Mount Rainier / Cascades

Hello climbers,

Climbing conditions in the Cascades are shaping up beautifully as we head into the summer season. Recent warm weather has accelerated snow melt, opening access to more routes and improving conditions across many alpine objectives across the region. With the Summer Solstice just around the corner, we’re enjoying the longest days of the year—providing more daylight, flexible start times, and excellent opportunities for climbing. The weather for the week continues to look sunny with high freezing levels and overall it’s a fantastic time to get out and climb.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
The Muir route has officially shifted from the Ingraham Direct to the Disappointment Cleaver. The new route climbs mostly on snow, but the Cleaver is melting quick. Each of our teams this week have summited via the new route and reported great, direct climbing. On the Emmons side of the mountain, the trail to Glacier Basin is now snow-free and approach shoes are recommended. The upper mountain is in good shape, and with a deep snowpack the route should stay in solid climbing condition for the foreseeable future.

Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)
Conditions on all sides of Mt Baker have been in fantastic shape for climbing. The Easton Glacier is slowly starting to show some cracks, but it’s not impacting the current condition of the climbing route. The route remains very straightforward from camp, and teams have been getting a slightly earlier start just to beat the heat while climbing. This week, our teams saw great climbing conditions on the North Ridge, and guides noted that the route was in stellar shape. We see the same favorable conditions on the Coleman-Deming route, as well. The road to the north side is still washed out, expect a couple hours of additional hiking to get to camp.

The Cascades
Conditions are finally ready for the alpine climbing season in Washington. Recent warm temperatures have caused many routes to shed snow, and opened access to the classic climbs all around Cascades. Highway 20 officially reopened for quicker access to Washington Pass where climbers have been enjoying the routes on the Liberty Bell and South Early Winters Spire. It’s getting warm midday in Mazama, but early starts have provided great temperatures for rock climbing on the Goat Wall. Our first trips to Olympus and Glacier Peak are currently in the field, so stay tuned for route updates in those areas!

Happy climbing!

Greetings Climbers,

Happy Monday from Alpine Ascents!

The past week on Mount Rainier has been a reminder of just how quickly conditions can change in the Cascades. Late last week, a strong storm moved through the region, depositing an estimated 2–3 feet of new snow above 10,000 feet. Guides reported winter-like conditions on the upper mountain, with cold temperatures, wind, and fresh snow affecting travel and route work.

Fast forward just a few days, and the weather has shifted dramatically. Today, climbers are enjoying sunny skies, very warm temperatures, and freezing levels above 15,000 feet. Temperatures in Seattle are expected to reach 90°F, and the mountain is already responding to the rapid warming.

Over the weekend, Alpine Ascents guide teams were busy performing route work above Camp Muir. As conditions evolved, guides officially transitioned the climbing route from the Ingraham Direct to the Disappointment Cleaver Route. The Disappointment Cleaver is currently in excellent condition, and our team today successfully summited via the new route. At this time, there are no ladders in place on the route. Climbers will encounter only a few sections of running belays, which is very typical for this time of year. Overall, guides are reporting straightforward travel and good climbing conditions above Camp Muir.

The recent warm temperatures have accelerated melting on the lower mountain. The trail from Paradise to Glacier Vista is now approximately 80% snow-free and continuing to melt rapidly. Above that, the Muir Snowfield remains in excellent condition and is heavily traveled by climbers, skiers, and hikers making their way toward Camp Muir.

As always, conditions on Mount Rainier can change quickly. With the recent snowfall followed by a significant warming trend, climbers should expect changing snow conditions throughout the week and be prepared for both firm morning travel and softer snow later in the day.

We look forward to seeing you in the mountains.

The Alpine Ascents Guide Team

While the calendar technically says June, the Cascades have recently been reminding climbers that winter is not quite ready to let go. Over the past week, Mount Rainier received nearly two inches of precipitation at Paradise in 36hrs! Much of that precipitation falls as as snow at the higher elevations. Alpine Ascents guides reported significant new snowfall on Mount Rainier as well as throughout the North Cascades, creating fresh winter conditions on many alpine routes. Temperatures remained unusually cold for this time of year, with climbers encountering snow, wind, and below-average temperatures across much of the range. Looking ahead, weather appears to be improving. Forecasts call for warming temperatures and a return to sunny skies heading into the weekend. While the recent snowfall has refreshed coverage on many glaciers and alpine routes, climbers should anticipate changing snow conditions as the new snow settles and warmer temperatures begin to affect the mountain snowpack.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)

Over the past week, Mount Rainier received significant new snowfall on the upper mountain, accompanied by cold temperatures, wind, and challenging climbing conditions.  In anticipation of the storm cycle, our guide teams proactively took down and cached high camp earlier this week, operating for two nights directly out of Camp Muir while the weather moved through. Despite the challenging conditions, our most recent team successfully reached the summit on Tuesday, climbing from Camp Muir and taking advantage of a favorable weather window.  With improving weather and warmer temperatures in the forecast, we are planning to reestablish high camp later this week as operations return to a more typical early-season pattern.

