This trip exceeded my expectations. We received first class guides, food, hotels and service. This expedition took me out of my professional environment and in a span of ten days I experienced the culture of Mexico City, Climbed IXTA, visited the classic city of Puebla and then summitted Orizaba. This trip hit on all of my senses; sights/sounds/smells/curiosity/taste and of course the mountains. I cannot recommend it enough. - Eric R. 2104 Climber. Read More
- We have an Alpine Ascents Guide lead each trip
- Low climber-to-guide ratio
- We offer a fully inclusive trip (no hidden costs)
- We have a 10 day itinerary greatly increasing chances of summit success
- We hand-pick our local guides and transportation
- 20 years of experience guiding in Mexico
Our 2015 teams met with 100% summit success. 2014 saw summit success on both peaks and some of the best evaluations we have received; in 2013 Stuart Robertson guided 100% of all climbers to the summit of all peaks on the expedition. Details
Alpine Ascents on Mexico:
As one of the few guide services that sends professional guides from the United States, we offer our distinctive guiding services, where most others simply "hire a local service." In turn we have great summit success, exceptional evaluations and a very well organized program. We hand-pick our local guides and drivers who are well aware of local customs and political issues in that region. We travel on popular tourist routes.
This is an excellent way to test your climbing skills at altitude and experience an affordable international expedition, all within a 10 day period.
In the heart of Mexico, about 800 miles south of the United States border, rise the third and seventh highest mountains in North America. El Pico de Orizaba (also known as Chitlalcotepetl, 18,850 ft.) and Iztaccihuatl (aka "Izta," 17,343 ft.) rise impressively above the central plateau. Each fall we attempt to summit these two volcanoes. These two ascents are by far the most attractive climbs in Mexico. Alpine Ascents' expedition provides a fantastically rich experience for the advanced beginner and intermediate climber. What continually makes these Mexican volcanoes so attractive is the relatively small cost it requires to participate in a successful international high-altitude expedition.
Our expedition lasts 10 days, during which we will attempt to summit these ancient peaks—they date back 10 million years, while their present shape can be dated at 2.5 million years. They provide a good introduction to high-altitude mountaineering. For those interested in high-altitude challenges, climbing the volcanoes of Mexico provides an excellent opportunity to begin developing the experience and skill necessary to succeed on the world's highest mountains. Successful ascents will provide the climber with a strong sense of their individual ability to handle altitude. They are also wonderful destinations in their own right.
Iztaccihuatl is crowned with snow and ice, which form small glaciers at the higher elevations. There are relatively few crevasses to be found. For our summit attempt, we will depart by 2 a.m., enabling us to be high on the mountain by sunrise. This will provide extra hours at the higher elevations to ensure a gradual safe ascent. Izta is known in Aztec mythology as the "sleeping lady." When we speak of Izta, we use body terms to describe parts of the mountain: la caballera (the hair), la caveza (the head), la orega (the ear), etc. With many false summits on the approach, Izta poses a challenging climb.
After completing Izta, we will take one day to rest and regroup before advancing to our second objective, El Pico de Orizaba. Orizaba is North America's third-highest summit. It is an eroded volcano that retains most of its symmetrical shape. While the summit is heavily glaciated, these glaciers have few crevasses, enabling the beginning climber to develop skills and encounter only relatively few danger spots. Because of its great height, it provides a wonderful first experience with high altitude, along with fantastic panoramic views.
Those wishing to participate in this trip must possess basic mountaineering skills. These peaks, along with most other high-altitude mountains in the world, lack suitable low-altitude areas to practice your skills. Contact our office for consultation.
The Legend of Popo and Izta
This traditional story is well known throughout the Puebla regions and is famous throughout all of Mexico. As the legend goes, while Popo, the Smoking Warrior, was at war, the emperor's beautiful daughter, Izta, died of heartache. When he returned and learned of her death, he built two mountains. On one he laid her body, and on the other he stood holding a funeral torch. Some days it still appears as if Izta is stretched on her back while the steam of Popo watches over her. And given its recent activity, many are reluctant to forego the romantic imagery of this great "Smoking Mountain."
Climbing Skill Level
Climbers should have successfully completed our 6-Day Training course, 8-Day, 12-Day, 13-Day or have equivalent skills and experience. Those who had a strong performance on a 3-Day Baker or Rainier climb may also join. They must have basic knowledge of progression on snow and ice, self arrest, crevasse rescue and glacier travel. Snow and ice slopes to be dealt with are moderate (up to 45 degrees). The requirements are also based on our desire to have similarly skilled team members.
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as excellent preparation for this climb. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 50lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.
It's easy to put these climbs on the 'back-burner' as I am busy with work and everyday life. The training reminders you send, serve as wake up calls to get my rear end out there and start training and remain in climbing shape. - 2014 Climber.