Mount Rainier 4-Day Climb of the Kautz Glacier With Alpine Ascents
FOR 2020, AS PART OF COVID-19 REGULATIONS: Climbers will need to self drive until further notice. Further information will be sent upon sign up.
The Alpine Ascents 4 Day Rainier Climb of the Kautz Glacier is a great next step for climbers who have completed a mountaineering course and want a more relaxed climbing schedule that allows for an additional night to enjoy the mountain. This instructional course/summit climb travels as a fully contained climbing expedition (with up to four guides and eight climbers). We carry our camping, cooking, and climbing kits, meaning that each person’s pack weight is significantly heavier (65 lbs.) than climber’s packs on the Muir route (40 lbs.).
Mt. Rainier (14,410 ft), is the highest volcano and largest glaciated mountain in the contiguous U.S. This alpine giant is famous for its superior climbing as well as its pristine wilderness. The vast glaciers and alpine ridges of Mount Rainier offer challenges for novice and veteran climbers alike. Alpine Ascents provides a diversity of climbs led by renowned professional guides to accommodate climbers of all skill levels.
The program was professional from start to finish – gear check to to return home. The clients’ interests were first and foremost – after being an Alpine Ascents client on 4 previous occasions I have come to expect high quality of service and my expectations were met on Mt Rainier.
60-lb. pack required
Climbing Skill Level
This route is for those climbers who performed well on the Emmons Glacier climb or have successfully completed the 8 Day Rainier (Emmons Glacier) Course or the 6 Day Mount Baker (North Cascades) Mountaineering Course, or who have had equivalent training. This four-day trip is extremely rigorous and being in excellent physical condition is mandatory. One day of skills review is included in the climb. Please note, the guide retains the right, at any point, to determine whether a climber is sufficiently fit to continue the climb
Kautz Glacier Climb FAQS
We will mail you specific information about your climb upon registration. The following Frequently Asked Questions are meant to serve as helpful guidelines.
The best way to reserve space on a climb is to call our offices and place the deposit on a VISA/MC/AMEX. Our climbs fill quickly on a first-come, first-served basis, and registering over the phone is the best way to ensure reserving the climb dates you want. You may also submit an application by mail with a check, money order, or credit card number.
Overview: Climbers attend a mandatory gear check the day before the climb, lodge in Seattle, then meet at 6:00 a.m. the day of the climb for travel to the mountain. Climbers return to Seattle on last day of the climb.
Day before climb begins: Meet at the Alpine Ascents office at 2:00 p.m. for a gear check and orientation (~2 hours).
Day 1 of Climb: Climbers meet at the Alpine Ascents Office at 6:00 a.m. Alpine Ascents provides transportation to and from Mt. Rainier. (Climbers are not to drive themselves per NPS regulations.)
Last Day of Climb: Return to the Alpine Ascents office between 7-11 p.m. on the last day of climb.
A mandatory gear check will take place the day before your climb at 2:00 p.m. You are required to attend this meeting so we can do a thorough gear check, provide packing suggestions, review the route we will be taking, discuss Leave No Trace practices and the National Park Mission Statement, and answer any questions you may have regarding the climb.
Location: Alpine Ascents office @ 109 West Mercer St., Seattle, WA
What to bring: Please bring your pack fully loaded with all gear listed on the Gear List. Climbers can pick up rental gear at the gear check.
Arrive in time to attend the gear check (preferably the night before the gear check in case of travel delays) and plan to depart the day after your climb ends. There are variables, such as the weather, that make it difficult to guarantee the exact time each climb will end. You will need to be ready to go at 6:00 a.m. on the morning your climb begins.
Alpine Ascents uses the services of Charles Mulvehill at Scan East West Travel: 1-800-727-2157 or 206-623 2157. Or email [email protected]. They are very familiar with our international and domestic programs and offer competitive prices on all domestic and international flights.
From Sea-Tac International Airport to the MarQueen Hotel, or any hotel in downtown Seattle:
Shuttle Express: Airport to MarQueen Hotel or downtown Seattle and return.
Cost: $21.00 (one way depending on number of riders)
Shuttle Express also has regular service to downtown Seattle and can be easily found via Sea-Tac courtesy phones.
Street parking is limited to two-hour meters. There are numerous pay lots located adjacent to and across from our offices. Please be advised, overnight parking may be difficult to secure during the summer season. Please note: Free long-term parking is generally difficult in the vicinity of Alpine Ascents. If you plan to stay in Seattle and have a car, try to arrange a taxi or ride to our offices on the morning of the climb. You may store extra gear in our offices until your return. Please give us a call if you have any problems.
- From Interstate 5, take the Mercer Street exit and follow the signs to Seattle Center/Space Needle. (A quick right turn onto Fairview Ave., and a quick left turn onto Valley St., which becomes Broad Street.)
- After you pass the Space Needle on your right, make a right turn onto Denny Way.
- Proceed to 1st Ave. North and turn right.
- Proceed to Mercer Street and turn left.
- We are located at 109 West Mercer Street, directly across the street from Bank of America and next door to Ozzie’s Tavern.
