Don Wargowsky
Don started climbing on the east coast over 20 years ago, and has been guiding for the last 12 years. He is proficient on technical routes on snow, rock, and ice, but spends most of his time guiding snowy routes on some of the world’s largest peaks. Don has first ascents on rock in Newfoundland, and he is one of only a handful of people who have climbed a floating iceberg. A memorable moment in Don’s career was when a stray dog joined Don’s expedition and summited Baruntse with the team, making her the first and only dog to have ever climbed a 7,000 meter peak. In 2021, Don lead an expedition to the summit of Mt. Everest.
Don has a master’s degree in education. He enjoys teaching climbing and avalanche courses, and helping clients reach their goals. He has lead trips in 10 countries, but currently spends most of his time in Washington, Alaska, and Nepal. When he is not in the field, Don enjoys traveling with his wife and their rescue dog, rafting the world’s most challenging rivers, and renovating his home on the Olympic Peninsula.
Take 5 with the Guide
If you could only take one album on an expedition?
Megalithic Symphony – AWOLNATION
Favorite movie?
Fight club
If you could be stuck with anyone (past or present) at base camp for a week?
my dog Maeve
What was your first mountain?
The graduation climb of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh’s mountaineering school – Mount Washington in March of 2006
Most people don’t know that…
I am one of a dozen people who have climbed a floating iceberg
Significant Ascents
Mount Everest, Nepal (to 8000m without oxygen)
Manaslu, Nepal (without oxygen)
Baruntse, Nepal
Ama Dablam, Nepal
Mera Peak, Nepal
Denali, USA (6 expeditions)
Island Peak, Nepal (2 expeditions)
Kala Patthar, Nepal
Chukkung Ri, Nepal
Everest Base Camp trek, Nepal
Iztaccihuatl, Mexico
La Malinche, Mexico (2 climbs)
Mount Whitney, USA (3 climbs, 2 in winter)
Mount Rainier, USA (40 climbs via 4 routes, 1 in winter)
Mount Shasta, USA
Mount Russel, USA (winter ascent)
Grand Teton, USA (2 climbs via 2 routes)
Mount Athabasca, Canada
Mount Baker, USA (18 climbs via 2 routes)
Glacier Peak, USA
Mount Shuksan, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Adams, USA (2 climbs)
Mount Olympus, USA
Half Dome, USA via Regular Northwest Face
Lost Arrow Spire, USA via Lost Arrow Tip
Mount Washington, USA (7 winter climbs via 5 routes)
Katahdin, USA (2 winter climbs via 2 routes)
Mount Colden, USA (2 winter climbs)
Northern Patagonia, Chile
First ascents on rock and Icebergs, Canada (2 expeditions)
Certifications
Wilderness First Responder/CPR
Leave No Trace Trainer
PCGI Single Pitch Guide
AIARE Level 2
AIARE Pro 1
AIARE Instructor Training Course
AIARE Course Leader Training
Awards & Recognition
2019 Denali Pro Pin
2016 AAC Live Your Dream Grant
2011 & 2017 ECP Mike Brown Expedition Grant
Yes – this was an incredible trip and the quality was as good as it gets. The guides were amazing and I really enjoyed the time spent out there.
