The 10 Day Rainier Baker Mountaineering Course
FOR 2020, AS PART OF COVID-19 REGULATIONS: Climbers will need to self drive until further notice. Further information will be sent upon sign up.
6 days extensive training on Mt. Baker with summit and then an attempt of Mt. Rainier via the technical Kautz Glacier.
I was wildly impressed with my first AAI experience. I’m very happy with the baseline climbing skill set that I was able to learn and effectively practice on this trip. I feel confident going out with friends to hone my new skills as I work my way up to bigger and more technical climbs. I want to sincerely thank AAI for this eye-opening experience in mountaineering. I’m truly excited to further my climbing journey! –2019 Climber
This 10 day course was exceptional in every way possible. I was able to come into the course with predominantly solo mountaineering experience and developed the fundamental knowledge and confidence to plan out and execute team based objectives in the future. To me, that’s a huge success in what I hoped to gain from participating in this course. –2019 Climber
For those seeking to quickly gain skills and climbing experience, we offer an extraordinary challenge for the budding mountaineer: the The 10 Day Rainier Baker Mountaineering Course, which combines our 6 Day Mount Baker Course with a 4-day climb of Mount Rainier via the challenging and scenic Kautz route. This is a superb opportunity for those who want to put their new skills to an immediate test. To better prepare students for the demanding ice climbing on the Kautz Glacier, all six of the training days are spent on the north side of Mount Baker, with one day dedicated to technical climbing on the vertical ice on the Coleman Glacier. We offer a guide ratio of 4:1 for days one through six, then 2:1 for the climax of the Kautz Route. Please Note: Alpine Ascents reserves the right to change location from the Kautz to another area in the Cascades when climbing conditions are not favorable.
Distinguished among climbing schools, our 6 day program has been the foundation of our education programs for over 20 years. During this course, one receives hands-on climbing and climber’s safety training in Washington’s glorious Cascade Range (as seen in the slideshow above). The Cascades is a huge mountain range with scores of peaks topping 8,000 feet, upwards of 400 glaciers, and countless permanent snowfields. The first part of the course will be held on the north side of Mt. Baker, offering climbers the chance to learn on actual glaciers, practice ice climbing, and make a summit attempt.
After our first 6 days on Mount Baker, we drive south to Mount Rainier (conditions permitting) and begin the final phase of the course.
“I loved this course. My goal was to become an asset on a rope team instead of a liability, and create a solid foundation of skills to build upon to continue my growth in mountaineering. I feel that I have achieved this. It was great we were able to summit both Baker and Rainier, but that was just icing on the cake. The training that I received is what I’m most grateful for.” –10-Day Course Climber
The Kautz glacier is a spectacular intermediate climb that requires excellent physical conditioning. The challenging four-day climb is highlighted by several hundred feet of steep snow and ice climbing that weaves through the serac walls on the Kautz glacier. Please note we reserve the right to change locations from the Kautz to a North Cascades area if the route conditions on the Kautz are not favorable. This decision will be made just prior to the climb.
This program is designed for the beginner or intermediate climber who wishes to develop strong fundamental skills in all aspects of snow and glacier climbing
Increasing technical knowledge/skills in all aspects of snow and alpine climbing including:
- Glacier travel
- Rope/belay techniques
- Crevasse rescue
- Route finding
- Ice Climbing
- Climbing risk management
Developing educated, self-reliant climbers with the ability to evaluate subjective/objective hazards including:
- Rock fall
- Glacier conditions
- Gear evaluations
- Critical decision-making
- Group experience
- White-out conditions
- Wilderness navigation
- Weather conditions
This course serves as a prerequisite for many of Alpine Ascents’ intermediate-level climbs and is a stepping stone for more technically difficult mountains. It has served as a springboard for many climbing careers, including those of numerous Everest summiteers, and has developed a skills foundation for hundreds of independent climbers. It has also been successfully used as a training ground for skilled adventurers, rangers, law enforcement, firefighters, military, stunt people and others who require climbing skills in their careers.
About The North Cascades
The 6 day portion of these courses is held on the north side of Mount Baker.
The North Cascades in Washington State form the largest and most rugged alpine wilderness mountain range in the contiguous United States. Contained within this range are scores of peaks topping 8,000 feet, upwards of 400 glaciers, and countless permanent snowfields. Most of the high peaks in the North Cascades are composed of metamorphic or intrusive igneous rocks. These weather-resistant rocks have been heavily sculpted by alpine glaciation, producing stunning peaks and ridges. These breathtaking views and the wide variety of alpine climbing have earned the area the nickname “The American Alps.” The North Cascades are considered the premier training ground for developing alpine climbers. See our Course Catalog for a complete listing of our North Cascades course offerings.
