The past week has brought a stretch of high pressure across the Pacific Northwest, delivering phenomenal weather and excellent climbing conditions throughout the Cascades. Our teams have taken full advantage of the sunshine, with successful ascents on Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, Mount Adams, and numerous peaks in the North Cascades. Warm temperatures are accelerating snowmelt at lower elevations, so travel approaches are becoming more straightforward. Many of the low elevation trails in the North Cascades and Mt Rainier still have seasonal snow and sections that are very muddy.
Mount Rainier – Climbing conditions on Mount Rainier are currently excellent across all major routes. On the Muir Route, teams have transitioned to the summer trail leading up to Pan Point and Pebble Creek. The Muir Snowfield is in great shape, offering direct, firm, and efficient travel. Higher on the route, the Disappointment Cleaver is climbing very well—about 50% of it is now snow-free as of yesterday, and the rest is melting quickly. Despite the ongoing melt, the Cleaver remains in solid condition, and the route above 12,500 feet is well established, with a consistent, climber-friendly track to the summit. Over on the Emmons-Winthrop Route, guides are reporting excellent travel conditions. The Inter Glacier provides smooth access up to Camp Schurman, and the upper mountain via the Emmons Glacier is holding up beautifully. A recent Alpine Ascents team had six climbers reach the summit in calm, stable weather—an encouraging sign for those headed that way in the coming weeks. The Kautz Route is also climbing phenomenally well. Our most recent team had 100% climber success two days ago. The ice pitches are in good condition, and the glacier travel sections are straightforward, making for a highly enjoyable ascent overall. Despite the warm temperatures during the day, double boots are still recommended for all Rainier routes. Early morning summit pushes and time spent at high elevations continue to demand warm, protective footwear for safety and comfort.
Mount Baker, Mount Adams & the North Cascades
Mount Baker continues to deliver outstanding conditions on both the North and South side routes. Daily summits are being reported, with consistent snow coverage, minimal crevasse hazards, and firm travel during the early morning hours. The seasonal snowpack is receding quickly with the recent heat, and access is steadily improving—you can now nearly drive all the way to the trailhead. On the North Side of the mountain, running water is now available at high camp, which has made water access more convenient for teams. On the South Side, however, there is still no running water at camp, so climbers should plan to melt snow as part of their water management strategy. Mount Adams has also been a highlight this past week. Guides have reported excellent climbing conditions and recent ski descents directly from the summit—making for both an enjoyable ascent and a rewarding ride down. Across the broader North Cascades, a variety of alpine rock and glacier climbs are beginning to come into season. With snowlines receding rapidly, climbers should expect a mix of terrain—approaches may start on snow in the morning and finish on dry trail by the afternoon.
