like to
finish with, is this little story and it may kind of show you what it's like,
the teamwork, the community we have, all the Sherpas as well as the Western
climbers and guides. The entire time we were climbing on Island Peak from
about 1am in the morning when we first got up, till in some cases after dark
that same evening when a couple of rope teams got back down into base camp
exhausted but happy. Throughout all those long hours, Pemba our cook and
the other Sherpas at base camp were burning a Juniper fire, a sacred fire,
offering to the gods to secure our blessing on the climb, on Island Peak.
It's a scene that we are really familiar with from Everest: the smells are
really fragrant and nice and we walk around the fire three times of course
before we head on the climb, even in those early morning dark hours when we are
still half-awake, and knowing those fires are burning through the day is really
reassuring to me.
Gary came up with the idea of going to Pemba and asking for ashes from that
fire and distributed those as keepsakes for those climbers that went on
Island Peak that day. As we descended back down the Khumbu we all carried
those and I know that everyone is flying home with those few little bits of
Juniper ashes that the Sherpas maintained for us with the fire that day.
As I said it's bittersweet; Kathmandu is a world of culinary delights:
pizzas ice cream beer, and all of the other things we are enjoying back in
civilization. But as we get on the plane, most of us tomorrow, to return
to the US, it will be with some sad feelings, leaving behind wonderful people
and experiences in Nepal.