The weather in the North Cascades can be extremely variable, with snow sometimes below 3,000 feet. Precipitation levels are heavy, particularly during the winter months. “Variable conditions” also include glorious weather for lengthy periods, usually in late summer. For instructional purposes, the optimum time to climb in the Cascades is from early May through late August. This is when the combination of weather and snow conditions is usually at its best. The vegetation and wildlife of the North Cascades are interesting and diverse. Approximately 150 common species and another 100 or so less common species of wildflowers bloom during the summer. This range is aesthetically exceptional and we hope you find yourself returning many times to enjoy its grandeur.
Many who have been introduced to the world of alpine climbing in the Cascades have gone on to climb in the world’s greatest mountain ranges. We hope our program will be the first step towards a lifetime of mountaineering.
Cascades Summit Details
Mt. Baker (10,781 ft.), the highest point of the North Cascades, is a heavily glaciated dormant volcano. The twelve active glaciers of Mt. Baker cover an area exceeding 20 square miles. Mt. Baker is unique in its great mass of snow and ice and easy accessibility. This combination creates a perfect alpine training ground.
Mt. Rainier (14,410 ft.), is the highest volcano and largest glaciated mountain in the contiguous U.S. This alpine giant is famous for its superior climbing as well as its pristine wilderness. The vast glaciers and alpine ridges of Mount Rainier offer challenges for novice and veteran climbers alike.
This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews.
Frequently Asked Questions - 10 Day Course
You will be mailed specific information for your climb or course upon registration. The following is to serve as a helpful guideline.
You should aim to be in the best shape of your life. The weight of your pack is generally 65 pounds. We invite you to check out our comprehensive Training page. We highly recommend checking with your physician before embarking on strenuous physical activity. We reserve the right to turn away those climbers who we determine to be in inadequate physical condition.
The best way to reserve space on a course is to call our offices and place the deposit on a VISA/MC/AMEX. You may also fill out a secure online application here. Our courses fill quickly on a first-come, first-served basis, and registering over the phone is the best way to ensure reserving the course dates you want. You may also submit an application by mail with a check, money order or credit card number (see register section of website).
Location: Alpine Ascents Office. 109 West Mercer Street, Seattle.
Mountaineering Courses Begins: 6:30 a.m., Day 1 of the course
Finishes: Between 6:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. on the last day of the course.
Please note: Our recommended hotel, The MarQueen Hotel is located two blocks from our office.
Alpine Ascents will provide transportation on all climbs and courses excluding the 2 Day Mt. Adams Climb and Private Climbs.
We recommend staying overnight the night before the course begins and on the evening of the last day of the course. Because our last course day is a summit day, there are variables that make it difficult to guarantee the exact time each course will end. You will need to be ready to go at 6:30am on the morning your course begins. Please note; if you have a 2 pm gear check the day prior to your climb, it may be advisable to arrive 1 day before your gear check.
Alpine Ascents uses the services of Charles Mulvehill at Scan East West Travel: 1-800-727-2157 or 206-623 2157. They are very familiar with our Mountaineering School and offer competitive prices on all domestic and international flights. You can also contact him via email: [email protected]
From Sea-Tac International Airport to the Marqueen Hotel or any hotel in downtown Seattle:
Shuttle Express: Airport to Marqueen Hotel or downtown Seattle and return. shuttleexpress.com
Cost: $38.00 one way
The Shuttle Express also has regular service to downtown Seattle and can be easily found via Sea-Tac courtesy phones.
You can also take Link light rail to downtown and then take a taxi. Westlake Station is closest to our office and the Marqueen.
There is limited parking near the Alpine Ascents Office. Unfortunately, parking in downtown Seattle can be difficult. There are several parking lots and garages nearby that offer daily parking, but most do not offer weekly parking. A good option is to contact the Seattle Center Parking office and look into purchasing a monthly parking pass through them. They have a few garages with several pricing options: seattlecenter.com.
- From Interstate 5, take the Mercer Street Exit and follow the signs to Seattle Center/Space Needle.
- We are located at 109 West Mercer Street, directly across the street from Bank of America and Next Door to Ozzie’s Tavern.
Street parking is limited to 2-hour zones and parking meters, though there are several pay lots near our offices.
All courses except those listed as Intermediate are designed for beginners in very good physical condition. Our 13 Day course is designed for both beginning and intermediate climbers who are in excellent physical condition and serious about acquiring in-depth experience in all aspects of alpine climbing.
Within walking distance of our Seattle Office is the MarQueen Hotel. We recommend staying there at our preferred rate. We meet at our office on the day of the course at 6:30am. The Marqueen Hotel is located two blocks from our office.
