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Mount Vinson

Alpine Ascents on Mount Vinson

The trip was more than I expected. Simply put it was one of the best and most rewarding expeditions I’ve ever been on. I attribute that mainly to the following: Sam’s maturity, skills and leadership; The strength and support of Lakpa; The logistics and continuous information sharing by your company; The great food at other Union Glacier and in the field; The good weather; The fighting spirit and collaboration of all the other guests, we really had a great team. All the best and thank you and your team for all their support. – 2016 Climber

Different than some other outfitters, all of our trips are led by Alpine Ascents guides (not just guides hired for the season) and we incorporate teaching into every guided climb. Our history on Vinson is long and rich, beginning with our commercial expeditions in 1992 (indeed, there were some commercial flights back then), Alpine Ascents has led and cultivated Mt. Vinson climbing practices along with our flight service partners. With nearly 100% success over these past 20 years, we have developed logistics, environmental procedures, climbing routes, camps and communication protocols that have helped facilitate our high summit and excellent safety record. While items such as extra days on the mountain and satellite phones have become standard practice, our experience in number of seasons and in trip logistics is unsurpassed. Alpine Ascents’ ability to lead multiple trips per season puts us in position to adjust to changing conditions and have the resources available that a one-guide single expedition does not have. As always, we encourage you to ask questions of Alpine Ascents and other guide services before embarking on an expedition of this magnitude.

Expectations

Please remember you are part of a climbing team, and as with any team, your ability to contribute not only helps your chances for success, but also mitigates some of the climbing risks and increases the likelihood of a highly enjoyable experience for all. Our office is at your disposal to discuss training, gear, prerequisites and logistics. You may want to check out our Training regimen, as this will also serve as excellent preparation for Vinson.

Meals

We strive to provide a balanced diet while on the continent of Antarctica. This includes time spent at Union Glacier camp and time spent on Mt. Vinson during the climb. The breakfasts usually consist of eggs, pancakes, oatmeal, and some cereals, along with a hot drink. Dinners usually consist of a carbohydrate, a vegetable, and meat. Examples are rice, pasta, mixed vegetables, chicken, fish, or beef. Our hot drinks selection consists of hot cocoa, apple cider, tea and coffee.

Pre-Trip Planning

It’s a long way to Antarctica, and making the pre-trip planning as easy as possible makes for one less worry for the climber. We pride ourselves on being available for your phone calls and e-mails, and we have a 24-hour emergency number. We prepare the necessary documents in a clean and precise manner. We are happy to walk you through our application forms, bios, necessary insurance and ALE (flight service) paperwork. We can discuss and help plan training regimens (catered to where you live) and work closely with you on locating the right gear and discussing clothing options. We have an excellent travel agent who can get you out of Punta Arenas as quickly as possible with 24-hour call service. Our guides will personally contact you before your climb.

I enjoyed the Vinson expedition immensely. It was well organized, I had excellent guides (that I was familiar with), and the food while on Vinson was great. Both Sam and Lakpa worked well together to lead our team of nine. You could see them consulting with one another to make the best decisions possible. Their instructions were always very clear and direct which made us all feel very safe. The food was excellent and varied. I especially liked the nights we had salmon and steak! The guides did a good job with all food preparation and keeping things sanitary. I also like that AAI caches tents/cooking equipment – it definitely helps with the loads. I didn’t really see any weaknesses.

 

About Vinson

Should we believe that the unexplored exists, then we must view the isolation of Antarctica as an explorer’s final frontier. Unparalleled in its pristine and absolute beauty, the journey to the Antarctic continent and the climb of Mt. Vinson ignites man’s primal instincts for wilderness, the elements and conquest. The sheer magnitude of the continent and the exquisite nature of the ascent is an extreme and remarkable experience. Mount Vinson, located 600 miles from the South Pole and 1,200 miles from the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, is the highest peak on the continent. Vinson is part of the Ellsworth Mountains, which rise majestically from the Ronne Ice Shelf.

