Hello climbers,
Climbing conditions in the Cascades are shaping up beautifully as we head into the summer season. Recent warm weather has accelerated snow melt, opening access to more routes and improving conditions across many alpine objectives across the region. With the Summer Solstice just around the corner, we’re enjoying the longest days of the year—providing more daylight, flexible start times, and excellent opportunities for climbing. The weather for the week continues to look sunny with high freezing levels and overall it’s a fantastic time to get out and climb.
Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
The Muir route has officially shifted from the Ingraham Direct to the Disappointment Cleaver. The new route climbs mostly on snow, but the Cleaver is melting quick. Each of our teams this week have summited via the new route and reported great, direct climbing. On the Emmons side of the mountain, the trail to Glacier Basin is now snow-free and approach shoes are recommended. The upper mountain is in good shape, and with a deep snowpack the route should stay in solid climbing condition for the foreseeable future.
Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)
Conditions on all sides of Mt Baker have been in fantastic shape for climbing. The Easton Glacier is slowly starting to show some cracks, but it’s not impacting the current condition of the climbing route. The route remains very straightforward from camp, and teams have been getting a slightly earlier start just to beat the heat while climbing. This week, our teams saw great climbing conditions on the North Ridge, and guides noted that the route was in stellar shape. We see the same favorable conditions on the Coleman-Deming route, as well. The road to the north side is still washed out, expect a couple hours of additional hiking to get to camp.
The Cascades
Conditions are finally ready for the alpine climbing season in Washington. Recent warm temperatures have caused many routes to shed snow, and opened access to the classic climbs all around Cascades. Highway 20 officially reopened for quicker access to Washington Pass where climbers have been enjoying the routes on the Liberty Bell and South Early Winters Spire. It’s getting warm midday in Mazama, but early starts have provided great temperatures for rock climbing on the Goat Wall. Our first trips to Olympus and Glacier Peak are currently in the field, so stay tuned for route updates in those areas!
Happy climbing!
