Eddie Schoen

Eddie Schoen

Guide: Washington, Alaska

Eddie grew up surrounded by the towering peaks of Chicago’s skyscrapers, a long way from the snowy and rocky peaks that he now calls home. An all-around climber and skier, Eddie’s favorite objectives in the mountains involve climbing a technical line with skis strapped to his pack and skiing all the way from the summit to the parking lot. From bouldering in the gym, to clipping bolts in the sunshine, to multi-day expeditions on snow-covered peaks, he loves it all the same. Any day in the mountains with Eddie will involve some combination of faking a vaguely European accent, freestyle rapping, improvised folk singing, bad dancing, and perhaps a poor attempt at yodeling. No matter how bad the weather gets, or how tired your legs feel, Eddie will do his best to have you cracking a smile and enjoying every moment in the hills.

Additional facts (and lore): Eddie is a certified yoga teacher, licensed EMT, former CPA, and just three exams away from becoming an IFMGA/AMGA certified Mountain Guide. He can save your life, do your taxes, guide you through the mountains, teach you to meditate, and even write you a song. He has two alter egos. One is a 80’s hair metal rock star with a German accent. The other is a country music superstar. Either can show up without warning. One of Eddie’s life goals is to climb and ski (yes, ski) all fifty U.S. state highpoints.

Guide For:

Denali

Significant Ascents

Denali
Mt Rainier – 4 different routes, 2 summit ski descents, single day climb and ski descent
Mt Baker – 3 different routes & ski descents
Mt Shuksan – Fisher Chimneys & ski descent
Mt Hood – 2 different routes & ski descents
Forbidden Peak, WA Cascades – North Ridge
Mt Francis, Alaska Range, AK
Shiva’s Shattered Chandelier (WI6+, M6, 5,000m), Garhwal Himalaya, India
Personal expedition and attempt on Shivling (6,500m), Garhwal Himalaya, India
Grand Teton – via 5 different routes
Teton Grand Traverse – solo, single day
Long’s Peak, CO – East Face (ie, The Diamond)
Gannet Peak, WY Wind River Range – via 2 routes
Mt Chitokaniushi, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Mt Tokachi, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Mt Iwaonupuri, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Mt Shiribetsu, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Various Colorado 14ers (winter, ski descents)
Technical rock climbs up to 5.13
Technical ice climbs up to WI6

Certifications

Wilderness First Responder
Wilderness EMT
LNT Trainer
American Avalanche Institute Professional Level 2 (Level III equivalent)
AIARE Certified Level I & II Avalanche Instructor
AMGA Rock Guide Course
AMGA Alpine Guide Course
AMGA Ski Guide Course
AMGA Ice Instructor Course
AMGA Advanced Rock Guide Course/Aspirant Exam
AMGA Advanced Alpine Guide Course/Aspirant Exam
AMGA Advanced Ski Guide Course/Aspirant Exam
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor

Yes I enjoyed this expedition very much! The backdrop of Denali National Park is amazing. The program was well organized and scheduled to optimize the chance of success for a summit which we did. The food was phenomenal despite the austere environment.

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