Day 1
Arrive in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. The team will check into their accommodation and meet for the trip orientation and gear check.
Day 2
We take a short flight from Bishkek to Osh and make final arrangements for the expedition. Overnight in a hotel.
Day 3
Travel via Pamir Highway to International Mountaineering Camp “Pamir” in the Achik-Tash valley under the slopes of Lenin Peak. IMC is a comfortable basecamp where we can begin to acclimatize and train.
- IMC Pamir: 3,600m /11,800 ft
Day 4
Acclimatization hike to visit Tulpar-Kul Lake or to the waterfall near Onion Glade. Return to basecamp for final adjustments to gear and equipment. Overnight at IMC “Pamir.”
Day 5
Acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovskiy Peak. From the ridge, enjoy breathtaking views of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash. Overnight at IMC “Pamir.”
- Petrovskiy Peak: 4530 m / 14,862 ft
Day 6
Climb through the Puteshestvennik Pass and descend to the moraine of the Lenin Glacier to Camp 1. Overnight at Camp 1.
- Camp 1: 4,400 m / 14,440 ft
Day 7
Climb Home Peak. Our path climbs Home Peak and then scales the rocky ridge to the summit of Yukhin Peak. On clear days we enjoy magnificent views of Lenin Peak and the surrounding mountain panorama. Overnight at Camp 1.
- Home Peak: 4,700 m / 15,200 ft
- Yukhin Peak: 5,100 m / 16,730 ft
Day 8
Rest day at Camp 1 for acclimatization and training. We review fundamental skills for glacier travel.
Day 9
Climb to Camp 2 via the Lenin Glacier. We traverse slopes on the North Face of Peak Lenin to reach a plateau called “the Frying Pan.” We cross the plateau to arrive at Camp 2. Overnight at Camp 2.
- Camp 2: 5,300 m / 17,400 ft
Day 10
Climb to Camp 3 by scaling steep snowy slopes along Razdelnaya Peak ridgeline. We will touch Camp 3 and leave some equipment there to aid in our summit push. Overnight at Camp 2.
- Camp 2: 5,300 m / 17,400 ft
- Camp 3: 6,100 m / 20,013 ft
Day 11
Climb to Camp 3 and spend night at Camp 3 to help with acclimatization.
- Camp 3: 6,100 m / 20,013 ft
Day 12 – 14
Descend to Camp 1 and IMC “Pamir.” Spend additional days resting and preparing for the final ascent.
- Camp 1: 4,400 m / 14,440 ft
- IMC Pamir: 3,600m /11,800 ft
Day 15
Climb to Camp 1.
- Camp 1: 4,400 m / 14,440 ft
Day 16
Climb to Camp 2.
- Camp 2: 5,300 m / 17,400 ft
Day 17
Climb to Camp 3.
- Camp 3: 6,100 m / 20,013 ft
Day 18
Summit Attempt of Peak Lenin along its west ridge. We navigate a steep snow-ice ridge called “the knife” using a fixed rope, then traverse wide snow fields and rocky hills to the summit of Lenin Peak. On clear days our summit celebration will enjoy views of the Pamirs from China to Pakistan. Descend to Camp 3.
- Summit of Peak Lenin: 7,134 m / 23,405ft
- Camp 3: 6,100 m / 20,013 ft
Day 19
Descend to Camp 1.
- Camp 1: 4,400 m / 14,440 ft
Day 20
Descend to IMC via the Puteshestvinnikov Pass.
- IMC Pamir: 3,600m /11,800 ft
Day 21
Reserve day in case of weather or other conditions.
Day 22
Transfer to the city of Osh where we celebrate the accomplishments of our expedition. Overnight in a hotel.
Day 23
Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight in a hotel.
Day 24
We say our goodbyes and transfer to the airport to return home.
I deeply enjoyed my expedition, it was a fantastic and, in most ways, ideal introduction to technical glacier travel. My guides were rock stars, the weather was superb, the route was challenging and gratifying and yet accessible, and I felt I was adequately prepared in some part thanks to AAI’s clear insistence on fitness preparation.
