Gary Newmeyer

    Gary Newmeyer

    Guide: Washington, Alaska

    Gary started climbing in 2010 when he lived in Anacortes, WA while stationed there in the Navy. His roommate talked him into bouldering on Mt. Erie. After getting hooked, Gary left the country for a 7 month deployment in the Middle East. To fill the void of not actually climbing, Gary read books, forums, watched videos, practiced knots and rescue from the top of his bunk to fill the void of not being able to actually climb. This turned out to be a great way to build a solid and knowledgeable foundation of skills. He also ordered a lot of gear to be sent home. When he finished deployment, there was a giant stack of climbing gear waiting to be used.

    This is when things got serious. This was Gary’s last few months in the Navy, and his first summer in WA. He enjoyed learning outdoor rock climbing at Mt. Erie, and soon hooked up with fellow AAI Guide Lee Lazzara for some outings.  After his enlistment in the Navy, Gary moved to Durango, CO for sunny weather and to pursue his new found love for rock climbing. This is also where he met another soon-to-be AAI Guide, Nik Mirhashemi. Nik and Gary started climbing together exclusively. Gary became interested in guiding and became an AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor in 2013 and thus kicked off his guiding career.

    Gary started guiding for Kling Mountain Guides in Durango, and continued to progress as a mountain guide with training thru the AMGA. He has traveled all around the west, and is in love with the sandstone climbing in the Moab and Red Rock areas. Gary continued to work based out of Durango for 4 years, until bigger terrain and more interest in alpine, ice, and mountaineering objectives brought him to the Pacific Northwest and Alpine Ascents International. Guiding in the PNW is a pivotal step in a guides’ career and Gary is excited to continue pursuing IFMGA Guide status and explore new terrain!

    Take 5 with the Guide

    If you could only take one album on an expedition?
    Paspatou – Parra for Cuva according to Spotify 2021 Wrapped

    Favorite movie?
    The Secret Life of Walter Mitty

    What was your first mountain?
    Mt Adams attempt with 6 internet strangers in 2011.

    In another life, I’d…
    fly airplanes

    One piece of advice for aspiring mountaineers?
    Don’t bring too much stuff.

    Guide For:

    Denali

    Significant Ascents

    First Ascents:
    The Chef – Vallecito, CO [III 5.9 5 pitches]
    Da Cherry on Top! – Vallecito, CO [III 5.9+ 6 pitches]
    Belly of the Beast – Telluride, CO [IV WI5+ M6 C1 X 6 pitches]
    93,000,000 Miles – Red Rock Canyon, NV [IV 5.7 2,600’]
    Sylas – Durango, CO [5.11+, 1 pitch]

    Rock
    The Warrior – Red Rock, NV [IV 5.11- 7 pitches]
    Cloud Tower – Red Rock, NV [IV 5.12- 6 pitches]
    The Scenic Cruise – Black Canyon, CO [IV 5.10d 13 pitches]
    Primrose Dihedrals – Canyonlands, UT [IV 5.11+ 7 pitches]
    Epinephrine – Red Rock, NV [IV 5.9 13 pitches] (Guided)
    Russian Arête – Black Canyon, CO [IV 5.9+ 1,800’] (Guided)
    Resolution Arête – Red Rock, NV [V 5.10 C1 24 pitches]

    Alpine
    Little Bear Peak [14,037’] > Blanca Peak [14,345’] > Ellingwood Point [14,042’] Traverse – CO
    Cathedral Traverse – Grand Teton National Park, WY
    Northeast Face of Pingora Peak – Wind River Range, WY [IV 5.8+ 12 pitches]
    Direct North Ridge of Mt. Stuart – North Cascades, WA [IV 5.9+ 20 pitches]
    Kautz Glacier Route – Mt. Rainier, WA (Guided)
    Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak – San Juan Mountains, CO [III 5.4 10 pitches] (Guided)

    Ice
    Bridalveil Falls – Telluride, CO [III WI5+ 3 pitches]
    Ames Ice Hose – Telluride, CO [III WI5 3 pitches]

    Ski
    South Face of Engineer Mountain [12,972] – San Juan Mountains, CO
    Southeast Face of Sultan Mountain [13,368’] – San Juan Mountains, CO

    Certifications

    Wilderness First Responder & CPR
    AIARE Avalanche Level II
    Leave No Trace Trainer
    AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
    AMGA Rock Guide
    AMGA Alpine Guide

    amga-rockamga-alpine

    Our Denali climb was recommended by Lonely Planet, 2017.

    Denali BLOG

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      by Brooke Warren Denali “The High One” is the third highest of the seven summits, right behind Everest and Aconcagua, at 20,310 feet. It is an “ultra-prominent” peak with soaring vertical relief of 18,000 feet, greater even than Mount Everest (a mere 12,000′ of vertical relief) when measured from its 2,000-foot lowlands to its lofty […]

    • Dear Alpine Ascents: Insulating Ice Axe Handles?

      Hey Alpine, I’m headed up to Denali this May (!!!!) and I heard that climbers insulate their ice axes? Interesting… What’s the rationale and how do I do it? Thanks in advance and see you in Talkeetna! Sincerely, Seeking Toasty Mitts Hi Toast Mitts, Thanks for reaching out and stoked you’re headed up to the […]

    • Selecting Snowshoes for Expeditions

      If you are preparing to embark on a Denali Prep course or a Denali expedition with Alpine Ascents, you are also about to enter into the wonderful world of snowshoe travel. There are several reasons for our unilateral use of snowshoes over skis on these trips. First, the learning curve for snowshoeing is far less […]

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