Mount Rainier / Cascades

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

After a stretch of hot and dry weather across the Cascades, the past week has continued to bring rapid seasonal changes to the glaciers. A few days of rain and cooler temperatures have offered a temporary reprieve, but climbers should be prepared for late-summer conditions across all routes. Looking ahead, high pressure and sunshine are forecasted to return for the final weeks of the season.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our last team on Rainier wrapped up their climb on September 4th, officially concluding the 2025 season. In the days that followed, our staff removed the ladders from the upper mountain and secured gear for the winter. It’s always a bittersweet milestone, but we’re grateful to close out the year with another safe and successful season on Rainier. Looking ahead, our 2026 Rainier dates are now live on our website, and we encourage climbers to reserve early as these trips consistently fill quickly.

North Cascades & Kulshan (Mount Baker)

Mount Baker continues to offer excellent climbing conditions, with all of our teams reaching the summit over the past week—a 100% team success rate. A few climbs remain this season on Baker, Shuksan, and throughout the North Cascades, and our guides are excited to finish strong with these final expeditions. Stable weather and good route conditions have made this one of our most successful Cascade seasons to date, with some of the highest climber success rates we’ve ever seen. We’re grateful to all of our climbers and guides for making 2025 such a rewarding season in the Pacific Northwest.

We hope to see you in the mountains!

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

After a stretch of hot and dry weather across the Cascades, the past week has continued to bring rapid seasonal changes to the glaciers. A few days of rain and cooler temperatures have offered a temporary reprieve, but climbers should be prepared for late-summer conditions across all routes. Looking ahead, high pressure and sunshine are forecasted to return for the final weeks of the season.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our Emmons Glacier and Kautz Glacier programs officially wrapped up earlier this month, closing out a strong season on both routes. Each year, these climbs typically conclude by early August, and we’re pleased to have finished with successful summits and safe descents. For those interested in joining these routes in 2026, dates will be posted in mid-September. To stay up to date, we encourage you to join our mailing list at the bottom of this page.

On the Muir Route, conditions continue to evolve quickly in reaction to prolonged warm periods. Guides are recommending trail shoes from the parking lot to the start of the Muir Snowfield, when we’ll transition to moving from dry trail to snow. Over the past week, the Muir snowfield has become icy, and most teams are now using crampons both on the ascent and descent. Please note: if you rented crampons you’ll be picking them up from our Seattle office—not at Camp Muir.

Above Camp Muir, the mountain remains in good climbing condition. Teams have been reaching the summit consistently, with the most recent group summiting yesterday in just over four hours from high camp. Climbers should expect to cross three ladders between high camp and 13,000 ft at this time. Seasonal changes are also visible at the Cathedral Gap, where climbers are now moving directly across exposed glacial ice. This is a normal transition for this time of year, but good crampon technique and attention to footwork are essential. Our route work teams are staged on the mountain and working hard to keep the climbing route in viable condition as we move into the final weeks of the season.

North Cascades & Kulshan (Mount Baker)

Nothing significant has changed on Mount Baker or across the North Cascades in the past week. Following the recent rains, conditions remain favorable on Baker, Shuksan, and peaks throughout Washington Pass. Our teams continue to enjoy excellent climbing and spectacular views across the range on our summit climbs and courses. Our teams recently climbed one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America and one of our personal favorite routes, the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Not to be overlooked, this route is a gem and a true classic for any alpinist.

As always, please check in with our guide staff or gear department before your climb for the most up-to-date equipment recommendations and conditions.

We look forward to seeing many of you in the field as we close out another rewarding summer season!

After an extended stretch of hot and dry weather, this week brought a welcome change with significant rainfall across the North Cascades and even a light dusting of snow on Mount Rainier above Camp Muir. The new precipitation has provided a temporary reset for alpine environments and some relief from wildfire concerns throughout the region. Looking ahead to the weekend, we anticipate high pressure and sunny skies returning to the Pacific Northwest.  