If you wish to share a room with another course participant, The MarQueen can help with those arrangements. You will need a room for the night prior to the start of your course and for the last night of your course. The hotel is 2 blocks from the Alpine Ascents office. Extra gear may be stored at our office until your return.
Staying elsewhere in downtown Seattle is another option. During the climbing season, hotels in the Seattle metropolis are difficult to reserve and are a bit more expensive. You may elect to stay in any one of the numerous hotels in the area, but you will be responsible for getting to our offices by 6:30am the morning of your course. We are a short taxi cab ride away from most of the downtown hotels and local equipment shops. After the course, we will return to our offices and you can return to your hotel by taxi at that point. You will need a room for the night prior to the start of your course and for the last night of your course. Please note: Free long-term parking is generally difficult in the vicinity of Alpine Ascents. If you plan to stay in Seattle and have a car, try to arrange a taxi or ride to our offices on the morning of the course. Extra gear may be stored in our office until your return.
When you sign up for a course we will send you a confirmation package that includes an equipment list detailing each piece of equipment you will need. Please read your equipment list very carefully. You are required to bring every item on the list so be as precise as possible when packing. Alpine Ascents rents quality technical equipment at reasonable rates. If you have any equipment-related questions please call us (206-378-1927). You can also email us at: [email protected]
Please review the Sample Menu Plan. As part of the curriculum, you are responsible for your own food. Before departing for the trailhead, we will check and organize personal/group gear. Additionally, if necessary we will make one final stop for groceries. However, it is advisable to purchase most of your bulk foods before we meet. There are several large supermarkets near our office including Trader Joe’s, Safeway, and Metropolitan Market. If you would prefer to incorporate freeze dried meals into your menu, our retail shop has a nice selection of Alpine Aire meals. There is also an REI in the general vicinity.
You will pick up your rental gear at our offices during the gear check.
Yes, students generally pair up during the gear check to share the weight and bulk of a tent and stove.
Since everyone purchases different gear and is a different size, it is hard to give you an exact weight. For most of our courses, you can expect your internal frame pack (packed with gear and food) to weigh between 55 and 65 pounds. It is likely that you will be asked to help carry some of the group equipment such as ropes and protection, so make sure there is some additional room in and on your backpack for approximately 4-8 pounds of gear. The total potential weight to be carried is 65 – 75 pounds.
The mountains of the northwest and north coast are heavily glaciated temperate mountains. This means they are subject to highly variable weather conditions.
- Pack everything in two layers of sturdy plastic. (Trash Compactor Bags work the best) Bring one large trash bag to completely and easily cover your pack. You should bring at least 4 bags.
- It is likely that you will be asked to help carry some of the group equipment, so make sure there is some additional room in and on your backpack.
You will get far more out of your course by reading Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 6th ed., The Mountaineers. This book provides an excellent overview of the elements involved in alpine mountaineering. Chapters 1, 2, 3 and 6 review many of the.phpects we will be covering during your training and familiarity with these.phpects will greatly enhance your experience.
On our 3-Day Mt Baker climbs the ratio is 3:1, Training Courses (programs 3 days or greater), the student to instructor ratio is 5:1 . For our 13-Day course it is 4:1. Our 8-Day and 12-Day Alaska courses have a 5:1 ratio.
We run our own retail climbing shop and online gear store, where all Alpine Ascents climbers receive a discount.
All of our gear is of the highest quality. The boots, packs, crampons, ice axes, tents, and other items are cleaned and checked on a daily basis. Please note that double plastic boots do not break in.
Your course will take place on Mount Baker for the first 6 days and then move to Mount Rainier for the final 4 days of the course.
There will be a layover in Seattle between the first portion of the trip and the last 4-days on Mt Rainier. You will need to find a place to stay that evening in Seattle like the MarQueen Hotel. We will provide all the transportation during the course.
Alpine Ascents International takes Leave No Trace principles very seriously. We are a pioneering organization in environmentally positive methods of waste disposal. We were the first guide service to implement the use of the revolutionary “Wag Bag” system. Other wilderness companies and organizations are taking our lead and are now implementing this excellent product. If you have climbed with us and are wondering where to obtain your own supplies, you can order Wag Bags from Phillips Environmental directly from their website: http://www.thepett.com
Yes. See the training tips above, but… Keep in mind that you are climbing a mountain and it is not easy. If you follow our physical fitness tips and do some training on your own, you should complete the course with no problems.
For climbers who need to be escorted from the course, there is a minimum fee of $500.00.
Yes, I enjoyed the course and it exceeded my expectations in every way. After completing it, I feel 100% confident on using the skills I learned and would be ready to use them on future climbs. I couldn’t have asked for better guides, and their teaching style worked well with my learning style!