Today under warm and beautiful conditions our Everest/Lhotse team made it to our last camp, the South Col today. We are doing great here and really excited about being at almost 8,000m, with supplemental oxygen if course:-). We have some light winds at the Col, but it’s a pretty pleasant day to be here. We just finished dinner, and are just resting in our tents. Our Sherpa team has been working incredibly hard to get us to this point with tents and water and food. Dorjee will be the cook for all of us up here for the next couple of days. We also have 4 other incredibly experienced climbing Sherpas who will be climbing with us to the summit on the 27th. Kami Rita (20 summits of Everest!) Fura Kancha (10 summits) Danuru (14 summits), and Mingma Tserring (15 summits) will all be climbing with John Z, John P, Malcolm, Santiago, Jangbu (1 summit) Eric, and myself (3 summits) to the summit.
More tomorrow…..thanks for following along!
Today we left Camp 2 for upper Camp 3 at about 23,800ft in perfect conditions. Just the way our rotations have gone and with waiting patiently for a weather window we have not encountered a single crowd this entire expedition. We feel good about that continuing through our summit bid as well. It’s definitely still windy up high and we have had some gusts of wind through Camp 3 here but overall it’s been a beautiful day. Camp 3 I perched on the Lhotse face where it has literally been chopped into the ice to make a few flat spots for our tents. It’s a beautiful Camp but there is no where to walk around at all as it is pretty steep all the way down to Camp 2. We are safe though and our team did excellent on the climb to Camp 3 today. We’ve just finished up dinner and are headed off to bed. Tomorrow we head to the last Camp, the South Col. We are all now breathing supplemental oxygen on a low flow to sleep and then for the rest of the climb to the summit and down to at least to Camp 3 on the descent. The weather is still looking good for us on the 27th, so we will take day at the South Col before heading to the summit. Thanks for following along, it feels good to be climbing towards 8,000m!
Tomorrow morning at 6am we will be heading up to Camp 3! Our team is excited. We feel strong, most of the crowds are gone, and we feel good about a good weather window coming up on the 27th-28th. I’ll continue to update as we go higher! Thanks for following along!
Our Everest/Lhotse team is doing very well here in Camp 2 (21,500ft). We had been looking for our summit bid on the 24th but with more careful examination there just didn’t seem to be much of a distinction between a number of days through the 25th. There are lots of forecasts and opinions on the day to go to the summit. Really the only time we’ve much of a drop in winds for most of the season is looking to be on the 26th and 27th of May. It’s still a little far out to forecast but with our forecaster Michael Fagin and looking at several other models and forecasts all seem to agree with a drop in wind at that time. We hope that our patience will pay off, and that the forecast stays with low winds. Below is a free forecast we will sometimes compare with our paid forecasts but also seems to be pretty accurate with winds on Everest.
Thanks for also waiting patiently with us as we gear up to head to the Top of The World very soon. For us guides this is a huge decision, and not one we take lightly. This year The decision has been made easier by having a very flexible, strong and qualified team willing to wait for a great weather window even if that may mean changing flights home as we near the end of the season.
The plan right now will will be to head up to Camp 3 on the morning of the 24th, then to the South Col on the 25th. We will rest on the 26th before heading up to the summit on the first hours of the 27th. This extra rest day at the South Col has been one of the keys to our success over many years providing our team plenty of time to recover before our summit push.
Talk to you soon, and thanks for following along,
Our team is doing great here at Camp 2. After looking at forecasts we feel it is going to be much better to wait a couple more days for our summit push. The team is in great spirits and doing very well. The weather looks to be getting much better in a few days so we will just rest here at Camp 2.
It is pretty late here as we were just helping out on another rescue from another team here so more tomorrow.
Again, our team is doing very well!
Could I take this opportunity to thank all at Alpine Ascents for a great Everest climb. Dave and Vern were fantastic throughout, I doubt there’s a better guiding duo and company on the planet. I shall certainly be climbing with Alpine Ascents for the foreseable future.