Climb Mont Blanc With Alpine Ascents
It was amazing in so many ways. The guides are awesome and extremely knowledgeable. The entire climb schedule is so well thought out. It’s completely designed to create a great experience.
It was a great week of climbing in the Alps! Our guides were excellent. I felt confident in their leadership and safe the entire trip. Climbing with them is like climbing with a good friend.
Our finely crafted 9 day Mont Blanc program takes a unique approach, using our classic Alpine Ascents style to guiding this highest peak in the Alps. With extra days for summit and training we greatly increase traditional success with ready climbers and a chance to combat fickle weather. All teams start with an ascent Grand Paradiso (the highest peak in Italy), allowing for increased acclimatizing while also offering a chance for the climber to see a different area of the Alps. These details truly make the difference not only in possible summit success but in providing and superb overall climbing experience.
Our inclusive 9 day programs utilizes an excellent a 3 star hotel before and after the climbing portion of the trip. Many of our competitors do not include all costs and offer shorter expedition with only a few days of climbing.
Alpine Ascents provides a one-of-a-kind experience climbing Mont Blanc, as our guides are highly trained and all are certified by the American Mountain Guides Association or the International Federation of Mountain Guide Association in skiing, rock climbing, and alpine climbing. Guides have experience working all over the globe, but typically they spend the majority of the season working in the Alps, which ensures they are up to date on mountain conditions and weather. Like many classic mountains in the United States, Mont Blanc conditions evolve throughout the season. Recent hot summers have increased the risk of rockfall in the Grand Couloir, affecting climbing conditions throughout the crowded mid season. When Mont Blanc is in good shape, individuals with excellent fitness and prior climbing experience are successful. The best chances for a successful Mont Blanc summit attempt are early and late season,
We have been running Alps trips since 2010 and are the only American company with an all-inclusive trip so that you don’t have to worry about booking your hotels, huts, and tram fees. The nature of the Alps allows for maximum flexibility, so if conditions are not suited for our intended objective, we have many options to experience a different summit or area of the Alps.
CLIMBING MONT BLANC OVERVIEW
As the highest peak in Western Europe, Mont Blanc is perhaps the most famed ascent in the Alps, and is considered the birthplace of climbing. First climbed in 1786, Mont Blanc maintains the same allure today, given the peak’s stunning beauty, pristine villages, and its prominence as the Alps’ high point. The peak has relatively easy access due to the trams and lifts that begin in the Chamonix valley. Alpine Ascents provides training and acclimatizing prior to our summit attempt on Mont Blanc.
Highlights
- Highest peak in Western Europe
- Only American company with an all-inclusive trip (hotels, trams, lifts, etc.), making our prices highly competitive
- Includes 4 nights in European mountain huts with breakfast and dinner
- Includes all trams/lifts/gondolas
- Includes all transportation once trip has started in Chamonix
- Pre-climb training
- Climb of Gran Paradiso (Highest peak in Italy)
- Fully certified IFMGA mountain guides
- All hotels included during the trip are at a three-star hotel in downtown Chamonix, France (4 nights)
- 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio on Mont Blanc portion
- Alpine Ascents logo item
Loved, loved, loved the Mt. Blanc trip! I don’t think there are words to adequately describe my expedition. It was way beyond just enjoying it. It was absolutely spectacular! The guides were amazing, the country is simply breathtaking, the huts in the Swiss Alps are incredible, the team of clients were awesome, the schedule was perfect, everything was perfectly planned and coordinated, the food was to die for, etc. I have nothing but praise and excitement for the Mt. Blanc trip, and Peter and Jonathon in particular. Absolutely first rate, class act that went far beyond my expectations. 2 thumbs way up.
Gouter Route with Alpine Ascents
The Gouter Route is the most common way to ascend Mont Blanc. Though considered the easiest way to the summit, the Gouter route is still a challenging mountaineering route that should not be underestimated. Climbers need to maintain excellent fitness and obtain all the climbing skills on the acclimatization days leading up to the Mont Blanc ascent.
