Vern Tejas

    Vern Tejas

    Guide: International, Washington, Alaska

    Vern is known for Denali’s first solo winter ascent, the first solo of Mt. Vinson (Antarctica’s highest), first winter ascent of Mt. Logan (Canada’s highest) and as lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughan’s first ascent of Mt. Vaughan in remote Antarctica. In 2000, Vern was named one of Alaska’s top 50 Athletes of the Century by Sports Illustrated and in 2012 was inducted into the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. In addition to his fame in the extreme environments of Alaska, Greenland and Antarctica, Vernon’s success in guiding people to the summit is simply remarkable. Along with guiding numerous high altitude expeditions, Vern is a ten time summiteer of Everest and an avid adventure racer finishing 10th in 1999 and 13th in 2001 in the Eco-Challenge Race. Vern’s guided ascents are an extremely unique blend of his dynamic spirit, climbing expertise and guiding savvy, known throughout the guiding community. Recently Vern had outstanding success Mt. Vinson, Last Degree-South Pole, Denali, Elbrus (Europe’s highest) and has guided many of our Everest expeditions this century.  He has guided Vinson more than anyone. Notable among his accomplishments on the Seven Summits, Vern climbed and guided all 7 in 134 days (the current speed record), he has climbed all 7 at least 10 times. He also completed all 7 twice within one year. Vern is also the only person in the world to have completed “The Seventy Summits,” and first to guide Seven Summits and North and South Poles. With a guitar in hand and a smile on his face, Vernon treats everyone to the remarkable experience of life. [Click for Interview with Vern.]

    20-year

    Significant Ascents

    • First person to climb Seven Summits 10 times
    • Mt Everest (10 guided summit ascents)
    • Denali (60 guided, 1st solo winter ascent, 1st paraglider descent, 14:50 speed ascent)
    • Elbrus (40 guided & speed 3:20 ascent from hut), 1st paraglider descent
    • Aconcagua (28 guided & 8:02 speed ascent)
    • Carstensz Pyramid (3 Guided, via Jungle route)
    • Vinson (43 guided & personal,1st solo ascent, 10:20 speed ascent, 1st paraglide descent)
    • Kilimanjaro (19 guided & 10:45 speed ascent)
    • Greenland (world’s northernmost mountain)
    • Mt. Hunter (first winter ascent), Alaska
    • Mt. Logan (first winter ascent), Canada
    • Mt. Blanc (3 guided & personal), Rainier (2 guided), Cho-oyu (1 guided)
    • Gasherbrum II
    • Chimborazo, Matterhorn, Kinabalu, Cotopaxi
    • Peru: Urus, Ishinca, Pisco
    • Nepal: Island Peak, Mera Peak
    • Kosiousko 1st paraglider descent

    Significant Explorations

    • 1st Traverse of Wrangell-St. Elias Range
    • Ski Mt. Guide Shackleton Traverse x 2
    • First Wheeled Crossing of Antarctica
    • Ski Guide Last Degree to South Pole x 2
    • Ski Guide Last Degree to North Pole
    • Scout Overland Traverse to South Pole
    • Kayak Guide Greece, Santorini and Crete

    Awards & Recognition

    • Alaska Sports Hall of Fame
    • Life member American Alpine Club
    • Alaskan of the Year Governor’s Award
    • Sports Illustrated Top 50 Athletes Alaska
    • Eco-Challenge finisher 10th & 13th place
    • NPS Denali Pro Pin for Rescue
    • “Cover Boy” Alaska Magazine
    • 15 year member USHPA (Paragliding)
    • Producer “Strummit from Summit” CD
    • Host for Food Network’s “Tasting Alaska”
    • Talent ESPN TV special “Surviving Denali”
    • Talent for National Geographic “Ultimate Survival Alaska”

    Certifications

    • Wilderness First Responder / CPR (8 times)
    • 20 year member AK Mountain Rescue
    • Avalanche Level 2

    I will highly recommend Alpine Ascents and Vern / Paul to anyone looking for a guide! Thanks guys!

    ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

    • Top-10 Gear Misconceptions

      Misconceptions about climbing gear can leave you wandering in the woods. In this article, we’ll look at the top-10 most common gear-related misconceptions for those newer to mountaineering, and offer some quick comments in answer. This piece was originally published in 2017, but it’s proved so helpful that we pulled it from the archives and […]

    • Improving Body Composition for Mountaineering

      by Maria Faires, RD Strength-to-weight ratio is an important key performance indicator for the mountain climbing athlete. Have you ever tried to hike up a steep trail with a heavy backpack?  The more you carry, the harder the effort. Weight matters.   A mountaineer’s performance will be enhanced by being as close to their ideal body […]

    • The Backcountry Luxuries

      by Trevor Husted  How to decide if the items you can’t live without should come along your next adventure Humans naturally seem to flee from the discomforts of life, mountain guides gravitate towards that light. It is as if there is some sort of element in a mountain guide that finds something bizarrely satiating in taking […]

    Partners & Accreditations

    Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
    © Copyright 2021 All Rights Reserved. Alpine Ascents International