Mount Rainier / Cascades

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

The Cascades climbing season is in full swing!  This is our favorite time of year as we have climbers exploring all over the Pacific Northwest.  In addition to our climbs in Cascades we also have several expeditions already deep in the Alaska range making moves up Denali. Internationally, our Everest expedition led by Ben Jones is currently at Camp 3 on their summit rotation and should be summiting in just a few days.  You can follow our Everest expedition updates here.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Mount Rainier has picked up several feet of snow over the past week above 10,000ft. The recent heavy snowfall paused teams from reaching the summit due to the inclement weather and increase in avalanche hazard.  Now looking ahead, the forecast is calling for a wonderful sunny Memorial Day Weekend and we anticipate our guided teams climbing on the upper mountain and reaching the summit. Mount Rainier National Park will be opening access to the White River side of the park this weekend which allows climbing access to the popular Emmons glacier route. Our first Emmons glacier team heads out on Sunday morning for a four day climb.

North Cascades and Beyond

The storm also produced heavy snowfall in the North Cascades with several feet of snow falling above 6,000ft. Our teams on Mount Baker reported good climbing and skiing conditions both on the Easton and Squawk glaciers. Guides said it is good to start at the trailhead with boots as the trail is muddy down low with a transition to snow within 90 minutes. Access to the north side of Mount Baker will continue to be a longer approach this season as the Forest Service does not anticipate repairing the washed out bridge before the fall season. In other parts of the state teams reported phenomenal conditions on Mount Adams and Glacier Peak with good seasonal snow coverage and excellent climbing conditions.

Have a great weekend and see you in the mountains!

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

The Cascades climbing season is now fully underway, and overall climbing conditions across Washington remain quite good for mid-May. Over the past two weeks, our teams have been active on Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, and throughout the Cascades, with guides reporting generally favorable travel conditions, strong route coverage on the upper mountains, and several successful summits.  The major theme unfolding this season continues to be the below-average snowpack across much of the Pacific Northwest. While conditions on the upper elevations of Rainier and Baker remain solid for this time of year, the lower mountain is melting out quickly due to the unusually warm and dry spring pattern we’ve experienced over the past month. Looking ahead, the current forecast calls for a transition away from the extended high-pressure pattern we’ve enjoyed recently. A more active and seasonable weather pattern is expected to return later this week, bringing cooler temperatures along with periods of precipitation and new snow at higher elevations on the volcanoes and throughout the Cascades.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

On Mount Rainier, climbers can now expect mostly snow-covered travel beginning near Paradise, with the trail to Pebble Creek rapidly emerging in places. The Muir Snowfield remains in very good shape with a well-established bootpack to Camp Muir. Above approximately 8,000 feet, snow coverage remains solid for this point in the season, though guides are already noting melt patterns and exposed terrain features appearing earlier than normal below that elevation. Guides on Rainier continue to report cold temperatures and firm conditions during the early morning hours, and a transition to soft snow travel later in the day with warm daytime temperatures. Climbers should be prepared for rapidly changing surface conditions and increasingly soft snow on descents as daytime heating continues.

North Cascades

In the North Cascades, climbers should continue to expect snowline around 5,000 feet depending on aspect and terrain. While many alpine objectives still remain firmly in spring conditions, the warm temperatures have accelerated melt-freeze cycles and route transitions are beginning earlier than what we would typically expect in mid-May. For climbers heading into the mountains over the next couple of weeks, now is the time to be diligent with equipment preparation and layering systems. Despite the warm temperatures in Seattle and low elevations, conditions in the alpine remain very much winter-like, especially during overnight and summit pushes. Goggles, warm gloves, hard shells, and proper cold-weather systems remain essential equipment on all glaciated climbs.

As always, our guides will continue monitoring conditions closely and providing updates from the field as the season progresses.

We look forward to seeing many of you in the mountains soon.

Rainer is in Full Swing!

This past week has been a gorgeous one here in the PNW with ample sunny skies across the region. Our guides have been calling in great conditions from all around the state, with lots of people climbing and skiing off the tops of the peak in the Cascades.  As a reminder, if you’re looking for the best weather forecast for Mount Rainier National Park we recommend the UW Rainier Recreational Forecast which is updated twice daily typically around 4am and 4pm.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
With the above average seasonal temperatures the lower part of Mount Rainier (below Camp Muir) is melting out quickly. We are still using double boots at this time because of the soft snow (no snowshoes needed).  As of yesterday climbers can expect the trail to Pebble Creek to be 90% snow covered and we are now using the official summer trail which is wanded and marked. The Muir snowfield is in excellent condition with a well established boot pack up to Camp Muir. Above Muir the route is in great shape and so far this season we have had 4 out of 5 teams reach the summit.  The route is direct going up the Ingraham glacier with the increased warming we do anticipate adjuncts being put into place (planks/ladders) across a few crevasses.  Access to the White River side (Emmons Glacier) remains seasonally closed. The National Park Service currently estimates an opening around Memorial Day weekend. For updates, please refer to National Park Service road status page.

