Mount Rainier / Cascades

Hello climbers,

We’ve had a stable week of weather across the North Cascades, with a welcome cooling trend settling in. Forecasts show more of the same on the horizon, with chances of isolated thunderstorms over the Cascade Crest. Overall, conditions remain favorable for climbing and travel in the alpine.
We’ve also been fortunate to experience little to no wildfire smoke this season—climbers continue to enjoy clear skies, expansive views, and cleaner air quality compared to previous years. Looking ahead to next week, cooler temperatures are expected to continue, but with strong sun at higher elevations, it’s still important to stay well-hydrated, wear sunscreen, and plan your schedule to avoid peak heat hours.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
The Disappointment Cleaver route is currently in excellent shape, with guides reporting a direct and efficient line to the summit. Thanks to the recent cooling trend, the route is holding up well, and climbers are successfully reaching the summit daily. With such favorable conditions, teams are making the ascent from high camp to the summit in as little as 4.5 hours. Climbers are beginning their approach from Paradise in trail shoes, then switching to mountain boots at Pebble Creek. From there, a well-established bootpack leads through the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir.

Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier, where crevasses are beginning to open but remain manageable with proper travel techniques. After crossing the Cowlitz, climbers enter Ingraham Flats and encounter a short stretch of firm glacial ice, requiring solid crampon technique and confident footwork. The route then continues over three ladders, starting around 11,200’, before traversing toward the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. The Cleaver itself is currently dry and snow-free, allowing for straightforward movement.

Higher on the route, climbers will cross two additional ladders—one around 12,800’, followed by a final traverse near 13,000’ en route to the Crater Rim. Overall, the route is in prime midsummer condition, and we’re seeing a steady rhythm of teams topping out on Rainier under ideal climbing circumstances.

Emmons & Kautz Routes
Our final 4-day Kautz team made a summit attempt yesterday, turning around at 13,700 feet due to challenging route conditions and deteriorating weather. The team put in a strong effort and demonstrated sound judgment in making the call to descend. Over on the Emmons route, our last 8-day trip of the season is moving up to Camp Schurman today and will be making a summit attempt tomorrow, July 31st. The 2025 season has been one of our most successful in nearly a decade on both the Emmons and Kautz routes, with exceptionally high summit rates. This success is largely attributed to the stretch of stable and favorable weather we’ve experienced across the Pacific Northwest this summer, allowing for excellent climbing conditions and safer travel on the glaciers.

Looking ahead, our 2026 dates for both the Kautz and Emmons routes will be released this September alongside the full Mount Rainier climbing schedule. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter to get the announcement—spots fill quickly, and it’s the best way to make sure you don’t miss out when dates go live. You can sign up for our newsletter at the bottom of our website homepage.

Olympus, Glacier Peak, & Charity Climb Updates
Our recent Mount Olympus team checked in yesterday after successfully tagging the summit of this iconic and remote peak deep in the Olympic Mountains. As one of the most sought-after objectives in the range, standing on the summit of Olympus is no small feat—congrats to the team! In other good news, our recent Glacier Peak charity climb was also a success, with climbers reaching the summit and raising $16,900 for The Sophia Way, a Seattle-based nonprofit that provides shelter and services to women experiencing homelessness. A huge thank you to the climbers and donors who supported this important cause.

Mount Baker (Kulshan)
Our teams continue to have excellent success on Mount Baker, both on summit climbs and instructional courses. Glaciers remain in good shape for late July, with snow coverage still ideal for travel. Most teams are hiking in with trail shoes and transitioning to mountaineering boots at camp.

Conditions across the greater North Cascades remain favorable with teams recently summiting Mount Shuksan and making ascents in Washington Pass.

As always, please review your gear list carefully before your program and contact our office if you have questions about specific items or need recommendations.

Hello climbers,

A recent storm brought much-needed precipitation to the North Cascades, and our guides have reported heavy rainfall on Mount Baker and throughout North Cascades National Park. This welcome weather has refreshed the landscape and helped maintain excellent climbing conditions across the region. Looking back at the season overall, we’ve also been fortunate to experience little to no wildfire smoke—climbers have celebrated clear skies, crisp views, and cleaner air quality than in previous years. Looking ahead, we’re expecting another round of sunny weather across the state, with a slight cooling trend. With continued warm temperatures and strong solar radiation, be sure to pack sunscreen, stay hydrated, and plan your timing around the heat.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
The DC is in excellent condition for late July, with many teams summiting daily. Recent stormy weather has left a light coating of fresh snow and graupel on the upper mountain. Climbers are using trail shoes from Paradise to Pebble Creek. From there, they switch to mountain boots and follow a well-established bootpack through the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir.

Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier, where crevasses are starting to open. Entering Ingraham Flats, climbers encounter a short section of firm glacial ice requiring solid footwork and good crampon technique. From Ingraham Flats, the route crosses three ladders, starting around 11,200’, followed by a traverse toward the Cleaver. The Disappointment Cleaver itself is fully dry and snow-free. Higher up, climbers will cross two additional ladders—one at 12,800’, followed by a traverse around 13,000’ en route to the Crater Rim. 

Emmons & Kautz Routes
We’re gearing up for our final trips of the season on both the Emmons and Kautz routes. Guides from our recent trips report excellent conditions on both. The Emmons route, in particular, has seen little change in recent weeks and remains in solid shape. While large crevasses are present, snow bridges are still holding well. As with the DC route, climbers are encouraged to use trail shoes on the approach to the Inter Glacier.

Kulshan (Mount Baker) & the North Cascades

Our teams continue to find success on Mount Baker (Kulshan), Mount Adams (Klickitat), Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and throughout the greater North Cascades. Across the board, trails are now mostly snow-free up to 5,500–6,000 feet, with ideal snow coverage above for glacier travel. Glaciers across the region remain in great condition for mid-summer climbing, and most teams are hiking in with trail shoes and switching to single mountaineering boots once they reach snowline or treeline.

Bug alert: Mosquitoes and black flies have returned to several lower elevation zones, especially around camps and trailheads below 5,000 feet. Bug spray is highly recommended.

As always, please refer to your gear list when preparing to climb, and consult our office if you have any questions about whether your gear will be a good fit for the conditions ahead.

Happy climbing!

Greetings fellow climbers,

We’ve reached the halfway point of July and climbing conditions across the Pacific Northwest remain phenomenal. We have had one of the most stable weather pattern summers in many years. The last few days have been very warm with freezing levels on Mt Rainier over 15,000ft and temperatures in the 90’s in Seattle. However, conditions on the mountain still feel cool, and this morning’s summit team on Rainier reported a cold breeze and down jackets on the upper mountain. The next 10 day forecast shows more of the same and with high pressure aloft climbers can continue to expect sunny skies in the Pacific Northwest.  For those of you climbing Mt Rainier, our favorite place to monitor the forecast is from the University of Washington: https://a.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Each of our Rainier routes begin on dry trail, and we currently recommend that climbers on both the Muir and Emmons routes bring approach or trail shoes. Teams will carry their mountain boots in their packs and make the switch once they reach snow, which is typically 2.5 to 3 hours into the approach.

On the Muir route, the Muir Snowfield is in good condition, with a well-established boot pack leading to Camp. As teams move toward high camp at Ingraham Flats and cross the Cowlitz Glacier, a few crevasses are beginning to open. From Ingraham Flats to the base of the Disappointment Cleaver, glacier travel remains straightforward with a single ladder crossing at the High Crack. Above the Cleaver, climbers should expect a large ascending traverse out toward the Emmons Shoulder, where they will encounter an additional ladder crossing. Once on the Emmons Shoulder, above 13,000 feet, the route trends directly to the summit rim. On our most recent climb, 7 out of 8 climbers reached the summit, with most teams taking between 4 and 5 hours to climb from high camp to summit.

Over on the Emmons route, guides report excellent conditions with a well-traveled climbing track from the trailhead up to Camp Schurman and along the Emmons Glacier itself. Our most recent expedition saw 100% climber success. With only a few more trips scheduled on the Emmons route this season, conditions remain ideal for a successful ascent.

Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades

Alpine Ascents teams are continuing to find success throughout Washington, with recent summits on Mount Adams, Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and in the broader North Cascades. As we move into the heart of July, trails in the Northern Cascades are largely snow-free up to elevations of approximately 5,500 to 6,000 feet. Higher up, snow coverage remains ideal for climbing and glacier travel, and the glaciers themselves are still in great shape. With summer conditions taking hold, most teams are now approaching in trail shoes and transitioning to single mountaineering boots above treeline.

Our teams have noted that mosquitoes are starting to return in some regions, particularly in forested or low-elevation zones below 5,000 feet—bug spray is strongly recommended for those spending time around camp or on approach. Whether you’re new to mountaineering or coming back for another summit, we’re looking forward to seeing you out in the mountains this season.

Hello climbers,

We’re excited to report stellar conditions throughout the region as we kick off July. From Mount Baker to Rainier and deep into the North Cascades, our teams have experienced consistent summit success and excellent travel conditions. On Mount Rainier, May brought a 44% summit rate—well above average for that time of year—followed by a phenomenal June, with 13 of 15 teams reaching the summit. That’s a record-setting 85% success rate for the month! So far this season, over 100 climbers have summited Rainier—and we’re not even halfway through. Meanwhile, on Mount Baker, favorable weather and its lower elevation have contributed to a summit success rate of over 90%. A big kudos to our guide team for their dedication and support, and to our climbers for showing up dialed and ready to climb!

