Denali Prep Day-to-Day Itinerary
Mt Rainier during the Winter and early Springs months provides similar conditions as found on Denali. This realistic training ground will give the hands on training you will need for climbing Denali. Scheduled Route: Paradise Trailhead/Camp Muir Route.
Note: Early spring conditions often present high avalanche conditions or inclement weather. In such cases, low traverses around the mountain will be undertaken instead of summit attempts. Often the overall experience is enhanced by experiencing and evaluating these conditions, rather than focusing on the summit as a goal. We generally do not summit the mountain on Denali Prep courses, unless conditions are safe for moving high on the mountain.
DAY 1
Early Morning Gear check in our Seattle office. We drive to the mountain and snowshoe to our first camp. During the course, snowshoe training is combined with pulling gear sleds. The afternoon is devoted to snow camping techniques, including safe camp locations, snow shelters, cooking and cold-weather health maintenance. Topics covered include: Map and compass, knots, mountain safety, equipment overview and prussiking.
DAY 2
We start with snowshoe training combined with pulling gear sleds. The afternoon is devoted to snow camping techniques, including safe camp locations, snow shelters, cooking and cold-weather health maintenance.
DAY 3
Move camp. Snow climbing instruction. We spend the morning packing and moving camp. This allows easy access to practice areas, while honing both packing and camp set-up skills. Students learn the fundamentals of moving safely and efficiently on snow slopes of all degrees. Instruction includes: kicking steps, rest and balance techniques, using the ice axe, self-belay, self-arrest and snow climbing in rope teams.
DAY 4
Technical climbing on snow. After moving camp, anchor placements and technical rope climbing instruction for ascending steep snow slopes is given and practiced. Special emphasis is placed on setting and ascending fixed lines. Other instruction includes: belaying, lead climbing, rappelling and descending fixed lines.
DAY 5
Glacier travel practice. Proper rope-up techniques using sleds are taught. Considerable time is spent discussing route finding through potentially crevassed areas and identifying our position on maps. Topics such as travel in white-outs and inclement weather are discussed.
DAY 6
Crevasse rescue practice. You learn to rescue yourself and others from crevasses(this will most likely be taught in a simulated environment, depending on how exposed the glacier is). More importantly, you learn how to stay out of them! Instruction includes setting rescue systems and prussiking out of a crevasse with pack and sled.
DAY 7
Discussions include avalanche conditions and safe route-finding. In camp, we prepare for summit day and bed down early. Pack up and move to camp (or move to high camp if weather and conditions allow). Coninute skills development.
DAY 8
Continue practicing more climbing and glacier skills. After returning to camp, we pack up, snowshoe to the trailhead and return to Seattle. Should conditions allow this will be our summit day.