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Mera Peak, Nepal

Mera Peak

Our Spring 2017 Mera Peak Team achieved 75% summit success!

Join guiding legend Vern Tejas on this classic ascent of Nepal’s Mera Peak. Mera has always been tough logistically, but Alpine Ascents utilizes helicopters (included) for the return journey, which helps shorten this trip by up to five days. This is an outstanding climb for the advanced beginner (graduates of our 6 Day Basic Mountaineering Course or those who’ve have strong performances on Rainier) and a chance to climb above 21,000 ft. This superb ascent takes us right through the Khumbu region (famed Everest region of Nepal) with some wonderful views of the major peaks in the area, including Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam.

Amazing trek. Technical rope course and use of ascenders and repelling was really integral to climb so once we were on the Mountain it seemed like review. Safety was foremost, from personal care hydration, eating, acclimatization to carefully finding the best weather window to summit. – Spring 2017 Climber

Vern and Carol were exceptional guides. Vern Tejas’ decades of experience provided valuable insights and best practices for acclimatization, climbing skills, and self-care. Practice sessions using ascenders and goat-tail device for rappelling with gloves and mitts helped build confidence in critical skills necessary for the climb. – Spring 2017 Climber

Group was good. Guides were excellent. High camp was set up excellently as well. Accommodations as good as can be noting the area. Appreciated the “extra’s” like salami and oysters! Strengths: Support/logistics both in and out of country. Attention to safety/health by guides/staff was outstanding. Training on trip good for me. – 2017 Climber

Following a much less frequented trail than the Everest Base Camp route, we cross a spectacular pass into the almost uninhabited Hinku Valley and then trek northward to approach Mera Peak, the highest trekking peak in Nepal at 21,247 ft. Whether you want to attempt the summit or just go along for the trek, you will feel as though you have taken part in a real Himalayan expedition. Mera is one of the few Himalayan climbs that can be done in three weeks. Those who opt for the trek only can reach up to 18,000 ft. Please note that the lodges are basic and do not have the level of accommodations found in more populated parts of the Khumbu. We will lodge in simple tea houses and tents. Alpine Ascents will also bring supplementary food for the trek and High Camp.

Our Climb & Trekking Route

The trek to Mera Peak also walks us through the countryside where we will be immersed in centuries-old Nepalese and Tibetan cultures. This part of the journey is filled with Buddhist shrines and offers some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. Unlike some routes, our route to Mera Base Camp offers views of the Himalayas each day of the trek as we wind our way upward through the valleys toward Mera Peak.

Lodging & The Khumbu Region

We lodge in Sherpa village tea houses, many of them remote, giving us a rare look into both traditional and monastic communities. While the environs are often primitive by Western standards, they are balanced by the warmth and tremendous support of the Sherpa people. We will stay in villages up to Khare, and then we will camp in tents at Mera Peak and on the mountain.

We work hard to have diverse menus, but meals on this trek can be limited by availability and the remoteness of the region.

Mera Peak Frequently Asked Questions

Upon sign-up, we will forward our famed, comprehensive confirmation package. This package will include all of the details for your trip.

What is the skill level of this climb?

Climbers should have successfully completed our 6 Day Basic Mountaineering Course, or have performed well on a 3 day climb of Mt. Rainier or Mt. Baker, or have equivalent skills and experience. Climbers must be mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. The requirements are also based on our desire to have similarly skilled team members.

What is the physical conditioning level needed for this climb?

Climbers must be in excellent physical condition. Summit day can be 10-14 hours long.

Any tips on how climbers can maximize their chances of success?

Along with the required climbing skills, review cardio training on the Training page for this climb. We strongly recommend following the advice of our guides to acclimatize properly.

Who is the guiding team composed of (How many guides? Climber-to-guide ratio?)

Your expedition leader will be one of our international mountain guides. They will have along as many assistant guides as necessary to ensure a low climber-to-guide ratio. See more on Guides here.

What is the best season to climb / which dates will have the most chance for success?

The best months to climb Mera Peak are in April and October.

How many climbers are on this expedition?

Generally, our maximum for this climb is 15 climbers plus guides and Sherpa.

Will I be sharing a tent or lodging with other climbers?

During the trek, we will be lodging in teahouses (very simple lodging). During the climb, we will be in a fully stocked camp tent at Mera Peak Base Camp. Team members will either share a teahouse room (two per room) or a tent (two per tent) while at Base Camp.

How much will my pack weigh?

During the trek and climb, team members will only carry gear and supplies for the day. At no point do we carry camping gear or equipment for overnight. During the trek, daypacks will weigh no more than 20 lbs., and during the climb, the packs will weigh no more than 30 lbs.

What gear will I need?

Please review the Gear List.

How does your gear rental system work?

Those requesting rental gear must submit an online expedition rental form with payment. All rental gear will be mailed to the climber prior to the climb. Climbers are expected to clean all rental gear and return it to us by mail following the expedition.

Any further advice on gear and using your gear list?

While all items are required, there may be times when climbers do not use some of the items on the Gear List (such as warm weather or changing conditions). The Gear Lists are created by the guides to assist in having climbers be prepared to summit in any conditions.

While it is impossible for us to list all brands for certain gear, we do offer a wide variety of equipment in our Gear Shop that has been hand picked by our staff of mountaineering experts. Please feel free to call our offices with any gear questions or substitutes. Plastic boots are required for this climb.

How is drinking water treated?

