Mount Rainier / Cascades

The Cascades climbing season continues to move forward, with teams enjoying generally favorable weather and good climbing conditions throughout much of the state. Guides are beginning to observe the seasonal changes that come with warmer temperatures and longer days.  The current forecast suggests continued periods of stable weather intermixed with typical spring systems moving through the region. Climbers should continue to prepare for a wide range of mountain conditions and remember that route conditions are changing rapidly as we move deeper into June.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)

Today, our team climbing the Muir route departed Ingraham Flats (high camp) and successfully reached the summit of Mount Rainier via the Ingraham Direct Route with 100% success! Guides reported good travel conditions overall and an enjoyable climb to the summit. Between high camp and 13,200ft there are currently 3 ladder crossings on the route. Based on current observations, we anticipate that our guide team will likely transition to the Disappointment Cleaver Route in the near future. Over on the Emmons route our team is reporting favorable climbing conditions and ample seasonal snow on the Interglacier and Emmons glacier. For both trips we using double boots at this time and still recommending starting from trailhead in boots.

Mount Baker (Komo Kulshan)

Mount Baker continues to provide excellent climbing and skiing conditions. Teams have been active on both the south and north sides of the mountain.  On the south side, climbers and skiers are finding good snow coverage and straightforward access. Our seasonal Baker camp at 6,200ft is fully setup and climbers are enjoying the 2m Dome tent and the pre-setup camp. On the north side, teams continue to utilize the Coleman-Deming Route, though climbers should be prepared for the longer approach due to the road washout that remains in place below the trailhead. Despite the additional walking, guides report that climbing conditions on the upper mountain remain very good and summited via the North Ridge of Baker.

North Cascades

Teams are climbing across areas of the North Cascades National Park including ascents on Shuksan, Washington Pass, and various other peaks including Glacier Peak in the heart of the Cascades. As a reminder access to Washington Pass over highway 20 remains closed. Climbers heading to Washington Pass will need to access this area by driving to Mazama first until the highway is reopened.

Happy Climbing!

Hello climbers,

The past week has brought a mix of classic spring Cascade conditions, with warm temperatures early in the week followed by a return to cooler weather, stronger winds, and periods of precipitation across the range. While snowpack remains below average for this time of year, climbers continue to find good climbing conditions on the major glaciated peaks, and overall mountain access remains excellent. Recent weather systems have helped preserve snow coverage at higher elevations while keeping travel conditions variable from day to day.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)

Our most recent climb reached the summit today via the Ingraham Direct (ID) route. Guides reported generally good travel conditions on the upper mountain and firm snow surfaces. There are currently 3 ladders in place on the Ingraham Direct climbing route. Our guide teams have also been actively working on the Disappointment Cleaver (DC) route. While the Ingraham Direct remains the primary climbing route at this time, we anticipate a transition back to the DC route within the next 7–10 days as crews continue route work and conditions evolve on the upper mountain.

Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)

Mount Baker continues to offer excellent early-season climbing and skiing conditions. Snow coverage remains good on both the Easton and Coleman-Deming routes, and glacier travel remains relatively straightforward for this time of year. Ski teams are still finding quality turns on the upper mountain, though lower elevations are beginning to show signs of seasonal melt-out. Warm periods earlier in the month accelerated snow loss below treeline, but recent cooler temperatures have slowed that trend.

As always, conditions in the Cascades can change rapidly. Our guide staff continues to monitor routes daily, and we will provide additional updates as the season progresses.

Climb safe and enjoy the start of another great Cascade season!

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

The Cascades climbing season is in full swing!  This is our favorite time of year as we have climbers exploring all over the Pacific Northwest.  In addition to our climbs in Cascades we also have several expeditions already deep in the Alaska range making moves up Denali. Internationally, our Everest expedition led by Ben Jones is currently at Camp 3 on their summit rotation and should be summiting in just a few days.  You can follow our Everest expedition updates here.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Mount Rainier has picked up several feet of snow over the past week above 10,000ft. The recent heavy snowfall paused teams from reaching the summit due to the inclement weather and increase in avalanche hazard.  Now looking ahead, the forecast is calling for a wonderful sunny Memorial Day Weekend and we anticipate our guided teams climbing on the upper mountain and reaching the summit. Mount Rainier National Park will be opening access to the White River side of the park this weekend which allows climbing access to the popular Emmons glacier route. Our first Emmons glacier team heads out on Sunday morning for a four day climb.

