Don Wargowsky
Don began climbing on the East Coast more than two decades ago and has been guiding professionally for over 15 years. Since joining Alpine Ascents in 2017, he has led expeditions on Denali, Everest, Manaslu, and in Antarctica, bringing deep experience on snow, rock, and ice to every climb. His career highlights include first ascents on Newfoundland rock and the rare achievement of climbing a floating iceberg, alongside extensive guiding seasons across over 12 countries. Don is also known for his unique story of climbing Baruntse with an unlikely companion, making his 2018 expedition the first recorded dog ascent of a 7,000 m Himalayan peak.
Holding a master’s degree in education, Don is as passionate about teaching the finer details as he is about expedition life. Whether instructing our winter avalanche courses in Washington State, or leading high-altitude expeditions across the globe, he is known for his steady leadership, thoughtful instruction, and dedication to helping climbers achieve their goals, whether it’s their first day in crampons on Mount Baker, or on the fixed lines of Denali. Today, he spends most of his guiding seasons in Washington, Alaska, Nepal, and Antarctica.
Take 5 with the Guide
If you could only take one album on an expedition?
Megalithic Symphony – AWOLNATION
Favorite movie?
Fight club
If you could be stuck with anyone (past or present) at base camp for a week?
my dog Maeve
What was your first mountain?
The graduation climb of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh’s mountaineering school – Mount Washington in March of 2006
Most people don’t know that…
I am one of a dozen people who have climbed a floating iceberg
Significant Ascents
Mount Everest, Nepal (to 8000m without oxygen)
Manaslu, Nepal (without oxygen)
Baruntse, Nepal
Ama Dablam, Nepal
Mera Peak, Nepal
Denali, USA (8+ expeditions)
Island Peak, Nepal (2 expeditions)
Kala Patthar, Nepal
Pico De Orizaba, Mexico
Chukkung Ri, Nepal
Everest Base Camp trek, Nepal
Iztaccihuatl, Mexico
Mount Vinson, Antarctica (5 climbs)
La Malinche, Mexico (2 climbs)
Mount Whitney, USA (3 climbs, 2 in winter)
Mount Rainier, USA (65 climbs via 5 routes, 1 in winter)
Mount Shasta, USA
Mount Russel, USA (winter ascent)
Grand Teton, USA (2 climbs via 2 routes)
Mount Athabasca, Canada
Mount Baker, USA (38 climbs via 4 routes)
Glacier Peak, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Shuksan, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Adams, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Olympus, USA
Half Dome, USA via Regular Northwest Face
Lost Arrow Spire, USA via Lost Arrow Tip
Mount Washington, USA (7 winter climbs via 5 routes)
Katahdin, USA (2 winter climbs via 2 routes)
Mount Colden, USA (2 winter climbs)
Northern Patagonia, Chile
First ascents on rock and Icebergs, Canada (2 expeditions)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder and CPR certified
Leave No Trace Trainer
PCGI Single Pitch Guide
AMGA Alpine Guide Course
AIARE Level 2
AIARE Pro 1
AIARE Instructor Training Course
AIARE Course Leader Training
Awards & Recognition
2019 and 2024 Denali Pro Pin
2016 AAC Live Your Dream Grant
2011 & 2017 ECP Mike Brown Expedition Grant
Yes, I very much enjoyed the expedition. We enjoyed a fantastic weather that made everything easy. I would say this trip was fantastic. I thoroughly enjoyed it.
