Great Peaks of Bolivia

Climb Great Peaks of Bolivia With Alpine Ascents

A proper superlative is hard to find as all fail to do justice to the experience. The experience was all I could have asked for. First and foremost the climbing was interesting and challenging, and summiting Pequeño Alpamayo and Chachacomani gave me a great sense of accomplishment. The cultural experience was also enriching and enhanced greatly by Rachael’s knowledge and experience. In short the climbing was great, the guides were fantastic, logistics were handled smoothly and efficiently, and my climbing team was a joy.
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Our new itinerary launched in 2018 has been a huge success in 2018 -2025 we are looking forward to 2026 departures with Bolivia expert Rachel Molstad as lead guide.

Bolivia’s Cordillera Real (Royal Range) contains seven peaks above 6,000 meters and over 600 peaks above 5,000 meters, all packed within a range that stretches a mere 78 miles/125 km in length. Despite the immensity of climbing possibilities, Bolivia’s premier mountain range remains one of South America’s best kept climbing secrets. This is a new itinerary designed by our Bolivian climbing expert Rachel Molstad.

An expedition to Bolivia provides the opportunity for climbers to make the transition to high altitude climbing in a spectacular and exotic range that offers fine routes at an intermediate grade. In addition to easy accessibility to big peaks, Bolivia also boasts some of the most stable mountain weather in the world. As the tourism infrastructure in Bolivia is behind that of other neighboring Andean countries, travel here is well-suited to the adventurous; the intrepid traveler to Bolivia will find endlessly fascinating cultural depth, authenticity, and natural beauty.

This was the best run climbing program I have participated in. Every aspect, the food, accommodations, transportation, guiding, etc. were all well organized and executed.

The goal of this expedition is the ascent of two peaks in the Cordillera Real chosen for their beauty, accessibility, quality of climbing, and usefulness as a training ground for future high altitude expeditions:  Pequeño Alpamayo (17,618 ft./5370 m) and Chachacomani (19,928 ft./6074 m).

We’ll begin our expedition in La Paz, the world’s highest capital city, which sits at 11,975 ft./3650 m in a spectacular setting. As we acclimatize, we’ll ride the world’s highest and longest cable car network across the city with views of the Andes and the rugged city hillsides. On our way to Lake Titicaca the next day, we’ll explore Tiwanaku, a UNESCO world heritage site, and Bolivia’s most important archeological site. Finally we reach beautiful Lake Titicaca, one of the highest navigable lakes in the world and the second-largest lake in South America. We spend the night at the bright town of Copacabana and visit the Island of the Sun (Isla del Sol) the next day. We’ll continue our acclimatization by hiking from the northern to the southern end of the picturesque island, spending the night in bungalows at a locally run ecolodge.

Upon leaving Lake Titicaca, we begin our expedition to three beautiful mountains. These moderately difficult ascents constitute an ideal trip for mountaineering school graduates, beginners at high altitude, and experienced climbers alike. We will warm up on the pyramidal Pico Austria (17,454 ft./5320 m), which offers us a marvelous view of the Condoriri Group.

After having completed a basic skills review and practiced some ice climbing, we proceed to the impressive and beautiful Pequeño Alpamayo (17,618 ft./5,370 m). The steep fluted faces and knife-edge ridges of this pyramid-shaped peak allow us to enjoy unique and spectacular climbing.

Our final objective is Chachacomani (19,928 ft./6074 m), a 6000 meter plus unspoiled peak only recently opened to tourism by the local community. Chachacomani sits in the heart of the Cordillera Real and is notable from afar for its immense expanse of glacier. Our final steeper ascent will place us high in the middle of the Cordillera Real with views over the barren altiplano and Lake Titicaca on one side to the sub-tropics and the Amazon basin on the other.

Along with the expected skills reviews on glacier travel, rope teams, etc, Rachel also had volumes of information to pass along to us about Bolivian culture and history (recent and ancient). She is a fantastic teacher, fueled by her passion for the mountains and for her home in Boliva. I can’t imagine a better person to lead this trip.

The Aymara People and the Altiplano

Bolivia is a land of geographical extremes and superlatives made all the more fascinating by the rich authentic cultural background found in daily life. A nation landlocked in the heart of South America, over sixty percent of Bolivia’s population is of indigenous descent, more than in any other country in South America. The altiplano, or high altitude plateau, we will explore during our expedition, is the land of the Aymara people. The Aymara trace their culture, language, and descendancy from the advanced pre-Incan Tiwanaku civilization. Today, the Aymara in the countryside raise alpaca and llama while living off potatoes, barley, and quinoa, which are grown in the altiplano.

