Vern Tejas

    Vern Tejas

    Senior Guide: International, Washington, Alaska

    Vern is known for Denali’s first solo winter ascent, the first solo of Mt. Vinson (Antarctica’s highest), first winter ascent of Mt. Logan (Canada’s highest) and as lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughan’s first ascent of Mt. Vaughan in remote Antarctica. In 2000, Vern was named one of Alaska’s top 50 Athletes of the Century by Sports Illustrated and in 2012 was inducted into the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. In addition to his fame in the extreme environments of Alaska, Greenland and Antarctica, Vernon’s success in guiding people to the summit is simply remarkable. Along with guiding numerous high altitude expeditions, Vern is a ten time summiteer of Everest and an avid adventure racer finishing 10th in 1999 and 13th in 2001 in the Eco-Challenge Race. Vern’s guided ascents are an extremely unique blend of his dynamic spirit, climbing expertise and guiding savvy, known throughout the guiding community. Recently Vern had outstanding success Mt. Vinson, Last Degree-South Pole, Denali, Elbrus (Europe’s highest) and has guided many of our Everest expeditions this century.  He has guided Vinson more than anyone. Notable among his accomplishments on the Seven Summits, Vern climbed and guided all 7 in 134 days (the current speed record), he has climbed all 7 at least 10 times. He also completed all 7 twice within one year. Vern is also the only person in the world to have completed “The Seventy Summits,” and first to guide Seven Summits and North and South Poles. With a guitar in hand and a smile on his face, Vernon treats everyone to the remarkable experience of life. [Click for Interview with Vern.]

    20-year

    Take 5 with the Guide

    Favorite childhood breakfast cereal
    Frosted Flakes……They’re Grrrreat!

    Guilty Pleasure
    90% cocoa chocolate

    Dream rope team / climbing partner for your dream climb?
    K2 solo

    If you could be stuck with anyone (past or present) at base camp for a week
    BooBoo my cat

    In another life I’d…
    Live on mars and climb Mons Olympus……perhaps this one….

    Significant Ascents

    • First person to climb Seven Summits 10 times
    • Mt Everest (10 guided summit ascents)
    • Denali (60 guided, 1st solo winter ascent, 1st paraglider descent, 14:50 speed ascent)
    • Elbrus (40 guided & speed 3:20 ascent from hut), 1st paraglider descent
    • Aconcagua (28 guided & 8:02 speed ascent)
    • Carstensz Pyramid (3 Guided, via Jungle route)
    • Vinson (43 guided & personal,1st solo ascent, 10:20 speed ascent, 1st paraglide descent)
    • Kilimanjaro (19 guided & 10:45 speed ascent)
    • Greenland (world’s northernmost mountain)
    • Mt. Hunter (first winter ascent), Alaska
    • Mt. Logan (first winter ascent), Canada
    • Mt. Blanc (3 guided & personal), Rainier (2 guided), Cho-oyu (1 guided)
    • Gasherbrum II
    • Chimborazo, Matterhorn, Kinabalu, Cotopaxi
    • Peru: Urus, Ishinca, Pisco
    • Nepal: Island Peak, Mera Peak
    • Kosiousko 1st paraglider descent

    Significant Explorations

    • 1st Traverse of Wrangell-St. Elias Range
    • Ski Mt. Guide Shackleton Traverse x 2
    • First Wheeled Crossing of Antarctica
    • Ski Guide Last Degree to South Pole x 2
    • Ski Guide Last Degree to North Pole
    • Scout Overland Traverse to South Pole
    • Kayak Guide Greece, Santorini and Crete

    Awards & Recognition

    • Alaska Sports Hall of Fame
    • Life member American Alpine Club
    • Alaskan of the Year Governor’s Award
    • Sports Illustrated Top 50 Athletes Alaska
    • Eco-Challenge finisher 10th & 13th place
    • NPS Denali Pro Pin for Rescue
    • “Cover Boy” Alaska Magazine
    • 15 year member USHPA (Paragliding)
    • Producer “Strummit from Summit” CD
    • Host for Food Network’s “Tasting Alaska”
    • Talent ESPN TV special “Surviving Denali”
    • Talent for National Geographic “Ultimate Survival Alaska”

    Certifications

    • Wilderness First Responder / CPR (8 times)
    • 20 year member AK Mountain Rescue
    • Avalanche Level 2

    Certainly an epic journey that I (and I imagine nearly every other climber) will remember the rest of their life. There is no doubt that AAI ran a well organized, ‘user friendly’ program and has established a great reputation in Antarctica as well as among climbers in general. They seem to own this trip.

    ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

    • Training for Mountaineering Webinar with Steve House

      Alpine Ascents International hosted Steve House, founder of Uphill Athlete and author of the training bible for mountaineers and trail runners, Training for the Uphill Athlete, for a free webinar on February 20th. Steve covered the training approach that he used in his own career as a professional climber which he now uses to help […]

    • Self Love and Wilderness

      Submission by Avalon Qian. “Tag responsibly, keep the West wild.” I pause mid-mindless-instagram scroll. This is not the first time I have seen this sentiment in an instagram post or an article about leaving no trace: “Tag responsibly.” “Keep the West wild.” What does this tag mean? I understand the fear that wild places may […]

    • Overboot Fitting 101

      Submission by Andy Souder in the gear department. Double boots are a great step-up from single boots for high-altitude expeditions. They aren’t sufficient for all environments though. Places like Denali and Vinson are often too cold even for double boots! You have two routes depending on your budget, goals, and fit needs:   A “triple/8000m/all-in-one” boot […]

    Partners & Accreditations

    Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
    © Copyright 2024 All Rights Reserved. Alpine Ascents International