- Street parking is limited to two-hour parking meters, though there are several pay lots near our offices.
There are several lodging options for our climbs. We meet at our office on the day of the climb at 6:00am. Alpine Ascents has partnered with our neighbors the Marqueen Hotel – located two blocks from our office. Reservations for your room should be made as soon as possible.
Rates: Reasonable by Seattle standards, vary by season.
If you wish to share a room with another climb participant, the Marqueen can help with those arrangements. You will need a room for the night prior to the start of your climb and for the last night of your climb. The hotels are 2 blocks from the Alpine Ascents office. Extra gear may be stored at the Mediterranean or at our office until your return.
Staying elsewhere in downtown Seattle is another option. During the climbing season, hotels in the Seattle metropolis are difficult to reserve and are a bit more expensive. You may elect to stay in any one of the numerous hotels in the area, but you will be responsible for getting to our offices by 6:00am the morning of your climb. We are a short taxi cab ride away from most of the downtown hotels and local equipment shops. After the climb, we will return to our offices and you can return to your hotel by taxi at that point. You will need a room for the night prior to the start of your climb and for the last night of your climb. Please note: Free long-term parking is generally difficult in the vicinity of Alpine Ascents. If you plan to stay in Seattle and have a car, try to arrange a taxi or ride to our offices on the morning of the climb. Extra gear may be stored in our office until your return.
When you sign up for a climb we will send you a confirmation package that includes an equipment list detailing each piece of equipment you will need. Please read your equipment list very carefully. You are required to bring every item on the list so be as precise as possible when packing. Alpine Ascents rents quality technical equipment at reasonable rates. If you have any equipment-related questions please call us (206-378-1927). You can also email us at: [email protected] We have a full-time gear expert on staff.
You will pick up your rental gear at our offices during the gear check.
The mountains of the northwest and north coast are heavily glaciated temperate mountains. This means they are subject to highly variable weather conditions.
- Pack everything in two layers of sturdy plastic. (Trash Compactor Bags work the best) Bring one large trash bag to completely and easily cover your pack. You should bring at least 4 bags.
- It is likely that you will be asked to help carry some of the group equipment, so make sure there is some additional room in and on your backpack.
You will get far more out of your climb by reading Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 6th ed., The Mountaineers. This book provides an excellent overview of the elements involved in alpine mountaineering. Chapters 1, 2, 3 and 6 review many of the.phpects we will be covering during your training and familiarity with these.phpects will greatly enhance your experience.
We run our own retail climbing shop and online gear store, where all Alpine Ascents climbers receive a discount and can receive personalized advice from our gear experts.
The boots, packs, crampons, ice axes, tents, and other items are cleaned and checked on a daily basis. Gear is sized at the gear check and changes can be made at that time. All of our gear is of the highest quality. Please note that double plastic boots do not break in.
Yes. See the training tips above, but… Keep in mind that you are climbing a mountain and it is not easy. If you follow our physical fitness tips and do some training on your own, you should complete the climb with no problems.
For climbers who need to be escorted from the climb, there is an evacuation fee.
The weight of your pack is generally 65 pounds. We invite you to check out our Kautz Climb Training page.
We highly recommend checking with your physician before embarking on strenuous physical activity. We reserve the right to turn away those climbers who we determine to be in inadequate physical condition.
This route is for those climbers who performed well on the Emmons Glacier Climb or have successfully completed the 8-Day Emmons Glacier Course or the 6-Day North Cascades Mountaineering Course or equivalent training) This is an extremely rigorous four days and being in excellent physical condition is mandatory. One day of skills review is included in the climb. Please note, the guide retains the right, at any point, to determine whether a climber is sufficiently fit to continue the climb.
Breakfast and Dinners (as well as stoves and tents) are provided on the climb. Please bring a cup, bowl and spoon. You are required to bring your own lunches (Please review the Sample Menu Plan in your confirmation package). If you have any food allergies or requirements, please let us know in advance. There is a place on the application to do this. You may be asked to help carry provisions to each camp. If you have a particular favorite snack/lunch food or beverage mix, please feel free to bring it along. All tents and group climbing equipment are provided on the climb. Before departing for the trailhead, we will check and organize personal/group gear. However, it is advisable to purchase most of your bulk foods before we meet. If you are staying in Seattle, there are numerous supermarkets as well as the flagship REI, North Face, and Patagonia gear shops for fresh and prepackaged foods.
Since everyone purchases different gear and is a different size, it is hard to give you an exact number. For most of our climbs, you can expect your internal frame pack (packed with gear and food) to weigh between 55 and 65 pounds. It is likely that you will be asked to help carry some of the group equipment such as ropes and protection, so make sure there is some additional room in and on your backpack for approximately 4-8 pounds of gear.
All summits climbs on Mount Rainier have a 2:1 climber to guide ratio.
This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.
I LOVED MY EXPEDITION. THE KAUTZ ROUTE GAVE ME A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING; HIGH ALTITUDE GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING, ICE CLIMBING, AND EXPEDITION CAMPING. ALL FOUR GUIDES HAD GREAT LEADERSHIP SKILLS.