Illimani Extension

Already acclimatized from Chachacomani, those interested in looking for further challenge can remain in this stunning region to attempt Illimani, the 21,125 ft./6,439 m giant overlooking La Paz’s southeastern skyline. Illimani is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Real and the second highest peak in Bolivia. Our climb will consist of two camps, climbing the West Ridge of Pico Sur, the highest peak of the massif. It is a challenging, steep climb that includes a heavily crevassed glacier. The ascent itself is spectacular, as the entire massif spans more than 5 miles/8 km and contains five summits, three of them over 20,000 ft./6100 m! This wonderful climb will give you the chance to stand over 21,000 feet, absorbing the grandeur that is Bolivia. As this program itinerary is designed with a purposeful progression in skills learning and challenge, the climb of Illimani is more demanding than the prior climbs.

See our day-to-day itinerary.

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.

Bolivia : A Climbers Guide
by Yossi Brain, Mountaineers Books
The Ancient Kingdoms of Peru
by Nigel Davies, Penguin USA (paper)

Watch our in depth discussion of our Bolivia Expedition with Bolivia guide, Rachel Molstad

A country of beautiful extremes, Bolivia is the highest, most isolated country in South America and holds a veritable treasure trove of climbing objectives for alpinists who venture off the beaten path. Particularly for climbers seeking to gain experience at altitude to prepare for objectives like Denali, Bolivia should not be overlooked. Despite the abundant climbing possibilities, Bolivia’s Cordillera Real (Royal Range) remains one of South America’s best kept climbing secrets.

On February 16th,  Lead Guide and Bolivia Climbing Director, Rachel Molstad, shared details of our Great Peaks of Bolivia expedition including trip logistics, overviews of climbing Pequeño Alpamayo (17,618 ft./5370 m) and Chachacomani (19,928 ft./6074 m), as well as insider gear and expedition tips.  The photos and climb overviews were absolutely stunning.  For those who attended the presentation, the only question left unanswered was…when can I go to Bolivia?

You can catch the Bolivia fever and watch the full webinar recording below:

I thought the experience was fantastic. The most significant strength of the program is the lead guide – Rachael Molstad. In addition to being a great guide on the mountain her intimate knowledge of the local culture and Bolivia in general enriched the experience tremendously. The actual climbs are also a strength, both Pequeño Alpamayo […]

1 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
38 chachacomani valley
Condoriri-Valley
3 pequeno alpamayo
Pequeno-Alpamayo
4 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
5 lake titicaca, sun island and the cordillera real
Lake-Titicaca-Sun-Island-and-the-Cordillera-Real
6 chachacomani valley
Chachacomani-Valley
7 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
8 condoriri valley and alpaca
Condoriri-Valley-and-Alpaca
9 illimani high camp
Illimani-High-Camp
10 pequeno alpamayo
Pequeno-Alpamayo
11 sun island
Sun-Island
12 illimani high camp
Illimani-High-Camp
13 cordillera real
Cordillera-Real
14 copacabana
Copacabana
15 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
16 condoriri valley
Condoriri-Valley
17 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
18 alpacas
Alpacas
19 ascent of chacacomani
Ascent-of-Chacacomani
20 ascent to illimani high camp
Ascent-to-Illimani-High-Camp
21 lake titicaca from the sun island
Lake-Titicaca-from-Sun-Island
22 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
23 lake titicaca
Lake-Titicaca
24 pequeno alpamayo
Pequeno-Alpamayo
25 lake titicaca and the cordillera real
Lake-Titicaca-and-the-Cordillera-Real
26 pequeno alpamayo
Pequeno-Alpamayo
27 illimani from la paz
Illimani-from-La-Paz
28 chachacomani valley
Chachacomani-Valley
29 ascent of chachacomani
Summit-of-Chachacomani
30 illimani summit ridge
Illimani-Summit-Ridge
31 chachacomani high camp
Chachacomani-High-Camp
32 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
33 illimani high camp
Illimani-High-Camp
34 illimani summit ridge
Illimani-Summit-Ridge
35 pequeno alpamayo
Pequeno-Alpamayo
36 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
37 ascent of chachacomani
Ascent-of-Chachacomani
2 condoriri valley
Chachacomani-Valley

Great Peaks of Bolivia BLOG

  • Ask a Guide: Great Peaks of Bolivia

    Submission by Rachel Molstad. Wait… There Are Mountains In Bolivia? Yes indeed, and it’s one of South America’s best kept secrets! Bolivia is a landlocked country in the heart of South America and home to the spectacular high altitude glaciated Cordillera Real (Royal Range) of the Andes. The Cordillera Real is an extremely rugged portion […]

  • Great Peaks of Bolivia Webinar

    A country of beautiful extremes, Bolivia is the highest, most isolated country in South America and holds a veritable treasure trove of climbing objectives for alpinists who venture off the beaten path. Particularly for climbers seeking to gain experience at altitude to prepare for objectives like Denali, Bolivia should not be overlooked. Despite the abundant […]

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