Cho Oyu

Climb Cho Oyu, the 6th Highest Mountain on Earth With Alpine Ascents

I had an excellent time during the entire expedition. From the moment I met Jiban and our guides at the Yak & Yeti, and our Sherpas later on, I felt we had the best people for this adventure. Obviously, our guides  had a thorough understanding and experience working together. They were a very effective and complementary team. Sherpas were amazing– great attitude, smiles, enthusiasm, very hard working yet fun crew, no matter the load or the circumstances. Overall outstanding performance and organization by AAI throughout! See you on Everest in spring.

Climbing Cho Oyu is an achievable undertaking for intermediate climbers who wish to attempt an 8,000 m peak. The expedition provides a perfect entrance into the world of high-altitude Himalayan climbing. The sixth highest mountain in the world, Cho Oyu lies in the heart of the Tibetan/Nepalese Himalayas and offers climbers views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and figuratively hundreds of other Himalayan peaks.

This is a fully guided ascent, led by Senior guide Ben Jones. Ben is one of the premier high altitude guides in the world, with over 20 years of experience leading expeditions. Ben’s guiding resume includes 10 expeditions to Everest, 4 expeditions to Cho Oyu, and ascents of other 8000m peaks. In addition to his accomplishments in the Himalayas, Ben is also an expedition leader on the seven summits, and has first ascents in remote areas around the world. We are one of the few outfitters offering this type of support (and, as a result, we have a high success rate and an outstanding safety record). It should be noted that most outfitters merely offer a supported trek, where a single guide facilitates the climb but does not act as a guide during the ascent.

ABOUT THE CLIMB

While the challenge of high-altitude climbing cannot be underestimated, the technical nature of the ascent is moderate. Our route is composed of snow slopes with short sections of ice and rock scrambling. We use some fixed ropes for speed and risk mitigation. We climb Cho Oyu in classic Himalayan expedition style, employing Sherpa who assist with load carrying and camp preparation. The assistance of expert Sherpa, many of whom have guided with us on Mt. Everest, greatly increases our chances of success. Supplemental oxygen is used for the summit attempt and while sleeping at High Camp. Our itinerary has extra days built in for inclement weather and slow acclimatization. The relatively short time needed to complete the climb adds to the attraction of this tremendous ascent.

cho oyu

Alpine Ascents Success on Himalayan Peaks

Fantastic experience from beginning to end, I would recommend the company and the trip to anyone -2023 Climber

Our reputation for leading climbs in the Himalayas is superb and includes summits of Everest (271 summits to date) and Cho Oyu (83 summits to date). In 2023, we had 100% summit success. We encourage you to review our Cybercasts from previous expeditions.

As on Everest we offer one style of trip— a fully guided expedition with a low climber-to-guide ratio. This style has led to our historically high summit success rate, an excellent safety record, and extremely satisfied climbers.

Our Cho Oyu Route

cho-oyu-route
Once at Base Camp, we will meet our Tibetan yak drivers and their animals. Yaks carry our loads to Advanced Base Camp (18,500 ft.) at the foot of the famous Nangpa-La Pass.

We will spend the next three to four days establishing Advanced Base Camp and making short acclimatization forays to the lower reaches of the West Ridge. With the assistance of our Sherpa team, we place Camp I (21,000 ft.) atop the West Ridge. Over the next ten days we will establish Camp II (23,100 ft.) and Camp III (24,500 ft.). We repeatedly move up and down the mountain to enhance strong acclimatization and overall fitness. Once our last camp is set and the team has rested for a few days at Advanced Base Camp, we begin the summit climb. Prior to our summit attempt, team members will spend the night at Camp III sleeping on supplemental oxygen, strengthening and abetting the body’s circulation systems.

Our summit attempt begins between midnight and 1:00 a.m. We will climb with supplemental oxygen on summit day. From High Camp, we ascend the West Face through a rock band and up snow slopes of 25 to 40 degrees to reach the West Ridge proper. This gentle ridge leads to the large summit plateau at approximately 26,000 ft. From here we spend the next hour traveling across this plateau to reach the true summit and a spectacular 360-degree view, which includes Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and an array of Himalayan peaks. To the north lies the Tibetan plateau (the highest in the world) and to the south stand hundreds of Nepalese peaks.

After reaching the summit, our team descends to Camp II. It takes approximately five days to clear the mountain and move equipment back to Base Camp. Once we have arrived at Base Camp and said farewell to our Tibetan yak drivers, we begin our return to Kathmandu.

