Eddie Schoen

Eddie is an IFMGA / American Mountain Guide with a problematic dependency on good coffee and pizza. From Denali to Hokkaido, he loves to share the amazing breadth of experiences across rock, snow, and ice that the world’s mountains offer up. Having worked in the Tetons, Colorado’s Front Range, Japan, and Alaska, no place has captured his love and imagination quite like Washington’s Cascades. The art of moving through the mountains is a life-long pursuit, and Eddie loves sharing what he has learned so far with each and every guest no matter the medium.
Take 5 with the Guide
If you could only take one album on an expedition?
Deja Vu – CSNY
Favorite movie?
The Big Lebowski
Most beloved book?
Jitterbug Perfume – Tom Robbins
Dream climbing partner for your dream climb?
Eiger Nordwand with a local
In another life, I’d…
be a troubadour
Significant Ascents
Denali
Mt Rainier – 4 different routes, 2 summit ski descents, single day climb and ski descent
Mt Baker – 3 different routes & ski descents
Mt Shuksan – Fisher Chimneys & ski descent
Mt Hood – 2 different routes & ski descents
Forbidden Peak, WA Cascades – North Ridge
Mt Francis, Alaska Range, AK
Shiva’s Shattered Chandelier (WI6+, M6, 5,000m), Garhwal Himalaya, India
Personal expedition and attempt on Shivling (6,500m), Garhwal Himalaya, India
Grand Teton – via 5 different routes
Teton Grand Traverse – solo, single day
Long’s Peak, CO – East Face (ie, The Diamond)
Gannet Peak, WY Wind River Range – via 2 routes
Mt Chitokaniushi, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Mt Tokachi, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Mt Iwaonupuri, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Mt Shiribetsu, Hokkaido, Japan – winter ascent & ski descent
Various Colorado 14ers (winter, ski descents)
Technical rock climbs up to 5.13
Technical ice climbs up to WI6
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder
Wilderness EMT
LNT Trainer
American Avalanche Institute Professional Level 2 (Level III equivalent)
AIARE Certified Level I & II Avalanche Instructor
IFMGA Certified Guide
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
If you want a first rate unparalleled experience, you will go with Alpine Ascents. I am biased of course, but I have had friends go to the same mountain with different services only to find themselves going back with Alpine Ascents because it just can’t be done any better