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Aili Farquhar

Aili Farquhar

Guide: Alaska

Aili Farquhar followed her love of wilderness west from New England in 2000 for a summer internship as a backcountry ranger in Olympic National Park.  Here she found her passion, and worked in National Forests and Parks in Wyoming and Washington for 6 years as a ranger, surveyor and firefighter. She earned her degree in Environmental Science and Writing in Washington from The Evergreen State College in 2008 while working on commercial salmon and crab boats.   Her love of technical climbing prevailed, and she began guiding in the Cascades in 2010.  Aili has since guided rock, ice and skiing in the Cascades, Olympics, Tetons, Wind Rivers, San Juans, and on Denali. She now splits time between guiding and working as an MWD Field Engineer on drilling rigs in Wyoming and North Dakota.

Aili is working towards full certification with the American Mountain Guides Association in the Rock, Alpine and Ski disciplines.  She is happiest pursuing technical climbs, obscure traverses and ski descents at high altitudes or in remote areas.  Time off finds her climbing and skiing in her beloved Wind River and Olympic Mountains or road tripping to waterfall ice and desert rock.  She and her rescue cat Juniper make their home in and around Jackson, Wyoming.

Significant Ascents

Significant Guided Ascents:

Denali (6 Expeditions)

Glacier Peak
North Face of Buckner
Bailey Range Traverse
Custom Olympic Range Traverses

Grand Teton
Pingora Peak
Wolf’s Head Traverse

Rest of the USA:
Mt. Whitney

Significant Personal Ascents:
Harvard Route, Mt Huntington, Alaska Range VI, 5.9 M5 A2, 2013
Direct West Buttress of Denali from Polo Field AI3 M4 IV
Bacon and Eggs, Kahiltna Glacier, AI 4+ AK IV
SW Ridge Francis IV, 5.8 May 2012, Alaska Range
North Summit of Denali 19,470 ft ,2010
Car-to Car Cathedral Traverse, (Teewinot, Owen, Grand) 2013
Mt. Helen – Tower 1 Gully to Tower Ridge IV, AI3 5.8, Wind Rivers
Rainier, 4 routes
Baker, Adams, Hood – Numerous Routes and Ski Descents
2 Winter Traverses of Olympic Mountains
Numerous alpine rock and ice routes in Wyoming, Washington, Nevada (Red Rocks), Colorado, Utah, Montana, California and Argentina
Aconcagua, Argentina
Orizaba, Mexico
Iztacchihuatl, Mexico


Wilderness First Responder
Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Trainer

Awards & Recognition

2017 AMGA Patagonia Scholarship

I was very satisfied with the amount that I learned during the course and feel that I had enough time/opportunity to practice newly learned skills. I feel confident in my ability to make smart decisions to avoid a rescue situation, but also feel confident that should I find myself in a rescue situation I now know what to do.


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Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
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