Hello climbers,
We’ve had an incredible stretch of weather in the Cascades over the past 10 days, allowing teams to summit peaks across the region. In the far north, we’re thrilled to report that three of our expeditions have reached the summit of Denali— huge congratulations to all climbers! Two more teams remain on the mountain, and you can follow their progress on our Denali Cybercast page. Wish them luck!
Across Washington, Alpine Ascents teams have been climbing Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak, and other peaks throughout the North Cascades. This unusually stable stretch of sun—especially for what locals affectionately call “Junuary”—has made for exceptional travel conditions. Lower elevation trails are becoming increasingly snow-free, with just a few lingering patches below 4,500 feet. Above 6,000 feet, however, a deep snowpack remains in place. Mt. Baker camp still sits on over three meters of snow. On Rainier, recent snowmelt has made the first part of the approach a mix of trail and snow. Looking ahead, we’re expecting a slight cooling trend this weekend, along with the potential for the first significant storm in weeks. Climbers joining us should review their gear list carefully—guides will adjust plans based on the forecast, but being prepared is key.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier) Conditions
Disappointment Cleaver (Muir Route): Conditions on the Muir route have been excellent in recent weeks. Teams now use the summer trail through Pan Point and Pebble Creek before transitioning to the Muir Snowfield, which remains firm and direct. The Disappointment Cleaver is climbing well, with about 80% of the route now snow-free and the remainder melting rapidly. Above 12,500 feet, a well-established bootpack leads the way to the summit. We’re still spending two nights at Camp Muir while we await final approval from the National Park Service to reestablish our high camp at Ingraham Flats.
Emmons-Winthrop Route: Guides report excellent travel conditions over on the Emmons. The Inter Glacier provides smooth access to Camp Schurman, and the Emmons Glacier is climbing well above that. Our most recent Emmons team saw 100% summit success, and our current 8-Day Emmons Course is progressing steadily toward a summit attempt in the coming days.
Kautz Route: Conditions remain outstanding. Our most recent Kautz team also achieved 100% summit success. The ice pitches are in good shape, and the glacier sections are straightforward—making for a rewarding and enjoyable climb.
Despite the recent warmth, double boots are still recommended on all Rainier routes. Cold temps at high elevation and during early-morning summit pushes still require warm, supportive footwear for both safety and comfort.
Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades
Mount Baker continues to provide excellent climbing conditions on both its northern and southern routes. Teams are reaching the summit regularly, taking advantage of firm snow in the early hours, low crevasse risk, and consistent snow coverage. With snow levels now mostly melted below 4,500 feet, many climbers are using trail runners or lightweight hiking shoes for the approach to camp, both in the North Cascades and on Baker. Guides have been genuinely impressed with the remarkably stable weather pattern we’ve experienced lately.
The rapid snowmelt, fueled by recent warm temperatures, is improving access to trailheads—vehicles can now get within a short distance of the start. On the North Side of Baker, flowing water is now accessible at high camp, which has made daily camp routines more convenient. On the South Side, snowmelt is still required for drinking water, so climbers should plan accordingly.
Mount Adams has also seen strong activity, with excellent travel conditions reported and several teams enjoying ski descents straight from the summit. Throughout the North Cascades, a wide range of alpine rock and glaciated objectives are becoming climbable. With the snowline continuing to move upslope, expect approaches that transition from early morning snow travel to dry trails as the day progresses.
Happy Climbing!