At this point in the season, all our Washington climbs (with the exception of Rainier) have transitioned to single leather mountaineering boots. With the seasonal snow melting rapidly and a warm forecast ahead, we expect the switch to occur on Rainier very soon.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

A huge thank you to our guide and operations staff for their hard work reestablishing high camp on the Muir route. The route is currently in excellent condition, with teams summiting daily. A single ladder has been installed at 12,800 feet, but otherwise the path to the summit remains unchanged. On the Emmons side, conditions are also favorable, and our current 8-day course is making a summit push now. The approach trail to Glacier Basin is snow-free, and the glacier remains in great shape. Despite warm daytime temperatures, we continue to recommend double boots for all Rainier climbs due to cold overnight temperatures and exposure on the upper mountain. Please follow the posted gear list, and give our gear department a call to learn the latest information on which boot you’ll need!

Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades

Our teams are getting busy! We rang in July with successful trips on Mount Adams, Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and throughout the North Cascades. Low-elevation trails are now largely snow-free, while mid- to high-elevation terrain above 5,000 feet continues to offer ample snow for travel and climbing. Glaciers across these objectives are in good condition. With the transition to summer conditions, most teams are utilizing trail shoes for the approach and single mountaineering boots for higher alpine travel.

Whether you’re just starting your climbing journey or aiming to add another summit to the list, we’re looking forward to seeing you out there this season!

Hello climbers,

Summer is officially in full swing in the Cascades, and conditions have remained stellar throughout the region. We’ve seen consistent summit success across Washington—from Mount Baker to Rainier and beyond—and guides are reporting some of the best early-season conditions in years. In Alaska, we still have one Denali team remaining on the mountain. You can follow their progress via our Denali Cybercast Page. All other teams have wrapped up successful expeditions, and we’re proud to share that our 2026 Denali expedition dates are now live on the website. It’s never too early to start planning!

Tahoma (Mount Rainier) Conditions

Our Rainier teams have been enjoying excellent climbing conditions, and across the three routes we guide teams are consistently reaching the summit. We’re excited to announce that over the past week we have re-established high camp at Ingraham Flats. Big thanks to our guide staff for putting in the hard work building high camp and getting it setup. This will allow for improved summit pushes basing out of the 11,200 high camp on the Muir Route.

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route: The route remains in great shape. Our Director and Field Manager made a trip to the Alpine Ascents Satellite Office on Rainier and over the past three days have performed route reconnaissance and work to establish and reinforce the route. Climbers are still using mountain boots from the parking lot at the vast majority of the trail is snowy to Muir. From Muir the route to the summit is well established and in good shape. The Cleaver itself is largely snow-free, and a well-defined bootpack continues to the summit. At this time there are no ladders in place on the route.
Emmons-Winthrop: Conditions are excellent, with smooth travel over the Inter Glacier and solid coverage above Camp Schurman. Our latest Emmons climb enjoyed a wonderful summit day just yesterday.
Kautz Route: Ice pitches are holding up beautifully, and the glacier sections remain direct and efficient. Our latest Kautz team summited the route 2 days ago, and guides were happy to report excellent conditions all the way up. This team was apart of a 10 day course with the final 4 days being on the Kautz climb after 6 days of training on Mt Baker.

Despite warm daytime temperatures, double boots are still recommended on all routes due to overnight cold and high-elevation exposure. Warmer temperatures are on the forecast, but winds on the upper mountain will continue to bring in the cold. We urge climbers to always be prepared with the proper equipment.

Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades

Mount Baker continues to shine. Both north and south route teams are seeing regular summit success, with firm morning snow, manageable crevasse exposure, and great coverage on the approach. Lower trail sections are now mostly snow-free below ~5,000feet, making for dry approaches and efficient travel. On the North Side, high camp now has flowing water access, a welcome development as summer continues.

Mount Adams also remains in great shape. Our summit climbs and ski descents have been enjoying all the mountain has to offer, including ski descents from the summit slopes—truly a memorable way to wrap up a climb.

Across the North Cascades, the transition from snow to rock season is well underway. Alpine rock objectives are opening up quickly, and approaches now often include both snow travel and trail hiking. One of our Washington Pass programs is a 4-day Alpine Rock course, perfect for Matterhorn training. We’re wishing our graduates luck on their next objectives!

As always, early starts, good route planning, and proper layering are key to safe and successful outings. Please don’t hesitate to contact our office if you’re preparing for an upcoming trip or want to talk conditions.

We look forward to seeing you in the mountains!