Mark Puleio
Mark is a native New Englander who has always been in love with skiing, which led him naturally toward a life in the mountains and a myriad of exploratory adventures therein. Mark completed his BA in Wilderness Leadership from Prescott College in Arizona in 1994. This comprehensive learning and mentorship opportunity provided a solid and diverse foundation to begin his career as a professional guide which he began in 1994. In March 2008, he completed his full guide certification becoming an internationally licensed IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide. In conjunction to guiding from 1998 till 2018, Mark helped to create curriculum and instruct skill-focused leadership development programs for a number of local Vermont colleges and universities, focusing on technical climbing, skiing and avalanche awareness. These experiences complement and inform his guiding style by providing him with a broader understanding of experiential education practices, instruction and development for aspiring wilderness leaders.
Homeschooling his three children since 2009 has been his magnum opus which has only brought greater gratitude and respect for the mountains where he lives and works. Since 2008, Mark has spent four months a year in the Alps guiding alpine and rock routes, ski tours and off-piste skiing. The shoulder seasons are now for working on sailing and sport climbing trips in the Mediterranean in venues such as Sicily, Sardinia and Kalymnos. Mark has on-sight guided many of the grand courses of the Alps including two of the six great north faces and has opened up over a dozen new ski descents in St. Elias range of Alaska and in the Arctic circle of Svalbard. These experiences allow Mark to be equally comfortable guiding people on ski tours from Svalvard to Vermont, and on alpine routes from the north face of the Piz Badile to Smuggler’s Notch, Vermont. Mark’s guiding philosophy is best summed up in the words of Dolores LaChapelle, “When you dance with the mountain the mountain always leads.”
Significant Ascents
Europe
Mt Blanc, via Gouter, Tos Montets, Creste de Innominata routes 50 plus times as of 2021, 4,810m/15,771′
Eiger, Full traverse Miteleggi ridge to South ridge 3,970m/13,025′
Matterhorn, Hornligrat, Cresta del Leone and full traverse 4,478m/14,691′
Piz Badile, North Face via Cassin route 3,308m/10,850′
Cima Grande, North Face Via Comici-Dimai 2999m/9839′
Mon Viso, East Ridge 3841m/12,601′ Monte Rosa, Cresta del Italiano 4634m/ 15203′
Breithorn Half Traverse 4165m/13,665′
Weismeiss North, South and West routes 4017m/1317′
South America
Pequeño Alpamayo, Bolivia 5,370m/17,618′
Huayna Potosi, Bolivia 6,088m/19,974′
Charquini, Bolivia 5,392m/17,690′
Nev. Pisco, Peru 5,785m/18,980′ Vallunaraju, Peru 5,715m/18,750′
Ishinka Traverse Peru 5,566m/18,262′
Tocllaraju, Peru 6,087m/19,970′
Urus, Peru 5,494m/18,024′
Artesonraju, Peru 6,025m/19,767′
Yanapaqcha, Peru, 5,458 17,908′
Maparaju, SW Face, Peru 5,325 17,470′
Chopicalci, SW ridge, Peru 6,400 20,998′
Huapi, SW Face to ridge, Peru 5,419 17,780′
Pico de Orizaba, Mexico 5,644 18,517′ Cotopaxi, Ecuador 5,897m/19,347′
North America
Crescent Towers, BC Traverse W-E, Buggaboos, Canada 2,844m/9,330′
Hound’s Tooth, BC NW Face, Buggaboos, Canada 2,819m/9,250′
Castle Mt, Brewers Buttress, IV 5.6, Rockies, Canada 2,752m/9,029′
Mt Aberdeen, North Face, Rockies, Canada 3,152m/10,342′
Mt Washington, NH All Huntington Gullies, USA 1,917m/6,288′
Mt Baker, North Ridge, USA 3,286m/10,781′
Mt Forbidden, NW face to N Ridge 2,687m/8,815′
Mount Shuksan, Fischer Chimneys, SE to NE Ridge 2,782m/9,127′
Mount Stewart, West Ridge, USA 2,870m/9,415′
La Grave, La Meije, France Ski Descents:
Trifides 0, 1, 2, Freaux, Banana, Patou, Pan de Redeau (50 plus degrees), Chirouze Right, La Voute L/R, 40-45,
Couloir Davin 45-50, La Rama 35-40
Chamonix and Val d’ Aosta Ski Descents most are Guided:
Tours in Aguille Rouge all cols and couloirs to Beut up to 40 degrees
Col du Passon to Le Tour, Trient Plateau
Petit Enviers, Grand Enviers,Vrey, Rognon, La Viage, Glacier Noire, Maudit cirque All routes to Valley Blanch and then onto Mer de Glace
Cosmiques/Rhond Couloir/face 50 degrees
ENSA Couloir 45 degrees
Toule Glacier left, center, right descents with Entreves Shoulder
Marbree 45 plus
Col du Entreves 45 plus
Brenva 45 plus
Capucin Couloir 45 degree
Canale Della Passerella 50 degrees
Canale del Tedesco 45
Canale classico e Spalla
Youla Canale della Rete
Alps Ski Tours Guided:
Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, Verbier version 7 days ski touring in glaciated terrain
Berner Oberland Tour, Switzerland, 7 days ski touring in glaciated terrain
Urner Tour, Switzerland, 7 days ski touring in glaciated terrain
Ortler/Cevedale Ski Tour, Italy, 7 days ski touring in glaciated terrain
Grand Paradiso Ski Tour, Italy, 5 days on and off glaciers
Certifications
BA Wilderness Leadership, Prescott College, AZ, 1994
AMGA Rock Instructor Course, N. Conway, NH 2005
AMGA Rock Guides Course, Red Rocks, NV 2006
AMGA Alpine Guides Course, Alaska 2003
AMGA Advanced Alpine Guides Course, Canada 2005
AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Course, La Grave, France 2007
AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Red Rocks, NV 2006
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, N. Cascades, WA 2007
AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide, Chamonix, France 2008
IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Mountain Guide, Chamonix 2008
CAA Certified Level I Avalanche Training, Canada 1993
AIARE Certified Level III Avalanche Training, Utah 2007
Wilderness First Responder with 5 years Professional Ski Patrol Experience
Owner and Head Guide of Alpine Guides International
