Here we go!
We’ve begun the summer season and our teams are already in the field. Our first Mount Rainier climb reached the summit on April 28, and our first mountaineering course on Mount Baker also successfully summited yesterday. It’s a strong start to the season.
While there has been considerable discussion around a low snow year across the western U.S.—something we certainly observed this winter—our guides are reporting that the upper mountains of Rainier and Baker currently have adequate coverage for this time of year. It remains to be seen how below-average snowfall will impact the season overall, but at present, climbing conditions across the Cascades are favorable.
A stretch of high pressure has brought stable weather and abundant sunshine, contributing to excellent early-season conditions. That said, temperatures remain cold on the upper mountain. Guides report that climbers were wearing full layers during the final hour of the summit push on Rainier, with conditions described as “cold and wintery.”
Looking ahead, the forecast calls for continued sunshine and clear skies through the weekend.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Our guide team spent time earlier this week establishing a climbing route via the Ingraham Direct to the summit. Snow coverage begins at Paradise, and with current cold temperatures, climbers are using double mountaineering boots from the parking lot. Expect continuous snow travel from Paradise to Camp Muir. Above Camp Muir, the route travels over Cathedral Gap, where conditions are firm in sections. From Ingraham Flats, the route ascends the left side of the Ingraham Glacier, traversing toward Gib Rock and Camp Comfort at approximately 12,900 feet. From Camp Comfort, guides report a straightforward route to the crater rim. Recent summit teams described the upper mountain as “cold and wintery,” reinforcing the importance of proper layering and cold-weather preparation. Access to the White River side (Emmons Glacier) remains seasonally closed. The National Park Service currently estimates an opening around Memorial Day weekend. For updates, please refer to National Park Service road status page.
North Cascades
In the North Cascades, we’ve had several mountaineering courses operating on Mount Baker, and our guide teams have been actively exploring the region in recent weeks. Guides report excellent climbing conditions on the Easton Glacier. The road is currently accessible to within approximately one mile of the trailhead. On the north side of Mount Baker, road access is currently closed around mile marker 3.5 due to a winter flood event. Climbers are accessing this area by walking the remaining four miles of road. Within North Cascades National Park, guides are reporting the seasonal snowline to be around 4,500–5,000 feet.
We look forward to joining you on a rope team or seeing you on the mountain!
Happy Climbing!