From Chamonix, France we will shuttle to the village of Bellevue (10min drive) and then take the cable car and train to reach Nid d’Aigle at 7,775ft. From here we will start making our ascent of Mont Blanc. One of the highlights of climbing in the Alps is the opportunity to stay in the renowned Mountain Huts, which offer comfort and convenience compared to carrying a heavier pack and setting up camp. Climbing Mont Blanc requires a confirmed reservation at the mountain huts on the Gouter route. The mountain huts are managed by FFCAM (Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne). These huts are in high demand and must be secured well in advance. Our ascent option will vary depending on hut availability.
Two Nights at Tete Rousse (Alpine Ascents Standard Program): Our climb spends 2 nights at the Tete Rousse hut. This is the lower hut on the mountain at 10,456 feet. This lower hut has the benefit of allowing you to sleep lower on the mountain and this lower hut reduces the likelihood of altitude illness.
Please note: On occasion we may use the higher hut on the mountain, which is the Gouter Hut (12,522ft). Due to its location, this hut is difficult to book, it is often crowded, loud, and some climbers complain of an trouble sleeping at this altitude. There may be occasions where guides opt to use this hut.
European Mountain Huts
One of the benefits of climbing in the European Alps is the amazing hut system in place for climbers. A tradition since the late 19th century, the huts serve as base camp, a refuge from the elements, and even a bunk house with restaurant. Huts are fully staffed with a guardian and cook staff. The system allows us to leave our sleeping bags, tents, stoves, and meals behind while we climb. Due to the popularity of the huts, these can often be crowded during peak climbing season with 80-160 climbers per night. The huts all have indoor washrooms and the sleeping rooms are bunk style. All of the huts provide ‘hut slippers’ for climbers to wear while inside the building. Please be aware that the huts do not have WiFi. Dinners are typically comprised of soup, cheese, bread, and a meat dish served with a grain and dessert. The huts can accommodate vegetarians. A typical French breakfast of bread & jam is served in the morning with coffee and tea. Starting mid-day at most huts, you can purchase a “tarte d’jour” (tart of the day), an omelet, coffee, assorted beverages, and other snack food for an additional cost.
Hut Booking Process
Tier 1 Booking: Before December 1, 2024
- Early Registration: To maximize your chances of securing a hut reservation, please book your Mont Blanc trip by December 1, 2024.
- Application Submission: Complete the Alpine Ascents application and email a copy of your passport to: [email protected]
- Confirmation Notification: We will inform you between December 1 and December 31, 2024 whether we have successfully secured your hut reservation.
- If Reservation is Unsuccessful: If we are unable to secure a hut reservation for you, you will be moved to the Tier 2 Booking category. At this point, you may choose to cancel your registration if you prefer.
Tier 2 Booking: After December 1, 2024
- Waitlist Registration: If you register after December 1, 2024, you will be added to the Mont Blanc hut waitlist.
- Alternate Itinerary: Before confirming a hut booking, your alternate itinerary will include climbing Monte Rosa, Switzerland’s highest peak.
- Confirmation and Adjustment: Once we secure a hut booking for you, we will adjust your itinerary to include Mont Blanc.
- Cancellation Option: We understand that some climbers may wish to wait for a hut reservation before fully committing. We will contact you 150 days before departure to confirm your status and offer the option to cancel if you choose.
Important Notes:
- Monte Rosa as an Alternative: If a Mont Blanc hut reservation is not available, Monte Rosa is a fantastic alternative offering a comparable climbing experience with stunning views above the picturesque town of Zermatt. The equipment list for Monte Rosa is the same as for Mont Blanc.
- Waitlist Availability: The waitlist provides a chance to secure a spot in a fully booked hut. Availability is subject to cancellations and changes in existing reservations. We will notify you as soon as a spot becomes available.
Please review the provided options and make your registration as early as possible to enhance your chances of securing a hut reservation. We look forward to assisting you in your Mont Blanc adventure!
Climbing Mont Blanc
Our overall success rate on climbing Mont Blanc is near 80%. Climbers are typically challenged by the physical nature of the climb. Weather and objective hazards are also a consideration when planning our summit bid, and sometimes we will attempt another 4,000-m peak when conditions on the Mont Blanc are suboptimal. Climbers find these alternate objectives equally challenging and rewarding. Between 2023 and 2024 Alpine Ascents helped 20+ climbers reach the summit of Mont Blanc.