North Cascades
In the North Cascades, not much has changed since our last report and the snowline is still between 4,500-5,000 in NCNP.  On Baker the snowline is a bit lower.  Highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) remains closed due to damage and at this time the Department of Transportation does not have an estimate opening.

We look forward to joining you on a rope team or seeing you on the mountain!

Happy Climbing!

Here we go!

We’ve begun the summer season and our teams are already in the field. Our first Mount Rainier climb reached the summit on April 28, and our first mountaineering course on Mount Baker also successfully summited yesterday. It’s a strong start to the season.

While there has been considerable discussion around a low snow year across the western U.S.—something we certainly observed this winter—our guides are reporting that the upper mountains of Rainier and Baker currently have adequate coverage for this time of year. It remains to be seen how below-average snowfall will impact the season overall, but at present, climbing conditions across the Cascades are favorable.

A stretch of high pressure has brought stable weather and abundant sunshine, contributing to excellent early-season conditions. That said, temperatures remain cold on the upper mountain. Guides report that climbers were wearing full layers during the final hour of the summit push on Rainier, with conditions described as “cold and wintery.”

Looking ahead, the forecast calls for continued sunshine and clear skies through the weekend.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Our guide team spent time earlier this week establishing a climbing route via the Ingraham Direct to the summit. Snow coverage begins at Paradise, and with current cold temperatures, climbers are using double mountaineering boots from the parking lot. Expect continuous snow travel from Paradise to Camp Muir.  Above Camp Muir, the route travels over Cathedral Gap, where conditions are firm in sections. From Ingraham Flats, the route ascends the left side of the Ingraham Glacier, traversing toward Gib Rock and Camp Comfort at approximately 12,900 feet. From Camp Comfort, guides report a straightforward route to the crater rim.  Recent summit teams described the upper mountain as “cold and wintery,” reinforcing the importance of proper layering and cold-weather preparation.  Access to the White River side (Emmons Glacier) remains seasonally closed. The National Park Service currently estimates an opening around Memorial Day weekend. For updates, please refer to National Park Service road status page.

North Cascades
In the North Cascades, we’ve had several mountaineering courses operating on Mount Baker, and our guide teams have been actively exploring the region in recent weeks.  Guides report excellent climbing conditions on the Easton Glacier. The road is currently accessible to within approximately one mile of the trailhead.  On the north side of Mount Baker, road access is currently closed around mile marker 3.5 due to a winter flood event. Climbers are accessing this area by walking the remaining four miles of road.  Within North Cascades National Park, guides are reporting the seasonal snowline to be around 4,500–5,000 feet.

We look forward to joining you on a rope team or seeing you on the mountain!

Happy Climbing!

Greetings Fellow Climbers,

After a stretch of hot and dry weather across the Cascades, the past week has continued to bring rapid seasonal changes to the glaciers. A few days of rain and cooler temperatures have offered a temporary reprieve, but climbers should be prepared for late-summer conditions across all routes. Looking ahead, high pressure and sunshine are forecasted to return for the final weeks of the season.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our last team on Rainier wrapped up their climb on September 4th, officially concluding the 2025 season. In the days that followed, our staff removed the ladders from the upper mountain and secured gear for the winter. It’s always a bittersweet milestone, but we’re grateful to close out the year with another safe and successful season on Rainier. Looking ahead, our 2026 Rainier dates are now live on our website, and we encourage climbers to reserve early as these trips consistently fill quickly.

North Cascades & Kulshan (Mount Baker)

Mount Baker continues to offer excellent climbing conditions, with all of our teams reaching the summit over the past week—a 100% team success rate. A few climbs remain this season on Baker, Shuksan, and throughout the North Cascades, and our guides are excited to finish strong with these final expeditions. Stable weather and good route conditions have made this one of our most successful Cascade seasons to date, with some of the highest climber success rates we’ve ever seen. We’re grateful to all of our climbers and guides for making 2025 such a rewarding season in the Pacific Northwest.

We hope to see you in the mountains!