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Mount Rainier / Cascades Blog

April 14 Denali Prep Course: A Beautiful Day on Rainier!

AAI Lead Guide Stuart Robertson just checked in from the April 14 Denali Prep course.  After a snowy couple of days, it’s a downright beautiful day on Rainier.   The team is working on snow anchors, fixed line travel, and belaying this morning.   Tomorrow, they are going to practice crevasse rescue.

3/31 Denali Prep: Escaping High Winds

AAI Guides Peter Moore and David Gottlieb are leading their Denali Prep team down to lower elevations, this morning. Forecasts are suggesting that wind speeds will increase tonight from 15 MPH up to 60 MPH! Wisely, the group has opted to use the calmer weather to descent part way, where they will build a final camp for their last night on Mount Rainier. This practice of reading the weather mimics the decision-making process on Denali, where changes in the weather can have a drastic impact on any expedition team’s safety and comfort.


3/31 Denali Prep: Let It Snow!

AAI Guides Peter Moore and David Gottlieb checked in from Camp Muir on Wednesday – excited to share the photo below, taken from inside the Gombu Shelter. As we always say, there’s a reason to be sure doors open inwards in the mountains! The snow you see here was deposited in a single 10-hour overnight period. Peter reports that everyone is doing well, and receiving, “real preparation” for Denali due to the cold, windy, and snowy conditions.


3/17 Denali Prep: A Beautiful Day on Rainier!

AAI Guides Stuart Robertson and Devin Bishop just checked in from the 3/17 Denali Prep.  The team is camped near the base of Panorama Point on Mount Rainier.   As you can see, it’s been beautiful on the mountain.  Yesterday, the team practiced pulling sleds (see below).  Today. they are going to work on snow anchors, belaying, and fixed line travels.  If the weather cooperates, the team is planning on bumping up to Camp Muir tomorrow.


2/17 Mt. Baker Denali Prep Course: All Good

AAI Lead Guide David Gottlieb just checked in from the basecamp of the 2/17 Denali Prep Course.  The team is still camped in the same location and have been making great progress on the course curriculum.  It’s another beautiful but chilly day on the south side of Mount Baker and everyone is doing great!

I LOVED this expedition. I think Alpine Ascents has put together the perfect trip – the mountain itself was hard work, but so worth it. And I felt I could trust Eric completely. Everything has been thought out and planned so well.


  • Staying Hydrated in the Backcountry

    Sometimes the harsh environment encountered in mountaineering can make even the simplest tasks difficult. Staying hydrated is a perfect example – something that is among the most banal of tasks in the lowcountry can become exceedingly complicated in a cold, snowy environment. When all available water is locked up in solid form as snow or […]

  • webbing, anchor, water knot


    The following is the fifth in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches used in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the bowline and ring bend, and hitches like the Klemheist and Prusik! The water knot is a simple knot used to tie two ends of webbing […]

  • Knots and Hitches: The Figure 8 Follow Through

    The following is the fifth in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches we use in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the bowline, ring bend- and hitches like the Klemheist & Prusik! The Figure 8 follow through is a standard knot used for many different purposes […]

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