Obviously unique in location, Vinson presents more than an off-the-beaten-track climbing trip. The entire journey is surreal in texture; from the land’s-end departure point of Punta Arenas to the five-hour flight to a continent with no permanent inhabitants, and to the Union Glacier Camp amidst the giant arctic desert. While it may be inclusion in the Seven Summits that spurs the initial attraction, most climbers find Vinson to be one of their most memorable climbing experiences and chances to capture once-in-a-lifetime images.

The climb of Mt. Vinson is moderate by technical standards. It is similar to other alpine routes, with its moderate slopes and glaciated terrain. What separates Vinson from all other peaks is the sheer isolation of the mountain and the extraordinary views from its summit. As we approach the top of this remote continent, we peer across thousands of square miles of ice caps and glaciers that fade into a distinctly curved horizon. From the summit, we are blessed with views of neighboring Mt. Tyree, Shinn, and Epperly, and a multitude of unexplored peaks.

Climate

The climate on Vinson is generally controlled by the polar ice cap’s high-pressure system, creating predominantly stable conditions. But, as in any polar climate, high winds and snowfall are possible. Though the annual snowfall on Vinson is low, high winds can cause Base Camp accumulations of up to 18 inches in a year. During the summer season (November through January), there are 24 hours of sunlight. While the average temperature during these months is -20°F, the intense sun will melt snow on dark objects. As of 2010, a new runway and camp has been established at the Union Glacier (replacing the Patriot Hills camp), and has led to a lower rate of flight delays. Climbers need to be prepared to travel in extreme cold environments, and be properly geared and skilled in self-care.

Fixed Line Use

Between our low camp and high camp on Mt. Vinson is a section that involves climbing with the assistance of a fixed line. The elevation gain is roughly 1,800 ft. and it takes several hours to ascend this section. The slope angle does not surpass 40 degrees and is best climbed with crampons, ice axe, and the use of an ascender. The fixed lines are regularly maintained and are constructed of high-quality climbing ropes and anchors. We take breaks regularly during this portion of the climb, as we do for the entire expedition.

Antarctica in Brief

With 5.5 million square miles of solid ice, the mass of this continent, twice the size of Australia, creates a remote wilderness unrivaled on the planet. While the size of the continent expands and contracts with seasons, the topography remains stunning with natural sculptures finely crafted by the barrage of wind, snow and cold. It is this ice age environment which constantly attracts intrepid travelers and explorers. While Antarctica has no native population, Emilio Palma (Argentinean) was the first to be born on the continent in January 1978. The lowest temperature recorded by a thermomenter on Earth was -128.6ºF at Vostok Research Station on July 21, 1983. Though not considered ‘official’, a NASA satellite measured a temperature of -135.3 degrees in east Antarctica in 2010. With less than 2 inches of precipitation per year, Antarctica is best characterized as a desert. Antarctica currently has a number of permanent research stations supported by several cooperating nations.

First climbed

It was nearly 200 years after James Cook circumnavigated Antarctica that the summit of Mt. Vinson was reached (1966). It was the last of the seven summits to be conquered. The American Alpine Club and the National Geographic Society sponsored an American team which summitted Mt. Vinson two weeks after their arrival, on December 17, 1966. The team, led by Nicholas B. Clinch, remained about a month on the continent and summited a number of peaks including the extremely technical Tyree as well as Shinn and Gardner. (This expedition is well documented in the June 1967 National Geographic Magazine.) Soon after their return, US policy encouraging travel to Antarctica was changed to discourage travel to this region.

Mount Vinson FAQ

What is the skill level of this climb?

Those wishing to embark on this unique journey should possess prior climbing skills and be prepared for harsh conditions of extreme cold and, at times, ferocious winds. Climbers must be in strong physical condition and be able to carry 65 pounds. Mountaineering skills required include self-arrest, glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Climbers should have successfully completed at least a week long training course as well completed some other climbs such as glaciated peaks in Washington State or Alaska.

In addition climbers need to be well skilled at personal maintenance and hygiene . This is more than just having the right gear, but a sense of ones working body, ability to detect cold and other issues, and be willing to communicate your level of health with your guide.

