Everest + Lhotse In 24 Hours

Over the last several years we have had a number of climbers, when using our max oxygen flow system, possess the desire and strength to continue directly to Lhotse for a summit climb after summiting Everest. This approach to climbing Everest and Lhotse in the same season allows you to climb two 8000 meter peaks (the highest and 4th highest mountains in the world) in as little as 24 hours summit to summit. While no easy feat, our acclimatization program combined with our rest day at South Col, max oxygen usage and expert team of guides and sherpa make this a real possibility for our climbing members. In 2011 we set a historical precedent with our Everest-Lhotse climb - The first 3 climbers to summit two 8,000m peaks in less than 24 hours, the first guided climber to do so, and the first guide to accomplish the feat. Join us as we attempt to make history again.

Logistics
You climb Everest first, using our maximum oxygen supply (4 liter flow per min). In good conditions we are back at the South Col between noon and 2pm. From here we have a variety of choices depending on weather and strength of climbers. We can either rest for a few hours at the South Col then do the 2 hour traverse to our Lhotse high camp or spend another night at the South Col and then move to Lhotse high camp the next day and summit the following day.

This is an amazing opportunity for the motivated climber to summit both these peaks with the best support available. No other company offers the expertise, logistical support and years of experience that Alpine Ascents provides. Our Veteran Himalayan guides are with you at all times along with the strength and support of the best Sherpa team on the mountain. (See Guides and Sherpa.) Our rest day on the South Col (on oxygen) allows you to recuperate before summit attempt and the max 4 liter per minute oxygen flow gives you a much better chance of climbing fast and strong on the mountain.

Price: $85,000 complete Everest and Lhotse package RT KTM
Dates: March 30 - June 1, 2013
Arrive Kathmandu April 1, end date subject to change.
Please see http://www.alpineascents.com/everest-price-date.asp for inclusion details

The Route

Our Route up Lhotse from Camp IV. The route progresses up the central couloir in a direct line to the summit.
Photo: Garrett Madison

Experience
Alpine Ascents International is America's premier Everest Guide Service. Our combination of veteran Everest guides, experienced climbing Sherpa with many summits, quantity of oxygen, and years of logistical expertise is simply unmatched. We are particularly proud of our extraordinary success rate. Alpine Ascents has the highest success rate of any company putting paying climbers on the summit of Everest. See "Why Climb With a Professional Mountain Guide". This season we look to have our same leaders as in past years. Our group of experienced Everest guides includes Vernon Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Michael Horst and Ben Jones who are not only renowned mountaineers, but are also recognized for their ability to assist qualified climbers to the summit.

Garrett Madison on the summit of Lhotse. Summit of Everest in background. Photo: Tom Halliday

PREREQUISITES
Climbing Skill Level: Climbers prepared to take on Everest and Lhotse should have completed at least a week long training course and have completed a series of high altitude climbs such as Denali, Aconcagua, Cho-Oyu and Vinson. We will review each climbers bio on an individual basis to help develop climbers interested in attempting Everest and Lhotse.

Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as excellent preparation for this climb. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 30lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.