We begin our Mont Blanc climb in beautiful Chamonix. On the morning of day 2, our guides complete a full, detailed gear check after our morning breakfast and then we head up to the Aiguilles Rouges for some alpine rock and snow climbing training.
History
The first recorded ascent of Mont Blanc was on August 8, 1786 by Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard. Nearby, Chamonix hosted the first Winter Olympics in 1924. In 1965, the 7.25-mile long tunnel that goes under the Mont Blanc Massif was completed. This tunnel connects Italy with France and is a major transportation route in the Alps.
Training and summit attempt of Gran Paradiso: Highest Peak in Italy
We begin our Mont Blanc program by climbing the Crouches traverse and the 4,061-m Gran Paradiso. The Crouches traverse is the perfect objective for our first climbing day because it provides climbers with a chance to practice alpine rock and snow climbing skills. Plus, it is a relatively short day and allows us to work off the jet-lag haze in a beautiful but not entirely committing setting.
On Day 4 of the trip, we will head to the Gran Paradiso in Italy via private taxi. The Gran Paradiso is the tallest peak in Italy and a great introduction to mountaineering in the Alps. We will spend two nights in the beautiful Chabod mountain hut where they serve delicious Italian cuisine. The hut is located at 9,022 ft. and offers climbers a great chance to acclimatize to higher elevations. Learning and reviewing skills is the major goal during this portion of the trip. During our summit attempt, our guides will continue to offer coaching as it relates to cramponing, ice axe use, and glacier travel. Our summit day often takes around 8–10 hours round-trip from the hut and provides our climbers with a chance to test out their skills and fitness on a 4,000-m peak. On our third day of the Gran Paradiso trip, we will descend back to town where we will refuel with gelato and Italian treats. Our goal is to be back in Chamonix by midday so that we have plenty of time to rest and recover and get ready for the Mont Blanc portion of the climb.
On to Mont Blanc
Rested from our night in Chamonix, we begin our Mont Blanc ascent by boarding the Bellevue Tram and the Mont Blanc tramway car to the Nid d’aigle (eagles nest) at 7,800 ft. From here, we travel a two to three hour hike up a trail and across a small glacier takes us to the Tete Rouse Hut at 10,400 ft., where we enjoy an early dinner before going to bed. We wake for an alpine start on our ascent of Mont Blanc. The climb begins with crossing the Grande Couloir and climbing up the Arete du Gouter. This section requires climbers to move efficiently and effectively over 3rd, 4th, and low 5th class terrain. Climbing up the Arete du Gouter includes approximately 600 feet of moderately steep but very featured alpine rock. The steepest sections require a few rock-climbing moves. Crampons may or may not be used in this section depending on route conditions. Two to two and a half hours after leaving the Tete Rousse hut, we crest the ridge and arrive at the ultramodern Refuge de Gouter (12,500’) where we can take a nice, sheltered snack break inside before heading back out for the final 4.5 hour climb to the summit. From the Gouter Hut, the climbing route changes character and becomes a snow and glacier climb. After climbing for about two hours on snow in crampons and ascending the Dome d’Gouter, we reach the famous Vallot emergency shelter at 14,400ft. From the Vallot, the climbing route follows a steep and stunning ridgeline until we reach the spectacular summit ridge of Mont Blanc at 15,782 ft. Upon reaching the summit, we carefully navigate the descent back down the breathtaking summit ridge to access the glacier below the Vallot shelter, then an easy glacier walk brings us back down to the Gouter hut where we can relax, eat, and either descend to the Tete Rouse or spend the night.
Reading List
Scrambles Amongst the Alps (National Geographic Adventure Classics)
by Edward Whymper
I just returned home and wanted to send you a note to let you know what an incredible experience I had with my recent Mont Blanc and Matterhorn trips in the Alps with AAI. This was the 5th trip I have done with AAI and it was exceptional. Jonathon Spitzer is without question the best guide I have ever worked with and a real asset for the company