What is the physical conditioning level needed for this climb?

Vinson at 16,067’ is an extreme, high altitude climb. You should be comfortable climbing 8 hours per day. Summit day is the most demanding portion of the climb, typically involving 8 hours for the ascent and 3-5 hours for the descent. Be prepared to carry a 55-pound pack but weight may be substantially lighter when we use sleds. Generally you carry 35 pounds in a backpack and 25 pounds on a sled.

Any tips on how a climber can maximize their chances of success?

Along with the required climbing skills, review cardio training on the Vinson training guide. We strongly recommend following the advice of our guides to acclimatize properly. We have nearly 100% success on this climb.

Who is the guiding team composed of (How many guides? Climber to guide ratio?)

Your expedition leader will be one of our Senior Mountain Guides. They will have along as many assistant guides as necessary to ensure a low climber to guide ratio. Usually 5:1 or less. This years guides include Vernon Tejas, Michael Horst and Garret Madison

What is the best season to climb / which dates will have the most chance for success?

Late November until the end of January is prime season.

Will I be sharing a tent or lodging with other climbers?

Yes, we generally use 2-person tents and sometimes 3-person tents at high camp

How much will my pack weigh?

Be prepared to carry a 55-pound pack but weight may be substantially lighter when we use sleds. Generally you carry 35 pounds in a backpack and 25 pounds on a sled.

What gear will I need?

Please review the gear list.

How does your gear rental system work?

Those requesting rental gear must submit an expedition rental form with payment by credit card. All rental gear will be mailed to the climber prior to the climb. Climbers are expected to clean all rental gear and return it to us by mail following the expedition.

Any further advice on gear and using your gear list?

While all items are required there may be times when some of the items on the gear list may not be used (such as warm weather or changing conditions). The gear lists are created by the guides to assist in having climbers be prepared to summit in any conditions.

While it is impossible for us to list all brands for certain gear, we do offer a wide variety of equipment in our Gear Shop, that has been hand-picked by our staff of mountaineering experts. Please feel free to call our offices with any gear questions or substitutes. Plastic boots or triple boots are required for this climb.

How is drinking water treated?

All water is boiled or treated.

What will the meals on the expedition be like?

Meals in the mountains consist of a diet rich in carbohydrates because our bodies do not process fat and protein efficiently at higher elevations and to compensate the increase in caloric need that high altitude climbing involves. This trip features a classic mix of climbing food and prepared meals. As we ship and purchase all our own food, meals tend to be surprisingly good.

Can I bring some food from home?

You may bring power bars, Gu, Power Gel, cereal bars or similar high energy foods, powder Gatorade is also recommended to fight dehydration. All meals will be provided on this expedition.

Are there any innoculation requirements?

No requirements at this time

What is the best air route to my destination?

Climbers generally fly via Santiago, Chile onward to Punta Arenas, Chile. Climbers that arrive early or depart late will incur in an additional airport pick up fee.

When should I book my flight? Do I need to use your Travel Agent?

Fares are generally less expensive when booked early. You may use our Travel Agent (Charles Mulvehill 1-800-727-2157) or book flights yourself. Please note that flights booked online are often difficult to change. Please send us a copy of your flight schedule as early as possible as this allows us to book pick ups and hotels.

What time should I arrive and leave and where do I meet the guides?

An Alpine staff member or representative will pick you up at the Airport in Punta Arenas. Look for a smile and an Alpine Ascents logo.

What if I arrive early or depart late? Can you arrange extra night lodging? Is there a single room option for this expedition?

We are happy to make arrangements such as personalized tours, extra hotels rooms, airport pick ups and arrange for private rooms. Please indicate that you would like a private room on your application and we will contact you with information on single room supplement costs (for hotels only). Climbers pay for their hotel rooms until departure to the Antarctic continent.

Are there any entry or Visa requirements?

None at this time. There is a $160 entrance fee to Punta Arenas, Chile.

Is there any communication while we are on the mountain?

Guides will carry satellite phones but these are generally not for personal use.