Alpine Ascents Cho-Oyu Maps & Facts

cho-map-nepal

Map of Nepal with Cho Oyu and Everest highlighted

  • Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world and translates as “the goddess of the turquoise.”
  • Himalaya translates as “abode of the snows.”
  • The First Ascent was in 1954 by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Joechler, Pasang Dawa Lama (the Austrian expedition).

Nangpa-La Pass

The Nangpa-La Pass is the gap in the Himalayas through which the first traders from Tibet traveled to initiate contact with Nepal. Salt was traded for grain in the Namche Bazaar. This trading continues today and we will likely see yak caravans carrying goods across the glacier for trade in Nepal during this expedition.

Tibetan Plateau

The Tibetan Plateau, often called the “roof of the world,” dates back 13.5 million years and has reached a maximum average height of 5 kilometers. It is the highest plateau on earth and affects weather patterns around the world. In fact, the monsoons of India and Asia are caused by the plateau. The Tibetan Plateau, which includes the Himalayan mountains, is the result of the collision between the two tectonic plates of India and Asia. The area can be described as a sort of “top-hat” shape, with India and Central Asia as the brim of the hat, and the high ground of the Tibetan Plateau as the flat top of the hat.

History of The Route

H. Tichy first scaled Cho-Oyu in 1954. Much of the credit for his success can go to early reconnaissance expeditions, including Eric Shipton’s 1952 journey. Many of the climbers of Shipton’s team became members of Hillary and Norgay’s expedition, which first climbed Mt. Everest. We will follow the Tichy route on this expedition.

Prior Years

We have been operating Everest expeditions since 1992. We have been operating Cho Oyu expeditions since 1995.

2013 proved to be a great season for us with 100% success of climbers who reached Everest High Camp making the summit, and over 80% of the climbers who joined our Everest climb reaching the summit. We were also thrilled to have two guides, three climbers, and two Sherpa reach the summit of Lhotse (both peaks reached within a 24-hour period). These percentages are very high when compared to other outfitters and we certainly encourage you to compare these statistics (using the same reference points) to other outfitters. Overall totals include 39 climbers on two Everest teams (13 Climbers, 6 Guides, 20 Sherpa).

2012 was another banner year for Alpine Ascents. Though a difficult season with tough summit conditions, Alpine Ascents was one of the few groups to have large-scale summit success. We attribute much of the success to our experience, which enabled us to choose a difficult but uncrowded Everest summit day and utilize the expertise of our guides and Sherpa. By the numbers, Everest 2012 saw 14 climbers reaching the summit.

2011: Alpine Ascents is proud to have 100% success for all those who joined our Everest expedition, with a number of climbers reaching Lhotse shortly thereafter. This was the first time climbers reached the summit of two 8,000 m peaks in 24 hours.

Everest 2010 had 100% success for those who reached High Camp with similar success to years past. We are happy to provide details of 20+ years of expeditions.

cho oyu

Recent 8000m Peak Experience

2023 met with 100% summit success on both Everest and Manaslu!

2022 Teams summit Everest, Lhotse, and Manaslu.

2021 Everest Team spent 4 days at high camp and returned to base camp after weather did not improve.

2020 No international trips to Nepal in 2020.

2019 Our team had over 90% success rate and all team members who started with us, completed the expedition on Everest!

2018 100% summit success (19 team members) and an Everest/Lhotse traverse.

2017 saw 11 climbers reach the summit of Everest! See our Cybercast for details.

2016 met with 100% summit success on Everest and Cho Oyu! See our Cybercast for details.

The 2014 and 2015 seasons were cancelled due to the natural disasters. We have been working directly with the local community and other organizations in the aftermath to help ensure that we meet the needs of all climbers and guides. For those that wish to learn more about our efforts and the Alpine Ascents Foundation, read more.

Alpine Ascents in 2024

As in the past, Alpine Ascents will offer a fully supported expedition. We do not offer Sherpa-only guided, hybrid, guide-at-base-camp-in-radio-contact, or inappropriate climber-to-guide ratio as this is simply not our style. We feel this limited support approach strays from the goals of providing the best and most risk aware chance of climbers reaching the summit.

Our 2024 team will be led by Alpine Ascents Senior Guide Ben Jones. As always, we will employ our famed Sherpa staff. Our Sherpa team is legendary throughout the climbing community and will be the mainstay of our summit support team. We look to bestow our traditions and expertise on every climber.

A Brief Overview of Sherpa Life

Often inseparable from mountaineering, the Sherpas of Nepal inhabit much of the lower portion of the Himalayas known as the Solu-Khumbu or Khumbu. While their reputation as climbers is nothing short of historic, local Buddhist, animist, and cultural traditions have equally nurtured and impacted a fascinating relationship with Westerners and Western thought.

