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Why Climb with Alpine Ascents on Island Peak?

Island Peak & Kala Pattar Nepal

Island Peak Day to Day Itinerary

Day 1-3: USA-Kathmandu. (Overnight en route and arrive on Day 3 in Kathmandu.) Upon arrival check into the renowned Yak and Yeti Hotel, a cornerstone of the Kathmandu scene, and attend a welcome dinner with other trekkers and climbers.

Day 4: Kathmandu. From the centrally located Yak and Yeti we begin our exploration of Kathmandu. While modern by Nepalese standards, Kathmandu is a sacred city to both Hindus and Buddhists. Our tour is an important introduction to understanding the cultures which lay ahead. Kathmandu is prominently featured in both Buddhist scriptures and Hindu texts such as the Ramayana. Our tour includes the 3000-year old Swamayabhu (monkey temple), the great Stupa of Bodnath and a tour of a local school.

Day 5: After final administration requirements, we fly via Twin Otter to the landing strip in Lukla. Weather permitting, this flight offers outstanding views of the eastern Himalayas. In Lukla, we meet and join our Sherpa staff, load the yaks and begin the ascent to base camp. Our first day is an easy walk to lush environs of Phakding, located on the Dudh Kosi river. Hiking time: 3 hours

Day 6: We follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending 2,300ft/700m through Himalayan pine and Doedar cedar forests, to the celebrated village of Namche Bazaar (11,300ft/3444m). The village of Namche is an historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat, gold and textiles. Besides being a superb place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants. Our group spends two days in Namche affording us the opportunity to acclimate, visit local markets and spend time with friends in town. On the hike we capture our first glimpses of Everest and neighboring peaks. Hiking time: 5-6 hours

Day 7: In the morning the group takes an acclimatization hike, gaining 1000' to take in the vista on the patio of the Everest View Hotel or similar altitude trek.  In the afternoon we have time to visit sights in Namche Bazaar, including the local marketplace.

Day 8: Perhaps one of the most fascinating days of the trek, we travel to the village of Thame (12,464ft/3800m), off the main trekking path. We have the unique opportunity of visiting the home of Lakpa Rita Sherpa, our Sirdar (lead Sherpa) and Everest climbing guide. His family has been a mainstay of this small community, raising yaks and farming. This gives us an intimate view of Sherpa culture while visiting a traditional home. Interestingly enough, a number of famous climbing Sherpa have come from Thame. The ‘Thame’ experience is one rarely afforded to trekkers. After afternoon tea, we climb to the Thame monastery and further explore local Buddhism. We tour this 400 year-old gompa (monastery) and learn about its inner workings and the lives of its monks. As we view the monastery we discuss the wall paintings and artifacts that are central to Buddhist practice. Before departure we will hopefully have the opportunity to meet and receive a blessing from the Thame Rinpoche (head priest) Hiking time: 5 hours.

Day 9: From Thame we walk to the beautiful village of Khunde (12,400/3780m), one of the largest villages in the Khumbu and home of Sir Edmund Hillary’s hospital and school. The day’s walk is moderate and rather pretty, winding through thick cedar forest. Hiking time: 6 hours

Day 10: We continue on and climb to the village of Tengboche (12,683ft/3865m), the cultural and religious center of the Khumbu. At the monastery we attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals performed by local monks. Vistas from Tengboche are spectacular. The jagged peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega stand to our south as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam are visible to the north. The Monastery at Tengboche is one of the most well-known in the world as the Rinpoche is revered throughout the Buddhist community and has authored a number of books and essays. In the past our groups have had an audience with the Rinpoche and received his blessing. Views from this locale (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde 20,293ft/6185m , Tawachee 21,457ft/6540m, Nuptse 25,843ft/7876m, Lhotse 27,883ft/8498m, Everest 29,035ft/8850m, Ama Dablam 22,487ft/6854m, Kantega 22,235ft/6777m, Thamserku 21,674ft/6606m. We take time to visit the community Sherpa Cultural Center and excellent nearby bakery, and descend slightly to lodge in the village of Deboche. Hiking time: 4-5 hours

Days 11-12: We climb to the village of Pheriche (13,907ft/4238m) which is not far from Dingboche (a village en route to Island Peak). Pheriche has become famous for its high altitude research center. The center attracts world renown physicians who acquire data to analyze the effects of high altitude on human physiology. During our stay we visit the research center and learn more about the effects of high altitude on Himalayan climbers. Hiking time: 4 hours. We also spend an additional day further acclimatizing and hiking.

Day 13: Above Pheriche, the character of the terrain changes, and we begin to understand the starkness of the high alpine landscape. Our path climbs the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier and continues to the settlement of Lobuje (16,174ft/4929m), where we spend one night. This trail passes through a famous memorial which honors the many Sherpa who lost their lives in the high mountains. Lobuje is located on the flank of an old lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Hiking time: 4-5 hours

Day 14: The trail winds past the Italian Research Center through the high tundra and glacial moraine to Gorak Shep (16,924ft/5158m), the last inhabited area before Everest Base Camp. Hiking time: 4 - 5 hours. While our Sherpa are setting up camp we make an ascent of Kala Pattar (18,300ft/5577m), a small peak with excellent views of Everest, Nuptse and nearby Pumori. Many Everest photos are taken from the summit of Kala Pattar. Gorak Shep presents a rougher environment and gives the trekker the true flavor of the nighttime rigors of mountaineering. This will be our high point of acclimatization before heading to Island peak.

Day 15: We leave Gorak Shep and cross the moraine of the great Khumbu glacier to reach Base Camp, which lies beneath the sweeping ridges of Everest and Nuptse. Everest Base Camp at 17,300ft/5273m, is a sprawling tent city set amidst glacial debris. Here the climbers begin final preparations for their ascent of Mt. Everest. We spend a few hours at base getting a sense of the community and meeting climbers before returning to Gorak Shep. During our visit to base camp we venture to the edge of the notorious Khumbu Ice Fall, and see climbers en route as they negotiate this complex maze of ice. Hiking time: 6 hours

Day 16: Feeling refreshed by the lower altitude, we descend to the village of Dingboche. Dingboche is a stunning village of stone huts known as the summer village for local herders. The mountain views are outstanding from this valley as Makalu stands in the distance.

Days 17-19: During these days trekkers will descend back through Tengboche and Namche to Lukla with a flight back to Kathmandu on day 20.

After moving from Dingboche with a night in Chhukung, climbers head to Island Peak Base Camp (16,690ft/5087m) which will be the starting point for our ascent the next day. The climb begins with a two hour scramble to the Imja Tse glacier. After donning crampons we cross the glacier and ascend to the picturesque south-west ridge. As we follow this narrow ridge, Makalu begins to rise in front of us over the holy peak of Cho Polu and the stunning South Face of Lhotse stands 8,000ft/2438m above us to the left. From the 20,305ft/6188m summit of Island Peak the views of the Imja Valley and the surrounding mountains are breathtaking. After relaxing and enjoying this vista, we descend to Base Camp and prepare for our return to Lukla.

Days 20-23: After the climb we return to Lukla, via Dingboche, Tengboche and Namche. Arrive Lukla Day 24.

Day 24: Early morning flight to KTM (weather permitting) and we spend much of the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the deluxe services of the Yak and Yeti hotel.

Day 25: Walking tour of the city including the temples and sites of Durbar Square and the Thamel section. Here we assist trekkers with their final shopping needs followed by a farewell dinner.

Days 26-27: Early morning departure. Return USA.

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