Peter Athans

Peter Athans

Advisor

Mr. Everest is simply “one of the greatest Himalayan guides around.” Pete has summited Mount Everest seven times and has participated in 14 Everest expeditions over the course of two decades. He has an outstanding international reputation as a leader and guide. Peter’s climbing expertise may even be overshadowed by his ability to guide and successfully assist others in reaching summits. Having lived in Nepal for a number of years he is an excellent resource on Nepalese culture and is fluent in Nepali language. Accomplished photographer and cinematographer, Peter has completed a number of film projects, most recently with PBS and National Geographic Television and Film. His recent book, “Tales from the Top of the World: Climbing Mount Everest with Pete Athans” has been enthusiastically reviewed by teachers and their students around the world. Peter has been climbing for forty years and is certainly one of the world’s more experienced guides. Moreover, Peter was awarded the American Alpine Club’s David J. Sowles Award (with partner Todd Burleson) for unparalleled bravery and selflessness in a rescue situation, based upon their rescue efforts on Mt. Everest in 1996. Pete has led Alpine Ascents’ climbs to Everest, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Carstensz Pyramid and Mt. Vinson and frequently leads our climbs on Mt. Rainier.

20-year

Significant Ascents

South East Spur of Mt. Hunter, Alaska Range
Cassin Ridge of Denali, Alaska Range
West Rib of Denali, Alaska Range
Muldrow Glacier route, Denali, Alaska Range
East Ridge, Manda South Peak, Garwhal Himalaya
South Ridge, Annapurna South, Nepal Himalaya
Ama Dablam, West Ridge 4 times, Nepal Himalaya
Everest, SE ridge, 7 times, Nepal Himalaya
Nuptse, North Ridge, Nepal Himalaya
Pumori, East and North ridges, Nepal Himalaya
Cho Oyu, West Ridge and Face, Central Himalaya
Kangkuru, West Ridge, Damodar Himalaya

Certifications

Wilderness First Responder and CPR certified
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
Leave No Trace Trainer

amga-alpine

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Cascades Conditions Report 9/3/2026

    Hello climbers, It felt like the switch to fall happened in the mountains this week!  Cool temperatures and precipitation have returned to the mountains.  New snow returned to mid and upper elevations over the last couple days, and a handful of inches is expected over the next few days and leading into the weekend as […]

  • Cascades Conditions Report 8/19/2026

    Hello climbers, Conditions continue to stay phenomenal around the mountains in Washington. Smoke forecasts look really good throughout the rest of the week and into weekend. We are starting to see some mid to late August weather patterns start to creep in, with blip of cooler temperatures and light precipitation working its way into the […]

  • Cascades Conditions Report 8/13/2026

    Summer keeps on rolling and climbing in the Cascades is still going strong. Forecasts for the next week look promising. There will be a slight dip in the freezing levels over the weekend which should help keep things nice and cool higher up in the mountains. There’s also a slight change of picking up some […]

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