Sherpas became prominent to the West when British mountaineers began to set their sights on conquering Himalayan peaks. With the first Mt. Everest expedition in 1921, the skill, expertise, honesty, and dedication of Sherpas as guides and partners became an integral part of Himalayan climbing. The affinity of outsiders for Sherpa/Buddhist civilization has blossomed into an ever-increasing sharing, understanding, and friendship between cultures.

Prior to British expeditions, Sherpas revered the great mountains of the region as dwelling places of gods and goddesses, to which the thought of climbing was considered blasphemous. (“Chomolungma,” the Tibetan name for Everest, is the residence of Miyo Lungsungama, the goddess of humanity and prosperity.) Sherpas traditionally worked as traders, farmers, and religious folk. Along with these ancestral roles, leading climbs and treks has recently become a mainstay of the Sherpa economy.

“Sherpa” refers both to a tribal group and a job capacity as porter, climber, or trek leader. The term “Sherpa” means Easterner, referring to their origins in Eastern Tibet. The migrations of this Tibetan culture began sometime in the early 1400’s. Today, the Sherpa population in the Khumbu is about 5,000, with a total of roughly 35,000 living in Nepal.

SHERPAS ON EVEREST

The first notable and successful Everest climbing Sherpa was Tenzing Norgay. In 1952, Norgay accompanied Raymond Lambert to within 800 vertical feet of the still-unclimbed Mt. Everest. A year later, Norgay was asked to join the British team led by Col. John Hunt, which successfully summited Everest following the same route as Norgay and Lambert. Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary were the first climbers to reach the summit. By the mid 1980’s, Sherpas had summited Everest many more times than Westerners. Ang Rita Sherpa, the most well-known climbing Sherpa, had amassed seven summits of Everest by 1995. In 1993, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa became the first Sherpa woman to summit Everest.

THE NAME KHUMBU

The name Khumbu comes from its guardian deity Khumbila Tetsan Gelbu. The literal translation is “Khumbu country god.” The teachings of Sherpa Buddhism talk of a spiritual understanding between all beings. This is probably why the level of hospitality and acceptance of Westerners comes naturally to the Sherpa. It should, however be mentioned, that Tibetans are also considered fierce warriors.

—Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Director

Cho Oyu Frequently Asked Questions

What is the skill level of this climb?

Climbers should have successfully completed our 6 Day Beginner Mountaineering Course and an expedition such as a Denali Climb, or have equivalent skills and experience. Cho Oyu is excellent preparation for a summit attempt of Mt. Everest and is the logical choice for those who wish to embrace and climb an 8,000-meter Himalayan peak. This expedition teaches valuable climbing skills, high-altitude management techniques, and lessons for the use of oxygen systems and staying healthy at extreme altitudes. Climbers who have been successful on Denali or comparable peaks are typically prepared to join a guided ascent on Cho Oyu. Climbers must have solid cramponing skills, be able to rappel with a pack on, and use ascenders on a fixed line. We place a high degree of responsibility on our climbers to prepare for the challenges of the ascent and the wellbeing of their fellow team members. We encourage you to contact us with questions, and please feel free to speak with former expedition members.

What is the physical conditioning level needed for this climb?

Climbers must be in excellent physical condition. This is a long expedition requiring patience, stamina, mental fortitude, and strong willpower. Summit day can be 12 hours long.

Any tips on how climbers can maximize their chances of success?

Along with the required climbing skills, review cardio training on the Training page of our website. We strongly recommend following the advice of our guides to acclimatize properly.

Who is the guiding team composed of (How many guides? Climber-to-guide ratio?)

Your expedition leader will be one of our International Mountain Guides. They will have along as many assistant guides, climbing Sherpa, porters, and cooks as necessary to ensure a low climber-to-guide ratio.

What is the best season to climb / which dates will have the most chance for success?

The best time to climb Cho Oyu is in the Fall, August-October.

How many climbers are on this expedition?

Generally, our maximum for this climb is 10 climbers plus guides and Sherpa.

Will I be sharing a tent or lodging with other climbers?

During the approach to Base Camp we will be lodging in hotels and hostels that are double occupancy. Climbers will share a room (two per room) during this portion of the trip in Tibet. In Base Camp, each climber will have their own tent. Above Base Camp, in Camps I-III, climbers will share tents.

How much will my pack weigh?

During the trek, team members will only carry gear and supplies for the day. At no point do climbers carry camping gear or equipment for overnight during the trek. Daypacks will weigh no more than 20 lbs. Above Base Camp on the climb, we will typically carry packs that weigh 20–30 lbs. At no point will your pack weigh more than 50 lbs.