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our final Kautz and Emmons climbs wrapped up their climbs last week with successful summits, marking the end of a strong season on those routes. Each year we typically conclude these programs at end of July and early August, and we’re glad to have finished on such a high note.  If you are interested in climbing this routes in 2026 we will have our dates posted in mid-September. To stay up-to-date on our release schedule, and next season’s dates, you can join our mailing list at the base of this page.

On the Muir route, the path up to Camp Muir remains consistent, and climbers are walking in trail shoes from the parking lot to the Muir Snowfield. Over the past week, each of our teams have been reaching the summit of Mount Rainier with continued success. Guides have reported that the seasonal snow on the backside of Cathedral Gap has fully melted, and climbers are now traveling directly on glacial ice for that stretch. This is a normal seasonal transition and does not currently present any significant challenges, though proper footwork and crampon technique are essential.  As of this morning (August 7th), a crevasse bridge at 12,800 feet collapsed—an anticipated event as the route evolves throughout the season. Our guides are up on the mountain actively working on a reroute to establish a path to the summit. These types of changes are common this time of year, and we have route workers/guides on the mountain specifically for this purpose to help reestablish a climbing route in a short period of time.

North Cascades & Mt Baker (Kulshan) and other Washington Peaks

Elsewhere in the Cascades, teams continue to enjoy excellent climbing conditions on Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, and throughout Washington Pass. While some routes are beginning to show the signs of late-season glacial change, conditions remain favorable for experienced teams. Our recent Forbidden Peak team called in phenomenal climbing conditions and priceless summit views! As always, we recommend checking in with our gear department or guide team before your trip for the most current conditions and recommended equipment.

We’re looking forward to seeing many of you out in the field as we move into the final stretch of the summer season!

Hello climbers,

We’ve had a stable week of weather across the North Cascades, with a welcome cooling trend settling in. Forecasts show more of the same on the horizon, with chances of isolated thunderstorms over the Cascade Crest. Overall, conditions remain favorable for climbing and travel in the alpine.
We’ve also been fortunate to experience little to no wildfire smoke this season—climbers continue to enjoy clear skies, expansive views, and cleaner air quality compared to previous years. Looking ahead to next week, cooler temperatures are expected to continue, but with strong sun at higher elevations, it’s still important to stay well-hydrated, wear sunscreen, and plan your schedule to avoid peak heat hours.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
The Disappointment Cleaver route is currently in excellent shape, with guides reporting a direct and efficient line to the summit. Thanks to the recent cooling trend, the route is holding up well, and climbers are successfully reaching the summit daily. With such favorable conditions, teams are making the ascent from high camp to the summit in as little as 4.5 hours. Climbers are beginning their approach from Paradise in trail shoes, then switching to mountain boots at Pebble Creek. From there, a well-established bootpack leads through the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir.

Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier, where crevasses are beginning to open but remain manageable with proper travel techniques. After crossing the Cowlitz, climbers enter Ingraham Flats and encounter a short stretch of firm glacial ice, requiring solid crampon technique and confident footwork. The route then continues over three ladders, starting around 11,200’, before traversing toward the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. The Cleaver itself is currently dry and snow-free, allowing for straightforward movement.

Higher on the route, climbers will cross two additional ladders—one around 12,800’, followed by a final traverse near 13,000’ en route to the Crater Rim. Overall, the route is in prime midsummer condition, and we’re seeing a steady rhythm of teams topping out on Rainier under ideal climbing circumstances.

Emmons & Kautz Routes
Our final 4-day Kautz team made a summit attempt yesterday, turning around at 13,700 feet due to challenging route conditions and deteriorating weather. The team put in a strong effort and demonstrated sound judgment in making the call to descend. Over on the Emmons route, our last 8-day trip of the season is moving up to Camp Schurman today and will be making a summit attempt tomorrow, July 31st. The 2025 season has been one of our most successful in nearly a decade on both the Emmons and Kautz routes, with exceptionally high summit rates. This success is largely attributed to the stretch of stable and favorable weather we’ve experienced across the Pacific Northwest this summer, allowing for excellent climbing conditions and safer travel on the glaciers.

