CASCADES CONDITIONS REPORT 6/12/2024

Greeting follow climbers!

Summer has arrived to the Pacific Northwest! With the recent long periods of sunny weather, teams all over the state have been climbing and getting out enjoying the mountains. Teams have been reaching the top of peaks across the region, from deep in the North Cascades to alpine rock routes to Mt Rainier and Mt Adams.We see continued high pressure with more sunny days are on the horizon. One of the best forecasts for climbing on Rainier is the UW Mt Rainier Recreation Forecast, published twice daily. Check it out for the latest and greatest on Rainier conditions! Heading north, up in Alaska our first 5 Denali expeditions have summited and are back in Talkeenta. Team 6 and 7 are at high camp and teams 8 and 9 are at 14k camp both waiting for a weather window to tag the highest peak in North America.

Koma Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades

Over the past week our 3 day Mt Baker climbs and mountaineering courses have been reporting excellent climbing conditions on the Easton and Coleman Deming glacier. Guides report that the glacier is very filled in and the route is direct to the summit on both routes. Our first North Ridge Baker trip of the season launched and found phenomenal steep snow/ice conditions as they climbed the classic North Ridge route to the summit of Mt Baker. With the mountain still very snowy we are recommending double boots and wearing them from the parking lot at this time. Over in Washington Pass, our alpine rock course reported that routes are still snowy and climbers should be prepared for snow on the approaches to all the spires in the area.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

The Paradise snow stake is slow melting as summer has approached. There is still over 6ft of snow at Paradise and climbers are wearing double boots from the parking lot for all Rainier trips. With the recent snow melt we are starting to transition to the summer route up to the Muir Snowfield traveling through pebble creek. On the Muir route, teams over the past week have been summitting daily and reporting that the mountain is in good condition. We are climbing the Disappointment Cleaver – which is 80% snow covered. The route is direct from the top of the cleaver with a several switchbacks as it nears 13,000 ft. At 13,000 ft the route is direct to the summit and crater rim. Currently there are no ladders in place on the Muir route.

Thank you for following up our blog, and happy climbing!

We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for next week’s update

Rainier/Cascades BLOG

  • Cascades Conditions Report 7/17/2024

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  • CASCADES CONDITIONS REPORT 7/15/2024

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