Mount Rainier / Cascades

Greetings fellow climbers,

We’ve reached the halfway point of July and climbing conditions across the Pacific Northwest remain phenomenal. We have had one of the most stable weather pattern summers in many years. The last few days have been very warm with freezing levels on Mt Rainier over 15,000ft and temperatures in the 90’s in Seattle. However, conditions on the mountain still feel cool, and this morning’s summit team on Rainier reported a cold breeze and down jackets on the upper mountain. The next 10 day forecast shows more of the same and with high pressure aloft climbers can continue to expect sunny skies in the Pacific Northwest.  For those of you climbing Mt Rainier, our favorite place to monitor the forecast is from the University of Washington: https://a.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Each of our Rainier routes begin on dry trail, and we currently recommend that climbers on both the Muir and Emmons routes bring approach or trail shoes. Teams will carry their mountain boots in their packs and make the switch once they reach snow, which is typically 2.5 to 3 hours into the approach.

On the Muir route, the Muir Snowfield is in good condition, with a well-established boot pack leading to Camp. As teams move toward high camp at Ingraham Flats and cross the Cowlitz Glacier, a few crevasses are beginning to open. From Ingraham Flats to the base of the Disappointment Cleaver, glacier travel remains straightforward with a single ladder crossing at the High Crack. Above the Cleaver, climbers should expect a large ascending traverse out toward the Emmons Shoulder, where they will encounter an additional ladder crossing. Once on the Emmons Shoulder, above 13,000 feet, the route trends directly to the summit rim. On our most recent climb, 7 out of 8 climbers reached the summit, with most teams taking between 4 and 5 hours to climb from high camp to summit.

Over on the Emmons route, guides report excellent conditions with a well-traveled climbing track from the trailhead up to Camp Schurman and along the Emmons Glacier itself. Our most recent expedition saw 100% climber success. With only a few more trips scheduled on the Emmons route this season, conditions remain ideal for a successful ascent.

Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades

Alpine Ascents teams are continuing to find success throughout Washington, with recent summits on Mount Adams, Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and in the broader North Cascades. As we move into the heart of July, trails in the Northern Cascades are largely snow-free up to elevations of approximately 5,500 to 6,000 feet. Higher up, snow coverage remains ideal for climbing and glacier travel, and the glaciers themselves are still in great shape. With summer conditions taking hold, most teams are now approaching in trail shoes and transitioning to single mountaineering boots above treeline.

Our teams have noted that mosquitoes are starting to return in some regions, particularly in forested or low-elevation zones below 5,000 feet—bug spray is strongly recommended for those spending time around camp or on approach. Whether you’re new to mountaineering or coming back for another summit, we’re looking forward to seeing you out in the mountains this season.

Hello climbers,

We’re excited to report stellar conditions throughout the region as we kick off July. From Mount Baker to Rainier and deep into the North Cascades, our teams have experienced consistent summit success and excellent travel conditions. On Mount Rainier, May brought a 44% summit rate—well above average for that time of year—followed by a phenomenal June, with 13 of 15 teams reaching the summit. That’s a record-setting 85% success rate for the month! So far this season, over 100 climbers have summited Rainier—and we’re not even halfway through. Meanwhile, on Mount Baker, favorable weather and its lower elevation have contributed to a summit success rate of over 90%. A big kudos to our guide team for their dedication and support, and to our climbers for showing up dialed and ready to climb!

At this point in the season, all our Washington climbs (with the exception of Rainier) have transitioned to single leather mountaineering boots. With the seasonal snow melting rapidly and a warm forecast ahead, we expect the switch to occur on Rainier very soon.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

A huge thank you to our guide and operations staff for their hard work reestablishing high camp on the Muir route. The route is currently in excellent condition, with teams summiting daily. A single ladder has been installed at 12,800 feet, but otherwise the path to the summit remains unchanged. On the Emmons side, conditions are also favorable, and our current 8-day course is making a summit push now. The approach trail to Glacier Basin is snow-free, and the glacier remains in great shape. Despite warm daytime temperatures, we continue to recommend double boots for all Rainier climbs due to cold overnight temperatures and exposure on the upper mountain. Please follow the posted gear list, and give our gear department a call to learn the latest information on which boot you’ll need!

Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades

Our teams are getting busy! We rang in July with successful trips on Mount Adams, Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and throughout the North Cascades. Low-elevation trails are now largely snow-free, while mid- to high-elevation terrain above 5,000 feet continues to offer ample snow for travel and climbing. Glaciers across these objectives are in good condition. With the transition to summer conditions, most teams are utilizing trail shoes for the approach and single mountaineering boots for higher alpine travel.

