Everest + Lhotse In 24 Hours
Over the last several a number of our climbers, when using our maximum oxygen flow system, have demonstrated the desire and strength to continue directly to Lhotse for a summit climb after summiting Everest. This approach to climbing Everest and Lhotse in the same season allows you to climb two 8,000-meter peaks (the highest and fourth-highest mountains in the world) in as little as 24 hours, summit to summit. While it's no easy feat, our acclimatization program - combined with our rest day at South Col, max oxygen usage, and expert team of guides and Sherpa - make this a real possibility for our climbing members. In 2011, we set a historical precedent with our Everest-Lhotse climb - the first three climbers to summit two 8,000m peaks in less than 24 hours, the first guided climber to do so, and the first guide to accomplish the feat. In 2013, two guides, three climbers and two Sherpa repeated the achievement! Join us as we attempt to make history again.
You climb Everest first, using our maximum oxygen supply (four-liter flow per minute). In good conditions, we are back at the South Col between noon and 2 p.m. From here we have a variety of choices, depending on weather and strength of climbers. We can rest for a few hours at the South Col, then do the two-hour traverse to our Lhotse high camp. Or we can spend another night at the South Col, and move to Lhotse high camp the next day and summit the following day.
This is an amazing opportunity for the motivated climber to summit both these peaks with the best support available. No other company offers the expertise, logistical support and years of experience that Alpine Ascents provides. Our veteran Himalayan guides are with you at all times, along with the strength and support of the best Sherpa team on the mountain. (See Guides and Sherpa.) Our rest day on the South Col (on oxygen) allows you to recuperate before the summit attempt and the max four-liter-per-minute oxygen flow gives you a much better chance of a fast and strong climb on the mountain.
Price: $85,000 complete Everest and Lhotse package RT KTM
Dates: March 30 - June 1, 2014
Arrive Kathmandu April 1, end date subject to change.
Please see http://www.alpineascents.com/everest-price-date.asp for inclusion details
Our Route up Lhotse from Camp IV. The route progresses up the central couloir in a direct line to the summit.
Photo: Garrett Madison
Alpine Ascents is America's premier Everest guide service. Our combination of veteran Everest guides, summit-experienced Sherpa, oxygen quantity, and years of logistical expertise is simply unmatched. We are particularly proud of our extraordinary success rate. Alpine Ascents has the highest success rate of any company putting paying climbers on the summit of Everest. See "Why Climb With a Professional Mountain Guide". This season, we look to have our same leaders as in past years. Our group of experienced Everest guides includes Vernon Tejas, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Michael Horst and Ben Jones. They're not only renowned mountaineers, but recognized for their ability to assist qualified climbers to the summit.
Garrett Madison on the summit of Lhotse. Summit of Everest in background. Photo: Tom Halliday
Climbing Skill Level: Climbers prepared to take on Everest and Lhotse should have completed at least a week-long training course and have completed a series of high-altitude climbs such as Denali, Aconcagua, Cho-Oyu and Vinson. We will review each climbers' bio to help develop those interested in attempting Everest and Lhotse.
In the interests of safety, success, and team compatibility, climbers must be in excellent physical condition. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days is required. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 30lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.
Alpine Ascents is deeply committed to maintaining ecosystems at home and around the world. With each expedition, trek and course, we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region. Alpine Ascents reaches for the highest ethical business practices at home and abroad. Each staff member is dedicated to environmentally sound alpine ascents.
Environmental stewardship remains one of our core values, and we take Leave No Trace ethics and practices seriously. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. On every one of our courses and climbs, we teach and follow the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices.
Our commitment to environmental stewardship can be seen on our programs around the world. Over the years, with the assistance of our Sherpa teams, we have stepped up efforts to clean Mt. Everest. Our Wag Bag® program made a pioneering step in human waste management for the National Park System and Forest Service in the North Cascades. On Aconcagua, we pioneered a waste removal system on our climbs, utilizing the WAG Bag® system. And we continue our maintenance and minimal impact plans wherever we guide. We believe that given the proper information, most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment.
Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally conscious mountaineers.
We regularly organize private climbs for individuals, corporate groups, families and friends. We encourage you to book these climbs early, to help us be better able to fit these climbs to group-specific desires. Contact us to further discuss the benefits of private courses.