On the Emmons Route, our current team is making its way to Camp Schurman today and is aiming for a summit attempt tomorrow. We look forward to hearing their field observations and receiving an updated conditions report from the east side of the mountain. Our next Kautz climb is launching shortly and should provide valuable information on conditions in the coming week.

Route conditions continue to evolve. The Ingraham Direct remains the primary route being used, although guides are monitoring conditions closely as warming temperatures and glacier movement continue to reshape the route. Climbers should expect changing conditions and be prepared for everything from fresh snow to firm alpine ice depending on elevation, aspect, and time of day.

Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)

Mount Baker climbing conditions remain favorable for early June. Teams climbing both the Easton and Coleman-Deming routes have generally found good snow coverage and straightforward glacier travel for this time of year. Our Baker programs continue to operate from the south side due to the ongoing road washout affecting north side access. Climbers utilizing the north side should continue to expect a significant road walk.

The Mount Baker Highway is open to Heather Meadows, while the Artist Point Road remains snow covered and is expected to open later this month or in early July.

North Cascades

The North Cascades remain very much in a transitional spring-to-summer pattern. Significant snow still exists at higher elevations, and many alpine approaches continue to involve snow travel. Climbers heading into the North Cascades should plan for winter-like conditions on north-facing slopes and glacier routes.  One notable update is that the North Cascades Highway (SR 20) remains closed due to winter storm damage and spring rockslides. WSDOT is currently targeting June 25 for a full reopening of the highway, which will significantly improve access to Washington Pass and many popular North Cascades objectives.  Additionally, Cascade River Road remains closed at Eldorado, limiting vehicle access deeper into the national park. Parties heading toward Eldorado Peak, Boston Basin, and other classic objectives should verify current road conditions before departing.

The Cascades climbing season continues to move forward, with teams enjoying generally favorable weather and good climbing conditions throughout much of the state. Guides are beginning to observe the seasonal changes that come with warmer temperatures and longer days.  The current forecast suggests continued periods of stable weather intermixed with typical spring systems moving through the region. Climbers should continue to prepare for a wide range of mountain conditions and remember that route conditions are changing rapidly as we move deeper into June.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)

Today, our team climbing the Muir route departed Ingraham Flats (high camp) and successfully reached the summit of Mount Rainier via the Ingraham Direct Route with 100% success! Guides reported good travel conditions overall and an enjoyable climb to the summit. Between high camp and 13,200ft there are currently 3 ladder crossings on the route. Based on current observations, we anticipate that our guide team will likely transition to the Disappointment Cleaver Route in the near future. Over on the Emmons route our team is reporting favorable climbing conditions and ample seasonal snow on the Interglacier and Emmons glacier. For both trips we using double boots at this time and still recommending starting from trailhead in boots.

Mount Baker (Komo Kulshan)

Mount Baker continues to provide excellent climbing and skiing conditions. Teams have been active on both the south and north sides of the mountain.  On the south side, climbers and skiers are finding good snow coverage and straightforward access. Our seasonal Baker camp at 6,200ft is fully setup and climbers are enjoying the 2m Dome tent and the pre-setup camp. On the north side, teams continue to utilize the Coleman-Deming Route, though climbers should be prepared for the longer approach due to the road washout that remains in place below the trailhead. Despite the additional walking, guides report that climbing conditions on the upper mountain remain very good and summited via the North Ridge of Baker.

North Cascades

Teams are climbing across areas of the North Cascades National Park including ascents on Shuksan, Washington Pass, and various other peaks including Glacier Peak in the heart of the Cascades. As a reminder access to Washington Pass over highway 20 remains closed. Climbers heading to Washington Pass will need to access this area by driving to Mazama first until the highway is reopened.

Happy Climbing!

Hello climbers,

The past week has brought a mix of classic spring Cascade conditions, with warm temperatures early in the week followed by a return to cooler weather, stronger winds, and periods of precipitation across the range. While snowpack remains below average for this time of year, climbers continue to find good climbing conditions on the major glaciated peaks, and overall mountain access remains excellent. Recent weather systems have helped preserve snow coverage at higher elevations while keeping travel conditions variable from day to day.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)

Our most recent climb reached the summit today via the Ingraham Direct (ID) route. Guides reported generally good travel conditions on the upper mountain and firm snow surfaces. There are currently 3 ladders in place on the Ingraham Direct climbing route. Our guide teams have also been actively working on the Disappointment Cleaver (DC) route. While the Ingraham Direct remains the primary climbing route at this time, we anticipate a transition back to the DC route within the next 7–10 days as crews continue route work and conditions evolve on the upper mountain.

Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)

Mount Baker continues to offer excellent early-season climbing and skiing conditions. Snow coverage remains good on both the Easton and Coleman-Deming routes, and glacier travel remains relatively straightforward for this time of year. Ski teams are still finding quality turns on the upper mountain, though lower elevations are beginning to show signs of seasonal melt-out. Warm periods earlier in the month accelerated snow loss below treeline, but recent cooler temperatures have slowed that trend.

As always, conditions in the Cascades can change rapidly. Our guide staff continues to monitor routes daily, and we will provide additional updates as the season progresses.

Climb safe and enjoy the start of another great Cascade season!