North Cascades and Beyond

The storm also produced heavy snowfall in the North Cascades with several feet of snow falling above 6,000ft. Our teams on Mount Baker reported good climbing and skiing conditions both on the Easton and Squawk glaciers. Guides said it is good to start at the trailhead with boots as the trail is muddy down low with a transition to snow within 90 minutes. Access to the north side of Mount Baker will continue to be a longer approach this season as the Forest Service does not anticipate repairing the washed out bridge before the fall season. In other parts of the state teams reported phenomenal conditions on Mount Adams and Glacier Peak with good seasonal snow coverage and excellent climbing conditions.

Have a great weekend and see you in the mountains!

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

The Cascades climbing season is now fully underway, and overall climbing conditions across Washington remain quite good for mid-May. Over the past two weeks, our teams have been active on Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, and throughout the Cascades, with guides reporting generally favorable travel conditions, strong route coverage on the upper mountains, and several successful summits.  The major theme unfolding this season continues to be the below-average snowpack across much of the Pacific Northwest. While conditions on the upper elevations of Rainier and Baker remain solid for this time of year, the lower mountain is melting out quickly due to the unusually warm and dry spring pattern we’ve experienced over the past month. Looking ahead, the current forecast calls for a transition away from the extended high-pressure pattern we’ve enjoyed recently. A more active and seasonable weather pattern is expected to return later this week, bringing cooler temperatures along with periods of precipitation and new snow at higher elevations on the volcanoes and throughout the Cascades.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

On Mount Rainier, climbers can now expect mostly snow-covered travel beginning near Paradise, with the trail to Pebble Creek rapidly emerging in places. The Muir Snowfield remains in very good shape with a well-established bootpack to Camp Muir. Above approximately 8,000 feet, snow coverage remains solid for this point in the season, though guides are already noting melt patterns and exposed terrain features appearing earlier than normal below that elevation. Guides on Rainier continue to report cold temperatures and firm conditions during the early morning hours, and a transition to soft snow travel later in the day with warm daytime temperatures. Climbers should be prepared for rapidly changing surface conditions and increasingly soft snow on descents as daytime heating continues.

North Cascades

In the North Cascades, climbers should continue to expect snowline around 5,000 feet depending on aspect and terrain. While many alpine objectives still remain firmly in spring conditions, the warm temperatures have accelerated melt-freeze cycles and route transitions are beginning earlier than what we would typically expect in mid-May. For climbers heading into the mountains over the next couple of weeks, now is the time to be diligent with equipment preparation and layering systems. Despite the warm temperatures in Seattle and low elevations, conditions in the alpine remain very much winter-like, especially during overnight and summit pushes. Goggles, warm gloves, hard shells, and proper cold-weather systems remain essential equipment on all glaciated climbs.

As always, our guides will continue monitoring conditions closely and providing updates from the field as the season progresses.

We look forward to seeing many of you in the mountains soon.

Rainer is in Full Swing!

This past week has been a gorgeous one here in the PNW with ample sunny skies across the region. Our guides have been calling in great conditions from all around the state, with lots of people climbing and skiing off the tops of the peak in the Cascades.  As a reminder, if you’re looking for the best weather forecast for Mount Rainier National Park we recommend the UW Rainier Recreational Forecast which is updated twice daily typically around 4am and 4pm.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
With the above average seasonal temperatures the lower part of Mount Rainier (below Camp Muir) is melting out quickly. We are still using double boots at this time because of the soft snow (no snowshoes needed).  As of yesterday climbers can expect the trail to Pebble Creek to be 90% snow covered and we are now using the official summer trail which is wanded and marked. The Muir snowfield is in excellent condition with a well established boot pack up to Camp Muir. Above Muir the route is in great shape and so far this season we have had 4 out of 5 teams reach the summit.  The route is direct going up the Ingraham glacier with the increased warming we do anticipate adjuncts being put into place (planks/ladders) across a few crevasses.  Access to the White River side (Emmons Glacier) remains seasonally closed. The National Park Service currently estimates an opening around Memorial Day weekend. For updates, please refer to National Park Service road status page.

North Cascades
In the North Cascades, not much has changed since our last report and the snowline is still between 4,500-5,000 in NCNP.  On Baker the snowline is a bit lower.  Highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) remains closed due to damage and at this time the Department of Transportation does not have an estimate opening.

We look forward to joining you on a rope team or seeing you on the mountain!

Happy Climbing!