Peter Athans

Peter Athans

Advisor

Mr. Everest is simply “one of the greatest Himalayan guides around.” Pete has summited Mount Everest seven times and has participated in 14 Everest expeditions over the course of two decades. He has an outstanding international reputation as a leader and guide. Peter’s climbing expertise may even be overshadowed by his ability to guide and successfully assist others in reaching summits. Having lived in Nepal for a number of years he is an excellent resource on Nepalese culture and is fluent in Nepali language. Accomplished photographer and cinematographer, Peter has completed a number of film projects, most recently with PBS and National Geographic Television and Film. His recent book, “Tales from the Top of the World: Climbing Mount Everest with Pete Athans” has been enthusiastically reviewed by teachers and their students around the world. Peter has been climbing for forty years and is certainly one of the world’s more experienced guides. Moreover, Peter was awarded the American Alpine Club’s David J. Sowles Award (with partner Todd Burleson) for unparalleled bravery and selflessness in a rescue situation, based upon their rescue efforts on Mt. Everest in 1996. Pete has led Alpine Ascents’ climbs to Everest, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Carstensz Pyramid and Mt. Vinson and frequently leads our climbs on Mt. Rainier.

20-year

Significant Ascents

South East Spur of Mt. Hunter, Alaska Range
Cassin Ridge of Denali, Alaska Range
West Rib of Denali, Alaska Range
Muldrow Glacier route, Denali, Alaska Range
East Ridge, Manda South Peak, Garwhal Himalaya
South Ridge, Annapurna South, Nepal Himalaya
Ama Dablam, West Ridge 4 times, Nepal Himalaya
Everest, SE ridge, 7 times, Nepal Himalaya
Nuptse, North Ridge, Nepal Himalaya
Pumori, East and North ridges, Nepal Himalaya
Cho Oyu, West Ridge and Face, Central Himalaya
Kangkuru, West Ridge, Damodar Himalaya

Certifications

Wilderness First Responder and CPR certified
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
Leave No Trace Trainer

amga-alpine

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Cascades Conditions Report 5/13/2026

    Greetings Fellow Climbers, The Cascades climbing season is now fully underway, and overall climbing conditions across Washington remain quite good for mid-May. Over the past two weeks, our teams have been active on Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, and throughout the Cascades, with guides reporting generally favorable travel conditions, strong route coverage on the upper mountains, […]

  • Cascades Conditions report 5/6/2026

    Rainer is in Full Swing! This past week has been a gorgeous one here in the PNW with ample sunny skies across the region. Our guides have been calling in great conditions from all around the state, with lots of people climbing and skiing off the tops of the peak in the Cascades.  As a […]

  • The Cascade Climbing Season Kicks Off this week!

    Here we go! We’ve begun the summer season and our teams are already in the field. Our first Mount Rainier climb reached the summit on April 28, and our first mountaineering course on Mount Baker also successfully summited yesterday. It’s a strong start to the season. While there has been considerable discussion around a low […]

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