Hello climbers,
We’re excited to report stellar conditions throughout the region as we kick off July. From Mount Baker to Rainier and deep into the North Cascades, our teams have experienced consistent summit success and excellent travel conditions. On Mount Rainier, May brought a 44% summit rate—well above average for that time of year—followed by a phenomenal June, with 13 of 15 teams reaching the summit. That’s a record-setting 85% success rate for the month! So far this season, over 100 climbers have summited Rainier—and we’re not even halfway through. Meanwhile, on Mount Baker, favorable weather and its lower elevation have contributed to a summit success rate of over 90%. A big kudos to our guide team for their dedication and support, and to our climbers for showing up dialed and ready to climb!
At this point in the season, all our Washington climbs (with the exception of Rainier) have transitioned to single leather mountaineering boots. With the seasonal snow melting rapidly and a warm forecast ahead, we expect the switch to occur on Rainier very soon.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
A huge thank you to our guide and operations staff for their hard work reestablishing high camp on the Muir route. The route is currently in excellent condition, with teams summiting daily. A single ladder has been installed at 12,800 feet, but otherwise the path to the summit remains unchanged. On the Emmons side, conditions are also favorable, and our current 8-day course is making a summit push now. The approach trail to Glacier Basin is snow-free, and the glacier remains in great shape. Despite warm daytime temperatures, we continue to recommend double boots for all Rainier climbs due to cold overnight temperatures and exposure on the upper mountain. Please follow the posted gear list, and give our gear department a call to learn the latest information on which boot you’ll need!
Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades
Our teams are getting busy! We rang in July with successful trips on Mount Adams, Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and throughout the North Cascades. Low-elevation trails are now largely snow-free, while mid- to high-elevation terrain above 5,000 feet continues to offer ample snow for travel and climbing. Glaciers across these objectives are in good condition. With the transition to summer conditions, most teams are utilizing trail shoes for the approach and single mountaineering boots for higher alpine travel.
Whether you’re just starting your climbing journey or aiming to add another summit to the list, we’re looking forward to seeing you out there this season!
