Mount Rainier / Cascades

Rainer is in Full Swing!

This past week has been a gorgeous one here in the PNW with ample sunny skies across the region. Our guides have been calling in great conditions from all around the state, with lots of people climbing and skiing off the tops of the peak in the Cascades.  As a reminder, if you’re looking for the best weather forecast for Mount Rainier National Park we recommend the UW Rainier Recreational Forecast which is updated twice daily typically around 4am and 4pm.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
With the above average seasonal temperatures the lower part of Mount Rainier (below Camp Muir) is melting out quickly. We are still using double boots at this time because of the soft snow (no snowshoes needed).  As of yesterday climbers can expect the trail to Pebble Creek to be 90% snow covered and we are now using the official summer trail which is wanded and marked. The Muir snowfield is in excellent condition with a well established boot pack up to Camp Muir. Above Muir the route is in great shape and so far this season we have had 4 out of 5 teams reach the summit.  The route is direct going up the Ingraham glacier with the increased warming we do anticipate adjuncts being put into place (planks/ladders) across a few crevasses.  Access to the White River side (Emmons Glacier) remains seasonally closed. The National Park Service currently estimates an opening around Memorial Day weekend. For updates, please refer to National Park Service road status page.

North Cascades
In the North Cascades, not much has changed since our last report and the snowline is still between 4,500-5,000 in NCNP.  On Baker the snowline is a bit lower.  Highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) remains closed due to damage and at this time the Department of Transportation does not have an estimate opening.

We look forward to joining you on a rope team or seeing you on the mountain!

Happy Climbing!

Here we go!

We’ve begun the summer season and our teams are already in the field. Our first Mount Rainier climb reached the summit on April 28, and our first mountaineering course on Mount Baker also successfully summited yesterday. It’s a strong start to the season.

While there has been considerable discussion around a low snow year across the western U.S.—something we certainly observed this winter—our guides are reporting that the upper mountains of Rainier and Baker currently have adequate coverage for this time of year. It remains to be seen how below-average snowfall will impact the season overall, but at present, climbing conditions across the Cascades are favorable.

A stretch of high pressure has brought stable weather and abundant sunshine, contributing to excellent early-season conditions. That said, temperatures remain cold on the upper mountain. Guides report that climbers were wearing full layers during the final hour of the summit push on Rainier, with conditions described as “cold and wintery.”

Looking ahead, the forecast calls for continued sunshine and clear skies through the weekend.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Our guide team spent time earlier this week establishing a climbing route via the Ingraham Direct to the summit. Snow coverage begins at Paradise, and with current cold temperatures, climbers are using double mountaineering boots from the parking lot. Expect continuous snow travel from Paradise to Camp Muir.  Above Camp Muir, the route travels over Cathedral Gap, where conditions are firm in sections. From Ingraham Flats, the route ascends the left side of the Ingraham Glacier, traversing toward Gib Rock and Camp Comfort at approximately 12,900 feet. From Camp Comfort, guides report a straightforward route to the crater rim.  Recent summit teams described the upper mountain as “cold and wintery,” reinforcing the importance of proper layering and cold-weather preparation.  Access to the White River side (Emmons Glacier) remains seasonally closed. The National Park Service currently estimates an opening around Memorial Day weekend. For updates, please refer to National Park Service road status page.

North Cascades
In the North Cascades, we’ve had several mountaineering courses operating on Mount Baker, and our guide teams have been actively exploring the region in recent weeks.  Guides report excellent climbing conditions on the Easton Glacier. The road is currently accessible to within approximately one mile of the trailhead.  On the north side of Mount Baker, road access is currently closed around mile marker 3.5 due to a winter flood event. Climbers are accessing this area by walking the remaining four miles of road.  Within North Cascades National Park, guides are reporting the seasonal snowline to be around 4,500–5,000 feet.

We look forward to joining you on a rope team or seeing you on the mountain!

Happy Climbing!

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

After a stretch of hot and dry weather across the Cascades, the past week has continued to bring rapid seasonal changes to the glaciers. A few days of rain and cooler temperatures have offered a temporary reprieve, but climbers should be prepared for late-summer conditions across all routes. Looking ahead, high pressure and sunshine are forecasted to return for the final weeks of the season.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our last team on Rainier wrapped up their climb on September 4th, officially concluding the 2025 season. In the days that followed, our staff removed the ladders from the upper mountain and secured gear for the winter. It’s always a bittersweet milestone, but we’re grateful to close out the year with another safe and successful season on Rainier. Looking ahead, our 2026 Rainier dates are now live on our website, and we encourage climbers to reserve early as these trips consistently fill quickly.

