Lyra Pierotti

    Lyra Pierotti

    Guide: Washington, Alaska

    Lyra started her career as a mountain guide in California’s Sierra Nevada, guiding numerous peaks and rock climbs from Yosemite Valley to the High Sierra, before venturing into the complex and beautiful North Cascades. Various adventures, both for work and play, have taken her climbing in the French Alps, South America, Mexico, Baja, and all over the western states, as well as trekking in the Dolomites. Originally planning to be a research scientist, Lyra left academia for the school of rocks. Now, she also works part time as a freelance journalist focusing on science writing, balancing her passion for athleticism in the mountains with her lifelong fascination with the natural world.


    Take 5 with the Guide

    If you could only take one album on an expedition?
    The Melody At Night, With You – Keith Jarrett

    Most beloved book?
    Braiding Sweetgrass – Robin Wall Kimmerer

    If you could be stuck with anyone (past or present) at base camp for a week?
    Lynn Hill

    What was your first mountain?
    Some peak near Lake Tahoe from atop the shoulders of the Summer Music Festival’s tuba player…when I was still lighter than a tuba!

    One piece of advice for aspiring mountaineers?
    Find your community. Carefully cultivate your partnerships. At the end of a hard day, it is all about the team you’re with.

    Significant Ascents

    Denali: West Buttress (2 expeditions)
    Mount Elbrus, Russia (7 expeditions)
    Aconcagua: Polish Traverse, Argentina
    Pico de Orizaba, Mexico
    Mount Rainier: Kautz Glacier climb, Fuhrer Finger ski descent, numerous DC and Emmons climbs
    Mount Baker: North Ridge, Coleman-Deming, Easton
    Mount Shuksan: North Face, Fisher Chimneys
    Forbidden Peak: West Ridge
    Cascade volcanoes: Adams, Glacier, Shasta
    Clean Break on Juno Tower, Washington Pass
    Moonlight Buttress, Zion National Park
    Mount Whitney: Mountaineer’s Route and East Face
    Mount Conness: SW Face/Harding Route
    Levitation 29 in Red Rock, Nevada
    Middle Teton, Grand Teton National Park
    US Antarctic Program: SAR & field science support (collecting gas samples by rappelling into the ice caves on Mt. Erebus, the southernmost active volcano)


    Wilderness First Responder/CPR
    AIARE Pro 2 Certified
    AIARE Course Leader
    Leave No Trace Trainer
    AMGA Rock Guide
    AMGA Advanced Alpine Guide Course
    AMGA Ski Guide Course
    NSCA Certified Strength & Conditioning Specialist


    Awards & Recognition

    Julie Cheney Culberson Educational Fund Scholarship recipient
    Review Editor for OutdoorGearLab


    • Dear Alpine Ascents: Mountaineering Courses

      Hey Alpine, I’m resolved. 2022 is the year I learn the ropes (pun intended) of mountaineering. You have a lot of offerings on your site and I’m not sure which one is right for me. Can you give me the CliffsNotes explanation of the difference between them all? There’s a 6-Day, 8-Day, 9-Day, 10-Day, 13-Day, […]

    • Extreme Self-Care: Expedition Style

      by Aili Farquhar  As you toil against the steepness of the hill, the backpack hipbelt secured to your sled digs into your harness.  All the sweat accumulated and dried in your hair during your sunny journey across the lower glacier begins to itch as a fresh new layer accumulates under your sunscreen-rimmed hat.  After setting […]

    • Guide Trip Report: Denali Traverse

      by Sam Hennessey Climbing in the Alaska Range in late spring sometimes feels like stepping into another world. The endless daylight, and the sheer contrast of Denali towering over the rest of the state gives it an atmosphere like no other. For the last decade, Michael Gardner and I have stared down from the upper […]

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