John Van Nostrand

John Van Nostrand

Guide: Washington, Alaska, International

John comes to AAI with over 17 years of guiding experience and over a decade of nursing experience in critical care and emergency medicine. He completed a graduate degree in Nursing from The University of Colorado and is a Certified Nurse Practitioner and works in Internal Medicine as a Hospitalist. He is also pediatric life support, advanced life support and a trauma certified nurse. John specializes in advanced and complex wound care. Additionally John is very interested in wilderness medicine and teaches Wilderness First Responder courses for Desert Mountain Medicine.

John grew up rock climbing in New England before moving to Colorado where he now lives in Carbondale and escapes to a tiny house in Marble, CO with his wife and wolf hound for weekends. He has 22 years of rock climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering experience and has worked for Alpine Ascents International for the last 6 years guiding in the Cascades, Alaska, Argentina and Nepal. John’s main passion include growing a beard, training Tony Yaniro style in his garage and establishing new rock climbs on the Western Slope of Colorado. He has over 100 first ascents to his name. John hopes to share his passion for climbing and healthy living to all. His priority is to provide high quality guided experiences to all his clients at Alpine Ascents International.

Guide For:

Aconcagua

Significant Ascents

Rock Climbs
Regularly climbs 5.13 sport.
Over 100 first rock climbing ascents in Colorado alone, overwhelmingly in the 5.12-5.13 range.
Several Yosemite classics including El Cap’s Nose, Half dome and Washington’s Column.
Dozens of Routes in the Italian Dolomites including The Tre Chime di Lavaredo and Tofana di Rozes.
Alaskan Ruth Glacier Expeditions including The Stump’s Gold Finger.
Alaskan Little Switzerland Glacier Rock Climbs.
Elk Mountains Capital Peak Northwest Buttress.
El Potrero Chico classics such as Mike Lewis’s Guppy in the Surfa Rosa cave.
Almost a dozen Black Canyon of the Gunnison big wall climbs.
Many of Squamish British Columbia’s incredible cracks.

Desert Climbs
Several routes on Grand Junctions Independence Monument and the Desert Solitaire Buttress.
The Fisher Towers classic Ancient Art (No Aid)
Multiple routes on Castleton Tower and The Rectory including Fine Jade.
Red Rock’s The Rainbow Wall and incredible Texinepherine.
Escalante’s 5.10+++ Redneck Just-us.
Zion’s Moonlight Buttress.

Alpine Climbs
The High Sierra’s Merriam Peaks North Buttress, and solo ascent of Bear Claw Spire.
Winter ascent of the Sierra’s Incredible Hulk’s Red Dihedral.
Many of Tuolumne Meadows classics including Oz and Fairview Dome.
Northern Patagonian Frey routes including Torre Principal and Aguja Champanile.
The North Cascades Liberty Crack.
Washington’s Mt. Stuart’s direct North Ridge.
Rocky Mountain National Parks Diamond

Significant Mountaineering Objectives
Sub 24 hour Solo of the Matterhorn’s Hornli Ridge.
2006 Ama Dablam Expedition.
Three Denali Expeditions.
Two Aconcagua Expeditions.
Several Northwest volcanos including Mt. Baker, Mt. Hood, Mt Adams and 6 routes on Rainier including Liberty Ridge.
Speed ascent of the Solu-Khumbu’s Lobuche Peak.
Over 12 winter ascents of Mount Washington including most Ice Routes in Huntington Ravine.

Ski Mountaineering
6th Person to ever complete the Elk Mountains Highlands ridge Traverse.
Tope 10 placement multiple years in Aspen’s Power of Four 13,000 vertical feet of climbing Ski Mountaineering Race.

Significant Ice and Mixed Climbs
Colorado Classics including Stairway to Heaven, The Drool, The Ribbon, The Rigid Designator and Ouray Ice Parks WI5+.
Many of New Hampshire’s Frankenstein Ice classics.
Regularly dry tools M11 such as Colorado’s “Agua.”

Certifications

Registered Nurse
Basic Life Support
Advanced Cardiac Life Support
Leave No Trace Trainer
Avalanche Level I

Great expedition. Thoroughly organized and executed very well. Park Hyatt in Mendoza is top notch & staff respects AAI. All logistics were executed without any issues. Well done. Food on mountain was excellent. Lots of fun and always felt safe. All our guides were personable and easy to get along with. I felt at ease […]

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Ice Axes: Selecting a Size & Style

    An ice axe is a critical piece of mountain equipment. Not only does it need to be suited for the terrain you will be encountering on a given peak, but it also needs to be sized correctly. As with most gear, the array of choices can be overwhelming, so we are going to break down […]

  • Two silhouettes clink beverages in the early morning in view of the Andes Mountains.

    Expedition Mindset: When “Showing Up” Means More than Physically Arriving

    The anticipation and physical preparation have been exhausting. The iron has been pumped. You have been ripping up stair sets for breakfast. Every precious ounce of your kit is honed. But have you stretched your expedition mindset? An expedition is much more than the physical climb of a single mountain. For several weeks you will […]

  • Tents near Denali Base Camp.

    What to Expect: Denali Expeditions

    In this series, we break down what to expect at the start of our expeditions. Where will you stay? Are there any tips or tricks to make the trip begin more smoothly? Though a Denali expedition can last 20+ days, the first two days can set the tone for the rest of the journey. While […]

Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
© Copyright 2019 All Rights Reserved. Alpine Ascents International