During the trek, we will provide unlimited amounts of water at mealtimes. Team members can fill up water bottles at meals and use their SteriPen to sterilize. Bottled water can also be purchased in teahouses at additional cost, but this can be expensive and creates waste. Once in Base Camp, we will boil water.

What will the meals on the expedition be like?

Meals in the mountains consist of a diet rich in carbohydrates because our bodies do not process fat and protein efficiently at higher elevations and to compensate the increase in caloric need that high-altitude climbing involves. We try to make meals and breakfast varied and as normal as possible. During the trek, Alpine Ascents staff will prepare meals in the teahouses. Meals during the trek and climb are made from food purchased both in Nepal and the US. Typical meals are rice, pasta, or potato dishes along with vegetable and egg dishes. Lunches will also consist of cooked meals. Above Base Camp, climbing food mainly consists of dried meals such as pastas or rice. Lunches while climbing will mainly be made up of bars and snacks brought from the US.

Sample menu here.

Can I bring some food from home?

You may bring power bars, Gu, Power Gel, cereal bars, or similar high-energy foods; we also recommend powder Gatorade to fight dehydration. All meals are provided on this expedition.

Are there any innoculation requirements?

No requirements at this time.

What is the best air route to my destination?

Most routes from the US to Kathmandu are via Asia,  but there are many options via Europe as well.

When should I book my flight? Do I need to use your Travel Agent?

Fares are generally less expensive when booked early. You may use our travel agent (Charles Mulvehill 1-800-727-2157) or book flights yourself. Please note that flights booked online are often difficult to change. Please send us a copy of your flight schedule as early as possible as this allows us to book pick ups and hotels.

What time should I arrive and leave and where do I meet the guides?

We will pick up all climbers and trekkers at the airport. Guides will often meet you upon arrival at the hotel or at our first planned meeting.

What if I arrive early or depart late? Can you arrange extra night lodging? Is there a single-room option for this expedition?

We are happy to make arrangements such as personalized tours, extra hotel rooms, airport pick-ups, and arrange for private rooms. Please indicate that you would like a private room on your application and we will contact you with information on single-room supplement costs (for hotels only).

Are there any entry or Visa requirements?

The easiest way to obtain a visa is in the Kathmandu airport. Upon arrival in the KTM airport, fill out the necessary forms and proceed to the visa line. As visa prices change often, we suggest taking a variety of cash denominations, such as (2) $20.00 bills (1) $10.00 bill (1) $5.00 bill. We will obtain a trekking permit for you in KTM.

  • Current visa cost is $30.00 and is subject to change.
  • Please obtain a one-month visa.

Please bring two passport photos (one for the visa and one extra).

Is there any communication while we are on the mountain?

Cell phones work in many parts of the Khumbu as well as in Kathmandu. We can assist you in getting a local sim card but you must “unlock” your phone beforehand. We can assist in getting a phone unlocked in KTM, but it can cost up to $50 and take 48 hours (usually less).

Where can I get more information on history, books, and additional activities in the region?

Check the Reading List on the Island Peak page of our website.

Can I contact the others on the climb? How about the guide?

You can always call our offices and we will have your Mera Peak lead guide contact you. Within 30 days prior to departure, we will mail a list of the other team members to you.

How much should I budget for this expedition? How much cash should I plan to bring?

At least $500 should easily cover any extra expenses and tips. Most climbers prefer to bring about $1,000 and have credit cards.

How much should I tip my guide and staff?

We suggest $200 total for tipping all Sherpa guides and 7-12% for Western guides. You may have some perfunctory tips at hotels and at time of transport. Tipping is not required but a common practice.

How do I register for this expedition?

Book a Trip at: www.alpineascents.com/registration or call our office with a credit card handy.

What paperwork do I need to send in?

Each climber should submit an application and flight information.

When is the money due for this expedition? What kind of payment do you accept?

We accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express, personal checks, and Alpine Ascents gift certificates. To reserve a space, the deposit is $700 and balances are due 120 days prior to departure. Unpaid balances can result in forfeiture of trip.

What is your cancellation policy? What is your refund policy?
What happens if I need to leave the expedition early?

Communication is sometimes difficult in the mountains. However, our guides and local staff will make every efforts to obtain the necessary transportation and reservations to get you home as quickly as possible if for any reason you need to depart early.

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.

High Himalaya
by Art Wolfe, Peter Potterfield, Norbu Tenzing Norgay, Mountaineers Books
Everest; The Mountaineers Anthology Series
Foreward by Tom Hornbein, Peter Potterfield editor, Mountaineers Books
Everest
by Walt Unsworth, Mountaineers Books
Classic Hikes of the World
Peter Potterfield, W.W. Norton pub.
Fragile Edge : Loss on Everest
by Maria Coffey, Harbour Pub Co.
Coronation Everest
by Jan Morris, Burford Books
Everest : The West Ridge
by Thomas F. Hornbein, Mountaineers Books
Eric Shipton: Everest & Beyond
by Edmund Hillary, Peter M.D. Steele, Mountaineers Books
The Snow Leopard (Penguin Nature Classics)
by Peter Matthiessen, Penguin USA (paper)
Trekking in Nepal : A Traveler's Guide
by Stephen Bezruchka, Mountaineers Books

This is a great expedition and I look forward coming back again. Vern and Carole are awesome – very skilled and work well with the team both clients and local staff. They did a great job of sharing their skills, abilities, the culture and their experiences. I would sign up for another trip with them in a […]

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