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Forbidden Peak – West Ridge

West Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Forbidden Peak is one of the crown jewels of the region and lies in the heart of the North Cascades. Stunning glacier vistas, solid rock, and the sheer majesty and position of the peak combine to make this a truly memorable ascent.   The aesthetic West Ridge, made famous by its inclusion in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, stands as one of the most coveted mountaineering objectives in the lower 48. After a short, but demanding approach hike, climbers will utilize steep snow climbing skills and put their rock climbing prowess to the test on this airy summit climb.

With a 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio, we offer a personal experience and hands-on training with an experienced guide team.  This climb will teach climbers how to move quickly and efficiently through moderately technical terrain (rock and snow/ice) and improve rock climbing and steep snow movement skills.   We will also review belaying, rappelling, knots, and rope management prior to the start of the climb.

This climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak combined with the Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing is an outstanding Matterhorn Prep Course and highly recommended for those that can make the time.

Maximum team size: Four climbers with 2 guides.

TENTS EQUIPMENT & MEALS

Provided: All group climbing equipment: climbing ropes and technical hardware; meals and tents.

Not provided: Personal equipment. You are responsible for all items on the gear list. Transportation is not provided for this climb. Climbers will need to provide transportation to the trailhead.

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.

Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills
Don Graydon (Ed.), Kurt Hanson (Ed.), Mountaineers Society, Mountaineers Books
Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue
Andy Selters, Mountaineers Books
The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue
Andy Tyson, Mike Clelland, Climbing Magazine

Great expedition. Good group of people, great guides and great weather resulted in great success. All 4 peaks submitted. 100% success on Chopi which I think is a first for Alpine Ascents.

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Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
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