Ama Dablam

Nepal (22,493ft/6,865m)

I'd been to Nepal before, but traveling with Alpine Ascents was a different trip altogether. The trek logistics were flawlessly organized, from Kathmandu to Base Camp (even the layovers in Bangkok) so I could concentrate on enjoying the countryside. Traveling with experienced guides like Todd and Vern opens doors that are closed to most visitors. Not only do those guys know the way, they know most of the people along the way, and the result is a cultural experience unmatched by anything I've experienced before. It's the way Himalayan travel should be. Peter Potterfield, Author of High Himalaya

Overview

The jewel of the Himalayas, Ama Dablam is the most beautiful alpine rock climb of its kind and is considered one of the range's most spectacular ascents. The aesthetic quality of the climbing in combination with the exposed, picturesque camps and the grandeur of the summit views render a nearly incomparable high-altitude rock experience.

Our climb is the classic southwest ridge, an alpine climber's dream route with its ice faces and steep, clean rock in a spectacular Himalayan setting. From Ama Dablam's summit, four of the world's highest peaks are visible in a spectacular panorama: Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Everest and Makalu. The striking Ama Dablam is the most recognized mountain in the region and is certainly one of the most coveted summits for Himalayan climbers. The ascent up Ama Dablam epitomizes climbing artistry at its highest level.

Our team assembles in Kathmandu and flies to the village of Lukla. From Lukla, we trek the famed Everest Route through historic Namche, Tengboche and on to our Base Camp beneath the sublime west face of Ama Dablam.

After arrival at our 15,000 ft. Base Camp, Sherpa and guide staff will head on to establish Camp I. While the team acclimatizes and moves up the pleasant moraines and ridges to Camp I (19,070 ft.), Alpine Ascents staff fix ropes along the gendarmed rock ridge and we cross an area known as the Yellow Tower, leading to Camp II at 19,600 feet. On the way to Camp III at 20,750 feet, superb alpine rock climbing is found on the First Step leading to III. Just before Camp III, ice gullies, a heavily corniced ridge and an ice wall finish off this excellent section of the climb. Once our ropes have been fixed to 21,500 ft., and team members are acclimatized, we will organize summit teams. The final pitches of the route are on the perfect 50-degree snow-and-ice face above Camp III. This face tops out right at the summit. On this fully guided expedition, we will use a fixed rope to enhance safety. All members help ferry their own equipment up and down the mountain, and otherwise assist with the route and camp preparation.

Interested climbers should contact our office for consultation and requirements. The Southwest Ridge requires technical climbing at altitude, and is thus offered only to qualified climbers.

PREREQUISITES

Climbing Skill Level
Climbers should have successfully completed our 6-Day Training course or have equivalent skills and experience. Technical rock climbing, ice climbing and high altitude and climbing experience are required. Previous recommended climbs are Denali and the Matterhorn. Climbers must be mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. The requirements are also based on our desire to have similarly skilled team members.

Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 40lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.

Environmental Responsibility
Alpine Ascents is deeply committed to maintaining ecosystems at home and around the world. With each expedition, trek and course, we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region. Alpine Ascents reaches for the highest ethical business practices at home and abroad. Each staff member is dedicated to environmentally sound alpine ascents.

Environmental stewardship remains one of our core values, and we take Leave No Trace ethics and practices seriously. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. On every one of our courses and climbs, we teach and follow the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices.

Our commitment to environmental stewardship can be seen on our programs around the world. Over the years, with the assistance of our Sherpa teams, we have stepped up efforts to clean Mt. Everest. Our Wag Bag® program made a pioneering step in human waste management for the National Park System and Forest Service in the North Cascades. On Aconcagua and Mount Vinson, we pioneered a waste removal system on our climbs, utilizing the WAG Bag® system. And we continue our maintenance and minimal impact plans wherever we guide. We believe that given the proper information, most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment.

Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally conscious mountaineers.

Private Groups
We regularly organize private climbs for individuals, corporate groups, families and friends. We encourage you to book these climbs early, to help us be better able to fit these climbs to group-specific desires. Contact us to further discuss the benefits of private courses.

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