What gear will I need?

Please review the Gear List.

How does your gear rental system work?

Those requesting rental gear must submit an expedition rental form with payment by fax or mail. All rental gear will be mailed to the climber prior to the climb. Climbers are expected to clean all rental gear and return it to us by mail following the expedition.

Any further advice on gear and using your gear list?

While all items are required, there may be times when some of the items on the Gear List may not be used (such as warm weather or changing conditions). The Gear Lists are created by the guides to assist in having climbers be prepared to summit in any conditions.

While it is impossible for us to list all brands for certain gear, we do offer a wide variety of equipment in our Gear Shop, that has been hand-picked by our staff of mountaineering experts. Please feel free to call our offices with any gear questions or substitutes. Plastic boots are required for this climb.

How is drinking water treated?

During the approach to Base Camp, we will eat in restaurants where clean water will be provided. Climbers can also purchase bottled water along the way. At Base Camp and on the route, we will boil water.

What will the meals on the expedition be like?

Meals in the mountains consist of a diet rich in carbohydrates because our bodies do not process fat and protein efficiently at higher elevations and to compensate for the increase in caloric need that high-altitude climbing involves. We try to make meals varied and as normal as possible. During the approach to Base Camp, we will dine in Tibetan restaurants serving a mix of Chinese/Tibetan/Continental dishes. Meals during the climb are made from food purchased in both Nepal and the US. Typical meals are rice, pasta, or potato dishes, along with vegetable and egg dishes. In Base Camp we will have cooked lunches. Above Base Camp, climbing food mainly consists of dried meals such as pastas or rice. Lunches while climbing will mainly be made up of bars and snacks brought from the US.

Can I bring some food from home?

You may bring power bars, Gu, Power Gel, cereal bars, or similar high-energy foods; we also recommend powder Gatorade to fight dehydration. Alpine Ascents will provide all meals on this expedition.

Are there any innoculation requirements?

No requirements at this time.

When should I book my flight? Do I need to use your Travel Agent?

Fares are generally less expensive when booked early. If you would like the assistance of a travel agency, we can recommend our friends at Exito Travel. We recommend using our travel agent as they can best facilitate changes. Please note that flights booked online are often difficult to change. Please send us a copy of your flight schedule as early as possible as this allows us to book pick ups and hotels.

What time should I arrive and leave and where do I meet the guides?

An Alpine Ascents representative will meet those climbers (look for the sign) arriving on the scheduled date (or a different date for those who have made prior arrangements) and taken to the Yak and Yeti Hotel. Although it is likely that you will meet your team leader at the airport and other members during the day, we will have a scheduled meeting that day. This meeting will include introductions, final review, and an overview of the itinerary and trek.

What if I arrive early or depart late? Can you arrange extra night lodging? Is there a single room option for this expedition?

We are happy to make arrangements such as personalized tours, extra hotel rooms, airport pick-ups, and arrange for private rooms. Please indicate that you would like a private room on your application and we will contact you with information on single-room supplement costs (for hotels only).

Are there any entry or Visa requirements?

We will send further instructions on obtaining a Chinese visa.

Is there any communication while we are on the mountain?

In Kathmandu internet access are readily available. We will organize wi fi system at base camp. Details will be provided prior to the climb.

Where can I get more information on history, books, and additional activities in the region?

Check the Reading List on the Cho Oyu page of the website.

Can I contact the others on the climb? How about the guide?

You can always call our offices and we will have one of your Everest guides contact you. Within 30 days prior to departure, we will mail a list of the other team members to you.

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.

High Himalaya
by Art Wolfe, Peter Potterfield, Norbu Tenzing Norgay, Mountaineers Books
Everest; The Mountaineers Anthology Series
Foreward by Tom Hornbein, Peter Potterfield editor, Mountaineers Books
Everest
by Walt Unsworth, Mountaineers Books
Classic Hikes of the World
Peter Potterfield, W.W. Norton pub.
Fragile Edge : Loss on Everest
by Maria Coffey, Harbour Pub Co.
Coronation Everest
by Jan Morris, Burford Books
Everest : The West Ridge
by Thomas F. Hornbein, Mountaineers Books
Eric Shipton: Everest & Beyond
by Edmund Hillary, Peter M.D. Steele, Mountaineers Books
The Snow Leopard (Penguin Nature Classics)
by Peter Matthiessen, Penguin USA (paper)
Trekking in Nepal : A Traveler's Guide
by Stephen Bezruchka, Mountaineers Books

It was a perfect ’10’

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