Looking ahead, our 2026 dates for both the Kautz and Emmons routes will be released this September alongside the full Mount Rainier climbing schedule. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter to get the announcement—spots fill quickly, and it’s the best way to make sure you don’t miss out when dates go live. You can sign up for our newsletter at the bottom of our website homepage.

Olympus, Glacier Peak, & Charity Climb Updates
Our recent Mount Olympus team checked in yesterday after successfully tagging the summit of this iconic and remote peak deep in the Olympic Mountains. As one of the most sought-after objectives in the range, standing on the summit of Olympus is no small feat—congrats to the team! In other good news, our recent Glacier Peak charity climb was also a success, with climbers reaching the summit and raising $16,900 for The Sophia Way, a Seattle-based nonprofit that provides shelter and services to women experiencing homelessness. A huge thank you to the climbers and donors who supported this important cause.

Mount Baker (Kulshan)
Our teams continue to have excellent success on Mount Baker, both on summit climbs and instructional courses. Glaciers remain in good shape for late July, with snow coverage still ideal for travel. Most teams are hiking in with trail shoes and transitioning to mountaineering boots at camp.

Conditions across the greater North Cascades remain favorable with teams recently summiting Mount Shuksan and making ascents in Washington Pass.

As always, please review your gear list carefully before your program and contact our office if you have questions about specific items or need recommendations.

Hello climbers,

A recent storm brought much-needed precipitation to the North Cascades, and our guides have reported heavy rainfall on Mount Baker and throughout North Cascades National Park. This welcome weather has refreshed the landscape and helped maintain excellent climbing conditions across the region. Looking back at the season overall, we’ve also been fortunate to experience little to no wildfire smoke—climbers have celebrated clear skies, crisp views, and cleaner air quality than in previous years. Looking ahead, we’re expecting another round of sunny weather across the state, with a slight cooling trend. With continued warm temperatures and strong solar radiation, be sure to pack sunscreen, stay hydrated, and plan your timing around the heat.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
The DC is in excellent condition for late July, with many teams summiting daily. Recent stormy weather has left a light coating of fresh snow and graupel on the upper mountain. Climbers are using trail shoes from Paradise to Pebble Creek. From there, they switch to mountain boots and follow a well-established bootpack through the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir.

Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier, where crevasses are starting to open. Entering Ingraham Flats, climbers encounter a short section of firm glacial ice requiring solid footwork and good crampon technique. From Ingraham Flats, the route crosses three ladders, starting around 11,200’, followed by a traverse toward the Cleaver. The Disappointment Cleaver itself is fully dry and snow-free. Higher up, climbers will cross two additional ladders—one at 12,800’, followed by a traverse around 13,000’ en route to the Crater Rim. 

Emmons & Kautz Routes
We’re gearing up for our final trips of the season on both the Emmons and Kautz routes. Guides from our recent trips report excellent conditions on both. The Emmons route, in particular, has seen little change in recent weeks and remains in solid shape. While large crevasses are present, snow bridges are still holding well. As with the DC route, climbers are encouraged to use trail shoes on the approach to the Inter Glacier.

Kulshan (Mount Baker) & the North Cascades

Our teams continue to find success on Mount Baker (Kulshan), Mount Adams (Klickitat), Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and throughout the greater North Cascades. Across the board, trails are now mostly snow-free up to 5,500–6,000 feet, with ideal snow coverage above for glacier travel. Glaciers across the region remain in great condition for mid-summer climbing, and most teams are hiking in with trail shoes and switching to single mountaineering boots once they reach snowline or treeline.

Bug alert: Mosquitoes and black flies have returned to several lower elevation zones, especially around camps and trailheads below 5,000 feet. Bug spray is highly recommended.

As always, please refer to your gear list when preparing to climb, and consult our office if you have any questions about whether your gear will be a good fit for the conditions ahead.

Happy climbing!