Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier

Climb Mount Shuksan With Alpine Ascents

It was a fabulous trip, better than expected. When we encountered a challenging circumstance, our guides improvised beautifully. Our lead guide was an encyclopedic knowledge of the area, along with tips on how to cut pack weight, preferred meals, gear tips and more. It was a privilege to absorb a little bit of his amazing experience and knowledge. This trip was everything and more that I have come to expect from Alpine Ascents. I’m proud to climb with a first-rate organization like AAI around the world, and plan to continue doing so.

Mount Shuksan (9,127’), originally named Ch’ésqen is an immense and aesthetically magnificent mountain, arguably the most iconic in the North Cascades. It stands as one of the finest mountaineering objectives in the range, requiring a variety of alpine climbing techniques to reach its airy summit. This four-day instructional course/summit climb is an excellent choice for climbers who enjoyed their 3-Day Baker or 3-Day Muir climb and are interested in tackling more a technically challenging objective. Basic snow and glacier climbing skills lead the climber across the mighty Sulphide Glacier until the exciting rock summit pyramid. Depending on the time of year, the route to the summit  is usually a fun mix of snow climbing, easy rock scrambling, and plentiful ledges. The truly memorable summit rewards climbers with stunning views of Mt. Baker and the surrounding peaks of the North Cascades.

With a 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio, we offer a personal experience and hands-on training with an experienced guide team. This climb will teach climbers some the basics of glacier mountaineering, including self-arrest training, cramponing, and roped team travel.   Additionally, as the final climb to Mount Shuksan’s spectacular summit is on rock, we will spend a whole day at beautiful Mount Erie learning belaying, rappelling, knots, rope management and rock climbing movement prior to heading to the mountain. Successful completion of this program gives you the required skills for some of our more advanced expeditions.

Maximum team size: Eight climbers with four guides.

EQUIPMENT & MEALS

Provided: All group climbing equipment, including climbing ropes, technical hardware, and tents;  breakfasts and dinners on the mountain.

Not provided: Transportation, personal equipment, and lunches. You are responsible for all items on the Gear List.

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to online vendors with reviews.

Classic Cascade Climbs
Tom Sjolseth, Jim Nelson, and David Whitelaw
Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills
Don Graydon (Ed.), Kurt Hanson (Ed.), Mountaineers Society, Mountaineers Books
Glacier Climbing & Crevasse Rescue
Ian Nicholson, Mountaineers Books

Our Mt. Shuksan climb was fantastic. The views were incredible, the weather was perfect, and our guides were professional, personable, and highly skilled. They did a great job passing on their knowledge. During snow school on day two I learned several new cramponing techniques and approaches to self arrest, which had never been covered with […]

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Cascades Classics Beyond Rainier & Baker

    Climbed Rainier and Baker and wondering what’s next? In this webinar recording, Alpine Ascents Senior Guide Lyra Pierotti explores three classic “next step” Cascades objectives: Mount Shuksan (Sulphide Glacier), Glacier Peak, and Mount Olympus. From remote rainforest approaches and long wilderness journeys to glaciated travel and alpine scrambling, each climb offers a completely different adventure. […]

  • Fueling The Climb: Nutrition for Mountaineering

    In this webinar recording, Alpine Ascents International welcomes registered dietitian Alyssa Leib of Uphill Athlete for a practical, science-backed deep dive into nutrition for mountaineering performance. Alyssa breaks down how to properly fuel for training, long days in the mountains, and demanding expeditions—plus shares actionable strategies you can immediately apply to improve energy, recovery, and […]

  • Training for Mount Rainier (and Beyond): How to Train Smarter for the Mountains

    What does it really take to feel strong, steady, and capable in the mountains? In this recorded webinar, Alpine Ascents guide Dom DeMatteo breaks down a practical, individualized approach to training for Mount Rainier and other mountaineering objectives—without disappearing down a rabbit hole of exercise physiology. Instead, Dom focuses on the real demands of climbing […]

Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
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