As August comes to a close, the early change to fall is starting to take place up high in the mountains. Temperatures are starting to drop and rounds of precipitation are becoming a bit more frequent. Freezing levels are dropping to around 8000’ heading into the weekend and there’s a slight chance of small amount of snow on the upper parts of the volcanoes. Near the end of the weekend into early next week the weather clears and freeze levels increase slightly. The cooling trend and slight amounts of precipitation should be great for keeping climbing routes in good shape for late season.
Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
The standard climbing route up Muir is still holding up. The snowfield is changing and climbers should expect a few firmer sections getting to Camp Muir. A few small cracks have also opened up on the snowfield. Climbers will be carrying rental crampons up and down the snowfield because of these changes for the remainder of the season. The upper mountain is climbing well. A couple double ladders exist with handlines to get over some larger crevasses below and above the Disappointment Cleaver. The route still traverses over to the Emmons Shoulder on a well developed climbing path and continues up from there to the summit.
Mount Baker (Komo Kulshan)
To everyone’s surprise, not much has changed on the Easton Glacier. The route is still in great shape. A few more crevasses have opened up mid mountain that are easily passable and not causing any issues to the standard route. A crevasse around 9,500’, which has been on everyone’s radar for the last few weeks continues to remain in good enough shape to pass around. Finally, the Roman Headwall still is climbing straightforward on a well developed path to the top.
Cascades
As the summer season begins to wind down, so does a lot of alpine climbing in the Cascades. Smoke has continued to not effect climbing throughout the North Cascades, however has impacted places like Washington Pass. Overall, as long as the precipitation holds off, it’s a great time to be out in the North Cascades with cooler temperatures and less crowds. Climbers recently went up the Sulphide Glacier and reported that the glacier has a few open cracks but overall is in great shape. Another team went into Vesper Peak to climb Ragged Edges and reported that the route was in stellar shape.
