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Aili Farquhar

Aili Farquhar

Guide: Alaska

Aili Farquhar followed her love of wilderness west from New England in 2000 for a summer internship as a backcountry ranger in Olympic National Park.  Here she found her passion, and worked in National Forests and Parks in Wyoming and Washington for 6 years as a ranger, surveyor and firefighter. She earned her degree in Environmental Science and Writing in Washington from The Evergreen State College in 2008 while working on commercial salmon and crab boats.   Her love of technical climbing prevailed, and she began guiding in the Cascades in 2010.  Aili has since guided rock, ice and skiing in the Cascades, Olympics, Tetons, Wind Rivers, San Juans, and on Denali. She now splits time between guiding and working as an MWD Field Engineer on drilling rigs in Wyoming and North Dakota.

Aili is working towards full certification with the American Mountain Guides Association in the Rock, Alpine and Ski disciplines.  She is happiest pursuing technical climbs, obscure traverses and ski descents at high altitudes or in remote areas.  Time off finds her climbing and skiing in her beloved Wind River and Olympic Mountains or road tripping to waterfall ice and desert rock.  She and her rescue cat Juniper make their home in and around Jackson, Wyoming.

Significant Ascents

Significant Guided Ascents:

Denali (6 Expeditions)

Glacier Peak
North Face of Buckner
Bailey Range Traverse
Custom Olympic Range Traverses

Grand Teton
Pingora Peak
Wolf’s Head Traverse

Rest of the USA:
Mt. Whitney

Significant Personal Ascents:
Harvard Route, Mt Huntington, Alaska Range VI, 5.9 M5 A2, 2013
Direct West Buttress of Denali from Polo Field AI3 M4 IV
Bacon and Eggs, Kahiltna Glacier, AI 4+ AK IV
SW Ridge Francis IV, 5.8 May 2012, Alaska Range
North Summit of Denali 19,470 ft ,2010
Car-to Car Cathedral Traverse, (Teewinot, Owen, Grand) 2013
Mt. Helen – Tower 1 Gully to Tower Ridge IV, AI3 5.8, Wind Rivers
Rainier, 4 routes
Baker, Adams, Hood – Numerous Routes and Ski Descents
2 Winter Traverses of Olympic Mountains
Numerous alpine rock and ice routes in Wyoming, Washington, Nevada (Red Rocks), Colorado, Utah, Montana, California and Argentina
Aconcagua, Argentina
Orizaba, Mexico
Iztacchihuatl, Mexico


Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Trainer

Awards & Recognition

2017 AMGA Patagonia Scholarship

I really enjoyed the course. The venue was spectacular. In particular, I found the rope handling and crevasse rescue skills useful. My snow camping skills were also improved during the course. I feel competent with all skills covered by the class. I would be ready to use them on future climbs. B


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    Sometimes the harsh environment encountered in mountaineering can make even the simplest tasks difficult. Staying hydrated is a perfect example – something that is among the most banal of tasks in the lowcountry can become exceedingly complicated in a cold, snowy environment. When all available water is locked up in solid form as snow or […]

  • webbing, anchor, water knot


    The following is the fifth in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches used in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the bowline and ring bend, and hitches like the Klemheist and Prusik! The water knot is a simple knot used to tie two ends of webbing […]

  • Knots and Hitches: The Figure 8 Follow Through

    The following is the fifth in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches we use in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the bowline, ring bend- and hitches like the Klemheist & Prusik! The Figure 8 follow through is a standard knot used for many different purposes […]

Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
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