Peru Expedition Itinerary
Day 1: Departure country of origin to Peru. The flights arrive in Lima, the Peruvian capital, during the night and early in the morning the next day. Transfer to our hotel located in the San Isidro district.
Day 2: Meeting and introduction to all of the group members. Review of the expedition itinerary, Leave No Trace discussion and equipment check. Tour the city of Lima, visiting the Gold Museum and watching the changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace.
Day 3: Private transportation to Huaraz, the main town in the Callejon de Huaylas and the capital of the Department of Ancash, situated some 400 kilometers north of Lima at 3,090 meters (10,137 feet) above sea level, with a population of 100,000+. This journey will take approximately 7-8 hours. From Conococha (4,050m/13,287 feet), just a short distance from today’s final destination, we enjoy our first view over the impressive Cordillera Blanca (White Andean Range) and further south on the horizon we also glimpse the Huayhuash Range, famous for its snow-peaked Yerupaja and Siula Grande mountains. Upon our arrival in Huaraz, we stay at the Andino Hotel, widely considered to be the best accommodation in the area.
Day 4: Acclimatization walk to Churup Lake (4,485m/14,714 feet). This short hike gives our bodies a chance to begin the process of adapting to altitude while relishing the landscape of Churup Gorge, its azure glacial lake at the foot of the snow-capped mountain by the same name. Return to the Andino Hotel for the night.
Day 5: Huaraz – Pashpa – Ishinca Base Camp. After an early breakfast, we drive another 10 miles north to the turning that takes us to the village of Pashpa (3,563m/11.689 feet). Once in the village, our equipment and provisions are loaded onto donkeys and we begin our trek towards base camp. This walk lasts about 5 hours and takes us through dense forests of native trees (polilepis), keeping the beautiful Ishinca river on our right. From the control station at the half-way point, we can admire the remarkable rock formations known as the Ishinca Towers. Our base camp is located in the wide upper valley at 4,350meters (14,271 feet). From here, you can take in spectacular views over the snowy Urus, Palcaraju and Tocllaraju peaks, especially at sundown. We pitch our tents and settle down in our mess tent to enjoy a meal prepared by Justino, the best high-altitude chef in the Peruvian Andes.
Day 6: As our priority is to progressively acclimatize to higher and higher elevations, we’ll continue with a short walk to the top of the Toclla Lake moraine (4,750m/15,583 feet). In the afternoon we’ll go over knot tying, running belays and fixed line techniques, using a nearby boulder to practice self–rescue and rappel skills.
Day 7: After breakfast today, we head up to Ishinca high camp (4,830m/15,846 feet) situated on the left-hand shore of a small lake, just below the Ishinca lagoon. The walk of approximately three hours takes us within about 20-30 minutes of where the Ishinca glacier begins, so we can do some crampon practice in the afternoon. We head back to high camp for supper and make preparations for the climb the next day. Before turning in, we can savor the sunset against the panoramic scenery offered by the Urus, Tocllaraju and Palcaraju mountains and the awesome north face of Ranrapalca.
Day 8: After an early breakfast, we begin the ascent at six in the morning. Ishinca is an excellent climb for polishing up on glacier travel skills as well as achieving a better acclimatization level before heading on to the highest mountains on our expedition: Pisco and Chopicalqui.
The climb itself takes between three and four hours, following the north-eastern slopes of the mountain towards the northern arête and the pyramid summit. There are a few crevasses at about 5,200m (17,060 feet) which we negotiate before entering the upper glacier. The pyramidal summit consists of a 330 foott/100m – long, 45º sloped snow field. From the top (5,530m/18,138 feet), the views to the south over the Cojup gorge lakes below are quite exceptional. We return to high camp by the same route. After lunch and a rest we continue our descent to base camp.
Day 9: We begin our return trek early in the morning after breakfast, making the most of this day by carrying only day packs as the rest of our equipment is transported on donkeys to the village of Pashpa, where our private transport awaits to take us back to Huaraz.
Day 10: Rest day in Huaraz.
Day 11: We depart Huaraz early and head north. From the village of Yungay we turn off towards the Llanganuco gulley. Driving through this narrow canyon, we can see the striking north face of Huascaran Norte and the south face of Huandoy Sur, as well as the pretty turquoise lakes of Llanganuco, Chinancocha and Orconcocha. Our vehicle drops us off at a spot known as Cebollapampa (3,900m/12,795 feet) where we set out on foot towards the Pisco Oeste base camp, again with the assistance of donkeys and pack animals to carry our heavy equipment and provisions.
The walk to base camp (4,640m/15,222 feet) takes an average of three hours. Once we set up our camp we take a short hike to the top of the moraine (4,810m/15,780 feet), where we can view the rest of the path leading to high camp and the south-eastern arête of Pisco Oeste, which is the usual ascent route. We return to base camp for supper and a rest.
Day 12: After breakfast, and with help from our porters, we move up to the Pisco Oeste high camp (4,950m/16,239 feet). We climb yesterday’s moraine and descend a rocky glacier to reach the moraine situated on the other side. From here, the path climbs steeply up to a small, sandy plain where we make camp. The rest of the day is reserved for rest and preparations for the ascent the next day.
Day 13: We start the ascent of Pisco Oeste at 2 a.m. We cross rock slabs up to the toe of the glacier (5,100m/16,732 feet). From the point where the glacier starts we are climbing moderately sloped snow fields until we reach the saddle separating Huandoy Este from Pisco Oeste (5,320m/17,453 feet). We follow the left-hand side of the south-eastern arête until we meet a steep slope (165 feet at 55º). Once past this obstacle, the glacier widens and flattens out. After crossing several crevasses we reach the summit arête, by which we access the domed summit (5,752m/18,872 feet), with an incredible 360º view over such famous mountains as the Huandoys, Alpamayo (often dubbed the most beautiful mountain in the world), Artesonraju, the Garcilazo Pyramid, the mythical Chacraraju, the Huascarans, as well as the main aim of our expedition: the arresting, pyramid-shaped bulk of Chopicalqui.
We descend to high camp and, after packing up, we continue to base camp with our porters’ assistance, where we find Justino awaiting us with a well-earned supper.
Day 14: After breakfast, we head down to Cebollapampa (3,900 meters/12,795 feet).
Day 15: Rest day in Cebollapampa. Those who wish may go on an optional walk to Lake 69 (at 4,600m/15,091 feet), well-known for its unique turquoise colour. The lake is situated at the foot of the south-eastern face of the snow-topped Chacraraju and is believed to be one of the most beautiful high-altitude lakes in the world.
Day 16: Today, with help from our porters, we move on to the Chopicalqui moraine camp, nestled on the edge of the glacier at 5,100m (16,732 feet) above sea level.
Day 17: We climb the glacier to high camp (5,600m/18,372 feet) located on a flat part of the glacier just below the saddle between Chopicalqui and Huascaran. We can also count on our mountain porters’ help today.
Day 18: From high camp, the usual route climbs steeply along the length of crevassed ground up to the elevated tapering south-western arête, which is made up of long traverses and short, steep sections. A little before the summit (6,354m/20,848 feet) we meet the steepest part where there’s a complicated crevasse to get past, although the actual difficulty varies season to season. After summiting, depending on a range of factors, we descend to either high camp or the moraine camp.
Day 19: Descent to base camp from which our vehicle takes us back to Huaraz and the comforts of our hotel, with a celebration meal in the evening.
Day 20: After breakfast, we take a private bus to Lima where we have plenty of time for a final meal together in the evening before heading to the airport to catch our flights back to our countries of origin. These flights generally leave Lima around midnight.
Day 21: Arrival in the country of origin.