Whether you’re just starting your climbing journey or aiming to add another summit to the list, we’re looking forward to seeing you out there this season!

Hello climbers,

Summer is officially in full swing in the Cascades, and conditions have remained stellar throughout the region. We’ve seen consistent summit success across Washington—from Mount Baker to Rainier and beyond—and guides are reporting some of the best early-season conditions in years. In Alaska, we still have one Denali team remaining on the mountain. You can follow their progress via our Denali Cybercast Page. All other teams have wrapped up successful expeditions, and we’re proud to share that our 2026 Denali expedition dates are now live on the website. It’s never too early to start planning!

Tahoma (Mount Rainier) Conditions

Our Rainier teams have been enjoying excellent climbing conditions, and across the three routes we guide teams are consistently reaching the summit. We’re excited to announce that over the past week we have re-established high camp at Ingraham Flats. Big thanks to our guide staff for putting in the hard work building high camp and getting it setup. This will allow for improved summit pushes basing out of the 11,200 high camp on the Muir Route.

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route: The route remains in great shape. Our Director and Field Manager made a trip to the Alpine Ascents Satellite Office on Rainier and over the past three days have performed route reconnaissance and work to establish and reinforce the route. Climbers are still using mountain boots from the parking lot at the vast majority of the trail is snowy to Muir. From Muir the route to the summit is well established and in good shape. The Cleaver itself is largely snow-free, and a well-defined bootpack continues to the summit. At this time there are no ladders in place on the route.
Emmons-Winthrop: Conditions are excellent, with smooth travel over the Inter Glacier and solid coverage above Camp Schurman. Our latest Emmons climb enjoyed a wonderful summit day just yesterday.
Kautz Route: Ice pitches are holding up beautifully, and the glacier sections remain direct and efficient. Our latest Kautz team summited the route 2 days ago, and guides were happy to report excellent conditions all the way up. This team was apart of a 10 day course with the final 4 days being on the Kautz climb after 6 days of training on Mt Baker.

Despite warm daytime temperatures, double boots are still recommended on all routes due to overnight cold and high-elevation exposure. Warmer temperatures are on the forecast, but winds on the upper mountain will continue to bring in the cold. We urge climbers to always be prepared with the proper equipment.

Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades

Mount Baker continues to shine. Both north and south route teams are seeing regular summit success, with firm morning snow, manageable crevasse exposure, and great coverage on the approach. Lower trail sections are now mostly snow-free below ~5,000feet, making for dry approaches and efficient travel. On the North Side, high camp now has flowing water access, a welcome development as summer continues.

Mount Adams also remains in great shape. Our summit climbs and ski descents have been enjoying all the mountain has to offer, including ski descents from the summit slopes—truly a memorable way to wrap up a climb.

Across the North Cascades, the transition from snow to rock season is well underway. Alpine rock objectives are opening up quickly, and approaches now often include both snow travel and trail hiking. One of our Washington Pass programs is a 4-day Alpine Rock course, perfect for Matterhorn training. We’re wishing our graduates luck on their next objectives!

As always, early starts, good route planning, and proper layering are key to safe and successful outings. Please don’t hesitate to contact our office if you’re preparing for an upcoming trip or want to talk conditions.

We look forward to seeing you in the mountains!

Hello climbers,

We’ve had an incredible stretch of weather in the Cascades over the past 10 days, allowing teams to summit peaks across the region. In the far north, we’re thrilled to report that three of our expeditions have reached the summit of Denali— huge congratulations to all climbers! Two more teams remain on the mountain, and you can follow their progress on our Denali Cybercast page. Wish them luck!

Across Washington, Alpine Ascents teams have been climbing Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak, and other peaks throughout the North Cascades. This unusually stable stretch of sun—especially for what locals affectionately call “Junuary”—has made for exceptional travel conditions. Lower elevation trails are becoming increasingly snow-free, with just a few lingering patches below 4,500 feet. Above 6,000 feet, however, a deep snowpack remains in place. Mt. Baker camp still sits on over three meters of snow. On Rainier, recent snowmelt has made the first part of the approach a mix of trail and snow. Looking ahead, we’re expecting a slight cooling trend this weekend, along with the potential for the first significant storm in weeks. Climbers joining us should review their gear list carefully—guides will adjust plans based on the forecast, but being prepared is key.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier) Conditions

Disappointment Cleaver (Muir Route): Conditions on the Muir route have been excellent in recent weeks. Teams now use the summer trail through Pan Point and Pebble Creek before transitioning to the Muir Snowfield, which remains firm and direct. The Disappointment Cleaver is climbing well, with about 80% of the route now snow-free and the remainder melting rapidly. Above 12,500 feet, a well-established bootpack leads the way to the summit. We’re still spending two nights at Camp Muir while we await final approval from the National Park Service to reestablish our high camp at Ingraham Flats.