Where can I get more information on history, books, and additional activities in the region?

Check the reading list.

Can I contact the others on the climb? How about the guide?

You can always call our offices and we will have our Vinson lead guide contact you. 30 days prior to departure, we will mail a list of the other team members to you.

How much should I budget for this expedition? How much cash should I plan to bring?

Difficult to say as we can be delayed before flying to Antarctica. Fortunately one can use credit cards for meals and hotel rooms.

How much should I tip my guide and staff?

As there are only lead guides (as opposed to trips with local support) tipping is at the discretion of the climber but please feel free to contact us for guidelines.

How do I register for this expedition?

You may call our offices with a credit card or mail/fax an application with a check or credit card number or register online.

What paperwork do I need to send in?

Each climber should submit an application and flight information.

When is the money due for this expedition? What kind of payment do you except?

We accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express, personal checks and Alpine Ascents gift certificates. To reserve a space the deposit is $5,000.00 and balances are due 120 days prior to departure. Unpaid balances can result in forfeiture of trip.

What happens if I need to leave the expedition early?

Leaving the trip early is difficult given the remoteness of the continent. All climbers will be directed towards purchasing evac insurance for those situations.

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.

Let Heroes Speak: Antarctic Explorers, 1772-1922
by Michael H. Rosove, Naval Institute Press

Ski the Last Degree

Alpine Ascents now offers the opportunity for climbers and adventurers to ski from the 89th degree to the 90th degree at the South Pole. This incredible journey was once reserved for explorers on lengthy expeditions but is now accessible via this unique guided trip. We travel by ski-equipped aircraft to the 89th degree. From that point, we ski the final length, 60 nautical miles, across windswept terrain and sastrugi in an effort to reach the Geographical South Pole. This trip takes approximately 10 days. You will have hearty meals and snacks along the way, and a comfortable camp each evening to enjoy a group supper prepared by our guides. The prerequisite for any adventurer considering the South Pole ski trip is good physical condition and moderate randonee (cross-country) skiing skills.

An extremely small number of tourists have visited the pole, allowing you to literally make a historical crossing. Reach the Geographic South Pole and realize that you are now standing at the most southerly point on earth where, beneath your feet, 360 lines of longitude collide and the ice is almost 3,000m (10,000 ft.) thick. This journey can be made independently or in conjunction with our Mt. Vinson climb.

Environmental Responsibility

Alpine Ascents is deeply committed to maintaining ecosystems at home and around the world, especially in the pristine environment of Antarctica, where biosecurity is paramount. With each expedition, trek and course, we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region. Alpine Ascents reaches for the highest ethical business practices at home and abroad. Each staff member is dedicated to environmentally sound alpine ascents.

At Alpine Ascents environmental stewardship remains one of our core values and we take Leave No Trace ethics and practices very seriously. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. On every one of our courses and climbs we teach and follow the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices.

Over the years, with the assistance of our Sherpa teams, we have stepped up efforts to clean Mt. Everest. Our Wag Bag™ program made a pioneering step in human waste management for the National Park System and Forest Service in the North Cascades. On Aconcagua and Vinson, we pioneered a waste removal system on our climbs, utilizing the WAG Bag™ system. And we continue our on-going maintenance and minimal impact plans wherever we guide. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally conscious mountaineers.

As usual very well organised; the logistics on this one are difficult to say the least and as usual AAI brings it all together very well and provides a great experience of the Antarctic. Both of my guides have first class mountaineering skills; the experience they bring to a group are second to no-one. Strong […]

Disembarking on the ice from our Illuyshin 76 private jet. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Moving to Base Camp from our Twin Otter landing strip. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Neighboring Mount Shinn from High Camp. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
High Camp. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Summit Ridge. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Vinson Summit. Lakpa Rita Sherpa becomes the first Sherpa to summit Mount Vinson, and the Seven Summits. Photo: Andy Tyson
Plenty of daylight. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Climbing towards summit ridge. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Ralaxing at Union Glacier Camp. Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska
Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Photo: Monika Witkowska

Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
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