Eddie Schoen

    Eddie Schoen

    Guide: Washington, Alaska

    Eddie is an IFMGA / American Mountain Guide with a problematic dependency on good coffee and pizza. From Denali to Hokkaido, he loves to share the amazing breadth of experiences across rock, snow, and ice that the world’s mountains offer up. Having worked in the Tetons, Colorado’s Front Range, Japan, and Alaska, no place has captured his love and imagination quite like Washington’s Cascades. The art of moving through the mountains is a life-long pursuit, and Eddie loves sharing what he has learned so far with each and every guest no matter the medium.

    Take 5 with the Guide

    If you could only take one album on an expedition?
    Deja Vu – CSNY

    Favorite movie?
    The Big Lebowski

    Most beloved book?
    Jitterbug Perfume – Tom Robbins

    Dream climbing partner for your dream climb?
    Eiger Nordwand with a local

    In another life, I’d…
    be a troubadour

    Guide For:


    Significant Ascents

    Mt Rainier – 4 different routes, 2 summit ski descents, single day climb and ski descent
    Mt Baker – 3 different routes & ski descents
    Mt Shuksan – Fisher Chimneys & ski descent
    Mt Hood – 2 different routes & ski descents
    Forbidden Peak, WA Cascades – North Ridge
    Mt Francis, Alaska Range, AK
    Shiva’s Shattered Chandelier (WI6+, M6, 5,000m), Garhwal Himalaya, India
    Personal expedition and attempt on Shivling (6,500m), Garhwal Himalaya, India
    Grand Teton – via 5 different routes
    Teton Grand Traverse – solo, single day
    Long’s Peak, CO – East Face (ie, The Diamond)
    Gannet Peak, WY Wind River Range – via 2 routes
    Mt Chitokaniushi, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
    Mt Tokachi, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
    Mt Iwaonupuri, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
    Mt Shiribetsu, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
    Various Colorado 14ers (winter, ski descents)
    Technical rock climbs up to 5.13
    Technical ice climbs up to WI6


    Wilderness First Responder
    Wilderness EMT
    LNT Trainer
    American Avalanche Institute Professional Level 2 (Level III equivalent)
    AIARE Certified Level I & II Avalanche Instructor
    IFMGA Certified Guide
    AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor


    If you want a first rate unparalleled experience, you will go with Alpine Ascents. I am biased of course, but I have had friends go to the same mountain with different services only to find themselves going back with Alpine Ascents because it just can’t be done any better

    Denali BLOG

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