North Cascades & Kulshan (Mount Baker)

Mount Baker continues to offer excellent climbing conditions, with all of our teams reaching the summit over the past week—a 100% team success rate. A few climbs remain this season on Baker, Shuksan, and throughout the North Cascades, and our guides are excited to finish strong with these final expeditions. Stable weather and good route conditions have made this one of our most successful Cascade seasons to date, with some of the highest climber success rates we’ve ever seen. We’re grateful to all of our climbers and guides for making 2025 such a rewarding season in the Pacific Northwest.

We hope to see you in the mountains!

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

After a stretch of hot and dry weather across the Cascades, the past week has continued to bring rapid seasonal changes to the glaciers. A few days of rain and cooler temperatures have offered a temporary reprieve, but climbers should be prepared for late-summer conditions across all routes. Looking ahead, high pressure and sunshine are forecasted to return for the final weeks of the season.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our Emmons Glacier and Kautz Glacier programs officially wrapped up earlier this month, closing out a strong season on both routes. Each year, these climbs typically conclude by early August, and we’re pleased to have finished with successful summits and safe descents. For those interested in joining these routes in 2026, dates will be posted in mid-September. To stay up to date, we encourage you to join our mailing list at the bottom of this page.

On the Muir Route, conditions continue to evolve quickly in reaction to prolonged warm periods. Guides are recommending trail shoes from the parking lot to the start of the Muir Snowfield, when we’ll transition to moving from dry trail to snow. Over the past week, the Muir snowfield has become icy, and most teams are now using crampons both on the ascent and descent. Please note: if you rented crampons you’ll be picking them up from our Seattle office—not at Camp Muir.

Above Camp Muir, the mountain remains in good climbing condition. Teams have been reaching the summit consistently, with the most recent group summiting yesterday in just over four hours from high camp. Climbers should expect to cross three ladders between high camp and 13,000 ft at this time. Seasonal changes are also visible at the Cathedral Gap, where climbers are now moving directly across exposed glacial ice. This is a normal transition for this time of year, but good crampon technique and attention to footwork are essential. Our route work teams are staged on the mountain and working hard to keep the climbing route in viable condition as we move into the final weeks of the season.

North Cascades & Kulshan (Mount Baker)

Nothing significant has changed on Mount Baker or across the North Cascades in the past week. Following the recent rains, conditions remain favorable on Baker, Shuksan, and peaks throughout Washington Pass. Our teams continue to enjoy excellent climbing and spectacular views across the range on our summit climbs and courses. Our teams recently climbed one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America and one of our personal favorite routes, the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Not to be overlooked, this route is a gem and a true classic for any alpinist.

As always, please check in with our guide staff or gear department before your climb for the most up-to-date equipment recommendations and conditions.

We look forward to seeing many of you in the field as we close out another rewarding summer season!

After an extended stretch of hot and dry weather, this week brought a welcome change with significant rainfall across the North Cascades and even a light dusting of snow on Mount Rainier above Camp Muir. The new precipitation has provided a temporary reset for alpine environments and some relief from wildfire concerns throughout the region. Looking ahead to the weekend, we anticipate high pressure and sunny skies returning to the Pacific Northwest.  

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our final Kautz and Emmons climbs wrapped up their climbs last week with successful summits, marking the end of a strong season on those routes. Each year we typically conclude these programs at end of July and early August, and we’re glad to have finished on such a high note.  If you are interested in climbing this routes in 2026 we will have our dates posted in mid-September. To stay up-to-date on our release schedule, and next season’s dates, you can join our mailing list at the base of this page.

On the Muir route, the path up to Camp Muir remains consistent, and climbers are walking in trail shoes from the parking lot to the Muir Snowfield. Over the past week, each of our teams have been reaching the summit of Mount Rainier with continued success. Guides have reported that the seasonal snow on the backside of Cathedral Gap has fully melted, and climbers are now traveling directly on glacial ice for that stretch. This is a normal seasonal transition and does not currently present any significant challenges, though proper footwork and crampon technique are essential.  As of this morning (August 7th), a crevasse bridge at 12,800 feet collapsed—an anticipated event as the route evolves throughout the season. Our guides are up on the mountain actively working on a reroute to establish a path to the summit. These types of changes are common this time of year, and we have route workers/guides on the mountain specifically for this purpose to help reestablish a climbing route in a short period of time.

North Cascades & Mt Baker (Kulshan) and other Washington Peaks

Elsewhere in the Cascades, teams continue to enjoy excellent climbing conditions on Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, and throughout Washington Pass. While some routes are beginning to show the signs of late-season glacial change, conditions remain favorable for experienced teams. Our recent Forbidden Peak team called in phenomenal climbing conditions and priceless summit views! As always, we recommend checking in with our gear department or guide team before your trip for the most current conditions and recommended equipment.

We’re looking forward to seeing many of you out in the field as we move into the final stretch of the summer season!