Forbidden Peak – West Ridge

Climb West Ridge of Forbidden Peak With Alpine Ascents

FOR SUMMER 2021, AS PART OF COVID-19 REGULATIONS: Climbers will need to provide their own transportation to and from the trailhead.

Forbidden Peak lies in the heart of the North Cascades and is one of the crown jewels of the region. Stunning glacier vistas, solid rock, and the sheer majesty and position of the peak combine to make this a truly memorable ascent. The aesthetic West Ridge, made famous by its inclusion in the book, “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America,” stands as one of the most coveted mountaineering objectives in the lower 48. After a short but demanding approach, climbers will utilize steep snow-climbing skills and put their rock climbing prowess to the test on this airy summit climb.

With a 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio, we offer a personal experience and hands-on training with an experienced guide team. This climb will teach climbers how to move quickly and efficiently through moderately technical terrain (rock and snow/ice) and improve rock climbing and steep snow movement skills. We will also review belaying, rappelling, knots, and rope management prior to the start of the climb.

This climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak combined with the Intro to Alpine Rock Course is an outstanding Matterhorn prep course and highly recommended for those that can make the time.

Maximum team size: Six climbers with three guides.

EQUIPMENT & MEALS

Provided: All group climbing equipment, including climbing ropes, technical hardware, and tents;  breakfasts and dinners on the mountain.

Not provided: Personal equipment and lunches. You are responsible for all items on the Gear List.

The expedition was just unbelievable. I’ve never done anything like this, and the guides made it absolutely wonderful. The food was great, the teaching was great, and the guides really catered to our experience level. I’m already starting to think of what I can do next! -Forbidden Peak Climber

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.

Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills
Don Graydon (Ed.), Kurt Hanson (Ed.), Mountaineers Society, Mountaineers Books
Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue
Andy Selters, Mountaineers Books
The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue
Andy Tyson, Mike Clelland, Climbing Magazine

Excellent, very organized; virtually hassle-free. The guide was top notch – world class – excellent -very confident; in control, excellent source of information, very patient and very helpful to all.

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Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
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