Mount Rainier / Cascades

Hello climbers,

It’s been warm over the past week, but that is all hopefully about to change. A weather system will push inland over the weekend, bringing cooler temperatures and additional chances of showers to the mountains. Cooler temperatures will then persist through the first half of next week, making ideal climbing conditions again. Even though there has been some lowland smoke blowing in, the mountains have stayed generally clear so far.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)

The standard climbing routes on Mount Rainier are showing classic late-July transitions, with snow melting rapidly on some aspects. However, routes remain in remarkably good condition. On the Disappointment Cleaver route things are still in stellar shape: after clearing the cleaver, expect a well worn climbing path and mellower terrain from the Emmons Shoulder all the way up to Columbia Crest. On the Emmons, climbing remains highly direct and in good condition. Teams are moving efficiently through the Corridor before traversing over toward the Winthrop Shoulder on the way to summit. Finally, the Kautz is holding in great condition for late July. There is good coverage on the approach to the Wilson Bench and the ice pitches are finally starting to steepen up a bit. This week’s 10-day course reported stellar conditions!

Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)

It’s been warm the last few days on Baker but not much has changed when it comes to the route. A few more crevasses have opened up on the Easton Glacier, and teams are having no problems redirecting the route as needed to the summit. The north side routes are still climbable with no significant changes over the last week as well. Finally, the road is still washed out adding a couple hours to the approach to all the North Side routes.

Across the Cascades

Even though it was warm, climbers still got out and had perfect mid-summer climbing conditions throughout the rest of the Cascades. A team reported back that the Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan was climbing straightforward and found things haven’t melted out yet in the steeper snow portions of the climb. Glacier peak was relatively snow free almost all the way to White Chuck Camp. Guides commented that the track to the summit is the most direct and well-established trail they had ever seen. The glacier is in good shape still and there was just a bit of snow left on the summit ridge. Lastly, we had group climbing peaks all around the Eldorado zone. The approach trail is still kind of rough, but once up high they enjoyed stellar alpine climbing in one of the prettiest zones in the entire Cascades.

See you in the mountains!

Hello climbers,

We enjoyed a great week in the mountains and weather continues to be stable throughout the Pacific Northwest moving forward. Freezing levels will float around seasonal norms for the upcoming week. Combined with forecasted sunny skies and low to moderate winds, everything should shape up for another stellar week of climbing all across the Cascades.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
The Muir route up Mt. Rainier is still in great shape and is holding up well. Recent teams installed a ladder on the route slightly above Ingraham Flats. The route continues to climb the Disappointment Cleaver and then traverses over to the Emmons Shoulder. The cleaver is currently about 50/50 rock and snow and continues to melt out fast. Mellower terrain and straightforward travel exists from the Emmons Shoulder all the way to Columbia Crest. The Kautz route is also still holding up well. Guides have remarked that the ice pitches are in great shape and feeling like they are climbing slightly lower angle than usual for this time of year. Meanwhile, on the Emmons, climbing is still very direct and in good shape. The route is heading through the Corridor before traversing over to the Winthrop Shoulder.

Mt Baker (Koma Kulshan)
Not much has changed on Mount Baker’s Easton Route. The route jumps onto the glacier right outside of Sandy Camp and takes a direct line up to the Roman Wall. The Roman Wall is still in good shape, too, and hasn’t melted down to firmer conditions yet. Sandy Camp is now almost completely down to rock with only a bit snow still holding on. Chairs are now at camp to increase comfort and relaxation (we’ll call it summit climb preparation) while hanging out. The North Ridge continues to see ascents as well, with stellar conditions on the upper mountain. The approach to the ridge via the Coleman is starting to break up and expose move crevasses making it a slightly longer approach, but with no impact on the summit portion of the climb.

Across the Cascades
The theme continues throughout the rest of the Cascades with great summer climbing. The approach hike to the lower bivies on Shuksan’s Sulphide Glacier route is almost snow free and bivies are melted out so climbers can sleep on dry trail. A few crevasses are exposed on the Sulphide Glacier but the current route easily avoids them. The Shuksan Pyramid is now snow free and our teams are ascending the classic SE Ridge and descending via the gullies. Over on Mt Adams, snow is quickly disappearing from the lower mountain and dry camping and running water can be found at the Lunch Counter. Finally, climbers continued to find perfect mid-summer conditions on the classic North Ridge of Stuart. There was a little bit of snow left at the notch if planning to bivy and still a some snow to manage coming off of the false summit down Cascadian Couloir.

Photo from climber Brendan Bennett on our recent Olympus climb!

Hello climbers,

Summer mountaineering in the Cascades remains exceptional. Mild temperatures, clear skies, and light winds look like they continue to be the trend throughout the mountains.  Overnight freezing levels remain low enough to preserve glacier integrity and maintain excellent route conditions across the range. Given the high atmospheric stability and ideal temperatures, this stands out as one of the most favorable alpine windows of the summer.

Mt Rainier (Tahoma)
All three routes over the last week have remained in fantastic climbing shape.  A slight reroute to the Muir route for a our 3 day program was put in last week.  This reroute traverses from the top of the cleaver out to the Emmons shoulder.  Guides have remarked that the new variation is making the climb slightly less steep and has some areas with running protection.  The Kautz is starting to offer a bit more ice climbing on the steeper pitches as more of the snow melts away from winter.  And finally, the Emmons route is continuing to see more traffic approaching mid season and is cruising up and well developed climbing path for the time being.

Mt Baker (Koma Kulshan)
Conditions on Mount Baker are holding steady this week. The Easton Glacier remains a direct climb, but keep your eyes open as crevasses are opening up and becoming more pronounced as the summer heat does its work. Route finding is still highly intuitive, and teams are making excellent time up the glacier.  No major updates from the North Side, as the Coleman-Deming and the North Ridge are still climbing well!

Across the Cascades
Great weather and climbing conditions continue to be the trend throughout the rest of the Cascades.  Recently, guides have been up Adams, Glacier, and Olympus and found prime summer route conditions.  Trips to North Cascades National Park in Boston Basin found the lower bivies melted out but noted that trails tended to be a little more overgrown than normal.  And the extra hiking is now over as Cascade River Road is currently open all the way to Cascade Pass Trailhead. Finally, the North Ridge of Stuart is in for summer.  A few guided groups ascended the classic route last week raving about dry granite and quickly melting snow on the approach and descent.

See you in the mountains!

Greetings climbers,