“Four Wheeled Tricycle” acclimatize and get ready for their summit push
FWT made a successful trip up the fixed lines today to the 16 ridge, for acclimatization. We’ll rest on Sunday, then look for the best window to get up to high camp next week.
“Last Seconders” get some final prep in before a summit attempt
The team decided to rest based on our obs and forecasting. It was hard for some members to watch the other teams set out. A huge lenticular formed on the peak above engulfing the Autobahn, the steep trial out of camp. The tiny climbers disappeared into the fog and wind. We did active rest and toured the camp. We practiced putting on our parkas and mittens goggles and mask. Prepare for the worst. Hope for the best.
We ate a huge portion of spam and fried rice before we tucked into bed early. Tomorrow was the last day of our present weather window for summit. We would climb.
“Drag Queens” summit and safely return to camp!
Hey everyone. This is Stephen checking in with the Drag Queens. We are all safely back down from the summit! We had actually really nice day up there and the best I’ve had, it was quite warm and sunny and clear. so good news and very little to no wind. So yeah walked all the way up and then just got back down maybe like an hour ago and are starting to think about dinner. And tomorrow, we’ll start our Voyage down the Mountain. And yes, it’s real short on time so we’ll probably be trying to roll all the way to base camp after after sleeping in tomorrow morning. But yeah, it was great and we had an awesome day. Our patience was rewarded.
“Four Wheeled Tricycle” establishes at camp 14
FWT is now established at 14 camp and doing well. In the next couple of days, we’ll begin preparations for a move to High Camp.
“Last Seconders” haul to 17 camp
Team Last Second got up in the cold earlier and dig out our tent anchors. We had breakfast and left our cozy camp at 14. We shouldered heavy packs and made our way up the fixed lines. One last time. We recovered our cache at 16. There was spitting and cursing as heavy packs got heavier. We crossed the west buttress. It was a knife edge of rock and snow and some of the most beautiful terrain of a beautiful climb. It was blue skies all around with the immensity of the glaciers and surrounding peaks made clear by the tiny camp 14 far below. We got into 17 camp and moved into our new camp home down the next few days.
Alpine Ascents’ reputation is top notch within the industry. I appreciate the high quality guides provided on my climbs so far. They always seem to be the yardstick that other services measure their guides to.
