Don Wargowsky

Don Wargowsky

Senior Guide: Washington, Alaska, International

Don started climbing on the east coast 23 years ago, and has been guiding for the last 15 years. He is proficient on technical routes on snow, rock, and ice, but spends most of his time guiding the world’s largest peaks. He has first ascents on rock in Newfoundland, and is one of only a handful of people who have climbed a floating iceberg. He led expeditions to the summits of Mt. Everest and Manaslu and has spent the last several winters guiding mountains in Antarctica. Don has a master’s degree in education. He enjoys teaching climbing, avalanche courses, and helping clients reach their goals. He has led trips in 12 countries, but currently spends most of his time in Washington, Antarctica, and Nepal.

Take 5 with the Guide

If you could only take one album on an expedition?
Megalithic Symphony – AWOLNATION

Favorite movie?
Fight club

If you could be stuck with anyone (past or present) at base camp for a week?
my dog Maeve

What was your first mountain?
The graduation climb of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh’s mountaineering school – Mount Washington in March of 2006

Most people don’t know that…
I am one of a dozen people who have climbed a floating iceberg

Significant Ascents

Mount Everest, Nepal (to 8000m without oxygen)
Manaslu, Nepal (without oxygen)
Baruntse, Nepal
Ama Dablam, Nepal
Mera Peak, Nepal
Denali, USA (8 expeditions)
Island Peak, Nepal (2 expeditions)
Kala Patthar, Nepal
Pico De Orizaba, Mexico
Chukkung Ri, Nepal
Everest Base Camp trek, Nepal
Iztaccihuatl, Mexico
Mount Vinson, Antarctica (5 climbs)
La Malinche, Mexico (2 climbs)
Mount Whitney, USA (3 climbs, 2 in winter)
Mount Rainier, USA (65 climbs via 5 routes, 1 in winter)
Mount Shasta, USA
Mount Russel, USA (winter ascent)
Grand Teton, USA (2 climbs via 2 routes)
Mount Athabasca, Canada
Mount Baker, USA (38 climbs via 4 routes)
Glacier Peak, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Shuksan, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Adams, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Olympus, USA
Half Dome, USA via Regular Northwest Face
Lost Arrow Spire, USA via Lost Arrow Tip
Mount Washington, USA (7 winter climbs via 5 routes)
Katahdin, USA (2 winter climbs via 2 routes)
Mount Colden, USA (2 winter climbs)
Northern Patagonia, Chile
First ascents on rock and Icebergs, Canada (2 expeditions)

Certifications

Wilderness First Responder and CPR certified
Leave No Trace Trainer
PCGI Single Pitch Guide
AMGA Alpine Guide Course
AIARE Level 2
AIARE Pro 1
AIARE Instructor Training Course
AIARE Course Leader Training

Awards & Recognition

2019 and 2024 Denali Pro Pin
2016 AAC Live Your Dream Grant
2011 & 2017 ECP Mike Brown Expedition Grant

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Cascades Conditions Report 6/25/2025

    Hello climbers, Summer is officially in full swing in the Cascades, and conditions have remained stellar throughout the region. We’ve seen consistent summit success across Washington—from Mount Baker to Rainier and beyond—and guides are reporting some of the best early-season conditions in years. In Alaska, we still have one Denali team remaining on the mountain. […]

  • Cascades Conditions Report 6/17/2025

    Hello climbers, We’ve had an incredible stretch of weather in the Cascades over the past 10 days, allowing teams to summit peaks across the region. In the far north, we’re thrilled to report that three of our expeditions have reached the summit of Denali— huge congratulations to all climbers! Two more teams remain on the […]

  • Vinson Webinar

    Summer is in full swing, but it’s never too early to start planning (and getting stoked) for a winter expedition. Mount Vinson—highest peak on the frozen continent and one of the famed Seven Summits—is a remote, high-altitude challenge like no other. With over 15 years of 100% team summit success, Alpine Ascents is proud to […]

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