Emmons-Winthrop Route: Guides report excellent travel conditions over on the Emmons. The Inter Glacier provides smooth access to Camp Schurman, and the Emmons Glacier is climbing well above that. Our most recent Emmons team saw 100% summit success, and our current 8-Day Emmons Course is progressing steadily toward a summit attempt in the coming days.

Kautz Route: Conditions remain outstanding. Our most recent Kautz team also achieved 100% summit success. The ice pitches are in good shape, and the glacier sections are straightforward—making for a rewarding and enjoyable climb.

Despite the recent warmth, double boots are still recommended on all Rainier routes. Cold temps at high elevation and during early-morning summit pushes still require warm, supportive footwear for both safety and comfort.

Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades

Mount Baker continues to provide excellent climbing conditions on both its northern and southern routes. Teams are reaching the summit regularly, taking advantage of firm snow in the early hours, low crevasse risk, and consistent snow coverage. With snow levels now mostly melted below 4,500 feet, many climbers are using trail runners or lightweight hiking shoes for the approach to camp, both in the North Cascades and on Baker. Guides have been genuinely impressed with the remarkably stable weather pattern we’ve experienced lately.

The rapid snowmelt, fueled by recent warm temperatures, is improving access to trailheads—vehicles can now get within a short distance of the start. On the North Side of Baker, flowing water is now accessible at high camp, which has made daily camp routines more convenient. On the South Side, snowmelt is still required for drinking water, so climbers should plan accordingly.

Mount Adams has also seen strong activity, with excellent travel conditions reported and several teams enjoying ski descents straight from the summit. Throughout the North Cascades, a wide range of alpine rock and glaciated objectives are becoming climbable. With the snowline continuing to move upslope, expect approaches that transition from early morning snow travel to dry trails as the day progresses.

Happy Climbing!

The past week has brought a stretch of high pressure across the Pacific Northwest, delivering phenomenal weather and excellent climbing conditions throughout the Cascades. Our teams have taken full advantage of the sunshine, with successful ascents on Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, Mount Adams, and numerous peaks in the North Cascades. Warm temperatures are accelerating snowmelt at lower elevations, so travel approaches are becoming more straightforward.   Many of the low elevation trails in the North Cascades and Mt Rainier still have seasonal snow and sections that are very muddy.

Mount Rainier – Climbing conditions on Mount Rainier are currently excellent across all major routes. On the Muir Route, teams have transitioned to the summer trail leading up to Pan Point and Pebble Creek. The Muir Snowfield is in great shape, offering direct, firm, and efficient travel. Higher on the route, the Disappointment Cleaver is climbing very well—about 50% of it is now snow-free as of yesterday, and the rest is melting quickly. Despite the ongoing melt, the Cleaver remains in solid condition, and the route above 12,500 feet is well established, with a consistent, climber-friendly track to the summit. Over on the Emmons-Winthrop Route, guides are reporting excellent travel conditions. The Inter Glacier provides smooth access up to Camp Schurman, and the upper mountain via the Emmons Glacier is holding up beautifully. A recent Alpine Ascents team had six climbers reach the summit in calm, stable weather—an encouraging sign for those headed that way in the coming weeks. The Kautz Route is also climbing phenomenally well. Our most recent team had 100% climber success two days ago. The ice pitches are in good condition, and the glacier travel sections are straightforward, making for a highly enjoyable ascent overall.  Despite the warm temperatures during the day, double boots are still recommended for all Rainier routes. Early morning summit pushes and time spent at high elevations continue to demand warm, protective footwear for safety and comfort.

Mount Baker, Mount Adams & the North Cascades

Mount Baker continues to deliver outstanding conditions on both the North and South side routes. Daily summits are being reported, with consistent snow coverage, minimal crevasse hazards, and firm travel during the early morning hours. The seasonal snowpack is receding quickly with the recent heat, and access is steadily improving—you can now nearly drive all the way to the trailhead. On the North Side of the mountain, running water is now available at high camp, which has made water access more convenient for teams. On the South Side, however, there is still no running water at camp, so climbers should plan to melt snow as part of their water management strategy.  Mount Adams has also been a highlight this past week. Guides have reported excellent climbing conditions and recent ski descents directly from the summit—making for both an enjoyable ascent and a rewarding ride down. Across the broader North Cascades, a variety of alpine rock and glacier climbs are beginning to come into season. With snowlines receding rapidly, climbers should expect a mix of terrain—approaches may start on snow in the morning and finish on dry trail by the afternoon.