Pico de Orizaba
El Pico de Orizaba (18,491FT / 5,636M) - Sierra Negra (15,354FT / 4,680M) - La Malinche (14,636FT / 4,461M) | Mexico- Home
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- Pico de Orizaba
About The Volcanoes of Mexico
The Pico de Orizaba expedition ascends three distinct peaks, each one building acclimatization and skills to the final objective, Orizaba. La Malinche (14,640 feet /4462 meters) provides an introduction to altitude, with a scenic ascent through forests and alpine terrain that opens to expansive views of Mexico’s central volcanic range. From its summit, climbers can often see the peaks of Popocatépetl, Iztaccíhuatl, and Pico de Orizaba—a striking preview of what lies ahead. The climb is physically engaging yet non-technical, making it an excellent platform for acclimatization before moving higher.
Sierra Negra (15354 feet/4680 meters)—the fifth-highest peak in Mexico—rises from the Valle del Encuentro, the broad saddle it shares with Pico de Orizaba. The climb adds to acclimatization while delivering unforgettable close-up views of Orizaba’s massive south face. From Sierra Negra’s summit, Orizaba’s scale and complexity become tangible, helping climbers prepare mentally and physically for the final ascent. Sierra Negra also hosts one of the world’s premier astronomical instruments: a summit observatory that Mexico’s National Institute of Astrophysics, Optics and Electronics (INAOE) and the University of Massachusetts jointly operate.
The trip’s crown jewel is Pico de Orizaba (18,491 feet/5,636 meters), the highest volcano in North America and the third-highest peak on the continent. Rising with remarkable prominence, Orizaba stands out dramatically from the surrounding landscape and is visible from great distances, including the Gulf of Mexico, on clear days. Its ice-clad slopes hold Mexico’s largest glaciers, including the Jamapa Glacier. The summit is both a cultural icon—known locally as Citlaltépetl, or “Star Mountain”—and a serious mountaineering objective that rewards climbers with a meaningful step into high-altitude climbing.
The Alpine Ascents Way
Our Pico de Orizaba expedition begins in Mexico City, where climbers blend orientation and expedition prep with a welcome dinner. While in Mexico City, we adapt to altitude while exploring the city, and make a visit to the National Museum of Anthropology. The group then travels to the highlands beneath La Malinche, and we acclimatize and train while staying at a lodge that used by Olympic athletes.
Our itinerary follows a deliberate progression through La Malinche, Sierra Negra, and finally Pico de Orizaba, steadily building altitude and technical readiness. Each ascent plays a specific role in acclimatization and preparation, and culminates in a classic, glaciated climb on Orizaba’s Jamapa Glacier. Rest days, comfortable accommodations, and excellent local cuisine are woven throughout the itinerary, helping climbers recover well and stay energized for summit efforts.
Care, expertise, and intention define the Alpine Ascents experience on this expedition. Our conservative climber-to-guide ratios—including 2:1 guiding on Orizaba—allow for individualized pacing, coaching, and sound decision-making. Many of the same guides who lead Alpine Ascents’ Denali climbs often lead the Mexico expeditions, making this trip a natural extension of our progression philosophy. The result is a well-supported, thoughtfully paced, and deeply rewarding expedition—both as a standalone adventure and as preparation for bigger objectives ahead.
Pico de Orizaba Blog
More from the blogPico de Orizaba FAQ
Climbers should have successfully completed any of the following Alpine Ascents Beginner Mountaineering Courses: Cascades 6 Day, Alaska or Rainier 8 Day, Alaska 12 Day, Cascades 13 Day, or have equivalent skills and experience. Those who have had a strong performance on a 3-day Baker or Rainier climb may also join. Climbers must have basic knowledge of progression on snow and ice, self-arrest, crevasse rescue and glacier travel. Snow and ice slopes are moderate (up to 45 degrees). During the expedition we will spend three days on the Cayambe glacier reviewing skills, a requirement based on our desire to have similarly skilled team members.
We highly recommend being in very good physical condition.
Along with the required technical skills, review the Training page of our web site.
An American guide accompanied by local guides lead the trip. The ratio is typically 3:1.
October through December is the best season for climbing in Mexico.
This trip usually includes six to eight climbers.
On the climb you will be sharing expedition tents, however, in town you may share rooms or pay a higher fee for a single room. Contact our office for information on single-room supplements.
On average, packs will weigh 25-35 lbs. When we move to High Camp on Ixta, the pack weight for this one day will be 55-60 lbs.
Please review the Gear List.
All rental gear will be mailed to climbers prior to the climb. Those requesting rental gear must submit an expedition rental form with payment by fax or mail. Climbers are expected to clean all rental gear and return it to us by mail following the expedition.
While all items are required, there may be times when some of the items on the Gear List may not be used (such as during warm weather or changing conditions). The Gear Lists are created by the guides to assist in preparing climbers to summit in any conditions.
While it is impossible for us to list all brands for certain gear, we do offer a wide variety of equipment in our Gear Shop that has been hand picked by our staff of mountaineering experts. Please feel free to call our offices with any gear questions or substitutes. Plastic boots are required for this climb.
Water is either boiled or treated with a water purification solution such as iodine or chlorine.
In town you may enjoy authentic Mexican food, however guides will serve dinner foods like pasta and rice while on the mountain. Breakfasts will consist of nutritious hot or cold cereals.
You may bring power bars, Gu, or similar high-energy foods. Alpine Ascents provides all meals on this climb.
The airport in Mexico City is challenging for pickups due to size and unpredictable amounts of time needed for clearing customs. The easiest option is to take a taxi to your hotel, which will be specified in your confirmation package. Alpine Ascents will happily reimburse this fee.
We are happy to make arrangements for conveniences such as personalized tours, extra hotel rooms, airport pick-ups, or private rooms. Please indicate that you would like a private room on your application and we will contact you with information on single-room supplement costs (for hotels only).
Not at this time.
In the cities and in hotels, telephones are readily available. Our guide carries a satellite phone while on the mountain.
Many books are available on Mexico’s history, please see our Reading List.
You can always call our offices and a guide will contact you — generally about one month before your trip departure. We will also mail a list of other team members to you 30 days prior to departure.
About $500 should easily cover any extra expenses and tips. Most climbers prefer to bring about $1,000 cash along with credit cards.
This climb takes us to different locations so that early departure may be difficult. If a climber needs to leave early, our guides will assist in obtaining the necessary transportation to get you home as quickly as possible.
