Itinerary

Matterhorn Itinerary

I really enjoyed the program and the entire experience. Best climbing trip I’ve ever been on, from top to bottom.

Day 1

Arrive in Geneva and shuttle to Chamonix. We will spend the night in a hotel in Chamonix, France.

Day 2

Meet at 7:00 a.m. in the lobby of our hotel in Chamonix. We will spend today reviewing and practicing our rock climbing skills in our mountain boots. We will climb the Traverses of the Aig Crouchues above Chamonix. This traverse allows us to practice climbing uphill and descending. We will spend the night at a hotel in Chamonix.

• Travel time climbing: 5-6 hours climbing above town
• Vertical gain climbing: 637 m/2,089 ft.
• Vertical gain during day: 1,837 m/6,026 ft.
• Traverse Crouchues: 2,837 m/9,307 ft.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,000 m/3,280 ft.

Day 3

Today we will focus on the skills learned yesterday and continue to build upon them as we prepare for our ascent of the Matterhorn. We have multiple options for different training climbs today and the guide team will adjust based on current conditions and what would best benefit the climbing team. Options include doing the Perrons traverse, Cosmiques Arete, and the Aiguille de L’M. All climbs will be a single day trip and the group will overnight in Chamonix, France.

• Vertical gain during the day varies based on climbing objective
• Travel time climbing: 6.5-8 hours
• Chamonix altitude: 1,000 m/3,290 ft.

Day 4

We will wake and depart Chamonix early in the morning aiming to catch the first tram car up towards the Aigullie du Midi.  We will get off at the mid station and start our climb up to the  Aiguille du Peigne (3192m).  This iconic alpine rock route towers over Chamonix and was first climbed in 1906. This technical alpine rock ridge climb provides perfect practice for the Matterhorn at 10,000ft to help with our acclimatization process. Once done climbing, we will return to the Aigullie du Midi and take the tram up to the Torino Hut where we will spend the night.

• Chamonix altitude: 1,000 m/3,290 ft.
• Mid station of Aig d’ Midi: 2,310 m/7,578 ft.
• Summit of Aig du Peigne: 3,192m/ 10472 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 882 m/2,893 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 6.5-8.0 hours
• Torino Hut: 3,300 m/10,827 ft.

Day 5

We will wake up this morning leaving the hut and climb the famous Traverse of the Entreves. This is a technical rock traverse mixed with snow, ice, and rock. This striking traverse has been photographed for many outdoor catalogs and magazines.  This technical alpine rock ridge is an excellent precursor to climbing the Matterhorn and situated at 3600m helps us acclimate. In the afternoon we descend to Chamonix. We will get our equipment ready for the Matterhorn and go over logistics for traveling to Zermatt.  Overnight in Chamonix, France.

• Tornio Hut altitude: 3,300 m/10,827 ft.
• Traverse of Entreves: 3,604 m/11,824 ft.
• Total Vertical gain climbing: 500 m/1,640 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 5-7 hours climbing

Day 6

We start the day by traveling from Chamonix to Zermatt, either by train or by car. Travel time takes around 3.5 hours. Upon arriving in Zermatt, we will drop our luggage off at the hotel where we’ll stay on the way back from the Matterhorn. We depart Zermatt mid-day and approach the base of the Hornligrate Ridge, where we ride the Schwarzee lift to 2,575 m. From the top of the lift we travel by foot on a main hiking path to the Hornli Hütte at 3,260 m. We will enjoy dinner and go to bed early in preparation for our ascent. In the afternoon, climbers and guides can possibly preview the lower section of the route, if conditions and time permit. This day can also be a potential weather day, then moving to the Hornli Hut on Day 7 and attempting the summit on Day 8.

• Zermatt altitude: 1,608 m/5,275 ft.
• Top of Schwarzee lift: 2,575 m/8,448 ft.
• Hornli Hütte: 3,260 m/10,695 ft.
• Vertical gain during the day: 1,652 m/5,419 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 685 m/2,247 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 2- 2.5 hours walking on trail to the Hornli Hütte.

Day 7

Summit Day! Climb the Matterhorn via Hornligrate Ridge, just over 1,200 m (4,000 ft.). This is a technical ridge climb requiring a high level of physical energy and technical ability. The lower two-thirds of the route involve a rock climb and rock scramble. We will take our first long break at the historic Solvay emergency shelter (4,003 m). Climbers should plan on reaching this hut in 2–2.5 hours. With only 475 m until we reach the summit from the Solvay, the route steepens as we ascend the upper Mossey Slabs. The final 200 m of the Matterhorn is on steep snow and ice before attaining the final summit ridge. Our goal is to reach the summit in 4.5–5.5 hours and then reverse our path and descend to the Hornligrate Hut. We will spend the night back at the Hornligrate Hut or in Zermatt. Climbers should plan on an 8-11 hour day of intense high-cardio physical exercise.

• Hornli Hütte altitude: 3,260 m/10,695 ft.
• Solvay Emergency Shelter: 4,003 m/13,133 ft.
• Summit of Matterhorn: 4,478 m/14,691 ft.
• Vertical gain during day: 1,224 m/4,015 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 1,224 m/4,015 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 4.5–5.5 hours to the summit and around 4.5–5.5 hours to descend to the Hornligrate Hütte. Total climbing time is typically between 9–11 hours, with 1–1.5 hours walking to the Schwarzee Hotel.

Day 8

Weather day or possible extra summit day on the Matterhorn. Over the years this day has proved to be beneficial to many of our climbers as we sometimes need to wait 12-24 hours for the weather to allow for a summit attempt on the Matterhorn. Overnight in Zermatt.

Day 9

Depart Zermatt via train to Geneva or Zurich. When booking flights, climbers should be aware the train ride is 4–4.5 hours. The first train departs around 5 a.m. Fly back to country of origin.

*Guides might change the Itinerary due to weather and climbing conditions on the Matterhorn.